Gmc28

anyone know if the 15RC from a California works for a Lemans? i'm assuming yes, so long as the proper map is uploaded... but maybe i assume wrong.

Thanks P- kaoko just sent me their form asking me to measure and take pics of all the various handlebar stuff, which i may do, but if you’ve had success with the GSX-R 16.8mm ID model, then that’ll probably short cut the process. And before i forget, thought I’d mention that above in this thread (or one of the other threads on this topic) someone mentioned the throttle meister “departing the bike”. I had the same experience with Goldie, shortly after i bought her from my friend. Never had an issue with the throttle meister setups over multiple decades, but the throttle side came off enroute to town one day, bounced off the tarmac, and hit my knee, before bouncing into the tangles on side of the road awaiting discovery some day from a paleontology team. No huge surprise i guess, given that its just a loose bolt on a vibration-prone handlebar, but just goes to emphasize the obvious, that a little loctite (once its adjusted just right) is the way to go. The folks at throttlemeister took mercy on me and sold me a single side bar end unit (1/2 set) for a good discount at that point.

Feel free to PM whenever... all good. I generally park the V11's in the fall when the rains come, and then ride less and ride stuff with bigger windscreens and that i don't mind getting as dirty. Many good all-weather V11 riders on this forum, and my hats off to 'em, and it makes me happy to read about them, but i've chosen at this point to make the v11's my "keep them shiny" bikes, and abuse other bikes. But point is, i try hard to do most of my bike mx in the rainy season, with the wood stove going in the shop, and am game in the winter to offer whatever help i might be. You mention the ducs.... i'm a big multi fan, having owned multiple Gran Canyons, the "grandaddy" of the Multi's, and then a couple air cooled multi's, then an early 1200, and now a multi enduro 1200. Other than the PITA for doing the valves on the big, 8v water cooled engines, i love them, and the valve job is really only a thing every few years, and any more i just pay to have it done. I've eyeballed the 950 MS lustfully many times, because the 1200 is a heavy beast, but i always come back to confirming that i love the multi enduro 1200 with its huge tank "the mostest". The only issue with the size of the 1200 or 1260 is if going off-road. Off pavement is fine, such as the FS roads around our beautiful state, but single track or technical stuff is just ridiculous on the top-heavy Enduro. There are those who do it just fine, but just because it can be done doesn't for me translate into "hey, this is fun", because it just isn't. Even if the top heavy-ness doesn't cause a crash or lay-down, you're still thinking about what a bitch it will be to get that bike back upright if it goes over an embankment.... you'll need several good, strong friends, or a heavy-lift helicopter to get it back on its feet, on the trail. Getting it upright is one thing, and I can manage that, but upright from down a slope where its landed upside down.... that's what in your head as you navigate rocky single tracks on a steep slope, which leads to a death-grip on the bars and the consequent less graceful riding technique. But man, the ridiculous amount of torque and HP, comfort, that 8gal tank, and the fact that i get between 42 and 49 mpg, depending on how i'm ridding it, makes for huge range, and just removes the worry from trip planning for gas stops. I have a KTM 990 for when i want to take a long distance machine on a good long ride but also go off road... its the best for that for me. It's currently stuck in Alaska at a friends place, where covid and life have caused me to leave her un-loved now for this whole season. A truly comfortable long distance machine, with that windshield that looks like a barn-door but works perfectly for me, and then its better center of gravity, and just all-around better manners for off-road. it ain't no dirt bike, but for me is the best model in that little micro-slice of the riding segment.... where you want to be able to ride for days on tarmac but also be comfortable on some easy to medium single track. I'd actually argue the the Cagiva Gran Canyon is the best for that (imho), but after riding them for years i finally admitted to myself that i'm just too tall to make it fit me. The Duc enduro is the opposite... it's tall, and with that 8gal tank, it feels huge, but she's like a harley on the highway (in the good sense... comfortable, and with a ton more HP and handling thats not even remotely comparable). A close friend of mine down there in Bend bought my nicer Gran Canyon a little while back, and is why i have two v11's... i have his beloved v11, as part of that trade. He wanted more off-road option, and i loved his v11. I let myself get on a huge tangent there... forgive me. all of that was to say that i think you'd LOVE the 950 MS, though i have not owned one. I'd certainly want the tubeless spoke wheels, though i don't think i'd care as much about the cable clutch vs the later model offered hydraulic (normal) clutch. And for what its worth, while you certainly can't beat a japanese bike for reliability, Ducs are just plain easy to maintain and are reliable these days.... gone are the days (for the most part) of the beloved but less trustworthy Bolognese machines. Since 2010 (anecdotal, not scientific) my ducs have been drop dead realiable, with only the oddball issue now and then, just like my friends on their hondas and suzukis. And importantly, despite what i said about my KTM and about japanese reliabilty, I try and keep it italian!

