Pressureangle

With better port shape, combustion chamber shape, and camshaft I think 20% improvement in both is possible. My 505" big block '68 Charger has seen 23+ mpg more than once, and I'm limited by the mechanical igniton timing.

Alright then. The Money's spent, let's see if I can get there. Friday Blairsville, Saturday see you guys.

Ah... Looks like going to Little Rock via Tellico would only add at most 5 hours to my entire trip total... boy I hate I-75, even in a car. I could cut off above Macon and come through Blairsville, I got a friend there I should see anyway... What's the motel situation around there with short notice?

Aaannnndd....no. I really, really thought hard about it, but it's just a bit too far and I'm already thinking about the weather crossing the mountains in Montana. Change my mind.

Ok, this is going off hopefully this weekend. I'm installing the Innovv K2 cameras tomorrow, then final garage stowage and off. I intend to record and YouTube the install of the camera system (hopefully) and any particularly interesting bits of the ride along the way. Anybody along the route who wants to get together for coffee or a ride-along, let me know and PM me for my contact info. I'll be checking in on my FB page too; https://www.facebook.com/eric.lacruze Planned stops; North Arkansas OKC, Liberal, KS Fort Collins, CO Cheyenne, WY Yellowstone Bozeman/Kalispell, MT Seattle/Port Angeles, WA Longview, WA Portland, OR Reno, NV Cupertino, CA Mullholland/Rock Store, CA Las Vegas, NV Mesa/Tucson, AZ El Paso/Tyler, TX Mobile, AL

You *might* be able to have the zerk forward if you use the stock low-profile zerk from the original joint. It appeared to be easy enough, but I can't be sure as I didn't have the original zerk anymore and didn't care at that point to swap out the one from the rear joint just to test it. It's entirely possible that the space between the yokes would still be too tight for an unaltered grease head. At the end of the day, I'll modify something to fit and or remove the rear wheel for greasing. With the Xtreme grease I'd like to think they'll survive this 7500 mile trip without being regreased. That is if I ever leave the house, I'd thought about 15 Aug for the start date and I'm here typing 5 days late.

LOL forgot to finish this tale. The new DC u-joints fit perfectly in the yokes- they are slightly less tight than the originals, which were a tough move. The included grease zerks are so large that they hit the yokes; I had to find smaller zerks on ebay... https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pieces-Metric-Grease-Fitting-M8-M8X1-M8X1-0-Zerk-Nipple-45-Degree-Deg-L-CA/201786925134?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 You'd have thought I'd have noticed that and kept the stock one, right? Don't fail to keep it. I installed the u-joint, after careful consideration, with the zerk facing forward, hoping to ease access. Of course, I didn't consider the zerk-to-shaft clearance which is negative, ghost rider. Fortunately also, the new joints have a slightly different cross structure than the originals, allowing fairly simple removal and repositioning the zerk back to the rear. At the end of the day, everything went back together exactly as Mother Goose intended. Trying to out-engineer Italian engineers fails if you don't have any idea why they did what they did. So, I merely pulled a very long, expensive, intensive regular maintenance on the shaft and drive. I used Mobil Xtreme Grease on the joints, replacing the stock lightweight stuff in the caps before intallation and Jet-Lube open gear lube on the splines. All that, and discovering and correcting the yokes being un-tight on the splines of both ends has made everything much smoother and with noticeably less driveline lash. Now, if I can get out on the darn thing.

So, after some back-and-forth with Kaoko, I ordered the SUZ100-16.8 Throttle Stabilizer, made for late model Suzuki 600 etc. Considering that the plastic throttle sleeve had been ground a bit in the past, and I changed the grips of course, I didn't expect a perfect fit, but the thing went on and does what it's supposed to, and not what it isn't, perfectly well so far.

Yeah that was deffo broken before now. My '97 has 10 (?) spline shafts, and the yokes were loose on the splines on both ends. All four of the pinch bolts were hella tight and came out with the factory threadlocker on them. I wish I had tested them to see how much they had to turn to tighten up before I removed them, but upon reassembly everything tightened up nicely. I didn't torque them, but an educated guess with a 6" 3/8 drive ratchet says about 30-35 lbs-ft. And red loctite 'cuz they're staying in.

