Purloined

Thanks, Weegie, very helpful. The assembly was previously ty-wrapped behind the headlight bucket. With a jumper, I think I can incorporate everything inside the headlight shell, there's plenty of space. The blinkers are operational for brief periods, so I don't think too much heat and the LED headlight bulb does not give off much. I did replace the flasher relay with an electronic unit a when I first got the bike which solved the rapid flash problem. Don't know if the addition of the resistors by the PO was to curtail the 4-way flash affliction, but they were obviously okay with the rapid flashing which rendered them ineffectual. I appreciate your time and patience in responding.

As was pointed out, I don't know if the module that was integrated into the turn signal circuit was resistor or diode or something else. It is painted white on one end, wires toggle out of the other end with jumpers coming off (it is covered in shrink wrap). Retaining it in the circuit (there are identical modules for both the R/L turn signals) results in the turn signals flashing properly. Modifying the flash indicator in the instrument module in a circumscribed space sounds daunting. Is there a reason not to retain this setup after I replace the turn signal bulbs (LED > LED)?

Link to the thread: I usually encounter the Donnie Darko rabbit or Brer rabbit in the rabbit hole as opposed to the more cuddly rabbit brother from my childhood; consequent aversion.

The 'search' is an hours long journey down the rabbit hole, but after posting I came across thread about the instrument indicator being the culprit. The resistors in the loop eliminate the problem. Is there any reason not to re-integrate them

I've been sorting out various issues with a 2000 V11 Sport that I've had for about 2 1/2 years. A previous owner had replaced the OEM turn signals with a terrible set of LEDs. When I got the bike they flashed erratically and I replaced the relay with a proper LED unit and the flash rate returned to normal. Now I'm replacing the insipid aftermarket LEDs with brighter units. I began disassembling the old wiring and there are what appear to be resistors wired inline on the front turn signal wiring, one for each side. My guess is that these were installed in the day to provide a better flash rate when the LEDs were swapped, even though they flashed rapidly until I replaced the relay. Turn signals flash at a proper rate with the resistors removed. However, without them, engaging either L/R circuit makes the unused flasher flash at a slightly diminished brightness, both front and rear. So 4way flashers without the resistors. Were resistors ever part of the turn signal assembly? They don't look OEM to me. My guess is that somewhere in the labyrinth the L/R circuits are making contact. Maybe the resistors prevent the unintended signal from flashing. I could continue blithely and re-use the resistors, but the bike already has a battery drain somewhere and it doesn't seem wise to ignore this issue. Has anyone had this problem? Or point to a location on the bike/likely source of this problem? Switch? Plenty of walls already are beckoning my feeble head to bang against them. I figure I can either pad them, or aspire to life in one room; unsexy options. Any advice with the exception of handfuls of aspirin appreciated.

I can't tell if the exhaust is stainless or aluminum. The veneer of the 'carbon fiber' was a thin, plastic, adhesive. It peeled off pretty easily. There were two holes under the cf skin that I assume were for a riveted logo of some sort. I threaded them and plugged them with stainless steel button head fasteners. I like them much better with the cf stripped off. It wasn't aging well.

Makes sense, docc. They are 'straight through' pipes. Like telescopes without lenses. I can see from one end to the other (sans magnification). They're throaty, but not obnoxious. My brother in California says that the type of pipe is not legal in his state. My 2000 V11 had these pipes on it when I bought it. I didn't know if they were stock or aftermarket. From what you're describing, they're obviously add-ons. They sound better than the exhaust I bought from 4Corsa. And half the weight as well. The cf is def a veneer. I peeled it off the old pipes; tapped and plugged the two holes that must have been meant for attaching a logo with ss screws. More better.

Hi, 4Corsa. I bought your old exhaust. I weighed them. They were 10.2 pounds each. I don't know what the exhaust on my 2000 'Greenie' is called, cylindrical cans wrapped in 'carbon fiber' adhesive, but they are 5.2 pounds each.