any update on this by chance? I use the various "gocruise" devices on my bikes, but rode my other V11 (goldie) yesterday for the first time in a while, the one that has the throttlemeister, and remembered that i subtly prefer that kind of friction lock over others. Appears throttlemeister has closed their doors, so looking at the kaoko option. have the kaoko on a ktm, and it works fine for me, so thought i'd give it a go on the V11. saw a lot of banter about all this here and on wildguzzi. fwiw, i've got a strangely damaged throttle side shoulder, and i end up spending a lot more time than i should with my hand off the throttle (to relieve the shoulder issue). Ya, bad habit.. C'est la vie (guerre?). I used the gocruise and equivalent/other-brand devices like that a ton, including on the red V11 for its Texas-to-oregon trip last fall, and works a charm. i keep one in my man-bag full time in case i end up somewhere that i can rent a bike when away from the nest. but they are less ideal for tweaking the throttle just a smidge up or down, as compared to a properly installed throttlemeister. lots of variables in all that, so as always ymmv, but thats my .02 after using about 5 different gocruise devices, and a good number of throttlemeisters (and some other junky devices i won't mention here) on a slug of different bikes and setups.

That would certainly be best. I just offered the low lying fruit.... and like to know if there’s something else amiss if the Italians think one size should fit but then it doesn’t match what i find, so then i pause. I found a sheered bolt at one point, but it was a (fairly) clean sheer, so took me an extra minute of head scratching when reassembling from the batch of bolts in the parts tray as to what was going on.

i'm no coach, that's for sure. but if you're ever up west of Portland area (north plains) on a ride, i'm willing to offer what i have, which is some shop space plus the stuff i've needed to get/keep my machines in good shape. i'm no expert with the V11, but am comfortable with the whole process, basically as spelled out in the docc's decent tune up, though based on what you've written I'm guessing you're largely referring to the computer stuff? if so, i've got an old windows machine with guzzidiag installed and the cables set up and working for my 2 V11's, and what's needed for TPS, and then other more common things like my old twinmax, and just-arrived-yesterday new carbtune toy/tool to mess with at some point to supplement the duty of the twinmax. Time is much more limited for me this time of year, with work being busy and the ideal riding season being short and precious, but glad to offer what i can. I'm in Bend every month or two for a couple days for R&R when i can, and could bring you something you needed if i have it. wish i was there in Bend more, but always seems to be too much going on.... a mixed blessing. Was there a couple weeks ago on the Duc Enduro, touring around a bit on that gorgeous route 242 up over the lava fields, then over to the Aufderheide for both on-road twisties + scenery, and off-pavement exploring, then back to the budget-busting dinner at Bos Taurus (that crown jewel of steak joints!). That largely defines the perfect day. You live in a great place! too bad so many others are figuring that out... we've had our condo there for decades, and have watched the metamorphosis.

same issue i inherited on my red V11. and i've seen it on other bikes, including other makes, including some "bavarian" machines. at this point on my v11 just being gentle with those bolts is fine, as its not a high stress area. and i agree that bolt length is a real factor.... first time i tore into my new-to-me Red machine, there was significant mix-and-match in the bolts/screws i was pulling out. perhaps this winter when the prime riding season is behind us i'll dig back into those again as well, and consider doing some better fixes. but starting with a parts diagram that confirms which length bolt for which hole would be a good box to check.

