antmanbee

Jan, I loaded the DonVolkeroSpecial_05.bin The new owner is now quite pleased with the bike. He says it starts easy, idles smooth and pulls strong. He can not hear any pinging. I should get some feedback on MPG in a day or two. He will also check the plugs. The bike has stock exhaust but is running UNI pods on the stock velocity stacks the used to go into the airbox. What changes were made between the DonVolkero_05 and the "Cali1100DZ_06.bin"?

Jan, The Calvin that belonged to me that then went to a friend and then now to another friend has now been brought back to me for a complete tune up. I did the valve adjust and a TPS set to 157mV and idle and 3K rpm balance along with cleaning the throttle body bores and butterflies. I have loaded the Beard map you sent me last summer and the new owner is now riding it 80 miles back home. He rode it around the block a few times and seems happy so far, but I will report back with his feedback later this evening after more extensive testing.

Even with a new/used engine, I would advise replacing the oil cooler and possibly the hoses because they will be full of debris and difficult to flush. Hard to be confident that they are completely clean.

My understanding is a bike with the O2 sensor uses a 15RC ECU which is pin compatible with the 15M.

footgoose, Nice of you to notice! Many Thanks, it's a good runner. This is becoming my favorite Guzzi. I just need to possibly drill the top triple clamp to take some handle bars so I can sit a bit more upright and spend more time in the saddle. My Griso is a close second.

I am using Meinolf's #90 map for the 15M V11 sport. I think that is his most recent. This is the info he sent along with the map... The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is: - TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed - Both bypass screws completely closed - CO trim set to 0 - Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws - Running sync as usual Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging. Attachments area

I have the M4 cans that are straight through and a bit on the loud side and what I think is a Stucchi crossover. It looks like the one in the picture. I run pod filters using the stock intake stacks. I compromised and have set my valves set to Raceco specs at .2 and .25mm but I was suggested by Meinolf to use .3mm for both IN & EX. My bike runs fine now, no stumble or hiccups or flat spots or hesitation. My fuel mileage averages about 37-38mpg which I think is a little low. All my other 1100 Guzzis get 41 to 45 depending on which bike. The V11 sport is the least efficient and it is the lightest. I may play around with the CO trim. I have it set to 0 as Meinolf recommended.

I also run the Meinolf map in my V11. It transformed the bike for me. Runs great under all conditions.

I run the Meinolf map in my V11 and it is great. Night and day difference. His map is for the 15M ECU. You just need the proper cables and a laptop with the writer program. It only takes a minute to flash the new map on. Back up your old one first. That takes about 10-15 minutes. Adjust valves, reset the TPS to 157mv and balance the throttle bodies and you will have a great running V11.

I will wait impatiently Sorry to hear of your accident and healing issues. It is a shame to have to let that bike go, it's a beauty. Some more really intensive physical therapy won't bring you back enough to be competent and enjoy it? I am considering getting a top triple clamp that has bar mounts or drilling mine so I can get a bit more upright position with higher and pulled back bars. Also there are lowering pegs available too.

If you would be willing to sell some of the spares separately, I would possibly be interested in the HB side racks. Thanks

I understand that it is a complex interaction of many variables. What we basically do is balance throttle bodies to try and compensate for most of the variables and in some cases match injectors. Of course we also try and make everything as close to the same as possible between the 2 sides, like valve adjust, compression (if it is off by more than a little), timing, etc. We are averaging all these variables out with how much air each side is sucking in by the TB balance. To achieve an even better possible averaging of these variables in addition to the TB balance I was wondering if temperature equalization might achieve this? Foe example, years ago on my earlier tonti bikes with distributors I would use dwell to set the points and not by gap. I would match the dwell for each side and not worry what the points were and I could achieve a better, smoother running motor. The point gaps were usually not that close. By using dwell, this gave me the exact same duration of points being open and closed. I'm just thinking of possible alternate ways to compensate for the mechanical variables that there is no easy inexpensive way to make the same between the 2 cylinders.

Maybe I should start a thread about this, but most every bike I have tested with a thermometer at where the pipes come out of the head have a temperature differential. I have never checked the injector output on any bikes to see if they are the same, and I am pretty sure there is some variance. My idea was to use the fuel offset table in the ECU map (via Tunerpro) to increase or decrease the fuel across the board by a percent or two or however much is necessary to match the temperature of the exhaust at the header pipe. So essentially you would be matching the fuel output of the injectors by reading the temperature. Or if you measured the flow volume using a 9V battery hooked for a minute and calculated the percentage difference you could alter it by that difference in the offset fuel map.

That is correct. I found that when searching for cross reference and some of the parts stated the specifications.

Check for spark. You can get a bit of swirling around because the pressure regulator is inside the tank. Are the plugs dry? If the plugs are dry and no spark, it could be the timing phase sensor.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ckp-cmp-sensor-diesel-engine-camshaft_62091864088.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.13.6f677b1dEeDJKN Maybe throw in an order of these too.

I'd take 4 or 5 if someone is going to order.

Phil, and Pete It's my pleasure to help you guys out. My appreciation goes to you and the many others on this forum who go out of their way often to help and share their expertise.

Almost near the bottom of this page is some more info on the P8 CO adjustment. The whole page is a good how-to for TPS and throttle body set up. Use the Meinolf setting of .157 for the TPS instead of bradthebikeboys .150V. http://bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/2012/10/throttle-position-sensor-setting_21.html

These are the instructions for the CO trim pot. I have read different things about the pot. Some say you can damage it by rotating too far others not. If you hook up Guzzidiag it will tell you if you are at zero or plus or minus. I adjusted mine by going half way between the far left and right and then later when I hooked up Guzzidiag I was almost perfect. But you can just get it close and adjust a little bit one way or the other by how the bike runs.

It should be the same.

They are referring to a 15M ECU. You have a P8 ECU and the CO is set by inserting a small screwdriver in a hole in your ECU and adjusting richer or leaner.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=scantwin.scanm16 This app uses an android phone through a mini usb cable rather than a bluetooth adapter. It works for a 15M, 15RC and a 16M. If you could get the readings from the ECU like this app and then add a GPS speedo and large compass with the ability to make a large easy to read display on a phone, this could replace the gauge cluster completely. It would be even better. it would have, speedo tach temp compass clock volts

http://christian.giupponi.free.fr/Android/SCANM5X.HTM This is something similar to what you are talking about? Different ECU though.