Gmc28

+1 - lets see a pic of the silver sport with the nifty turn signals!

Took red out for a spin, with the sun showing itself this weekend, but just rode 4 miles down the local clear-premium gas station. She runs sweet, but she’s wanting to idle at about 800-900 rpm, so i may bump it up. Shop tune vs road test… Adjusted the valves on Greenie. Was musing about why all the locks nut were so brutally tight, then remembered that despite her age she’s only got about 1500 miles, so thats got to be the 23yr old factory valve setting/torque. Not surprisingly they were not that far off. If i was going to ride it hard I’d account/hedge just a little for the break-in, but I just set them to normal specs as it won’t be getting a lot of miles in the near or longer term. Old valve cover gaskets came off in pieces, much of it staying adhered to the cover, requiring some effort and time to get it all cleaned up. And rounded up some replacement M6 bolts for the generator cover. Between work, broken arms, and remodeling projects, she’s coming along slowly but surely… anyone know a good wheel cleaner product? Old topic, but the S100 wheel stuff i have isn’t working on the Duc spoked wheel rims (black rims), and arguably is making it worse. The spoke spacing makes them a real chore to clean and an ideal candidate for a spray on miracle product, if there’s one that will work for that kind of surface, an almost eggshell black.

Mostly had to work on other house projects yesterday, but fwiw did compare several aluminum gray paints sprayed on some scrap aluminum to the original alt cover and the turn signal cover, and this Seymour “original non smudge aluminum finish” looked to be a very close match. And it says its good for engine blocks and such. Will see how it really looks later on the actual items that need the paint, and next to the VHT if it ever arrives.

Many thanks. I put that on order last week with a local auto store, as no one around had it in stock, but “supply chain” and other issues make it several weeks away. All fine, but i was looking around at other options, and sure enough the aluminum paint that i picked up did seem more shiny than i prefer, so i grabbed a can of satin finish clear, and thats the next experiment i was going to try. But all while awaiting the VHT. I did grab a bit of “tool box red”, for the little area of nasty rust that I’ll be cleaning up and prepping on the frame. Low risk of issue there, for while its visible, its somewhat tucked in under things and not as obvious, and will have a weld joint as a border.

Has anyone stripped and cleaned the turn signal dash aluminum cover piece and then just clear coated it? I’ve got some aluminum paint, but wondered about how a clear would look, if I can get a nice enough surface prep and etch.

Just strip some of the aluminum bits, mostly cosmetic, but including “dash” light cover, generator/coil cover up front, and probably some other areas here or there that may not be removed from the bike (small, less visible area on block toward the front) but which I’d work on in-place (maybe). Haven’t tried acetone alone. If i can get piece off using one of those “scotch-brite type” wheels you can put on a 4” grinder, though i’ve only used those on steel in the past… not sure for aluminum.

Mjolnir went missing a long, long time ago. The other hammers don’t deserve the exposure, though I’m still fond of them… On the paint topic, appears I’m going to have to mooch some Methylene chloride based stripper from the stash at the shop at work, as apparently only the environmentally friendly version is not available any more. I’ll only be a wee little bit environmentally naughty.

Spotted this tonight, on the speedo. I recall seeing some threads and FAQ info on the gauges, but posting this now while its fresh, to fish for what the recommendation is for this issue -

Interesting. I’d never tried S100 till last fall, as i had lumped it into the snake oil category with so many other miracle items, but a guy i know said it worked well for him. Tried it on my Duc wheels, as they are the spoked tubeless wheels and really hard to reach when cleaning, and didn’t seem to do anything, so that bottle sits on the shelf. Maybe its ok for other parts of the bike (?), but not working on wheels, and then not being good for the logos, well thats not a case for s100 so far for me… living on a gravel road was what caused me years ago to sell my beloved ST4… couldn’t take the anguish any more of it always rattling up and down that road, and always being dirty. I got over that, regretted selling the ST4, and then the county paved over half of the remaining gravel, so I got back on the wicked Italian bike wagon. But am still always interested in easier ways to clean the machines, as there’s still a bit of unpaved road left on my road. And the V11’s don’t rattle like the ST’s, with way fewer plastic bits. :->

