Pressureangle

Apparently (only apparently so far) they are the same part, but installed in reverse on the Sport and the V11. I won't try to guess what the Italian engineers did with the threads in any case, I've been suckered and lost every bet so far.

Are you making an inquiry, or asserting an opinion?

There are specific criteria and design to threads with intentional interference. I'm not familiar with all of them, but with a cast plastic part it's simple enough to alter half of them, or any portion. If I was an engineer (prone to over-thinking lol) I'd make the portion under the fingerknob regular to facilitate starting threads during assembly, and make those inside the snout to interference spec. <shrug> Whatever we end up with, it will be mechanically machined so we'll have to discover the properties; I suspect a standard tap through delrin will leave an interference, given plastic always springs back a little when machined. Alternatively, we can machine the snout with a little reverse taper, tap it first and when the tabs are brought parallel in the hole the threads will tighten up. Today's mission is to get my rod assembly off and shipped north to the shop.

My son has a couple high quality 3d printers he's playing with, but hasn't developed the knowledge to reproduce a part from a sample.

We regularly machine a number of different plastics, most of them custom high-density mixes. Some probably not compatible, for instance mixed with a Moly-based lubrifier. But we have straight delrin also. We'll get with the supplier rep to ask about specific properties required, and make the final choice with some advice and testing.

Well yes it is, because delrin wouldn't have broken by now.

There was a request on WG for one like mine; I don't know if yours is the same, but it's a very simple part for us to make. If I can get a sample of your style, I'll throw them in the ring if it's a part that breaks much. My own is fine, I'll use it for the pattern.

I'm going to make some. May check out a couple types of plastic, as well as aluminum.

I left the second tensioner bolt out. I figure it gives a bit of oil mist to the gears, and one less thing I could worry about having left unsecured.

Seems like mebby I saw this with mine... The hole in my memory says maybe they're timed on the other cylinder. Don't trust anything in my memory hole. In any case, just line them up and trust it's right.

Been there, done that. I don't have much to say anymore, MG forums are the least agreeable of any I inhabit. Which is odd since it's so opposite my real-life experience.

I wore 5:11 60/40 for 3 years in Iraq and Afghanistan. Though in hot weather I wore the lighter weight 100% poly, I wore the 60/40 any time the temp was below about 80*F. They're tough as nails, very comfortable (after a couple wear/wash cycles) and look nice. BUT they are *not* crashwear. Polyester gets hot when abraded, and will melt and stick to your skin in a slide. So yeah, durability while riding is good, and temperature control is good, but I don't want to crash in them. I'd rather have a set of traditional Wrangler or Levi denims. All that said, I've been looking for a couple years for and at riding pants, and still haven't bought anything. I ride in jeans or Aerostitch. If I lived in a cooler climate, I'd consider armored leather. Meh.

Never heard of them, but they've been around a while- https://www.dimsport.it/en/ Add-on tuning always gets the side-eye from me.

Not mine, just happened across it while surfing. Someone recently asked about dampers so... https://claz.org/go?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.2040-parts.com%2Fbitubo-moto-guzzi-steering-damper-i383647%2F

The correct answer here is that the washer behind the bearing race has room to push the race out enough to catch the inside edge with a driver, and carefully drive it out from the inside. Use a soft punch or brass drift to move the (hopefully hardened) washer towards the outside, then move the washer aside to have just enough race to catch with a drift, which needs a good edge. Easy peasy. A proper blind puller on a slide hammer would make short work of it. Wish I'd known before I added some dimples to the outside race edge of the housing.

Yeah, still wondering what it'll take to wreck it apart. Considering the inside cover's adherence to the housing, prolly do that.

It's the dreaded 'outer rear drive needle bearing' day (s) Seems the only way to get the old one out is disassemble the drive? Then there's the bit about someone in the past using quite a bit more black RTV than necessary.

The Bitubo on my '97 Sport came to me mostly empty and weepy. I opened it, drained it, rinsed it out with fork oil and filled with 10 weight fork oil, carefully stroking it and then overfilling and capping it sloppily to be sure no air remained in it. 15,000 miles later- 38k or so total- it performs flawlessly, with no sticky or neutral spots, nor surprisingly any leaks. Unexpected but I'll take it.

I think I need that also, but haven't the drive out. Found a crunchy rear wheel bearing, so they'll be new...ever try to source non-counterfeit Timkens? I ended the day with Koyo, priced and claimed to come from Japan. Still that one lousy rear rotor bolt to destroy getting out.

Well that pretty much sells it. Depending on the price of the rebuild kits plus shipping against new, it doesn't seem likely- but I probably should have an ultrasonic cleaner anyway. I didn't find a black 16mm master cylinder, but I did see Greg Field say that 15mm worked fine. Prolly new there too, but I can't say that these didn't get their age and miles fairly. Not today's decision, fortunately.

Took the rear wheel off, to follow the front to the Powdercoater. Had a look at the brakes, the calipers are so dingy I can't stand it, and don't seem to want to come clean. Anybody got an easy answer? Next stop here is disassembly and hot TSP. If that doesn't work, I may just replace them with new rather than rebuild. Now that the rebuild door has been opened, who has parts? I think my master cylinder bypasses a little bit, inconsistent/lumpy action so I want to rebuild everything, or just replace it. My '97 has the black(ish) controls and gold calipers, and a cable clutch so it's not easy to switch the levers to something else. I'm tired and a little lazy, so I want someone to serve up answers on a platter. Heck, I couldn't even find confirmation that the master is 16mm, nor rebuild kits. I'd like to have it all in hand before tossing parts all over the bench.

Having absolutely no idea when the original factory gears were swapped for chain, I'd suggest that the oil level was raised to add lubrication to the chain that the gears didn't need. Consider, in 3 gears there are only 2 points of contact. In a chain, there are... a LOT. Both within the chain and upon the sprockets.

17" on both ends, on mine. Got the forks back today, got the bearings adjusted and the top clamp all set. Now all I gotta do is take the top clamp back off and put the handlebars on.

I think the Sport's rear rim is a little narrower than a V11's? I have 160 on the rear, not much room on the driveshaft side and no indication I've ever put the last 3/4" of rubber to the tarmac, so a larger tire is not considered.

The black is just not hitting me in the picture like it did in my mind. Nice, but now I'm thinking about back to gray, but shiny instead of dull. Meh