antmanbee

Got the engine out today and I am assessing the condition of everything and making a list of what I need. I emptied the oil cooler into some paper towels to look for debris and it did not appear to have any but it is difficult to tell as it was an oily mess. I will be flushing it thoroughly many times with gas and blowing it out after each flush and straining it to see if there is any debris. I rotated the subframe forward and the engine cleared fine. I removed the clutch assembly and the flywheel to transfer to the replacement engine. To keep the crank/flywheel from turning I put a short 2x4 between the crank and the block as I had the pan off already, so no fabrication of a special tool needed.

footgoose, Good information. I was wondering about clearance of the engine. I guess it would not drop down low enough on your jack to get it out so you had to hoist up the rear. I have chocked the front and attached straps to the rear to stabilize but was not sure about clearance. I have not figured out my system for a jack yet but one idea I was thinking something similar to your set up but I was thinking a piece of plywood bolted to my floor jack. I was also thinking about a scissor platform jack or a motorcycle platform jack.

So with the UBS bolts and Teflon sealer on the threads it is sufficiently sealed? No sealing washer is necessary? It looks like a not too complicated job to drop the engine and I am hoping I don't get stuck with needing some unobtainable item that I can't get during my window of opportunity to fix this thing over the holidays. Like flywheel bolts, special sealers, gaskets etc. Any other recommended thread sealer alternatives besides the liquid Teflon? Is there a reason to be suspicious of the pressure plate springs? I plan on inspecting the flywheel clutch assembly thoroughly but I don't anticipate needing anything with only 5800 miles on it. Is this the clutch rod seal that is being referred to? Is the seal 8mm ID x 16mm OD x 7mm thick? http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_225&products_id=2331&zenid=a1ea9670daad9e77aa1ccc4452a9440f

gstallons, I don't think I will remove and replace the the gasket and seal on the rear main crankshaft bearing. Do you have a link to the USB bolts that you recommend?

Thanks Docc, As far as I know it has the steel twin plate, although I have not yet inspected it. The Sport Nakeds were not supposed to have the aluminum flywheel. I guess I will do the 2 bottom rear bearing housing bolts, the epoxy and the breather tube gasket and maybe the clutch actuating rod seal. Any thoughts about the oil cooler?

I thought I would add a picture of inside the back of the replacement engine.

I purchased this low mileage 2003 bike with a blown engine back in May and got a good V11 engine during the summer. I am finally getting around to doing the swap. I have crabbed Tontis several times but I am new to spines. From reading some old threads it looks like dropping only the engine out the front will probably be my course of action. I have chocked the front wheel and will attach some straps from the ceiling beams to the rear to stabilize it. In other old threads there were pictures of the front wheel off during engine removal. Will this be necessary? With only 5800 miles on the bike I don't anticipate needing to replace and clutch parts. I will be using the original flywheel also. Do the flywheel bolts need to be replaced or can they be reused? Any tips on R&R the engine? Most importantly, since there was a lot of metal debris in the old engine due to the failed rod bearings, I was planning on flushing the oil cooler and lines thoroughly but will this be enough? I don't know if any metal debris got in there but if it did will a thorough cleaning get it all out? Any suggestions on additional things to do while the engine is out? Overall the bike looks in excellent shape but has not been run for a decade. I got new tires waiting to be put on after its running. Anything you would replace or always do when the engine comes out no matter how low of miles or how good it looks? Thanks

I recommend a Shindengen which is a high quality Japanese MOSFET regulator. I replaced the failed one on my CalVin with this. They have more tightly regulated voltage and will not over volt. Watch out for fakes. I initially bought a fake off of Amazon. https://www.roadstercycle.com/ https://motoelectrix.com/products/shindengen-mosfet-fh012aa-regulator-rectifier-kit

If the plugs look fine then it is not losing spark on one or both cylinders unless it is also losing fuel at the same time. Investigate the circuits that go from the battery to the side stand switch and relay and then to the ignition switch and kill switch. As per kiwi-roy, put a bulb wired from Fuse 8 to ground and see if the bulb stays lit when the engine cuts out. If it stays lit then the side stand switch and relay and ignition switch and kill switch are good. If it flickers then one of those components are faulty. The timing sensor near the timing cover on the front left of the engine could be going bad. if it is cutting in and out you will lose both spark and fuel simultaneously.

From my research it looks like the rods are the same. I would think the rest is all valid. The main issue with swapping motors (if you are not concerned with the power difference) is the rear mounts on the lower engine case. Later v11's have a lower sub frame that attaches to the engine block towards the back in the area of the lower bell housing and a EV1100/Jackal engine do not have this mount cast into the block. An earlier v11 sport engine also does not have this mount. The rear engine mount on the earlier ones is up top with a plate attached to the spine frame and the top 2 bell housing bolts.

I am getting a used 03 v11 sport motor to replace it with. I sure hope to have it going by September but unsure if I have available time off from work.

Mostly I just plan on riding it. I don't think it is appreciating in value yet, it may, and I will keep the original engine so that if the bike starts to appreciate like an early Tonti Lemans or V7 sport I can restore it with matching numbers. Right now I just want to get it on the road fairly quickly and without dropping a boat load of money in it. The rest of the bike looks near perfect.

That is a good question. The rod bearings are completely disintegrated and there is lots of debris in the pan. I will have to completely disassemble everything on the engine and carefully inspect. The crank is probably too damaged to take a regrind and would need to be welded up and then reground. The rods are probably toast and used replacements would need to be sourced. The oil pump? Who knows what else.

I was thinking I might even leave the EV oil sump on with the oil pickup more to the rear and do away with the oil cooler. It is not needed on the EV or Jackal. The only thing I am concerned about with that is the kick stand. The kick stand bracket has a small bolt that attaches to the side of the intermediary oil pan and may reinforce the stand bracket. I don't want the bracket to crack or bend.

I keep going to the garage and staring at the Jackal motor and then at the V11 and it sure looks the same minus the front timing cover and oil pan. With those removed it looks like they are interchangeable. Even the compression ratio is the same. The horse power specs are different so something has to be different. The V11 HP spec is at 7800RPM and the EV1100 is at 6400RPM. I don't care about the power too much, I just want a good running engine.

I would like to know if anyone here has any experience with using a EV 1100 motor in the V11 sport. My V11 engine is blown. Has a bad crank and rods and lots of debris in the pan. From my research it looks like the block, bearings, crank, rods, flywheel and clutch are the same. The pan assembly would need to be retained as well as the front timing cover, but the rest of the engine looks like it should bolt right in. What are the other differences of these two motors and what other obstacles are there that I may be overlooking? I am trying to come up with a plan as to what to do. Thanks