Kuni0

This is the schematic that I've been using. It's for a 2012 Stelvio. Thankfully it's a very direct connection to the ecu. 55 is the cam position sensor I believe (it's labelled as 'Pick-up' sensor) The dashboard blanks out sometimes when the engine is cranking, but not 100%. The big "SERVICE" sign pops up sometimes, but again not 100% when I turn on the ignition. Bad gas was put as an option, but I'm doubtful of that since I filled up at the same gas station as my girlfriend and she had no issues with her bike (Yamaha MT-07) on the same gas. Regardless, draining the old gas and putting new in should probably be on the list of things to do at this point. (no-ethanol gas isn't an option here in California really unfortunately)

I performed the test in this video here (start of the test at 2:00 timepoint). Even though it's for a car, I don't see how it'll be much different for a motorcycle. Instead of seeing 5V for the high and low signal, I saw 2.5 and 1.5 V. I tested the ground per the procedure in the video and got exactly 12.6V

Yes, Both injectors are firing and both plugs are sparking That's something that I've already tested. I disconnected the cam position sensor from it's terminal and tested the connection to the ECU with (ignition on, testing Volts). From what I've found, the voltage should be 5V for the high and low signal. When I tested the terminal I got 1.5 and 2.5V. I unplugged the connectors from the ECU and it looks perfect (can't see any corrosion)

I cleared and re-read the codes on the Guzzi-Diag, and got these now. My shade-tree mechanic intuition says it might be a battery going bad, but I swapped in a 'good' battery from my 2016 FJ-19 and it still didn't start

I'm back with a report, and unfortunately, the new plug c aps didn't do the trick. I tried a couple of times with my battery booster, and still no dice.

Ordered a new set of plug caps. I'll report back on the results. Regardless, it's a good opportunity to learn my bike more. It is funny that a bike that I consider I know so well throws me something out of left field, and one so well documented at that. (at least I haven't touched the 'sacred screw' in all of my meddling)

Also, running plug caps. These are the standard ones from the factory to my knowledge

Well, I'm the ape that been servicing my Stelvio, and have for the past 60k miles. Whenever I'm removing the plug caps, I take a long allen head socket and guide it under the plug cap and pop it up, as seen in the picture below. (feel free to call me a moron if I've actually been screwing it up)

Hey everyone. As the title implies, I'm at my wits ends and utterly confused. There's a good amount of people here with wonderful knowledge, so I thought I would see what you had to say. (I am aware, there's that massive Stelvio megathread on ADVrider, and other good and questionable forums to look for info, but 'AI, powered by Google' has made searching anything technically descriptive and relevant impossible) About a month ago, I was on my way back home on my Stelvio when suddenly it felt like it was running on 1 cylinder. I would give it full throttle and it barely made a difference to go forward and if I let off the throttle, it would die. I got it towed back deciding it best to not chance it riding on the highway, and have barely gotten it to start. Putting the GuzziDiag on, I got several codes (P0130, P0136, P0335, P0352). Having had a cam position sensor fail and leave me stranded about 3 years ago, I had a spare one and swapped that in hoping for a fix... which didn't work. A previous forum I found (For V7) said the sensor should be around 650 ohm resistance to work. Out of curiosity, I test the old and new sensor. Both 650 ohm. The new sensor didn't work. And that leads into the next series of steps that I took... A friend said spray some carb cleaner down the intake to help prime it. Didn't work Check the plugs since didn't actually check them. Both are sparking Check all the fuses to see if any are blown or corroded. All check out I thought maybe the fuel pump wasn't pumping fuel or the fuel filter got clogged (it did rain here at the time the bike broke down, and the bike has never had the filter replaced in the 60,000 miles I've owned it). I pulled the injectors and they're squirting (I tired to pull the fuel pump, but couldn't get off the retaining ring and cause a fuel leak, but that's a separate issue). Spray a liberal dose of carb cleaner directly in the intake (no air filter) and am able to get it to start and idle (horribly) but as soon as I give throttle, it dies Check the valve clearances fearing the worst. Measure 0.10 mm intake 0.15 mm exhaust on both... perfect... Different friends suggest that although the plugs are squirting, they may be clogged from water or contaminants. Buy an injector cleaner kit, clean the injectors and still no start (Still have spark and fuel) Do some digging in the forums and find cased where the chain guide snapped and caused timing to go off and other such terrible destructive events that describe my situation. Take off oil splasher from both cams and find them perfectly aligned (looking at the guides and chain itself with a flashlight from the bottom down, I saw no damage) Think that maybe the battery is bad and change it for one from my working bikes (2016 Yamaha FJ-09). No start Re-read with Guzi-Diag and just see P0335 code Finally found a video seemed to go into detail about diagnosing cam position sensor issues (Link to the video found here). Even though it's for cars, thought I'd give it a try. Disconnect the cam sensor to the wiring loom and get these results: Ground: 12.4V, White: 1.5V, Red: 2.5V (video says white and red (Low and High signal) should be ~5V and anything lower is a problem). Think I find the problem, and realize it's in the worst place possible (either in the ECU or wiring loom). Try again turning over the engine while checking high and low signal and still 2.5 and 1.5V Start to dig into the wiring harness, but stop. Ask some friends and they suggest different things (Look at the voltage in an oscilloscope to see a good sinewave, check all the grounds for low voltage) and that pretty much brings me here. Short of buying an oscilloscope to test the sine wave of the current, I don't know what I can do to help troubleshoot this bike. Before I proceed there, is there 1. A way to check the connections from the camshaft position sensor wiring --> ECU connection? I've done a primative continuity test with Ohms and have seem about 0.1-0.01 Ohm from all 3 connectors. 2. Check the ECU. When I check high and low signal from the batter to the ECU, I see 10V for both instead of the aforementioned 2.5 and 1.5 V. Is this significant and direct it down to my wiring harness? 3. I check the ground connections I can find. There's the ECU ground that I looked good (cleaned and re-attached) and the two grounds near the starter motor (again, cleaned and re-connected) and still not start. Is there a 4th ground that I should check as well? Anyway, that's all I can think of at the moment. I'll try to answer any questions related to troubleshooting as soon as I can. And thank you in advanced.

