Pressureangle

I've had mine off twice, once when purchased and once to install my Roper Plate. Neither time I saw anything of note, and I'll not take it off ever again without specific reason. The threads are a particular concern, and the Roper Plate causes you to lose 1/4 of the threads you had so care is warranted. Any engine block I have upside down will get all the pan holes Timeserted.

My (limited) experience with paint is that if you use Rust-Oleum primer, use R-O topcoat. Many times over the years I couldn't figure how my topcoat fisheyed or peeled, until someone told me that RO use fish oil or something for their rust preventative, and other paint doesn't like it. I would use a urethane if they have it, given the ding factor of road dirt. My first rule for painting (and I do hate painting) is to let the part warm in the sun, even to the point of being uncomfortable to hold. That outgasses the pores in the part of water and oils, evaporates the carrier more quickly, allows for the cooling action of the evaporation to pull the paint back into the pores and give you great adhesion. Also you can apply a heavier coat, and second coat, much more quickly without runs. And if you like wrinkle, a hot part is the whole answer (a H-D trade secret lol)

I put my rear wheel up on the Pit Bull stand, pull the spark plugs and rotate the wheel with a finger on the hole; when it comes to compression, you can get close to TDC by finger. Then I use a round-bodied flat blade screwdriver to turn the flywheel tooth at a time to find the marks. 6 speed has the same flywheel hole as a 5 speed, yes?

Well, Waddington was a Proper Englishman and he says 'fix it if it's a demonstrable improvement' so get to work.

"...The solution proposed by Waddington’s team...was to increase the time interval between scheduled maintenance cycles, and to eliminate all preventive maintenance tasks that couldn’t be demonstrably proven to be beneficial." Check

How 'bout dem geers, doe?

Upon close inspection (you shouldn't see my workspace) it's the driveshaft yoke sliding on the output shaft. It's not 'loose' but it slides with a plug fit. I'm sure this is why they put a spring on the slip splines. Still, I have this box to assemble and might install it anyway just to get inside the straight-cut one.

like wot? The output shaft end play? I hope not! Or do I hope so?

Downloaded them from the Panopticon, uploaded them to imgbb and inserted image from URL via the 'other media' radio button. More work than I'd like.

Had a 'collectible car' dealer here, still not in prison but probably on the way. He was taking cars on consignment, under contract; then selling the cars and keeping the money. He walked with millions, left owners with no car and no money, left buyers with fraudulent sales and no money. Still getting sorted and nothing but sad stories left behind. He was such a shyster he asked if I'd rewind a generator for $50. I told him I wouldn't pick it up off the bench for $50, and that was the last time I went in there. Oh wait, he got 36 years lol. I imagine a lot of insurance and bond companies are still unhappy though. https://www.tcpalm.com/story/news/crime/martin-county/2019/02/25/craig-danzig-blue-marlin-motors-sentenced-grand-theft-racketeering-fraud/2956689002/

K, fixed the problematic Panopticon photo failure and deleted the posts. For your viewing pleasure. I wasn't going to inspect the rear gears, but the little voice said 'Dooo Eeeeet'. So I do it.I've looked as closely as possible through the fill hole in the past, and didn't really like the surface finish I saw on the ring gear. No idea what was in it when I got it, probably the factory lube. I've always run RedLine shockproof in this one, and surprisingly I think the surface finish is better now than it was before. For this reassembly, I'll be using Liqui-Moly because I can't get Chevron Delo ESI. L-M also has borate additives, so should be as good. Ah yes, we'll be having the transmission out as well, due to enormous end play in the output shaft. I have a helical gearbox on the bench nearly ready I meant to swap in a long time ago, I guess I know my next move.

I have never figured out why my posted pics are like quantum fluctuations.

I'd have the Ducati Scrambler, just because I had a Jupiter 450 waaay back in a previous lifetime.

We've had two different targets here. What I meant was, it's best to make things robust so that you may ride as long as possible without failure, rather than to leave something less than optimized for a convenience in maintenance later. Because I'm not always timely with 'heavy maintenance'.

I have the EME upgrade on the '85 LM1000 with big Odyssey battery. a few thousand miles later it's still in heaven. If I had your connector issue, I'd eliminate the connector altogether and properly splice the wires together. It's wiser to plan for the ride than plan for maintenance. Cutting and resplicing shouldn't be frightening. So I'll toss this in the ring, my '97 Sport charges 12.8 at idle and 13.8 max. Always been this way, doesn't have battery issues...regulator has been reinforced with grounds and hots. I shouldn't care after all this time, but is this the norm?

I found this one, been happy with it for 16k miles and 4 years. Might even be the same one MG Cycle sells. https://www.highflowfuel.com/quantum-moto-guzzi-1100-sport-inj-bj-efi-fuel-pump-1996-1999-replaces-gu29107261-gu03107270/

The picture I posted is not mine, but is identical to my '97 Sport. The rod assembly is in the mail...

Apparently (only apparently so far) they are the same part, but installed in reverse on the Sport and the V11. I won't try to guess what the Italian engineers did with the threads in any case, I've been suckered and lost every bet so far.

Are you making an inquiry, or asserting an opinion?

There are specific criteria and design to threads with intentional interference. I'm not familiar with all of them, but with a cast plastic part it's simple enough to alter half of them, or any portion. If I was an engineer (prone to over-thinking lol) I'd make the portion under the fingerknob regular to facilitate starting threads during assembly, and make those inside the snout to interference spec. <shrug> Whatever we end up with, it will be mechanically machined so we'll have to discover the properties; I suspect a standard tap through delrin will leave an interference, given plastic always springs back a little when machined. Alternatively, we can machine the snout with a little reverse taper, tap it first and when the tabs are brought parallel in the hole the threads will tighten up. Today's mission is to get my rod assembly off and shipped north to the shop.

My son has a couple high quality 3d printers he's playing with, but hasn't developed the knowledge to reproduce a part from a sample.

We regularly machine a number of different plastics, most of them custom high-density mixes. Some probably not compatible, for instance mixed with a Moly-based lubrifier. But we have straight delrin also. We'll get with the supplier rep to ask about specific properties required, and make the final choice with some advice and testing.

Well yes it is, because delrin wouldn't have broken by now.

There was a request on WG for one like mine; I don't know if yours is the same, but it's a very simple part for us to make. If I can get a sample of your style, I'll throw them in the ring if it's a part that breaks much. My own is fine, I'll use it for the pattern.

I'm going to make some. May check out a couple types of plastic, as well as aluminum.