Yeah, yeah. Tons of wisdom about tectonics. Of course I got in line and learned a lot. And I of course bookmarked in order to later educate myself when ignored problems have their inevitable tantrum. Your Flickr page? Great photos, great photo album. A lesson in anatomy. the skeletal system, (the digestive tract), and a lens for once welcomed beneath a skirt. A good gallery of images; a lot of work to document and post and a hearty hurrah that you did.

A well written obituary printed in The New York Times; It describes a body pummeled in numerous crashes over the course of his career and the spirit and humility and sense of humor he embodied. The concluding paragraphs: Moss, the ultimate pro, once observed that there are no professionals at dying — although he had practiced. He was sure he was “a goner” after his steering column snapped at over 160 m.p.h. in a race in Monza, Italy, in 1958. As he staggered away from the wreckage, he thought, “Well, if this is hell, it’s not very hot, or if it’s heaven, why is it so dusty?” https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/12/obituaries/stirling-moss-dead.html

Oy. Thanks for all the ink spilled here on my behalf. I swapped relays and the bike started without protest. And the weather here in New Haven is sufficiently obliging at the beginning of February (thank you ExxonMobil) that I managed to take it for a ride around town dressed in a long sleeve tee shirt. This forum has helped shepherd me through numerous problems and I'm grateful for the time and interest on everyone's part.

I had previously determined that the plugs were firing. I adjusted the valves a few hundred miles before this problem had begun. The fuel pump comes on as it should when I switch on the ignition. To be clear, the pic is the sensor in question? Fotoguzzi says it is a camshaft sensor, not a crank (assume 'crank' refers to crankshaft) sensor, which would make sense given its location. Testing for signal would involve removing it from the engine and accessing electrical signal from where it fastens to the block? Or the signal would be tested upstream? In the case of this sensor: 'air gap'? Does it need adjustment when installed as opposed to being fastened in its socket? I may have to defer to someone more versed in this diagnosis. It is a 550 pound dead weight at this point and will be difficult to transport the hour and a half to Hamlin's in Bethel. It would be cool if I could blunder onto the source of the problem without resorting to the age-old trick of tossing a bowl of pesto&pasta into the back of the van for a trip to the doctor's office and hoping if falls for it Thanks all. .

A cohort of brains cells on a Saturday night are on holiday, they send me greetings from the festive, secret location where they're on hiatus; it's a disappointing abrogation of responsibility. And they will be scolded on their return. But meanwhile, I'm relegated to fractional cognitive skills in their absence. Are there two components which might be culprits? I see a device on the left side of the engine block, a sending unit scrutinizing the position of the crankshaft from what I've read. I assume in dialog with the spark and injection services. The symptoms of a failed unit which are described seem consistent with my bike's malady. But a bad relay also potentially malfunctioning? Or did I misunderstand? This place is a damned encyclopedia; with way better humor. Pretty good for a Saturday night's entertainment. The brain cells will be pouting about all they missed when they return. As far as I'm concerned, they can be pouty from inside the doghouse where they'll be quarantined until they apologize for their jail break. There are rules in this funhouse.

My 2000 V11 stopped running at the beginning of the winter and I wondered if anyone might offer an opinion. There have been times when it would just quit at idle, when fully warmed up and I was riding it. Don't know if this is related to the current problem or not. It became erratic at some point, stuttering on throttle, then it would be fine. Quickly got worse to the point where it was difficult to restart. Step three: it would idle, but if I gave it any throttle it would start to stumble, and this behavior was abrupt, i.e. it was not as though I could gently induce the rpms higher, it would just cut out when I opened the throttle. Step four: would not start at all. The plugs are sparking (plugs and wires and air filter are new.) I don't smell fuel in the exhaust at all. I was describing this to an auto mechanic friend who's not familiar with the the bike, but to him the symptoms were similar to a bad ignition module in automobiles. I know this is a pretty sketchy description, but the on/off nature sounds to me like a failure of a gizmo about which I know nothing. And please forgive me for the pain anyone experiences from eye-rolling after reading this. Any advice is appreciated

