Pressureangle

Went to Yellowstone this summer, along with a bunch of cool stuff along the U.S. and Canadian Rockies. Crowded everywhere; even in 105* heat, the line to enter the four corners site was hours long and of course on a bike I surely didn't wait. I heard a Park Ranger use the term "Revenge Vacation", referring to people who were making up lost time after sequestering themselves during Covid.

Well said, overall. I followed hydrogen cell evolution in it's initial development; ultimately it hit the same wall as battery power- the scarcity of critical resources, in this case *water*. It seems plentiful until you calculate how much you need to supply a city full of cars, and in many cases in cities where water is already expensive and scarce at times. LA? Phoenix? Never going to happen. I am a big fan of electric vehicles, in operation, but I don't fool myself about their viability. Hydrocarbons and internal combustion are here to stay, says 3 Billion Chinese and Indian users. Until someone survives the attempt to revive Tesla's universal free power theory, we're stuck with what we have enough of. Those who hate the status quo are free to imagine themselves helping by riding a boutique chassis.

Rapid relay cycling is (afaik) a consequence of low voltage; the signal circuit activates, and when the delivery circuit connects the user drops the voltage below the hold-in requirement of the signal circuit. Rinse and repeat. The diagnostic I'd begin with is tracing the wiring diagram to find the point at which the signal and delivery circuits have a common voltage source. Docc and others have had trouble with the main 30A fuse and the underlying wiring (circuits that mine doesn't have). There are threads relevant to that, and in fact every thing every where. Patience will get you there, along with a little help from your friends. I'm doing hurricane prep in the rain, so I can't research.

That's what I get for calling FEMA durtee bastids.

One can tell when they're over the target by the cries of the offended, and the Ad Hominem argument that always follows. I'll not respond to any more silliness here. If you want a good drubbing, PM me.

The entire internet is at your fingertips. You might ask yourself 2 questions; Who gains by the conspiracy? Who gains by pointing to it?

I've seen more than a few hurricanes, this one was special...for a few reasons. First, it blew up very quickly. The storm surge was not only deep, but very fast as the sand piled up in the coastal towns attest. Then, it stayed very strong over land- much moreso than I've seen or should have been expected. I just drove down the path through Georgia, there was 200 miles of no power. I saw trees still laying on downed power lines a week after the storm- it will take 2 or 3 months to get that all cleaned up. I saw steel farm silos blown in- not just lids off but literally crushed. For a hundred miles, I saw speed limit signs on the square posts with holes on all 4 sides blown nearly horizontal. So flat the first one I thought a truck backed over. A radio tower had the top blown over. Hundred year old trees were uprooted everywhere. Many homes and cars crushed. Fortunately, FEMA wasn't there to interfere- communities had set up dumpster depots where people could dump trash. The lumber companies set up stations to bring wood and tree fall to be ground. I saw more log skidders and log trucks in towns and yards than I ever saw working the woods before. Fortunately, they don't have floodwater to contend with there. Here's the punchline- people in the Carolinas collected rain seeds. WTF would they seed a cat 4 hurricane for?

This, I know lol The seal sticks because it wasn't lubricated. This is why the instructions say to smear a little oil on them. Since quite some time ago, you may notice they started having a white powder on the ring, that's the manufacturer's hopeful solution to lazy or uninformed oil changers.

Yeah, the ol' electrical ghost in the machine. Mine's a '97, so the relays aren't in the same place, but I had the same troubles. New relays helped, but at the end of the day It took getting mad enough to truly service the entire relay/fuse panel properly. I disassembled it as far as possible- I don't mean that I removed every terminal from the block- but had a good look at everything and remade every connection I could find, to the battery and to the frame. What truly resolved the problem was giving every terminal a bath in CAIG DeOxit D5. I'll never be without it, amazing stuff. FWIW, I've been able to source the above referenced OMRON relays in any quantity from my local pick-n-pull junkyard; they're in pretty much every Jeep product. I pull the ones lightly used, whatever they may be- not engine fan, headlamps, fuel pump but rather fog lamps, horn, etc.

They didn't say specifically, they just said do everything the same as you would without it. So I used Comp Cams cam breaking lube, that's what I had. Part of the microblue process is micro-polishing, so the 'break-in' isn't really the same as with unpolished parts.

