Pressureangle

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It's in, and using Raz's map, tweaking it with the o2 sensor for my pipes.

I have a '74 Aermacchi 350 and '71 Fastback Commando apart for that. This one is for riding. (I'm in S.FL so no winter off season)

Or maybe I didn't load the last page. 6 years.

Wow. Last post 10 years ago. Just got mine sorted in the 1100 Sport i. Magnificent.

When I was going through the Sport upon it's arrival, I found the airbox full of tar, and it took 4-5 times of very serious chemical assault to clean the mung out of the TBs and throttle plates. I used an entire can of carburetor cleaner, and nearly an entire can of TB/intake specific cleaner to get 95% of it out. I've never seen anything like it. The odometer showed only ~20k miles, but the bike's obviously been down so it's possible it isn't the original. Can I suggest you buy a small ultrasonic cleaner off ebay ( they are very affordable) to make this job and many others very quick and easy. Ciao you mean as in *take it apart*? I'll apply the 80/20 rule any time 80% is 100% serviceable and invisible.

That term was coined by Todd Haven (RIP) of MPH cycles. At that time, they sold a plug and play kit to plug into your Guzzi to cure the problem. I still say, "She's dead, Jim." I would at least try a known good battery. The meter doesn't lie. If your battery drops below about 9.5 volts during cranking, the computer shuts down to save itself from overcurrent. (at least that's common to stuff I've worked on) Your starter quite possibly draws more amps than your load tester, if you have a small handheld. Your battery is 4 years old. They don't make 'em like they used to, either. Get a new one. If that's not the problem, you needed a new battery soon anyway.

Been there before they filled it in. Sissies.

My '97 Sport i came to me with intermittent intermittency. On the way to a complete and sudden failure, the timing sensor symptoms were hard starting, spluttery and unsteady running, similar symptoms to lean conditions; this evolved (over the course of 100 miles or so) into quitting altogether when hot. Related to your symptoms, somewhere along the way it did begin to cut out at about 2500 or so, as if it was running out of fuel. At the end of the day, when it was cold it mostly worked but when hot went open-circuit. (I verified the resistance at temps but don't have them recorded) So, they don't necessarily fail all at once. As for their function- and I'm not trying to start an argument- a simple coil generator like this actually makes more voltage as the reluctor passes faster, so theoretically if reluctor gap is the issue, it should show up at lower RPMs. I would suggest that a shorted or part-open coil will have an unsteady field, confusing the computer which wants to see a steady sine wave. I found the cam sensor on ebay from Europe for $18 plus about the same in shipping; they used this same sensor on about every fiat and other brand in the world, but they never came to the US so we have no source for them here.

It's a gravity well. Don't look in.

Centauro! https://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/mcd/d/1998-moto-guzzi-v10-centauro/6547136733.html

*additionally* but not *entirely*.

I hate countersteering threads. But I can't stop myself. Bicycles and Motorcycles have precisely the same characteristics. Countersteering applies *only* at the initiation of a turn; that includes from a vertical straight line, or from an equalized constant radius turn. To change the attitude of the vehicle, you must change the relationship of center-of-mass to contact patch. The only way to get them farther away from, or closer to, vertical alignment is to steer the front wheel opposite to the intended direction of turn. Countersteering is NOT turning. It is setting up the balanced dynamic that a turn requires. Separating the act of setting up a turn and executing a turn in one's mind opens up a whole new world of understanding, competency, and control.

The core of the thread was keeping oil from escaping the breather. Negative pressure is really just a potential side benefit of changing the breather arrangement to better control oil transport.

So because of the warranty, I ordered this one. It was a direct precise replacement; the diameter was the same, length, even the two power posts were the different and correct sizes. It's also a pretty blue color. As soon as it caught fuel, it was obvious that the old pump was suffering; the old pump was pretty noisy and 'rough', and the fuel returned to the tank through the regulator sounded 'squishy'. Now with the new pump, it's very quiet and smooth, hums rather than rattles. The returning fuel sounds smooth, steady, and pure. If all that makes any sense... Anyway I'm very happy with the new pump, though the old one hadn't failed (but once). I'm calling it pre-emptive maintenance.

When I was going through the Sport upon it's arrival, I found the airbox full of tar, and it took 4-5 times of very serious chemical assault to clean the mung out of the TBs and throttle plates. I used an entire can of carburetor cleaner, and nearly an entire can of TB/intake specific cleaner to get 95% of it out. I've never seen anything like it. The odometer showed only ~20k miles, but the bike's obviously been down so it's possible it isn't the original.