You mean the wood stove? Isn't Voglezang a brand of stove, or is it a style? My stove in the shop is just one of the double barrel stoves, where the kit with the door and feet is purchased cheap, and you add the barrels and a chimney. But heats fast and strong. Lot better than the propane options i've tried out there over the years that leave strange humidity and not enough heat. Inside the house is my hat-tip to the couple good Norwegians on this forum, as that's where I have my beloved big Norwegian Jotul stove. It's other title is my task-master. I spend too much time cutting firewood when i should be working on the motorcycle! My old house is too old and drafty, so the Jotul demands to be well fed. But in fairness it also keeps my 85 yr old father active, as he runs that chainsaw all summer... For those so inclined, the book "norwegian wood" is a quirky and interesting read. Yes, the multi-play on words is intended. figured it was just a coffee table book with nifty pics, but ended up being an interesting read.

It was kept in a shed, that must have leaked. And spent its only active riding year in seattle where there's salt and rain... As i go through it i'm wiping off a lot of grime and mildew type stuff. But underneath in most cases is usually a "gleaming" surface of some sort, except in those cases where its bad, and then its often real bad.

And here she is, on the budget harbor freight stand now that Red is done and out of the way for rest of year. Don't judge the glimpses of my messy shop.

Touche doc. I'd tend to agree, but no obvious signs of hydraulic issues up above, and i'd have thought i'd see other signs of damaged paint leading to that area. But now that you mention it, worth a re-look.

looking at how to clean up the bad chrome here. naughty, naughty chrome...

anyone know where to find these cheaper than 70 euros (delivered)?

Similar with some of other bits here and there, including the aluminum cover up on the "dash". In a haze i bought plastic paint for that, but woke up and remembered i'll need aluminum paint. so will be looking at that shade of aluminum as well, to see if its different or same as the block paint.

Finally getting around to getting a little more done on the Greenie. It's the one i picked up about a year ago that legitimately only has about 1200 miles on the clock, but was stored poorly for part of its more recent life, and needs a good going-through from top to bottom. Red Lemans is running sweet, and now that i've got my arm/shoulder seemingly back healthy enough to ride again, all good there. Lot's of both good and bad surprises so far as I find time now and then to get back and tinker with Greenie. I have the tank stripped and repainted (ethanol damage), which came out nice (previously posted), and i'll be doing the decent tune up as I go along. I'll post some things on this thread now and then with how its going, and if anyone is so inclined they can chime in with comments or input. The paint on the chops and the frame is in mostly showroom condition, but then there's a couple spots where its real bad. Presumably its where water collects and drips when its wet from poor storage. in any case, i'll clean that up, and be looking for a decent red paint match if anyone has that intel (pretty sure that's searchable here, but haven't tried yet). The silver paint i think i have figured out, and its on order.

You weren’t struck by lightning? Must be that clean living. And raw oysters. And bourbon.

Like to see how that turns out when done at powdercoater’s…

Interesting…. I have Agostinis on Red, and at a glance thought they were the same from the picture. I still like the “bass note” the stock carbon cans on Goldie produce, but sure prefer the look of the agostini carbons. Non-sequitur: I have a bit of a sputter/miss on Red at about 3500+ rpm, sitting in the shop and running it up. Wondering if it’s old gas (just from last fall, clear premium, so shouldn’t be…), or if something else is going on. Does sound like the miss I’ve had on project bikes that had old fuel, and more than once I chased my tail trying to tune that issue out, only to find that refreshing the fuel fixed the issue. But this fuel isn’t that old. Did the usual tuning, and all seemed right, with only very minor adjustments needing to be made on valves, TPS, and TB sync. Once I have my arm back to be able to ride, I’ll have to shake it out and see if the miss/sputter is there on a road test.