I installed several new grounds, including one from the rectifier where I abandoned the old ground that was fastened to it and cleaned up stuff as best I could and reassembled everything. The bike seems to start more easily and run much better and more smoothly. I put a meter on the battery and all seems normal, so no drain. Hopefully a new normal of normal Moto Guzzi electrical bliss rules from now on. Just kidding, but thanks to all who had the patience to sift through my many onerous descriptions without throwing up your hands. The advice was invaluable.

I've been sifting through the accumulated details that are cited in these posts in order to try to understand the arcane circulatory system (if in fact a 'system'? Maybe 'battle' is a better descriptor.) that sparks and rumbles in the wires of these bikes. Akin to certain subjects in school where I was terrified of being called on to mainline my thorough ignorance into the ears of my classmates. Never mind the teacher. I do know that electricity hurts when your cross two poles. I learned that at age seven when I joined the two sides of an outlet in our ancient house. I'll bet the scorch mark is still there. Beyond that, I give my deficiencies a wide berth as I'm sure no good will come from it. But I've gleaned a lot from the anecdotes everyone here has shared about their experiences with similar problems and I'm grateful for the time devoted; advice offered. I have a couple of patient, electrically inclined friends who've offered to be chaperones in order to ward off the mushroom cloud I know I can generate in the dark recesses of a Moto Guzzi's electrical labyrinth. And I think I can rectify, or a least examine, a lot of the innate problems that have been described in bits and pieces with all your help. And after all this fatuous hubris-building, I think I should get me a Tesla, a few tweaks and I know it will be a screaming fast monster. What is the secret code? Plus and minus are cantankerous bedfellows. Off I go. Thanks again, all, Marcus

Marty NZ, are you thinking that it is possible for the voltage regulator itself to be draining the battery while the key is out of the ignition? I don't believe there is an innate problem with the charging system of the motorcycle. All things being said, it runs/charges fine. But if left unridden, the battery has been draining. I have been reading on this forum posts about the importance of a proper wire to ground for the regulator. The bad wire that came out of the ECU harness under the seat is still in the harness going to ??. Some have suggested it might be from the regulator to ECU fastening bolt/ground. I should make sure the regualtor has a good and proper ground. And maybe add one. Still, battery drain while the bike is off is the problem.

Y'all are in luck, back to me and the subject of my Moto. Ahem. . . I cleaned up the wires from the harness that plugs into the ECU, cleaned all the terminals on both battery poles including the ground connection on the back of the transmission case. I abandoned the crisp wire that came from the ECU harness and attached a new ground wire from the mounting bolt on the ECU to a second fastener on the back of the transmission. There are two other ground wires re-attached to the ECU bolt coming from the ECU harness as before. Bike starts up, runs fine, but it has a battery drain that started when I had the battery replaced a few months ago. I took the battery out and had it tested and the shop said it was okay. It had been sitting for two days at this point, I don't remember how long it took to run flat before, I think it may have taken longer than two days. Before starting it I disconnected the negative leads and, key out, put a meter between the negative terminal and the leads and there was a draw of 22.XX ma on the meter. When I removed the 30 amp fuse the draw dropped substantially. This seems to indicate there is a draw on that circuit? Does anyone have any advice about a possible cause? The 'abandoned' crisp wire that came out of the ECU harness goes back to wherever it originated, some here have suggested it goes to the voltage regulator, I did not trace it. This battery was not draining when on the old battery. Manufacture date of my bike is January 2000. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Yeah, the drawing was elucidating, far better than what I have. But I was referring to your lucid explanation.

