Pressureangle

When my LM1000 came to me it had the 16" front wheel and was shod with Metzelers (15 years ago, and the tires weren't new) The front end felt totally untrustworthy. After reading a lot of anecdotes, I swapped on a 18" LM3 wheel, with new Metzelers. The front then was extremely stable, but heavy and slow. I ran through 3 sets of tires subsequently, Metzeler x2 and most liked Michelin Pilots. But where it all went right, was while restoring it I put the 16" front back on, added longer rear shocks, dropped the forks in the trees 1/2" and it turned magical wearing Pirelli Road Demons. The Mille GT is wearing some Shinkos, or other no-name tires; they're old, a bit scary looking but not worn. They are very neutral handlers on that bike, with only the slightest tip-in in turns. I do recall on the LM that when the rear center wore, it tended to drift on fast straight roads (which are all I have at home) I always tend to 'sticky' tires, because I imagine I'll go ride some nice roads far more than I actually have opportunity. I think the Tonti is less affected by the profile than the geometry- 'feeling the difference' is not the same big change as setting the geometry correctly. But you *can* feel the difference, where I really never noticed on the Asian bikes I had. The Sport-i is far more sensitive to tire profile than the Tonti, which is a function of tire width probably. FWIW, the Mille GT will get Michelin Pilots if they're still available when the time comes. *the above statements are not paid endorsements, nor are the opinions expressed valid beyond the skull of the author*

While that's probably true, it can't happen without changing the profile at the same time. The definitive answer will never be known because you can't buy identical tires ten years apart; and if you could, I defy anyone to tell the difference while street riding.

I've dealt with MG Cycle since '06, and never had any complaints. That said, All I ask of parts sources is that they send me the correct parts- and in that regard, MGC stands at the top of the hill, in MG specifically and a world apart from the dismal world of classic cars, trailers, and pedestrian transportation. I run a business too (trying to, anyway) and since the COVID ****, it's been infinitely more difficult. I assume MGC is no different, and I thank them for being there.

I had my rims powdercoated, and the hole plugs are...deteriorated. Has anyone found something that works? I'm a little stunned that I can't just jump on Amazon and find something at least close.

My 2010 Chevy HHR gets ~31mpg highway with the tires inflated to 44psi. It doesn't change any, until you get down to about 35- then the mileage slips down to 28-29. It's possible that this is also an artifact of weather, since the only times my tires have been so low on pressure is in cold weather which is rare for me. For both cars and bikes, I tend to the pressure that gives the greatest mileage rather than road feel. I've never had a street bike (that is, never ridden one so hard) on which the pressure had any effect on traction. Anecdotally, Metzeler gave a few of us 'cheater' tires at Daytona '96, after proving that Dunlop was using F1 compounds in DOT molds for their contracted riders. On a 65hp, 450lb H-D 883, there was no physical way to slip those tires; the engineers had us all the way down to 17psi to get them up to the rubber temps they wanted. Simply amazing. And probably not as good as the store-bought tires we all use today.

Until you reach the margin of adhesion, the age of a tire doesn't make a difference in handling. But I've found that Italian bikes- 2 Tontis, the Sport-i, and a '74 Aermacchi 350- are all exquisitely sensitive to tire profiles. I ran 30psi in the front Bridgestone T30 because it had a nebulous, imprecise feel in hard cornering and I wanted more rubber on the road to maximize traction. (it never slipped even once in it's life) The Pirellis I replaced them with had much sharper cornering, but felt drifty on fast straight bits where the Bridgestones were boxcar-stable. I did notice with the Pirellis at the Spine Raid (Tail of the Dragon) that higher pressure, 38psi made fast corner dumping and transitions easier and didn't affect traction at any speed I ride. Also, any new tire has a perfect profile so replacing a tire with any visible wear will make handling changes you can feel. There is some ethereal feel to brand new rubber that defies description, something you sense but can't isolate. Maybe just in the head.

Right, I forget I have the barhopping/10 laps tank. Sexy tho, ain't it? FWIW, I keep about 30psi front/ 32 rear, my bridgestones lasted 7500 miles and gas mileage was average. I don't think it matters much, or at all, with radial tires. I'll explore these Dunlops more deeply once I get somewhere with a curve.

Right on the money. Best I saw on my 10k was ~40, riding 55-65mph. Worst was crossing New Mexico at 85mph, ~30. My fuel light comes on right at about 100 miles with 60 to go. Barely less than half. Annoying and easy to forget after a while.

I've had mine off twice, once when purchased and once to install my Roper Plate. Neither time I saw anything of note, and I'll not take it off ever again without specific reason. The threads are a particular concern, and the Roper Plate causes you to lose 1/4 of the threads you had so care is warranted. Any engine block I have upside down will get all the pan holes Timeserted.

