antmanbee

Pete, Check your PM's

I would PM him. He has said he would share his maps. Make sure to give him feedback on your experiences.

I followed his instructions and closed both air screws. I have sock air filters still utilizing the stock intake tubes and an M4 exhaust which is free flow and a crossover pipe. Also check your valve clearance. It is best to follow the tune up guide here.

This is what Meinolf recommended to me when he sent me the map. Attached the latest BIN for the V11 with 15M. My setup includes bell-shaped air inlet ducts with snorkels removed, K&N filter, TI cans and revised throttle butterfly valves and throttle shafts. The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is: - TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed - Both bypass screws completely closed - CO trim set to 0 - Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws - Running sync as usual Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging. I'd appreciate your feedback on the results. Cheers Meinolf

I would recommend trying Meinolf's V11 map for the 15M ECU. It made mine run much better than the stock map. I backed up my original map but it is on a different computer that I can get to later if the map that docc linked is not what you want.

I'm not worried about the money either. I just need to know where the arse end of nowhere is?

It's $89.56 USD for the 4 units. Shipping will be somewhere between $14.25 if the package is 8 ounces, shipped First-Class Package International Service. There might be a small insurance charge too. If it weighs a pound it would be $23.50. For priority mail it would be $37.50 with a 6-10 day delivery. It does not give a time estimate for first-class shipping. I will order them when I get home from work today after I have heard back from you. I will PM you my info later today also. I'll ship however you want. If you know a better way, let me know. How do the Chinese ship all that stuff with free shipping? I buy stuff all the time that doesn't cost much and probably is larger and heavier than these 4 cables and it ships free.

I'll volunteer to buy and ship it to you guys.

Instructions quoted from Meinolf, "The base setup, and that's quite important to follow to get the best results, is: - TPS set to 157mV with all mechanical connectors removed and throttle completely closed - Both bypass screws completely closed - CO trim set to 0 - Idle sync with both (if so required) throttle stop screws - Running sync as usual Target Lambda in my BIN is 0.88 at every breakpoint I can measure at during road driving & logging." I did about 85 miles today with a new map by Meinolf and the bike runs great! All tune up specs are set to his recommendations. It was in the low to mid eighties out and the bike did cough a couple of times but it was random and very infrequent. If I was trying to cruise at about 2500 to 3000 RPM, that's when it coughed sometimes. But I am calling it cured, because the bike ran fine under all throttle conditions. I could roll on in top gear from about 45 mph to 90 with no issue (approx 2000 to 5000 RPM). I don't normally keep it at that low of RPM but I was testing in many different conditions. Before it had persistent coughs in the lower RPM range under light throttle. No discernible pinging on USA mid grade 89 octane gas. Power was strong. Still more vibration than I would expect but not terrible, just more than my 1100 FI Tonti's.

Read from post #39 on to see my adventures in spine chamber flushing. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20627&page=3 I finally got my clean with at least a dozen flushes. I also used a little swab of cloth clipped onto curved hemostats to clean the lowest point of the breather chamber through the hole just below where the banjo bolt is. I would do this after the first couple of flushes. I used gasoline for both the tank and hose. On the hose I removed it completely from the bike and poured gas in there and rocked it back and forth with my fingers over the ends. For the tank I used the top hose that goes from the chamber to the airbox and attached ti to the lower hole and filled up the chamber with gas and held the hose up high so fuel would not run out, then I lowered the hose and dumped it into a container.

It had a Power Commander on it but I took it off before I even attempted to start it. I guess I could plug it back in and see what happens. I would prefer to correct it by a new map or altering it in Tunerpro and not use a intermediary device. Back in the day before Guzzidiag and Tunerpro there was not much choice but to use a Power Commander. I am not having a problem with pinging. The issue I am most concerned with now is the vibrations. I feel I will be able to sort out the fueling problems, although reading through the currently running thread by not-fishing and his coughing issues and many attempts to resolve is discouraging.

Well after about 300 miles this past weekend split between two days I have some observations. I have been getting the dreaded coughing in the intake at lower RPMs (around 3000) under light throttle. It was much worse the second day when it was quite hot out, about 90F. I had reset the CO trim to 0 before the rides. All balanced perfectly at idle and 3500. I may need to try a different map or tweak the original. mg77, what was changed in your map to correct your issues? I have attache a pic of my crossover. I think it's a stucchi. I run pods and M4 pipes. My plugs look fine. My gas mileage was about 40mpg. My other issue is vibration. I get a buzziness in the bars. My other Tonti bikes are much smoother. This bike has the original flywheel/clutch assembly from the old engine on a new to me engine, but all the marks are lined up on assembly. I was concerned about this as I was unsure how these engines are balanced at the factory. Are they balanced with the flywheel attached or only the crank and the other associated rotating mass, rods, pistons, etc. I know many here install other flywheels and don't seem to have issues. What else to look for?