Wow, Kiwi_Roy, clearly and succinctly stated. Inroads into my puny brain, so thank you for schooling me. Much easier to conceptualize. I had a print/copy of the wiring diagram, it was fuzzy, written in Italian in 4pt type, printed in black and white and I believe topped with marinara sauce for good measure; Tolstoy translated into Swahili for my befuddlement, in other words. Thx.

Duly admonished. I'll scrutinize the condition of the ground connections on the gearbox and elsewhere. So you're saying that the crispy wire grounds the ECU and leads back to either the regulator or the lighting circuits? To bypass the crispy wire I can ground the terminal on top of the ECU to a proper ground site and leave the burned wire in the harness? It appears that the harness with the burned wire turns towards the rear of the bike. Thanks to you and all who've offered help and advice.

I looked at the posts that were cited. Thanks for pointing them out. It sounds as though something on the order of what was described is what had previously happened on my bike. There appears to be damage to one ground wire only. It is a light gauge wire that comes out of the harness that plugs into the ECU. You can see the connection to the ECU in the lower left hand corner of the photo. There are three ground wires ganged together in this gaggle coming from the larger harness. It was wrapped in electrical tape by the previous owner. Two of these ground wires which had been wrapped by electrical tape were fine. One came from a trio of wires, brown/black/white that were in the harness wrapped as a group, one came off the plug scan tool receptacle (which you can see in the top/middle of the pic), The third wire is toast, the insulation was destroyed as far down as I peeled back the main wrap around the harness, it was horrifying to discover. No other wire seemed to be affected even though they were in proximity. Is the ground connection to the top of the ECU a normal setup? Would the third (burned insulation) wire be a ground from the ECU to ground? Most of the strands on the burned wire were detached, just a couple of strands left, but there did not seem to be any problem with the function of the bike. Once I started to un-wrap the electrical tape, the burned wire disintegrated. Does this burned wire come from somewhere else? If so would anyone speculate where? Does it provide a ground from the head of the bolt on the ECU and therefore I could substitute an independent wire from the ECU bolt to a proper ground as has been suggested? I was an arguably normal person prior to stumbling on this, now my olfactory imagines wires of every stripe are smoldering everywhere. Paranoia sucks.

The more shrink tape I pulled off the harness to inspect the condition of the fried wire, the more it looked the same. The entire length of the wire is fubar judging by everything I've seen so far. I'm trying to figure where it comes from. I don't know if that is a question that is easy to figure out. And it seems likely that the ground fastened to the ECU (if that is what it is) was not a stock setup. I started out this afternoon doing a valve adjustment and spark plug replacement, and then, because I'd un-bolted and raised the tank up a bit in order to access the bolts holding the valve covers and the fact that it was 100° in New Haven, the tank expanded and I had to unbolt the seat in order to get it back in place and I therefore noticed a little nonsense in the wiring under the seat. I was putting it back together and about to fire it and cool off on a hot day and make sure everything was in order and now it's Vesuvius and forlorn in the garage, for now.

The very pregnant (baby the next day; pdQ, btw.) woman who deftly guided the bumper of her Ford into my left leg has conferred on me the gang of polite barking dogs that gots her back, so to speak. It commences and off you go. But I doubt rules of engagement would be terribly different if it were my own insurer. A Canadian friend of mine explained what they do. Outcomes thought-through and simple and seemingly fair. The lawyer thing here is a tragic encouragement. I did kick FoMoCo in small claims court years ago over the paint on my F-150. Years after the statute had expired. It was delicious to me that the icky corporate lawyer they sent from Boston looked pretty bad by the time he got back to HQ. So, tenacity. As far as here and now goes, the motorcycle was fine in the end, the girl's bullying bumper pushed us to the ground. The damage was minor but $$. They took care of it, a nasty game they played at first. But they took stock and did the right thing. The rest of this stuff I hate having to address, but a certain dispassion is necessary in order not to think that you're awash in the wake of someone's stupidity. I appreciate everyone who has commented and offered advice on this thread. Lots of funny, lots of clever, people. After much plodding through the mountains published here, it is obviously so.