Sounds like a proper nice garage! When the Norge first came out I had reserved one to rent from Agostini’s, and was pretty excited. Plane broke down in Detroit on the way over to Italy, and I spent my “work vacation” in Wichita getting the plane fixed. A painful memory. Rode Red to work today, during this brief interlude from the hot summer temps (I know.... hot is all relative). Was about 50F in the morning, and the cool clear air along with a fresh throttle body sync helping to lift both our spirits, she purred like a kitten. Love it.

the guzzitech toe lever looks good. i have the lowered control pegs that the PO installed, and i'm fond of them based on my body dimensions, but i think the toe levers would still bolt on. i didn't slide the clamps back the couple millimeters, thinking that exposing the lengthwise cuts in the pipe wouldn't look as good, but i'll give it a try.

the improved overlap (pic). Just also noticed on the other side that the decent quality, Agostini supplied exhaust clamp now gets in the way of the kick stand armature that extends out and keeps it from banging against the (stock) exhaust. didn't notice till just now.... odd. doesn't really hurt anything that i can see, and is barely noticeable, but seems like an odd thing given the source of the crossover. rolling the clamp down and in won't work as the end of the tightening bolt hits the case/oil-pan.

i don't, and in the past on other systems have not found that work well for me, but i'm very much open minded about it, assuming that i may have been just using the wrong stuff. maybe there's a good product out there that i'm just ignorant about. tried using some product on a Cagiva exhaust system some years ago, and was a bust. ended up shimming the exhaust joint, tediously, but came out well, and still holding up nicely.

Very good... that’s more or less the warm fuzzy I was looking for, that not a lot of engagement is ok (I probably have about 1.25”, so about half of what the stock system), and that some stress on the system is not a cardinal sin. I did the new crush gaskets on the initial install a month or two ago, and this time just loosened a couple joints to achieve the better overlap. Thx Phil

good thinking on the slotting. the rear muffler hangars have the single bolt which doesn't need to be over-tightened (lock nut), and is how I "swing" the mufflers and x-over forward to slide onto header pipes more. but the notion of slotting one or both of the two muffler mount bolt holes, the ones on the muffler itself, might be the ticket to create the desired slack. i am concerned about cracking, but was under the impression that our headers without the forward crossover (the one on the header pipes that some bikes have/had), are less susceptible. either way, agree on wanting to minimize stress. want to make this agostini setup work, mostly on stubborn principle, but in reality i'll likely change over to the mistral crossover, which appears to have just enough extra length that it should fit together more naturally than using the agostini crossover, and make this all a moot point.

thread revival... the lack of overlap on my header pipe and crossover (agostini) has been gnawing at me, though perhaps for no good cause. i have the mistral on the other V11 (goldie), and am tempted to pull it off and put it on Red, to confirm that it has the "correct" amount of overlap, at least to satisfy my curiosity, and partly then to hide the scarred header pipe on Red where the stock crossover left its marks. i'd also gain the crossover mounting bracket which the mistral has for Red that the agostini crossover does not have (but then goldie loses it, though Red gets all the attention and riding these days). The other night i loosened just the front crossover pipe connections on the agostini crossover (all newly installed as of a month or two ago), as well as the rear-most muffler hangar, so that the muffler and crossover could somewhat "swivel" forward and slide more onto the header pipe (just got more overlap onto the header pipe). That required some effort, but just a little pressure from underneath with my arms, nothing mechanical and no rubber mallets.... But still i ended up tightening the clamps while holding some (20 lbs?) of pressure on the whole thing to keep it lined up the way i wanted. any of you out there experienced with exhaust work believe that its a bad idea to do that? my goals are as described above, and to help assure i have good snug exhaust joints. have also considered using some exhaust compound, though i have not been a fan of those in the past. most likely i'll just move the mistral crossover from goldie onto Red, and call it good, but then ultimately i'll end up with same question for Goldie (though maybe things will line up differently with goldie with its stock exhaust). i've also noticed clear evidence of exhaust joints that are NOT tight on goldie with the mistral crossover. I did not install that system, and don't know if it was user error, or a mistral issue, or if its not really an issue at all. any mistral users have comments on that?

That’s us. Nice action pic!