Your engine doesn't care. The compatibility issue died decades ago, as paraffin base oils turned into base for synthetics and synthetics changed and advanced. Only the higher number matters, unless you ride at temperatures below freezing. I run usually run Klotz 20w50 V-twin in my motorcycles because it tests at the top. But if it's not available, I use Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. '68 Dodge Charger with 502 stroker, '04 GMC Yukon with 8.1L, '74 Aermacchi H-D Sprint 350, '21 Enfield Himalayan... Everybody eats the same thing. That said, I do add some zddp to the 'Guzzis just because they have lifter issues with severe use.

I can't guide you on cams- lots of choices. My understanding is that the stock cam was designed for max power without compromising drivability by Crane Cams, and if that's true its probably going to be very hard to improve. My recommendation is that whatever you choose, send it ti Microblue for coating. I had them coat all the moving parts in my '85 LeMans and I was amazed at how slick it is. After 10k miles, the cam lobes show no signs of wearing through the coating, and they have radiused Ford Y-block lifters under 165# LS Chevrolet springs. http://microblueracing.com/index.html

FWIW, Andrew and Randy took a ride South that I wasn't up to, and lament; it's my regular path in and out of the 'raid. Next year I may suggest, if the weather is as nice, lunch in Helen, GA.

I'll not be so lazy again as to ride even that short distance in short socks and vent tennies. I was naked and afraid. Mostly cold tho.

The Lodge is cloudless at the moment. 3:49pm Thursday.

Mine was running when I put it away...

Game On

Weather between Lavonia, GA and Tellico is complete shyte Thursday and Friday. Last straw, I'm out. I haven't cancelled the room at the Lodge yet, if anyone wants it speak up.

Yes, it's been since...started by State in 1967? That the US has required 'headlamp on' for motorcycles. But I don't know if or when Europe stopped using the 'city light'. My '97 Sport still has it, though the switchgear doesn't allow city lamp only. My thinking was that the system(s) are engineered for 80% daytime (city lamp) and 20% nighttime (headlamp) operation. Can't never know for sure, I suppose.

Let's review some basic theory, and in the context of how we ride. Heat is created by current (amps). Amps is a function of Voltage over Resistance. Sometimes it's not intuitive, that a *reduction* of voltage actually increases current, when resistance is very low and demand is high. For instance; You came home from a nice ride, but spent 20 minutes idling in traffic and residential streets (low charge output) You always ride with high beam on (additional demand) Next morning you let bike warm up before riding the same 20 slow minutes to your favorite rev zone You do this 3 weekends in a row. Euro bikes all have 'city lights' and it seems they're intended to be run as usual, with headlamps only at night. I'm guessing here, Euro posters please give some clarity. So it also seems that Euro electrical engineers produce marginal systems to operate at max capacity constantly. So if you create a low battery/high charge situation, (high demand) with short-trip low speed rides, and high headlamp demand, low rpm output voltage, you maximize the amperage current through the system. Consider that even if every connection is perfect, the system itself may not be up to the task, robust enough, to tolerate that as a permanent condition. I reviewed the electrical schematic, fuse sizes, and expected demand. It's very close. Assuming a 400 watt alternator, that calculates to 28.5 amps at 14 volts.| Drop the voltage one volt to 13, and the amperage goes up to 31.7. Now we see where we may be in trouble. So the moral here is, as I discovered on my own bike, that the higher the charging voltage the lower the amperage. Maximize your connections and also your riding habits, or use a battery tender to recover between rides.

Hm... tasty But you're a few hours farther than my start point in Lavonia, GA. I do have a proper tire machine available to me here, as well.

My rear tire is still in my living space. Two nails on the 1500 mile Dunlop. One, ok with plug. Guzzi content The second, 1.5 inches from the first. No bueno. Still may make it.

My ignition switch created a capacitor out of aged grease and debris, which *after some period of time* illuminated the dash and taillamp and drained the battery intermittently. Perhaps yours carries enough current to hold the headlight relay on. Consider cleaning it.

I still have to collect the bimmer from Michigan, via Rte. 66. May as well pass by Virginia on the way out, since there's nothing between Michigan and St. Louis I want to see again.

I may not make it this year- the past couple months have been... painful... Outside of the 'Alaska trip' in which we didn't make Alaska, but was awesome, I've been buried by BS. Representative of my status, I took my Mom's unused 2004 Yukon as a tow vehicle to collect my '04 busted crank pickup from San Antonio. 1300 miles from Michigan to Florida, rock solid. 300 miles from home towards TX, the fuel pump takes a crap. No biggie, but the shop ran me around the flagpole for 5 days before simply declining the job. So me and $750 went over to Harbor Freight and did it myself in the Tallahassee Best Western parking lot. Well, at least it made me feel like I was 19 again. Somehow that isn't particularly satisfying.