shiloh

pic, on reassembly, parts arrived today. Big needle bearing about half way in, you can see the new inner seal and thrust washer(not bronze by the way) I used a big thick washer to gentally tap the bearing home, liberally lubed to help Fully seated Spacer tube in place Crown gear big support bearing, axle bearing and big outer seal cir-clip and inner race on crown shaft Crown gear in place Shim, the holes in the shim and cover only line up in one position 8x1.25 bolts torqued to @ 20ftlbs( 25-30Nm) screw down as you would a car tire, criss-cross pattern, being cast alum I would imagine it not to be too robust. All assembled, nice new satin blk paint job, the oem finish was pouched, flaking and the under laying casting was corroding. Will be back on the bike as soon as I figure out how to get grease into the front zerk on the shaft, and get my new rear tire(avon av66) mounted. Cheers

Naaa! that seal wouldn't support jack. The thrust washer under the seal and #30/31 most likely.

Well thats good to know then, gotta love over engineered stuff. Mystery solved

Yes, needle, exposed to the gear oil, so always lubed, same as #26 exposed and always lubed

Ok, from an engineering view point, look only at the crown gear assembly, you have a mounting plate that attaches it to the housing so it does not move. The crown is made up of basically 4 components, the gear #29, rotational ball bearing open cage #26 allows the crown to rotate and transfer that motion to the wheel. Outer support bearing #36{(sealed ball race same as a typical wheel bearing),(is also outside of the outer seal not in contact with gear oil)} and lastly the inner support needle bearing #12. #`s 12 and 36 are longitudinal supports, helps in eliminating wobble, only #36 is in contact with the axle and it spins at speed with the crown, #12 supports the biggish tube thinggy on the inward side of the crown(crown shaft I suppose), that bearing is pressed into the housing, the crown shaft inserts into it. The crown shaft is hollow and the axle goes through it, the 2 seals at either end contains the gear oil, you can also view bearings #30/31 and #36 as alignment/pivot points for the axle. So why did my rear end not wobble to pieces, I believe that #36 and #30/31 made up for it some what, but probably for not much longer as they are on their way out, if either of those two had failed/collapsed, the rear end would have exploded, maybe, or at the very least seized and transfered that energy else where, parish the thought. As mention earlier, I will post re-assembly photos, to show how every thing fits together and works. Heres a simple analogy of the crown assembly, play with one of those spinny tops that has a caged central wheel and a shaft running through it, spin the top and support each end of the shaft on the horizontal, it will spin true, remove one end support and you`ll see it will wobble into an unstable condition, simple right, everyones played with a top before. As luhbo stated above, all this is supported with in close tolerances and very confined spaces, this too could add to the over all stability without bearing #12.

Yes, I originally posted on ktc and here, Jim from the ktc forum posted my comments on the wildguzzi forum. It was there that others posted they have heard of such things. I originally posted to try and get some insight on the issue at hand. I kind of get the feeling some think this is bogus, but its not, Ive never owned a shaft drive bike and probably never will again, too much trouble for little gain. The fact that the very first time ive ever opened up a rear drive and found a piece missing baffled me and wondered how it could have remain together. Ive concluded that much of the stress was share amonst all the other bearings, thats why they're knackered and getting replaced. I believe if I had let this go any longer id be replacing or scrapping the bike.

hear are the pics I posted at wildguzzi. All cleaned out, redline heavy is a pain but a good diesel flush and it disappeared. Everything checks out except for the bearings as mentioned above. I`ll post more as the re-assembly commences, when the prts arrive

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=92889.msg1466287#msg1466287 someone over at wildguzzi commented on missing bearings, so I do believe it happens, Hard to think why it would until it happens to you. I only discovered it because it is an old bike in need of a fix.

I got confirmation that as soon as a seal shows up, the order will ship out. I`m not in any real hurry now as the weather up here has gone south. I`m going to surmise that the bearing has been missing since day one as there is no evidence that one was ever installed. as most who have ever removed and installed close tolerance bearings, there are impression left in the surrounding metal, this is not present, factory fresh, the machining/lathe finish is still, well, factory fresh. Now that being said, there is evidence that this `box` has been entered in the past, but if serviced by a non, in the know Guzzi tech, how would that tech know what should or shouldn`t be in there. There are plenty of other bearings in there to bare a lot of the load, and most of those are being replaced as they are knackered including the wheel hub bearings. A snake camera won`t see it as there are spacers in the way, so if you`re worried, then pull it and tear it down, it don`t take long, I think I was about 45mins once the bike was on the service stand. My bike has relatively low mileage and lucky that way, if your bike is a high miler the odds are probably in your favor its good, (should `ave bought a lottery ticket), the odds of this happening in 2000 are probably, one or three in how ever many were build(v11`s) that yr, not withstanding all the other various models made. I do wonder if this was build on a Friday who knows.

