Kuni0

She actually never went down on the right side. The valve covers were swapped and I never bothered to put them back on the 'correct' side. She's gone down twice on the left. First time, someone changed lanes into me. I tried to 'eject' from the bike but my left foot got caught by the exhaust and the bike ended up dragging me about 100ft before it came to a stop at a curb. Amazingly, I didn't have any injuries at all. That prompted to paint job and other additions like the staintune pipes since the carbon fiber ones I had got damaged. Second time someone cut into my lane turning left. It was wet that day and I happened to be braking over a painted section. It was minor enough that I didn't bother to fix it with all the other projects and priorities I had at the time. I love that bike; it's taken me through death valley, the sierras and all over California. I'm happy it's going to someone who will give it the love it needs. A Ghezzi Brian kit was something I toyed with myself but never got around to

Some more pictures

I never thought this day would come, but after months of self denial and kicking the ball down the road, the time has finally come to post up my V11 Le Mans, Rossa Corsa Full disclosure, she is a project. I've had a constant issue with the left cylinder "hiccuping" and dying and not holding an idle unless the idle adjustment is turned way up. I've tried pretty much everything this wonderful forum has suggested (TPS sensor voltage, balancing the throttle bodies, adjusting the valves, checking the boot connection from the intake to the throttle bodies, adjusting the idle screws, etc) and at this point life has gotten too busy with the current number of bikes that I have. At the end of the day, I'm too busy personally to properly address it and I want it to go to someone who can give it the love she deserves The V11 isn't perfect as you can see from the pictures. She has a salvage title from when someone turned left into me. She's a different color as a result crash from an excellent painter and fiberglass worker. She has probably 50k miles on it (odometer stopped working, very well documented issue on this forum), but the motor has maybe 5k miles since a new crankshaft was installed. There are a lot of excellent parts Ohlins suspension front and back (she is a Rossa Corsa despite the pain suggestion) Staintune Mufflers from a Daytona with Mistral Headers and crosspipe Megacycle 620x9 cam Ported heads (don't know who did it, but they've been worked on) Hepco-Becker luggage rack (20L cases also provided) That's what I remember on the top of my head. I want her to go to a good home where either she'll be brought back or contribute to something else. I'm asking for $2,000 for her

All the anti-rattle springs are damaged, but one in particular was making a more obvious break for freedom giving me some nice scoring on my transmission. But other than that, there doesn't seem to be anything permanently damaged beyond superficial scrapes

After accomplishing about 3 solid days of work over the course of a month, I was finally able to get the motor and transmission free. It wasn't easy, but surprisingly not super difficult either all things considered. I swear checking the valves on my 98 VFR800 or doing any work on my Futura was more difficult

Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging

Doing so greatly improved the tightness of the lever, decreasing it to ~0.5cm of freeplay. However, it unfortunately wasn't able to get the clutch disengaged in any gear (though it did make it much easier to rotate the rear wheel). In rotating the wheel with the clutch engaged, there was a very obvious scrapping sound and dragging feeling when moving the wheel. I took of the starter motor fearing the worst, but it doesn't seem there is a catastrophic failure inside the bellhousing at the moment. Though I havent had a new seal kit/ master cylinder, I think this might be pointing down to the failed clutch path at the moment...

Was able to get out the grub nut without issue, and I adjusted the plunger as far out as it would go. On a side not, it seems the issue of the master cylinder not being properly sealed is coming from where the plunder engages, since when I took it out for adjustment, it seems to have been covered in brake fluid

Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue

So this is what the clutch fluid looked like at the start. Went through and bled the entire system until it was finally clear, but still didn't help the clutch disengage

2013 Stelvio NTX with about 48k miles. Picked it up from the original owner with less than 7k. No clutch work other than bleeding the master cylinder, which obviously needs a rebuild kit given the state of the fluid. And thanks Pete! No rush and enjoy your vacation

Thought I'd pose this question to the group here and get some opinions and feedback. Hoped on the Stelvio to head into work today, and not half a mile down the road I realize pulling in the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the bike is still creeping forward with it fully pulled in. It's at this time I notice that shifting suddenly became a lot more difficult as well. I was able to creep it back without issue and hop on another bike. I've experienced this exact issue once, on my V11 when the clutch plates were done. I opened the clutch master cylinder to inspect the fluid and saw that it was all black and started attempting to bleed it before realizing I should just get a brake bleeding kit to make it easier. I've had the issue in the past, but it hasn't prevented me from disengaging the clutch. I'll attempt to properly bleed the system, but I'm not that hopeful. Is there anything I should look into and troubleshoot before assuming the worst? Or should I add clutch plates my checkout and start dismantling the Stelvio?

I've recently had this thought, and don't know if I'm mad or if there's any baseline to it. For a while I've been thinking about getting some cast wheels from AF1 and mounting them on my Stelvio. I'm a road going rider, and I don't need the extra strength (or weight) of the spoke wheels, and I'm always dealing with a few psi lost on the rear every few days. The idea of having wheels that don't leak air and have better handling is tempting. But in looking around a few pictures and ebay listings, I realized the Norge seems to have a similar 4 bolt wheel design for the rear and it got me thinking if I could swap both wheels on my Stelvio? I know there would need to be some suspension re-adjustment going to 17'' but I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible?

I think the transverse layout still makes sense today. Makes it easy to service (ie. check the valves) and you don't have the centrifugal force from the crank interfering with you handling. After being in the clutch on my V11 more times than I care, I hope the move the clutch forward for this, though it's not a deal breaker. It looks promising, and exactly the kind of bike I like (sport tourers). I really hope they make a truly modern platform, and not just a watercooled version of their small-block as Pete said.