Amarrache

Very cool. Had no idea about these with LEDs. Found some online. Much appreciated.

Hey guys. Thank you! I was the 30amp fuse. Though there we no visible signs that it had burnt out, I removed the old one, used WD40 connector cleaner and a toothbrush, put in the new fuse and voila - revving I get over 14v. Thinking the issue was maybe just a dirty connector, I put the old fuse back in and only got just above 12v. So looks like it definitely was the fuse.

Howdy folks, Haven't been on the forums for a long time after my V11 was totaled. But since then I was able to pick up a 2000 V11 Sport (it's a greenie) and have enjoyed it for some time now. Totally forgot about the forums here and was reminded about them by a fellow Guzzi rider when we were discussing the issue I am now experiencing. A couple weekends ago when riding the battery warning light came on. When I got home I thought to check the charging system. Sure enough when revving the bike I was not getting much past 12V (the battery is only a couple months from new). Searching the web I found the likely cause was the regulator/rectifier. I purchased a new EnDuraLast unit from https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/. Swapped the old with the new. Turn on the bike and the battery warning light no longer stays on. Great. Problem solved, I think. But, checking with the multimeter I am still not getting much past 12V. Notes: Multimeter is not the problem. I have a couple other bikes and the meter is showing 14V+ when revving. I went back and checked all the connections, and they are firm. I did remember to attach to two ground wires that screw on to the regulator/rectifier mounting holes that attach it to the bike. And the battery is new. Advice would be appreciated.

I've read a number of posts but I think they made me more confused than before. A couple weekends ago I was prepared to ride my V11 and when I flip on the ignition there was an odd screeching sound coming from under the seat. The sound was emanating from the cluster of 5 relays. The neutral light on my instruments was flickering a bit and when I tried to start the bike it just made clicking sounds. Searching in previous posts, I saw that V11 relays had a habit of going bad so I purchased replacements through Digi-Key. Earlier today I just swapped out all 5 relays to cover everything. Turning the ignition key a similar screeching sound was heard. Turning off the ignition and back on again multiple times, the screeching happens some times and not others, with just clicking some times. Same inconsistency with the neutral light. On at times, other times not, and other times flickering a bit. The starter does not crank at all when I hit the starter button. Before the first incident a couple weeks ago, I had the bike on a trickle charging in my garage. Before the trickle charger, the bike sat for a month with being started but not ridden a couple times. What in the heck did I do? This is getting beyond me and I'm afraid I will need to get the bike to the local Guzzi dealer. Any basic things I can check to try and narrow down the problem?

Spoke to the gentleman that owns the red 2002 Lemans you’ll find over here - http://www.mgnoc.com/classifieds.html Real nice guy. Shipping isn’t cheap to get it from MO to Los Angeles. Also A bit apprehensive about buying a bike sight unseen.

Keeping a look out.

I need me that. My 2003 has is getting salvaged by my insurance company. Too much damage on the bike going down (with me on it) in early June when a cager decided to change lanes with me right next to him.

Ugh. What a bummer. I've been communicating with the owner and he seemed nice enough. But now that I think about it, something didn't seem right with a couple responses I received.

Check this Nero Corsa out on Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Moto-Guzzi-V11/132697349141?hash=item1ee560dc15:g:nfQAAOSwE-xbEFcI Nero Corsas were originally sold without the typical fairing? Was the fairing some sort of optional dealer add on? The original owner is running the auction and says the bike was bought new without the fairing. Just curious how this worked initially.

Thanks guys. What should I be using to clean the pistons? And this did happen after I installed the levers. I got the levers off of Ebay. No brand that I can see.

Thanks guys. Ugh. I did recently put on aftermarket brake and clutch levers. I didn't even think about the adjuster screws. I have backed out the adjuster now a bit on both the brake and clutch. But sorry, still don't think I understand why having the "piston" partially in would cause the problem I had. And why would the lever have been forced open not even allowing me to squeeze the clutch ? I did not check if both rotors/calipers were hot. I'm going to spin the front wheel tomorrow, but how do I check for warped rotors? Visually I should just be able to see this by spinning the front wheel?

Not sure if this is the right area of the forum, but here it goes. I was riding home from home last week splitting lanes on the famously congested 10 freeway here in Los Angeles. About 10 miles down my route home it felt line my bike was losing torque. Riding another 10 feet I realize it felt like the brakes were being applied so I started moving off the freeway from the far left lane. One lane over my front tire slips from under me and I go down on the freeway. Luckily the usual LA traffic probably saved my life because everyone was only moving 15 mph. A UPS truck stopped in time 5 feet from my on the ground. I pick up the bike to start it and I realize the front brake was locked. Being stupid I reached down by the calipers and immediately burn my fingers on the blistering hot brake disc. The front brake lever is in fact not pulled back in the braking position, but extended fully forward and with all my force I cannot get the lever pulled back at all. Long story short, even 15 minutes later standing there on the freeway now being protected by a cop's car and waiting for a tow(the bike needs to be lifted up), the bike won't roll. Five minutes later out of habit I check if the bike can roll and sure enough it does and the front brake lever is functional. WTF happened folks? I am afraid to ride the bike now. If I had been doing 70mph and the front brake locked I would be dead. What could cause this? What should I look for? Thanks.

Thanks guys.

I'd like to avoid removing the rear wheel off (not to mention the swingarm) and I accept that the procedure will take me longer if I don't. What tools will I need. Just the appropriately sized wrench with a real long handle to make the reach?

I found a forum topic on the simple way to bleed the clutch - http://www.v11lemans...clutch cylinder - but how do you reach the bleed screw in the first place without having to remove anything for accessibility?

Thanks guys.

So what is "wrong" with the stock setup and what is required to make it right? I don't have the software and manipulating the ECU may be beyond my abilities, but curious.

Is Lucas Red N Tacky #2 appropriate for greasing the drive shaft? Continuing my 12K mile service and greasing the shaft is on the list. If RNT is a no go, what has everyone used? And is there anything to be cautious of when greasing? How do I know when I've added enough? Will the grease start oozing out of the Zerk fittings?

Guys, Sorry if there is already a discussion about this, but I couldn't find it. Anyone have experience with one of these? - http://www.ebay.com/itm/PE-PJ-001-ELECTROSPORT-POWERJET-FUEL-CONTROLLER-MOTO-GUZZI-DUKATI-SUPERBIKE-/151950230341?hash=item2360f08345:g:McMAAOSwT~9Wl95J&vxp=mtr Is it worth the money. Is it as easy to hookup as claimed?

I rode the bike a few times after I bought it and before I took off the tank to start doing the 12K maintenance. The low fuel light did in fact turn on, then it turned off, and back on. I think it is affected by the fuel sloshing around in the tank (on a hard and fast stop the light turned off). When I drained the tank I would say there was still about a gallon and a half of fuel still in it. Does that sound right? The low fuel indicator goes on at 1.5 gallons remaining?

Any idea where those Techspec tank pads came from? I looked for these but couldn't find a specific application for a V11.

Nope. Sensor comes out real easy.

What I was concerned about is the sensor freely comes out of the tube it sits on and that fuel would enter the tube (is that OK?) which contains the wires to the sensor.

I'm there with you. I'm also old enough to remember writing a simple computer program by punching out small tabs on a card (well, hundred of them).