Pressureangle

For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.

I've traveled a lot this year, oddly. May have to go to VietNam in a couple weeks. Must be the military immunization bloc. BTDT

What's the explanation for the power difference? Intake valve shrouding is the only thing that comes to mind.

I wrecked my knees on the hood of a Pontiac in 1980. My doctor told me ten years ago "You needed new knees years ago". I attribute my ability to get around as well as I do to cycling. If I go a couple months without regular bicycling (for you jokers) I knot up, cramp up and suffer. Cycling is zero impact and high range-of-motion exercise. It's important to get comfortable with clip-in pedals, so you can involve your hamstrings and hip flexors in a balanced effort. I'll second the Magnesium as well, Potassium doesn't seem to help with cramps but Magnesium does. Also, if you have lower back pain, try rolling a towel and using it under your lower back area, even if you're a side sleeper to keep your spine straight. A soft mattress kills me after 3-4 nights, so consider that; if you have a very soft mattress, consider sleeping on the sofa or try putting the couch cushions on the floor and sleeping on them, see if that doesn't help significantly.

I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front. I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered. Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Konis; Upgraded fork springs and FAC dampers. After some spirited if limited local riding, I ended with the forks out of the top triple clamp about an inch. These are the steel clamps, I have no way to know if they're 'original' or 'kit' trees, and don't know the exact difference. Ultimately, the thing was a lumber wagon with the 18", perfect for fast straight riding but with proper setup the 16" is perfectly stable with good feedback and confidence, while being enormously easier to turn in all circumstances. It's possible that the thing just really hated the Metzeler front it came with, but I never tried something else before the swap. So there's no definitive answer, but that there is no inherent problem with the 16" front. You just have to find what it likes.

This is a very old post, but you know how it is. I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans. For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair. So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the two pipes flattened and welded to each other, with no holes in between. Lovely engineering, eh? Perhaps it's better for power, I don't know, but calling it a crossover is a bit disingenuous. I have to wonder what Stucchi has done there. Meh.

The U-joint phasing is critical; that is, the front and rear yokes must be in perfect alignment. Assembling a spline off will eventually kill the joints or gears, unless it shakes your seat off first. That said, if the spline count is even, you can align them at 0* or at 180* with no difference- except that if you put the front zerk up and the rear zerk down, you can grease both zerks without turning the wheel in between.

I have a couple sets, metric and SAE. They're awesome. The only thing you have to mind is if you've drained the entire system, or run new empty lines, they have enough resistance that you may not be able to compress the air in the lines with the master cylinder. Probably not even a potential problem on a motorcycle. They work as advertised, and best part is they don't drip all over when you gravity bleed.

Maybe it was the other forum, but I recall some long threads about one cylinder misfires that were maddening. It was Tonti bikes, but perhaps the same applies here. On my '85 LeMans, I had a weak cylinder- don't recall left or right but to make the long story short, the positive feed to the coils came in on one terminal, then there was a short jumper wire from there to the second coil. A significant number of bikes had that jumper fail, which killed the secondary one. A simple replacement of the jumper wire fixed the problem, but it was a bitch to discover. If your coils are set up this way, a simple measure of resistance in the jumper wire might tell the story and make for a simple fix.

Randy, was the flicker a noticeable event in the past? Always curious.

No idea, and not enough access to the bracket to measure. I'm going to use the 80/20 rule and say Probably.

The bracket is in place on mine, and the bike was so stock and poorly cared for when I bought it I have to believe it is stock.

Ditto reservations.

I might be interested in one of you'd like to reduce your stock to an even two dozen. The simplest thing to do is PM me with your Paypal email, and I'll send an invoice.

I have about 25 of them but not one installed... :/ lol

https://www.ready.gov/cert Our company in Ohio is in, as am I here in Florida.

I worked on RV's for some years. They're full of Maxifuses. I've seen a lot. What you have here is a classic case of 'shyte Chinese fuse'. See how the terminal spade is as thin as the 'fuse blow' bridge? No mystery here, the fuse is very marginal if in fact capable of seeing 30 amps. I'd wager if you blow it intentionally, you won't see 25 amps. It simply overheats the thin area and over time melts the plastic, and heats all the surrounding contacts. Simply shyte, $0.0001 saved on materials x 5 billion pieces. Find a 30A fuse that doesn't have any thin areas besides the blow bridge. You'll probably have to order online, and they'll cost $5.00 each.

I got ten years out of a PC545 in my LeMans. I tried reconditioning it with an electronic battery saver, but it did not respond, something I did find in Odyssey's literature. Not an option apparently, and lost the very expensive 27 series Odyssey in my Charger because the ground fault popped on the trickle charger circuit while I was out of town and left the battery flat for a couple weeks. No recovery possible. On the Lithium note; I put one in my 1100 Sport-i a couple summers ago. It was...marginally satisfactory. It had great cranking power, but very little reserve- my onboard camera has a parasitic drain for a 'parking' mode, and it took enough out of the Lithium that it wouldn't start after standing 24 hours. After standing in the bike for a year disconnected but for 3-4 short rides, it never did start the bike reliably again. I loved the weight but ultimately went back to the Odyssey.

Hey, it's Winter here and Wintertime Navel-Gazing is the U.S. National Winter passtime for bikers.

Now put that 1.5% on the end of a lever the height of the battery. It's noticeable. No, it doesn't really matter.

Well, it's 78* and sunny here...Kinda like a stripper, though- looks great but can't ride it.

I did some forum searching but didn't come up with enough information to satisfy my curiosity; What is the stock '97 1100 Sport-i charging system? What type regulator? What do you see for charging voltage? Has anyone sourced an adjustable regulator? Curious. Went to start today, Lithium battery has apparently departed; never really had as much reserve as I'd have liked anyway. I'll probably go with Odyssey, but I did like the light weight under the seat.

...All that said, after having a close look at https://www.briskusa.com/ , I wouldn't hesitate to try them if the price isn't ridiculous. They seem to cover all the bases.

Here's a little spark plug science for you; Nology plugs I can attest to the fact that some engines really, really hate platinum or iridium plugs; GM 2.4TC, 1990's GM 5.7 TBI. Every engine type and every ignition type has different requirements and peculiarities. I use NGK BPRs in my 'Guzzis. There is rarely any magic in spark plugs; some engines hate some plugs, but as a rule if your engine isn't race-tuned, you'll never notice any difference. Back in racing days I did find that in an 883 H-D sportster, dual-ground strap plugs gave a hint more power and covered up a bit of rich/lean during carb transitions. That could potentially help our dinosaurs, but I've not tested it.