Actually I’m with Erickson Aero Tanker (Aero Air). Jack Erickson sold sky crane many years ago, and partnered with my boss to buy this company. And it is his collection we speak of. His name is part of both the old and the new companies, as founder of the old company and owner of the current one. We work alongside the big sikorsky’s sometimes, but we’re in the white/orange fire fighter jets, the MD87’s. And we’ve definitely been overhead in northern AZ quite a bit this season, and on the ground there at Prescott, Winslow, then over at silver city NM, etc.

think i'll give it a try. dollar is strong against the pound now, and always fun to play with a new tool, so will give it whirl and compare to the twinmax. that damn BMW dealer years ago put the bug in my head that maybe i can still get the sync always just a little better....

Love it! i'll head down to napa and get one right away, and carry it in the V11 road tool kit :-> i've got a soft spot for Alfa's, "peculiar" as they are. I spent the summer when i was 15 in italy tooling around in a 2.0 quadrifoglio (sp?), with an uncle who lived there and was insane enough to let me behind the wheel, so he could smoke and cue up his music on what was then a state of the art stereo (mostly Mario Lanza, Buddy Holly, and John Denver). All that espresso and nicotine formed an "elder" family member who should have been saying "slow down kid", and instead was saying "faster!"

Our company has a sizable collection of WW2 birds that’s kept at Madras airport, here in Oregon (likely not a town you’d know unless you’re from around here... a perfect place to build a nice big facility on a quiet airport). Pretty much Only the owner got to fly the P38, his favorite, for many years. The air show in Madras each year is great, because it’s such a quiet little airport, and not a zoo like some of the big air shows. if you’re a fan, here’s the collection: www.ericksoncollection.com And of course, to stay on theme, if you’re ever riding your V11 in or near Oregon, be sure to take in some of the top notch riding out in central Oregon, and stop by the museum!

If you want to share the part numbers, I’d be a taker....

Thanks all. Wasn’t really fearing anything major, just filling in the mental gaps. Mission accomplished! I’ll dig into the wild guzzi feed and check things out this winter. paul, I see a P-38 on the avatar.... u have a private collection?😎. Sweet machines.

i'm guessing there may be a thread on this but not seeing it.... My old Twinmax i've had since Y2K has been my sync tool. On the last go-around with the red v11 i noted that even on the most sensitive setting i wasn't getting much change as i adjusted things. In comparison, on the old oilhead i had for years that twinmax needle would bounce around soon as adjusting things out of the sweet spot on the sync in either direction. On top of that, at one point many tune-ups into owning the oilhead, i had the BMW dealer do a sync once, and it came back better than my previous sync's. Hmm...i had been confident in my technique and results, but now had a new standard. what was i missing, or did they just have a better/more sensitive sync tool? Not too long later, sold the oilhead, without resolving in my head what the bottom line was on all that. Fast forward to now, and i'm looking at comments (TomChri, etc) on the carbtune pro, and some other options, and generally see that folks tend to think the the carbtune pro might be more accurate than the twinmax, but thats really the question. I haven't ventured from the twinmax in 20-ish yrs, and love a good tool, so thought i'd fish about for input on whether to consider shelling out for a different sync measure tool. and no thanks for all the "just make it yourself" stuff. I know, those work, but I'm only interested in retail tools, and ones that are better than my old twinmax. And/or thoughts on what else i might be overlooking for why i'm seeing such little variation on the twinmax as i adjust the sync/white knob (yes, valves done, idle backed off, un-connected, etc.) Ciao

Thanks Docc- Then I shall ride on in bliss, and re-visit it in winter.

this is probably something i should already know, but i don't.... i have this seepage coming from left throttle body, leaving the fuel goo on the left side alt cover. is it something to just wipe off and ignore, or is it indicative of an issue that should be addressed in the throttle body? fishing for easy answers during the prime riding season, when i'm much less likely to fiddle and more likely to just ride, which then flips around to the opposite scenario in the wet season. So much riding to be done, so little time...

That sounds about right on the savings. you could probably look up your oval mistrals online and find the advertised weight. my ST4 of about the same vintage had a 9lb savings going from stock to aftermarket carbon. i just pulled a set of aluminum stock cans off my lemans, but they actually came from a sport, and were installed by the PO. Actually sounded pretty good, and I guess now I know why... They must have been cored, because they were (are) quite light. They’re way lighter than the two sets of stock lemans cans that I have on the shelf.