I have done a complete tune. Set to meinhofs .157V and valves adjusted to raceco specs air bleeds all the way in and throttle bodies balanced at idle and 3000RPM. BPR6ES plugs. CO trim at -10 but I am going to set to 0 tomorrow morning before my ride. Bike starts and runs fine. Sounds awesome. I don't know if it pings or not yet as I have not ridden it much yet. I will find out tomorrow. I was just curious what others experience was with their bikes. I am just looking to get a general idea for the V11. It seems to vary considerably from model to model as to what octane it likes. I see no reason to use premium if it not needed. I have M4 pipes and foam filters with stock intake tubes and no air box. (See photo)

I am taking out the V11 tomorrow for it's first real ride, probably about 150 miles or so. I have super unleaded with up to 10% ethanol in the tank now. The bike has the stock map. On my Jackal I can run regular and I get no pinging under any conditions with a stock map. Super is a waste on this bike. On my Cal Vin with the dual plug heads I run a v11 map with timing retarded a bit and I get pinging, but not too bad if I run super. On my Breva 750 regular gas works pretty good but I can make it ping if I get on it at too low of RPMs. What fuel works best for you on your V11's and are you running stock maps or...? I know I can do a bit of trial and error and figure it out but I am curious as to what works for others.

On my Tonti FI bikes (I assume the V11 would be similar but with reversed sides) after I set the TPS at 157mV, I turn in the set screw on the TPS side body until it is about 500mV + or - and have the airbleed screws in all the way on both sides with the connecting rod disconnected. I then do idle balance with the set screws on both bodies and then reconnect the rod and then do a balance at about 3000RPM. It is possible that you have leaky shafts and seals too or differences in compression. It seems best to me to balance at idle with the set screws. The balance may compensate for some of the wear irregularities.

I am just getting acquainted with my V11 (not a Scura) but it has the M4 pipes and they sound fantastic. The sound is reminiscent of my long gone Duc 900 with Conti pipes. I can tell I am going to love this bike.

After having the breather chamber plugged and the sump plugged for only about 20 miles of running, I checked the chamber and there was quite a bit of oil in there. I am guessing at least a few tablespoons worth. So I put the return hose back on the bike. I think too much oil goes through there for it to function safely without the return. Hose and chamber were flushed countless times till no debris came out.

Well I took it out today for about 15-20 minutes and it started out a bit hard shifting but not as bad as the maiden voyage for the 2 laps around the block the other day. It got progressively better to the point of perfect just by riding and getting it warmed up. My theory is that the old oil was a little gummy and even though I drained and changed it, there was still probably some sticky oil higher up on the selector plate components. With a bit of warm gear oil splashing about everything loosened up. Next on my agenda is a good tune. My Saturday morning task. Once again thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. One observation is that the noise when the clutch is pulled in seems a bit louder than my Jackal or Calvin. Just wondering why. Possibly my imagination.

What part of Thailand are you in?

One thing to keep in mind is that this bike sat for a decade at least. Always stored inside. I had talked to the original owner and I am pretty sure that there was no shifting issues when the engine self destructed. Only 5800mi on the bike. The clutch disks measured to new specs. I changed the gear oil last weekend before I started up the bike for the first time. The old oil looked clean with no moisture. I put in GL5 80W-90 dino. I did drain the trans when it was cold. The level is about half way up on the window. I have not as yet got the bike completely warmed up as I only road it for less than 5 minutes, just around the block twice. Probably less than a mile. I am thinking maybe something like SteveS mentioned could be the issue, but due to selector plate just being a little gummed up after sitting for so long. This evening I will take it out again for at least 15 minutes to get it thoroughly warmed up and see what happens. Maybe switching to that miracle pink oil I keep hearing about will magically fix it.

If I shorten the connector shaft it will make it more likely for the shifter to hit the pork chop. If I move the arm on the trans one tooth clockwise first then I could shorten the connector shaft and slightly lift the shifter arm so it would not contact the pork chop.

Here is a picture of the shifter. Looks pretty parallel to me. There is a little nick in the paint on the pork chop, but if that was the problem wouldn't that only affect down shifting and first gear? I have a problem up shifting except for second.

The bike shifts fine from 1st to 2nd and back to first. It does not want to shift to third unless I push the shifter back down a ways and then up shift into third. If i push it down a ways again I can get it into 4th. I didn't try any higher gears. It down shifts ok. I have in my possession one of scuds springs. Will this resolve my problem? I thought I had read that if the spring breaks you will just be stuck in whatever gear you happened to be in when it broke. So is this a different issue or a variation of the broken spring problem? I am attaching a photo of the bike just because I am excited to have it at least somewhat on the road. My engine swap was a success and the clutch feels fine too. It sounds great with those pipes and starts right up and runs smooth.

I run that part number and I get a V11 tail light. Hmmm, docc, you and Andy have a special parts book in Tennessee. I was all about ready to order some.