Pressureangle

Here is the link to the entire album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k5dBSEpT7ieyBXFL7

I am, and I've used permission links for the pictures, as well as made the album they're in shareable.

Yeah, I have a real problem being forced into paying for something that used to be free, and still is elsewhere. What actually interests me is why some people can see the images and others can't.

Bring a trailer!

Dunno, but it's too much work to download and resize them for upload. Your imagination is sufficient and you'll see it at the Spine Raid.

How about now?

Where I'm from, it was my Dog and my Tools.

Today's mission is to replace all the fuel lines and filter. Even if they're clear of water, they're old enough to show checking. Check. Yesterday's project was to undo the deferred maintenance under the gas cap; the leaky gasket allowed the gas/ethanol/water to collect under the lid, eventually eating away enough paint to plug the drain and really cock things up. So I cut away all the paint that was loose, prepped the rusty bare metal with Ospho and coated everything in about 5 layers of Caswell's gas tank sealer I've had laying around for a few years waiting for the Norton project to come up. I disassembled the gas cap, hoping to replace the rubber gasket but you *know* it's not available separately, so I cleaned and prepped metal and rubber and applied Seal-All to all the surfaces except the tank contact ring. Hopefully that will prevent any future leaks and further attacks on paint and fuel quality. If not, It's $130 for a new tank door assembly- I didn't even bother to call and ask if that's available. Yeesh.

Just think of the diaphragm as a *really* simple computer that interfaces the carb and the unpracticed throttle hand.

If you get stuck hard, I can probably make one.

Today, we ride. Carefully, until we get home. Then we drain the fuel, change the filter and hoses, clear the tank top drain, and get a new cap gasket to keep the water out.

Mine were 670 UK pounds in February, shipping in. I'd expect that with materials skyrocketing, they'll be more today. E.

Ok, probably the last post here unless questions. I went for a short, 11 mile sub-50mph shakedown, all low throttle sub-4000rpms. First, I cannot overstate how much more cleanly this thing drives at low rpm and low throttle. The 'city manners' are incredibly improved. The idle is steady, stable, and never missed a single beat, even though it's 100rpm lower than I had it set previously. The 'driveline snatch' at slow speed/low throttle have *disappeared*. I have to attribute this to idle/low rpm spark timing being precise, which leads to the conclusion that the stock chain tensioner is not tight enough to control the cam/crank relationship at low rpms. Significantly, the whole reason I put these gears in was because I 'thought' I heard the cam chain slapping around, and didn't know whether the bike had a spring tensioner or manual and figured if I'm in there I may as well go all the way. Supporting that suspicion is that during today's ride I had the fairing on and everything final assembled, and the reflected engine noise from the front is *immensely* lower. There was enough noise with the chain to be a constant source of discontent; not only are the gears quiet, they are comparatively silent. I've leaned my idle mixture and yesterday's ride told me the plugs are way rich at the throttle settings I rode today, though I've yet to read the plugs with my changes it felt fine which means still plenty rich. I'll have to re-tune everything, certainly everything in the low RPM columns and the low throttle settings. We'll see. At the end of the day, Joe's gears are what should be in them from the factory...but Guzzi already knew that a long time ago, didn't they? Edit; I'll add here that I've always used the 'book value' valve lash settings; This time I've used the Guzziology values, Euro +.002" I think, .006" for intakes and .008" for exhaust. It's probably a contributor, but I would not expect that to make the huge difference I feel.

...something I should have done the first time I used the kickstand; Cut the dang post off the ridiculous self-retractor.

Ah hain't skeert.

So I went around the block yesterday. Felt good, road damp. Blew the front seal out of the case. WTF... I only replaced it because the old one appeared to be original but it wasn't leaking... I'll toss this in the bin of 'Chinese Crap'. Anyway, I'd ordered a replacement seal for shelf that came today so we'll give it another shot. I haven't put the stix on it to balance the intakes yet, but I did start an experiment in tuning- since I had to reduce idle speed, I adjusted air screws, idle fuel and spark timing to minimize exhaust temps at ~1100rpm. Original values were 6.25* timing, 2860 injector. Timing proved perfect, I ended up leaning the injectors to 2760. Not big changes. I closed the air screws about 3/4 turn each, they are within a quarter turn of each other off their seats between 1/4-1/2 turns out. Exhaust pipe temp is 742* + or - 10* on the top of the pipe- interestingly, the top is +200* from the bottom at the head. I'll get the carb stix out soon and see where it landed. In other news, I was able to get the thing tuned to take big handfuls of throttle smoothly from idle, something I was never able to do before. It's so much crisper than before I wish I'd degreed the cam with the old chain and after the gears to see if it's advanced. The chain had about 35k miles on it. Here's your clip of the day. Idle blips

Ok, up and running. I of course adjusted the valves, the exhausts were very tight cold, which explains why it had been a little snotty to start and warm up. My bad, it's probably been 7k miles since last adjustment. Valves aside, the thing started better than ever, it seems, and even 1/2 warm it idles at 1250rpm or so, up from ~1k-ish. Somebody elsewhere said that was their experience too, so there be a rebalancing coming soon. The gears are not as loud as some were hoping, they're pretty hard to discern above the valve clatter. Overall it hits me as far more happy and stable than with the chain (and tight valves). Here's your movie short. Joe's Gears

The tip is not critical to function, to a point. https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/369212/inductive-sensor-how-does-it-work

I have a '97, just went to look at my sticker but realized it got went away when the swingarm got painted. I'd have peeled it and sent it to you. Perhaps there's another owner who will never need it who'd like a cleaner look on their arm.

Thanks. Now this is turning into a sensor thread. The failed sensor I bought the bike with was swelled badly enough that it was hard to remove. I wonder if that's something that could push the sensor tip nearer the trigger, without actually failing the sensor.

2 things here- First, it's been that way for ~15k miles and there's no evidence of contact. Second, my measurement is imperfect. I used a feeler gauge, and the tip of the sensor is not perfectly flat so the 'sensor' part is slightly retracted from the edges. Also, I didn't have the gear on so there's some possibility that the trigger was not in perfect alignment as it is tightened. I *think* I checked it when I replaced the sensor when I first got the bike by the normal 'remove the spacer and test' method, but I don't recall distinctly. I'm quite familiar with trigger and wheel inductive sensors; the spec for all of them is usually .025" plus or minus .005". The signal strength decreases by the square of the distance, so closer is better; the clearance is not for signal but rather for imprecision in tolerance such as out of round or crank flex, or in the case of wheel speed sensors, debris collection. So yes there would be a concern if it was a new install, but proof's in the pudding and I'd worry more about causing some running change than suddenly contacting the trigger. But now you've made me overthink it. Who sells shims?

Have you called Walt and asked him to reschedule the other group?

Rather than start a new thread, I'll just append to this one. I've installed my Caruso gears, I'll add a sound file if I can figure out how to do that after it's on the ground. I was surprised at how much sludge was in the bottom of the front chaincase. I'm now installing my own Roper Plate, we'll see what the bottom of the pan looks like. Also, I discovered that my cam sensor clearance is...frighteningly close. .002" or so, but with zero witness marks on the sensor after 15k miles I'll not touch it. Whoopsy- imagine my surprise when I actually got the centerpunch and drill straight enough to save the original threads.

Hey, if Amazon makes a deal with them, Piaggio will be required to actually produce the parts they catalog and deliver them before the next generation of bikes is released.