Thats how mine is mounted… I could choose the mount angle on my GB. Though its mostly about looks, as the practical difference is very small. I live on a gravel road, and the fine “mud line shadow” thats clearly illustrated when I’m caused to come home when the road is wet (muddy) paints a clear picture in fine mud of the exact protection area of the hugger, based on the size/length and angle of the hugger (i have a couple different ones for the multistrada I’ve messed with over time). My only complaint, and its pretty only for those who are as abusive as me by living on a gravel road, is that i wish the GB hugger was a little longer. But thankfully my V11’s are pretty much sunny day bikes for me, so not a big deal. But the optional longer hugger i mounted on my multistrada makes an obvious difference, and it does get ridden in all weather, and on more than a little gravel/dirt.

Ghezzi Brian - He’s proud of those CF hugger mudguards, price wise, but they are nice. I have one and those same pipes on Red… nice look. Which crossover is that? “Today” on my v11 i wrapped up Red’s winter maintenance, and swapped the greenie project up onto the work stand. I say “I’, meaning my dad and i, as I’ve still got the mostly useless right arm, so credit goes to my dad in his mid-80’s gettin’ er done. I’m slightly embarrassed and pleased with a fix on the front lemans fairing on red, the last thing i had to do to her for the winter maintenance list. I know there’s a simple reason for this issue but i still haven’t figured out why on Red the whole fairing can wiggle up and down about 1/8+ inches. I’ve disassembled it and looked it all over, compared it to Goldie which does not have the issue, and just don’t see why Red does it and Goldie doesn’t, except that the bolt holes on the upper part of the mounting bracket are just slightly oversized for the bolt that slides through. I wouldnt think the hotes are oversized enough to allow that much vertical “wiggle”, but its all i can find that was amiss. Still a little bit of an unsolved mystery. But i wrapped the whole unthreaded part of the bolt with one wrap of aluminum cut from a pop can, to take up some slop/space, then wrapped the unthreaded part of the bolt head end a 2nd time, and then same on the nut side but on the nut side had the aluminum extend a little over the threads, so that as i tightened the nut it crushed and expanded the aluminum wrap, which did the trick of filling the gap. Jury-rig crush washer. No more wiggle, and its all “removable” modification, and invisible. It’s hokier than I’d prefer, but works and I’m thinking theres no real downside. Anyone else have this issue and know what might be missing or amiss to cause that?

So your 2 vent lines from the nipples are joined, and end routing “overboard” via the steering head area? I’ve had mine joined near the nipples and then routed down the traditional way to the charcoal canister. My intent on this go-around is to create a little union on right side where the joined/single line runs so i can simply disconnect it there and leave the nipple connections in place when i remove the tank. Is that a upgraded, niftier looking fuel filter there i see also?

Thx Docc. I may skip firing up the old B Gates laptop for now then, though greenie will need it. the broken bone needs to be “upgraded”, due to deeper issues. Steve Austin style is what I’m hoping, or maybe Sara Conners nemesis? Probably a month or more till they start, then lots of healing time.

Broke my damn arm again, just at the dawn of riding season. Sigh. But working at half speed to get Red off the winter tune bench, and wrapped up the valves, new valpolini gaskets, plugs, TPS baseline, and TB sync today. Have not re-checked CO trim, as it means firing up that old windows machine i use for that. I wouldn’t think CO trim would “meander” on its own, or am I just wishful thinking? Will pull left side TB off this week hopefully, and start going through Phils process of getting her tightened up so she doesn’t “drool”. And get those tank vent lines joined and with a properly placed union down lower so its a quicker R&R of the tank. Then will get her off the stand and Greenie up there so i can pick my way through getting her gone through for the first time, for mechanical and cosmetics. Probably something to mess with this summer while i daydream about riding…