My (limited) experience with paint is that if you use Rust-Oleum primer, use R-O topcoat. Many times over the years I couldn't figure how my topcoat fisheyed or peeled, until someone told me that RO use fish oil or something for their rust preventative, and other paint doesn't like it. I would use a urethane if they have it, given the ding factor of road dirt. My first rule for painting (and I do hate painting) is to let the part warm in the sun, even to the point of being uncomfortable to hold. That outgasses the pores in the part of water and oils, evaporates the carrier more quickly, allows for the cooling action of the evaporation to pull the paint back into the pores and give you great adhesion. Also you can apply a heavier coat, and second coat, much more quickly without runs. And if you like wrinkle, a hot part is the whole answer (a H-D trade secret lol)

I put my rear wheel up on the Pit Bull stand, pull the spark plugs and rotate the wheel with a finger on the hole; when it comes to compression, you can get close to TDC by finger. Then I use a round-bodied flat blade screwdriver to turn the flywheel tooth at a time to find the marks. 6 speed has the same flywheel hole as a 5 speed, yes?

Well, Waddington was a Proper Englishman and he says 'fix it if it's a demonstrable improvement' so get to work.

"...The solution proposed by Waddington’s team...was to increase the time interval between scheduled maintenance cycles, and to eliminate all preventive maintenance tasks that couldn’t be demonstrably proven to be beneficial." Check

How 'bout dem geers, doe?

Upon close inspection (you shouldn't see my workspace) it's the driveshaft yoke sliding on the output shaft. It's not 'loose' but it slides with a plug fit. I'm sure this is why they put a spring on the slip splines. Still, I have this box to assemble and might install it anyway just to get inside the straight-cut one.

like wot? The output shaft end play? I hope not! Or do I hope so?

Downloaded them from the Panopticon, uploaded them to imgbb and inserted image from URL via the 'other media' radio button. More work than I'd like.

Had a 'collectible car' dealer here, still not in prison but probably on the way. He was taking cars on consignment, under contract; then selling the cars and keeping the money. He walked with millions, left owners with no car and no money, left buyers with fraudulent sales and no money. Still getting sorted and nothing but sad stories left behind. He was such a shyster he asked if I'd rewind a generator for $50. I told him I wouldn't pick it up off the bench for $50, and that was the last time I went in there. Oh wait, he got 36 years lol. I imagine a lot of insurance and bond companies are still unhappy though. https://www.tcpalm.com/story/news/crime/martin-county/2019/02/25/craig-danzig-blue-marlin-motors-sentenced-grand-theft-racketeering-fraud/2956689002/

K, fixed the problematic Panopticon photo failure and deleted the posts. For your viewing pleasure. I wasn't going to inspect the rear gears, but the little voice said 'Dooo Eeeeet'. So I do it.I've looked as closely as possible through the fill hole in the past, and didn't really like the surface finish I saw on the ring gear. No idea what was in it when I got it, probably the factory lube. I've always run RedLine shockproof in this one, and surprisingly I think the surface finish is better now than it was before. For this reassembly, I'll be using Liqui-Moly because I can't get Chevron Delo ESI. L-M also has borate additives, so should be as good. Ah yes, we'll be having the transmission out as well, due to enormous end play in the output shaft. I have a helical gearbox on the bench nearly ready I meant to swap in a long time ago, I guess I know my next move.

I have never figured out why my posted pics are like quantum fluctuations.

I'd have the Ducati Scrambler, just because I had a Jupiter 450 waaay back in a previous lifetime.

We've had two different targets here. What I meant was, it's best to make things robust so that you may ride as long as possible without failure, rather than to leave something less than optimized for a convenience in maintenance later. Because I'm not always timely with 'heavy maintenance'.

I have the EME upgrade on the '85 LM1000 with big Odyssey battery. a few thousand miles later it's still in heaven. If I had your connector issue, I'd eliminate the connector altogether and properly splice the wires together. It's wiser to plan for the ride than plan for maintenance. Cutting and resplicing shouldn't be frightening. So I'll toss this in the ring, my '97 Sport charges 12.8 at idle and 13.8 max. Always been this way, doesn't have battery issues...regulator has been reinforced with grounds and hots. I shouldn't care after all this time, but is this the norm?

I found this one, been happy with it for 16k miles and 4 years. Might even be the same one MG Cycle sells. https://www.highflowfuel.com/quantum-moto-guzzi-1100-sport-inj-bj-efi-fuel-pump-1996-1999-replaces-gu29107261-gu03107270/

The picture I posted is not mine, but is identical to my '97 Sport. The rod assembly is in the mail...