LOL! I wondered what those flimsy little brackets on my forks were for.

Add this too; CR748S is with no nipples it’s a lifetime lubrification. CR15 is with a 45% angle nipple in the middle of the universal joint

Got it. Technomec Inc. 9380 J.J. Gagnier Montereal, Canada, Quebec H1G 4T5 Tel : 514-381-2017

How about as simple as your fuel petcock is partially blocked, closed, or for some reason failing to deliver enough fuel at load? You've checked the pressure, but you probably aren't able to check it while riding.

Re-reading your original post, considering everything, it seems obvious this was a problem in the past with wires cut. Time sensitivity usually means a heat problem, and heat problems are most often a high-resistance connection that is marginal when cold and passes into failure as it heats. Also, the ground path is overlooked, and reports are that MG made very poor choices with ground circuits. Although I performed more than one change at once, grounding my instruments/fairing bracket/frame/engine all together made everything smoother. You may investigate the ECU ground, the engine to frame and engine to battery grounds as potential trouble spots.

Don't ask why. I need a 22x50,20 Della Concordia CR 748 universal joint. No such animal exists in the USA. The $6 Chinese version wasn't even good for a paperweight, nor as a bought lesson. Is anyone on this list in Italy, able to supply one (or two) and take payment? At this point I hardly care what the handling cost is. Nobody in Italy wants to ship to the U.S. over the internet. And I don't trust the Russians.

My '97 Sport Injected did that while the cam sensor was failing, including feeling a bit better with a new TPS. Then the sensor went completely dead. If it gets worse with heat, and comes back when cold, perform a resistance check on the cam sensor when cold and hot, check that it's not shorting or opening with the heat. Mine was swollen and hard even to pull from the case.

Awesome website. Back at ya; everybody needs this one. http://batteryuniversity.com/

With every one of these devices that rest on the brake lever, they fail to design it so that the resting bar is at least parallel to the brake lever, causing the throttle to be rotated open when you pull the brake lever. I don't like it.

In any case, 120NM is ~88 lbs-ft. Not particularly tight for such a large piece, anyway. So tightening the nut isn't threatening to damage anything, even if they meant tightening the axle into the nut. As stated above, I've never seen an axle nut come loose on anything, ever.

"P.Roper" torque . . . So, this business of "torque the axle from the drive side" . . . Any basis as to why? Sure. You are just torquing the nut, not the whole assembly with the attendant drag involved if you are torquing the shaft. At least that makes sense to me.. Yet the V11 Workshop Manual torque page states: "Rear wheel spindle screw (housing side) 120Nm" I've always read that as torquing the axle, not the nut. I never did it that way, but that's how I read it. After so many struggles with my reardrive(s), I'm trying to follow the directions, now. But I'm curious about this special instruction. Purr-Happs you have the axle in backwards...? [edit/docc: That cannot be done. The axle goes in from the right ("housing side"), nutted on the left swingarm.]

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXRy1_nPPSeMQnaam1Hz2vM12xJ5q4bXZ

Good stuff. I'd worried too, about unintended activation/deactivation/durability of the Kaoko. I like to rest my hand on the bar end sometimes, and that would lean on the lock. It appears it's plastic too, and for the price you'd expect billet aluminum. Harley-Davidson has had this figured out for fifty years.

Options; Look through the bin at the hardware; often, different lots of nuts have different heights. Yours looks to be pretty tall, you might find a new one a thread shorter. Look for a non-nylon locking nut. 'aircraft nuts' or 'pinch nuts' are usually shorter than nyloc. Since it's a non-load bearing component, I'd feel safe even with a low-clearance nyloc, which may have 1/2-2/3 the thread engagement. A last, but hard-to-find option is to source a nut (or make one, if you have a light touch and cobalt drill bit) with safety wire holes and wire it.

I'm really ...um... not cool about having anything touching my brake lever, after that whole 'turn one at Daytona' debacle. I suppose proof is in the pudding, and experience over time creates trust.

Thread from the dead. Looking for 'cruise control' for the '97 1100 Sport. Anybody know what fits/doesn't fit? I thought these are cool, overcomplex, and mostly unobtrusive and user friendly. https://usa.kaoko.com/MOTOBRE-Throttle-Stabilizer