Pickup lines that never work... Try "in", Dave. " . . . right in" . . . LMAO

The goods are ordered from Harper`s. (16/10/2017) Q. I`ve seen no movement on my order, are they usually this slow?, (was hoping to have had he order delivered by now)

I using whats recommended in the service manual, The guys that built it should know best, I hope, maybe The red line stuff may be ok, but after cleaning out my rear drive, I`m staying away from it.(bike came stuffed full of it.) Transmission drain and flush is next, I hope diesel will get rid of all the the red stuff, it was hard enough cleaning the rear drive while opened up, some sticky shyte it is.

Check for loose connections, bare wires causing intermittent shorts, bad relay? Park at the top of a hill

Ok just got off the phone with the service tech at harpers, he laughed and cant explain how the box hasnt detinated yet. The bearing listed wrong dimentions so that clears that up. The circlip is for the crown shaft, thats present. So tonite I will be ordering all necessary goodies to make this right. Hopefully it all goes back together as per. Cheers.

Only that bearing and what appears to be a circlip that sits on top of the seal are missing, By the looks of things that bearing would be pressed in and there is no signs that any such thing was ever in the box. I dis-assembled on the bench nothing fell.

ya, no Trying to understand why the parts in the topic are missing and why it hasn`t failed because of the parts missing. If I replace it, it will be for new

I`ve put a little over a 1k km on it since I got it, Im surprised it didn`t fail. Maybe I should just buy a complete replacement unit?? 450$cnd ouch

Hi all, just removed and tore down the rear drive to see why it`s leaking. Pretty easy tear down every things nice and clean, no abnormal ware. The leak is from a destroyed inner seal, #10 Now for the interesting bit, the big roller cage bearing and circlip, #`s 11 and 12 from the exploded view diagram, are A-wall, I mean not present. There is no evidence that a bearing was ever installed, the surfaces are factory mint! No groove for a circlip either unless its just friction fit? The bike is a 2000 greenie, and according to the diagram on harpers site they should be present?? The dimensions for said bearing is 40x45x55, yet the space in the housing is only about 20mm high x 55mm dia. Am I missing something??? I`ve checked yrs 2000-2004, they`re all the same. Help!!

I know here in Canada almost all fuels are 10% ethanol blends with exception of a few. The percentage is supposed to be indicated on the pump but that isnt always the case. Ethanol is power robbing and average milage suffers, my 02 v70xc will do @600km on reg fuels combined average while @ 700-800 on 94 premium. But the cost of doing so for me is prohibative, $150/ltr. My guzzi runs as smooth as silk on 94 so thats what I use in her, my other bikes, vintage kawi thriples get it as well, they dont like ethanol low octane fuels, hard to start, bang and knock, run hotter and just plain wont produce any power. I know this may sound consperacy-esq, but all ethanol has done is increaded fuel sales, less milage more sales. All the average consummers hear is that its good for the enviroment, I see little evidence of that and some reports to the opposite. In Canada more sales equates to higher tax revenue for big brother and thats how re roll up here.

Why so much bleeding, is there air getting into the system, that would make the brake action feel soft or spongy.

As I mentioned after buying my greenie, I noticed the bevel drive was weeping fluid. Was thinking maybe the big seal was pooched so I ordered a replacement viton seal. Leveling the bike I removed the inspection plug and a lot of oil poured out, obviously over full, the oil is a thick pinkish red colour and real frothy looking, is this normal?, never seen gear oil look that way before. I also added a smidge of seal conditioner to the mix thinking that would help in the mean time before tear down, after a spirited ride, the spilage was only a couple specs on the rim? Over fill causeing leak, conditioner plus proper level cleaning up the issue? Either way itseems to be better. When I get around to doing the replacement what can I use to flush out all the old frothy oil before replacing with new? Or does it matter, dont want to damage the other seals. Cheers

Yikes, is that frost...... And I thought it was cold here this morning.

Ok, got it, thanx guys.

Ok dumb newbie Q. The bike, 2000 v11, runs fine, idles fine but i've noticed the tail pipes are blk and sootie which to me indicates an overly rich burn, or is that normal with these. Q. Does tps and co trim adjust this? Q how does the ecu know if there's no o2 sensor? O2 sensors monitor ignition gases, yes, in order to stay with in emission guidlines. Sorry for the inquirey, but I think I need a grade 2 explanation to understand how this works.

Started out this morning on my h1, was ripping her pretty good till I broke my righ side pipe, so I limped home and fired up the guzzi. Ended up doing 175 sprited miles around the lake Huron and Georgian bay shores. Lots of twisties and great scenery, the old girl never missed a beat. Love this bike ♡♥♡