Ian

No joy with researching the figure for the air gap so I’m going to try 105mm which is the figure for the ohlins fork and see how it feels

Thanks mate, but the post is for the early marzocchi fork not the larger diameter one that I have. The internals are different. I suspect 100mm air gap is in the right ball park, but I want to try and find the exact measurement for my fork.

Folks, I’m part way through a fork oil change on my 2004 V11 sport. It’s the marzocchi large diameter fork. The manual say to refil with 435ml of 10wt oil but what I really want to know is what the air gap should be. I think this is a better way of getting the correct oil level because you can never be 100% certain of getting 100% of the old oil out unless you do a full strip down, which I’m not doing in this case. Does anyone know what the air gap should be for this fork? BTW I’ve gone through all the old threads I can find on this topic but not been able to find the answer so far Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as I want to get the forks back on the bike tonight

I got them from eBay.com, just search for: 20X BA9S 3886X 1815 Xenon White LED Instrument Gauge Dash Light Bulbs For chevry I don’t know if they fit the indicators, I just used one for the parking light in the headlight. Cheers Ian

Please put my name down for one as well please. Amazing dedication on this issue - great work

Ah, beauty is in the eye of the beholder! For me it’s worth it because I’m old and decrepit and my nighttime vision is lousy. Also I think that LED lights stand out more and increase the chance of cage drivers taking notice of us before they pull out

Sorry for the slow reply, I was travelling back to the UK. The cyclops site is the right one and yes it fits fine in the metal headlight shell on my bike. Interestingly the driver unit on mine and the wiring arrangement looks very similar to lowryters unit, but the fan looks different. BTW I also got an LED sidelight bulb to match, because the yellowy filament bulb on the sidelight looked wrong alongside the LED main bulb. Ebay is your friend for those

I feel the need to weigh in one this one......having used them before on my BMW GSA and KTM990A I recently fitted a cyclops 7000lumen H4 LED unit to my V11 and can report that the light output is phenomenal and the cut off line on both dipped and main beam is superb, in fact it is way better with the H4 bulb on the V11 than was the case with the H7 bulb on the other bikes. Very very impressed. The Guzzi is off the road at the moment awaiting wheels coming back from the powder coaters (3 weeks, long story) so I can’t report on heat output discolouring the reflector, but I know for certain on my other bikes it wasn’t a problem

Now that is interesting, I recently pulled the discs off my 04 sport to have the wheels powder coated (scratched by prev owner) and the front discs were secured by hex head bolts which made getting them out a doddle. The rear however had the same allen socket head bolts made of cheese that you have and I also destroyed every single one. I also destroyed the little allen socket head bolts that retain the Cush drive cover. Grrrrrrrr. New bolts order ready for when I eventually get the wheels back and I’m actually thinking of forgoing the loctite and putting copaslip on them, then torque marking the heads with paint so I can keep an eye on them. What do folks think about this idea?

I looked at this one too, the exhaust is scratched/dinted and they weren’t up for doing anything about it. They did seem desperate to sell it though so there could be some room to haggle. If it were me I’d spend more money and buy the Le Mans with 3 miles on it

Now I like the idea of the fitting service as well

Great reply, thank you!

Folks, grateful if anyone could advise regarding the compatibility of guzzidiag with MacOS High Sierra? I am thinking of investing in a new MacBook and want to be certain that it will run guzzidiag before I commit. Thanks Ian

I guessed that might be the case, there was no grease on the axles or on any of the pivots/linkages. Seems like the factory ran out of grease the week my bike got built

Wheels off to be powder coated so today I serviced the back end of the bike, doing the full wheels off inspection checklist and pulling the swing arm and drive shaft to grease everything up. Found nothing nasty anywhere and it's all back together now, lubed up and sparkly clean. First time I've pulled one apart and I have to say it's a nice bike to work on

Thank you kindly. Something looks twisted in that photo though.......

That's weird, I've done what you said and still can't find it!

Can you point to the listing please, I can't find it searching for Guzzi V11 stucchi

P.S. I'll gladly give some feedback on the WR450 when I get a minute. Awesome machine that makes up for my average dirt bike skills and some

Yup, spotted the threads on tank off and wheels off maintenance and planning to work through those step by step over the next few weeks (no rush, going to be cold, wet and salty round here for while yet) The bike was a long distance purchase over in Oregon, which was a bit of a risk buying it unseen but the seller was a good guy and the bike is in better condition than I could ever have imagined so I'm very happy. She's up in the air at the moment though awaiting shiny new wheels to arrive back from powder coat. Meantime I'm assembling all the parts and fluids I need for a full service and tuneup

I’m having fun getting to know my newly acquired 04 V11 Sport. Not ridden it yet because they started salting the roads here as soon as she arrived but I’ve got her stripped down for a thorough check over and service. I’ve not found anything untoward yet apart for some scratches on the front wheel rim which has resulted in both wheels coming off to be powder coated. What’s interesting to me is that the bike looks like it has never had any maintenance in its 9000 mile life, other than a standard scheduled service at the dealers (stamped book, receipts and clean oil are testament to this). How do I know? Well there are little clues like no wrench marks on fastener heads, no grease on the axles, no lube on the gearshift linkage, no lube on the lever pivots or cables, no lube on the sidestand pivot. Everything completely dry!. Other than the scratches on the wheels the bike is pristine. It looks like it has never been wet, there is no road grunge in the nooks and crannies and no sign of corrosion anywhere. I’m not used to this coming from the UK where buying a used bike is usually followed by a full strip down and VERY intensive deep clean de-grunge that can take a few days to complete Overall I’m very very pleased with it and I’m enjoying getting to know the bike better as I get her fettled for next year. Anyway, after the long introduction I could do with your advice please on where to buy a roper plate. From reading through this truly excellent forum it seems like a no brainer to fit one while I’ve got her apart. Any help appreciated

My dad's philosophy on torque setting was "3 white knuckles and a grunt" but I do recall he once lost a wheel off his car doing that

Sooooooooo, having now bought a pair of sockets I can absolutely confirm that on an 04 sport the front axle nut takes a 30mm socket and the rear takes a 27mm socket. In case you're wondering.........the wheels are coming off to be powder coated. They have some random scratches on the rims that neither look like tyre lever marks or gravel rash, either way, they'll soon be history

The front is 90-100nm. Pretty tight I'd say

Well the torque setting for the rear axle nut is 12kg/m, that definitely needs a socket and a breaker bar. Not found the torque setting for the front yet