Pressureangle

I'm planning a very long trip this summer, if I prove I can stay on the bike long enough- so far so good. I don't have a schedule yet, but If you're near the route and might like to have lunch or a ride-along, pin yourself in Yellow on the map. I'll be staying West, FL/Dallas/OK/CO/MT/WA then returning down the coast through the SW. http://j.mp/2DMOWhB

My new-to-me '97 1100 Sport i has ~21k miles on it. I've been through all the electrics, replaced the cam sensor, TPS, remade connections and replaced all the relays. New hoses through the entire fuel system. Everything seems fine. Except for that one single time, in the driveway after a cleaning when the pump didn't start, and a light whack with a screwdriver handle set it going. Now I'm nervous, and I'll likely just replace the pump. It's 20 years old, even though low mileage and is out front in the air. What's the group experience with external pump life?

505" RB with Holley dual quad EFI, A/C, cruise control, Hemi 4-speed with Passon aluminum case, Gear Vendors Overdrive, 3.55 gears for touring 4.10 for fighting. Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Irving Vincent.

Sooo... Docc picked this out of my photos. I've owned it since I was 18. Found it in Alabama in front of a trailer park for $300 in 1980. Drove it home to Michigan with no brakes to speak of. Drove it 'ratty muscle car' style for decades, finally gave it the love it deserves in 2011 and did two Hot Rod Power Tours in it.

I'll have to measure the wire, source it, unwind the coil and count turns then re-wind it and solder it in place. Pretty fine work. My broken wire was the one from the inside of the coil, broke right close to the coil wrap where it peeks out the side. Had it been the outside wire I'd have given up one turn and had plenty to work with.

Dan Stern (linked above) supplied the bulb and ceramic lamp plug, which will not melt or distort from the additional heat. FWIW I only use the high beam at night, with no oncoming traffic so use is limited to cooler running. Also, adding relays increases voltage which reduces current on the plug.

I installed a 100/55 H4 in the LM 1000, but upgraded the socket, wiring, added relays for H&L beams, and the lens is actually glass. It's positively magnificent. I'm not so happy with the '97 Sport, the lens is plastic, getting hazy, and I'm not confident a 100w high beam won't injure it. I'll be looking into changing the lamp assembly, possibly to the same one as the '85 LM.

Resto pics; https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP6lOTNerG1sbqs9QkvBwZIQSc6AvZKZD28FDiehtuVaPt8g8hU3yUGBNH2MFwddQ?key=MTgwQ05SWlZyeW9scDZIdHNHdUw4Z2NIaXptWnZR

Do your homework; http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

And for "Wire Rope", like our throttle cables? NO! Wire rope like cables on cranes and winches. The stuff is thick and heavy so it won't fling off, and sticks like heck.

This is pro stuff, similar to the aforementioned Wurth product but much less expensive. Made specifically for open, dry environment lube. https://www.grainger.com/product/1HBK7?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166591268592!!!g!392080792495!&ef_id=Wo9WZAAAAFvEa0N7:20180315004547:s

Saweet. Thank you. Alas, cable operated gauges only. really? he wouldn't work on it? Noop.

Saweet. Thank you. Alas, cable operated gauges only.

Saweet. Thank you.

Tach failure, advanced course. The tach on my '97 1100 Sport-i quit, mostly suddenly. I read everything, tried the grounding and fairy dust. I learned a few things, and one relevant thing; The only thing the case ground serves is the lamp. The electronics are 100% insulated from the case. In this case, the failure is at the tiny motor coil that drives the needle spindle. Unfortunately for me, the broken lead is the one from the center coming up the side of the windings so I have no free wire to resolder to. Were it the outside lead, I could unwind one wrap and recalibrate with the pot if necessary. I suppose I could measure wire and count turns, but i just don't have that in me. Yet.