antmanbee

I do have one that fits the description. There was crinkly paint on the engine/trans and it has the padded tank.

I use an infrared thermometer and measure on the cylinder head stud next to the spark plug. I find it is more consistent than the exhaust pipe. I also will make adjustments in tunerpro for the cylinder offset map until I get them to be 10 deg difference or less. It is true that there are many variables that could affect the temperature. I think equalizing the temps is a good way to compensate for the many different tolerances involved. But an accurate tune first is needed to minimise these differences. It has been a while but I think I remember getting around 260 to 280 deg on the stud.

Load the Meinolf map. It fixed mine. No stumble or coughing. Don't screw with the PClll.

You're getting your dead gameshow hosts mixed up. I think you need to ask Monty. On door #1 I can't help my eyes being drawn to that ugly charcoal canister under the bike. What is wrong with me?

I am referring to the flange on the fuel tap that is attached to the underside of the plastic tank that is retained by 2 allen head cap bolts. The o-ring is slid over the fuel strainer and then rests in a circular channel in the face of the flange. The channel is about 1mm deep and the o-ring protudes 1mm above the surface of the flange and is then compressed against the flat plastic of the tank when both the cap head bolts are tightened. I hope to not have to remove it again, but I got 9 spares.

I think you're right. The 1.78 is the thickness. I just got my o-rings and they measure exactly 2mm but with a round section rather than square like Phil mentioned for the OEM ones. I put it back together and it appears to be no leaks so far. Success!! I did not use any sealer of any type with assembly, just the o-ring with a tiny amount of grease to hold it in place. Thanks

Thanks guys, I have ordered some 16OD x14ID x2mm o-rings. They should show up later today. I think the 2mm thickness will compress and seal the flange. Phil, I have read your posts on the rebuild of the valve. I'm sure it is the best way to get a reliable valve. This is the first time I have shut the valve since I got the bike and I hope to not have to use it much, otherwise it will most likely necessitate your repair. Regarding the o-ring, do you think a dressing with some kind of sealer is adviseable? The ones I ordered are, Buna-N - Standard Nitrile Butadiene Rubber.

My garage smells of gas and it looks like it is attributed to a leaky flange o-ring on the manual petcock. Does anyone know the size/specifications of the o-ring, part no. GU90706116? Also is it recommended to install a new one dry or with some kind of gasket sealer? I was hoping to get one from a local autoparts supplier or fastener supplier so I could fix it today rather than ordering it from an online shop. Thanks

He ordered a whole new assembly yesterday. Since the bike is his daily driver, he was hoping that someone could measure so he would know what to order to repair the old one. I think that when he gets the new part and installs it, he will measure the ujoint and fix the old one as a spare. I am not sue why, as the original lasted 88K miles. I will most likely go help him with the job.

My friend with my old Calvin is in need of a used ujoint. If anyone has an old one with ujoints that are bad he would still be interested in it. He may be able to source the ujoints by themselves and rebuild it. The one on his bike is most likely rebuildable too but he does not know the dimensions of the ujoint. If anyone has one that they can measure, then he could order the parts. I think the ujoint assembly is the same from late 2003 up to 2012. The bike is his only transportation. Thanks

Nice looking Miata and nicely photographed with the warm sunset backlight.

My chip looks like this. I don't know what a stock chip looks like or if mine is stock.

The NGK LB05F plug caps which I have are 5K ohm. I remember researching several years back about Guzzi using 5K caps and also using 5K plugs for combined 10K. I don't remember if I found out why.

I just happed to have a pair of the NGK caps in my box of spares and I have read on various models about the problematic caps. I have not read of bad caps on the V11's and that was one of my questions, are they problematic? I have replaced the caps on a few of my other bikes that have solid core wires and usually I just replace the plug end because it is much more frequently pulled on and off, while the coil end is rarely disturbed. I like the nice solid feel of the NGK cap on the threaded plug end.

Thanks

Sorry if I was not clear in my question. To simplify, the only question I really wanted to know is, are the OEM wires solid core? If so I can use my NGK caps. Thanks

I have used the NGK caps before and I know how they screw onto the solid core wires. I didn't want to ruin the old wires and make it unridable if the wires were not solid core and I could not screw in the new NGK caps. I will order new wires if they are not solid core and then use the new caps. My other Tonti frame Guzzi's had solid core wires.

I have some new NGK LB05F plug caps that I am thinking about installing on my V11 on the stock OEM wires. My question is are the OEM wires solid core and what is the best way to remove the MTA caps on there now? Are the V11 MTA OEM caps junk like I have read about on other Guzzi models?

Good tip. Amazing that it bolts right up with no modifications. Looks like a better way to go than using several washers as spacers. The CalVin does have a tendency to lean over a little to far .

DanNC's final map was DannyP-Mod12.bin He went through a number of revisions. I am not familiar with CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21. Please tell me what you know about them and send them to me if possible. Valves are set to .15 and .2 Exhaust and crossover are stock. Intake has airbox removed but still utilizes the velocity stacks that went from the throttle bodies into the airbox with UNI filters on them. TPS is at .157V base setting Trim is at +3

45+ MPG US gallons Temps were 30-31C

We tried a couple of different maps on Sunday. Cali1100DZ_06.bin ran rough, idle was lower and it stumbled down the road for 100 meters and my friend turned around and came back. We tried another map, CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin. I don't recall where I got this map from. It worked OK at higher RPMs but was not good down at lower RPMs. I just reloaded the Don_VolkeroSpecial_05 and the bike was back to running very good. The only complaint he has with this map was an occasional stumble at low RPMs like 1500 or so. Just occasional, not consistant. Fuel economy with this map is around 45+.

I was wondering if I was the one you were referring to when you said it did not work so well in another Vintage? I don't think those maps were given a fair evaluation at that time. I was trying the maps on a friends Vintage that used to be mine and it was running decent but not perfect with a map from a V11 sport. The butterfly stop screw on the throttle body with the TPS still had the yellow paint on it so we did not check or reset it assuming it is fine from the factory. It turns out it was off when we checked it last week. The base setting was 128mV rather than 157mV. So when tuned properly with the right TPS setting the new maps work pretty good.

I'm sure he will be willing to do so. He lives about 75 miles away but will be coming this way on Saturday. Fortunately a map flash only takes a few minutes. It was the initial tune up that took a fair bit of time.

Hi Jan, I somehow overlooked that map while I was searching my computer for a map to load on the Calvin. I will probably see my friend again this Saturday. If so I will try the CALI1100DZ_06.bin. But he is happy now. I think it is set to +3 on the CO trim but I will check again. He was riding it the last couple of days in 30C humid weather. He is running US grade super 93 octane which I think is equivalent to Euro 98.