I've installed the WebCam 86b in my '85 LMIV. .447/.447 298°/298° 260°/260° 86b Though this cam has numbers very similar to the Megacycle 620x7, it has very, very good street manners and low rpm tractability. I haven't dialed in the top end yet, but it's already considerably faster above 5k rpm than my stock Sport i. The difference that doesn't show in the numbers is that the Web cam requires larger diameter lifters, because the lift rate is faster sooner than the Meg cam; that means the valve opens more 'curtain area' (exposed area between valve and seat) sooner in the cycle, and flowing more air off-peak. That translates into not only equal or better performance at peak rpm, but better characteristics off peak and smoother power curve throughout the range. I can't leave well enough alone, and the work and expense of installing the Web probably wasn't worth it simply for the improvement difference (never rode the Megacycle so I'm speculating) but it was as much an academic exercise as anything. The roller rockers need a bunch more valve spring to get to peak power, with R&D springs it's limited to 7k rpm before losing valve control. Here's a pic album showing the restoration with pics of what I had to do to install it. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6lOTNerG1sbqs9QkvBwZIQSc6AvZKZD28FDiehtuVaPt8g8hU3yUGBNH2MFwddQ?key=MTgwQ05SWlZyeW9scDZIdHNHdUw4Z2NIaXptWnZR

Excellent vid and explanation. The Norton doesn't lend itself well to crankcase venting because it's a close-case dry sump. Is yours a Colorado Norton Works reed, or something you made yourself? (I have a '71 Fastback in the works, apart and researching) The Guzzi has a lot of places to put a vent up high where oil can separate before it reaches the vent- even the stock place isn't bad, but the limitations are obvious. A hosed reed like yours in the distributor hole or I think at the top of the timing chest would be great.

The subject of crankcase pressure has the same voodoo about it as balancing v-twins, quench clearances, and oxygenated fuels. Every engine design is different, so each requires a particular vent layout, with the goal in mind-and that goal is a moving target in some engines. The Guzzi big block has, by comparison, a huge crankcase volume so pumping losses are far less than something like a H-D Sportster with it's huge flywheels and dry sump, or a modern motocross 4-stroke. For nearly all riding styles, the factory venting is perfectly adequate. The theory behind a reed valve is that the overall crankcase pressure is reduced; it is, and with proper design reduced by a lot. Reducing crankcase pressure to a point is good; it reduces piston effort to some degree, but most importantly and sort of in the shadows is the density of the air moving in and out. Denser air carries more oil vapor, mixes more with vaporized and slung oil, and creates a tighter vortex around the crankshaft (I had a friend in Roush's durability lab, who said a v-6 buick at 8000rpm could carry 8 quarts of oil in the crank vortex, starving the pump) and has a higher velocity moving through the holes in the breather. Adding the reed valve raises the point pressure a tiny bit, but eliminates entirely the return air; creating a partial vacuum in the case. Lesser pressure in the case facilitates oil return from the top end instead of pumping air upwards through return holes, etc. Splashed oil has less resistance to get where it's going and return to the sump. The crank carries less oil. It was found, though, that if pressure falls too much- and that can happen if you work at it- there is less than desired air pressure to push the oil out of the sump and up into the pump. A reed valve can never exhaust more air than the minimum crankcase volume when both pistons are down, so it can never overevacuate like a pump or exhaust pitot. It's dead simple, cheap, easy to mount (inline in the hose if necessary) The only real problem is that if you don't baffle it well enough, any oil that gets past it stays past it, and running a non-pressurized return to the sump leaves an open hole and kills the concept. I designed a crank scraper for my '85 LMIV and started with Ishihara-Johnson but sort of lost track of it when my wife passed. I'll stir that pot up again if it would fit your engine.

I'm going to set up a small bottle in line with the breather, and clean out the airbox completely again just to run an experiment. There's nothing to say that these two possibilities are mutually exclusive.

Um, my '97 Sport i has two hoses going from the spine to the pan...? Some engines just don't like being revved up and staying there. In the days of the Daytona H-D 883s, we took the oil pumps from older iron sportsters (-30% volume) and had quart-sized catch cans. Pumping on a common-pin V-twin is enormous. Link to pics? Is it carbureted? I was thinking a reed valve and catch can with return in the distributor hole would be nice-if you don't have a distributor. Something at the top of the timing chest would be good too, if it was baffled to keep slinging chain oil away.

I hate being a gadfly, or worse yet stupid, but well here I am... My Sporti had a boxful of tar when I got it. During the cleanup I removed the box and cleaned it completely. I was surprised to find enough new oil back in it after the first 300 mile highway trip that I investigated pretty good; I found no trace of oil or dampness at the breather inlet nor evidence of oil on the air filter. In fact the breather inlet has a little track of white dust and rust. I was thinking the oil is actually blowback from the inlet valve guides. Thoughts? Who has checked the amount of oil in the airbox vs. vehicle miles/distance ridden/speed etc? If my theory is correct there should be more oil in bikes with more miles, bikes with big cams, bikes ridden with the throttle open farther more often, bikes ridden at high speeds.

RC cola and Moon Pies.

We'll see how it pans out. I'm a bit of a desert rat- I'd much rather be hot than cold, so my primary weather consideration is the Montana mountains. But yeah, OK in the summer isn't exactly a riding Mecca.

Hm. For $20 I'd like some manufacturer and warranty information. I can't find any pressure/flow chart for any of these pumps. They have a very small volume requirement relative to automotive pumps, yet are not much smaller in size. For 100hp should need only 10gph, and the smallest automotive pump I can find is about 35gph. I may have to do some testing...Anybody have a fuel pressure regulator laying around?