She actually never went down on the right side. The valve covers were swapped and I never bothered to put them back on the 'correct' side. She's gone down twice on the left. First time, someone changed lanes into me. I tried to 'eject' from the bike but my left foot got caught by the exhaust and the bike ended up dragging me about 100ft before it came to a stop at a curb. Amazingly, I didn't have any injuries at all. That prompted to paint job and other additions like the staintune pipes since the carbon fiber ones I had got damaged. Second time someone cut into my lane turning left. It was wet that day and I happened to be braking over a painted section. It was minor enough that I didn't bother to fix it with all the other projects and priorities I had at the time. I love that bike; it's taken me through death valley, the sierras and all over California. I'm happy it's going to someone who will give it the love it needs. A Ghezzi Brian kit was something I toyed with myself but never got around to

Some more pictures

I never thought this day would come, but after months of self denial and kicking the ball down the road, the time has finally come to post up my V11 Le Mans, Rossa Corsa Full disclosure, she is a project. I've had a constant issue with the left cylinder "hiccuping" and dying and not holding an idle unless the idle adjustment is turned way up. I've tried pretty much everything this wonderful forum has suggested (TPS sensor voltage, balancing the throttle bodies, adjusting the valves, checking the boot connection from the intake to the throttle bodies, adjusting the idle screws, etc) and at this point life has gotten too busy with the current number of bikes that I have. At the end of the day, I'm too busy personally to properly address it and I want it to go to someone who can give it the love she deserves The V11 isn't perfect as you can see from the pictures. She has a salvage title from when someone turned left into me. She's a different color as a result crash from an excellent painter and fiberglass worker. She has probably 50k miles on it (odometer stopped working, very well documented issue on this forum), but the motor has maybe 5k miles since a new crankshaft was installed. There are a lot of excellent parts Ohlins suspension front and back (she is a Rossa Corsa despite the pain suggestion) Staintune Mufflers from a Daytona with Mistral Headers and crosspipe Megacycle 620x9 cam Ported heads (don't know who did it, but they've been worked on) Hepco-Becker luggage rack (20L cases also provided) That's what I remember on the top of my head. I want her to go to a good home where either she'll be brought back or contribute to something else. I'm asking for $2,000 for her

All the anti-rattle springs are damaged, but one in particular was making a more obvious break for freedom giving me some nice scoring on my transmission. But other than that, there doesn't seem to be anything permanently damaged beyond superficial scrapes

After accomplishing about 3 solid days of work over the course of a month, I was finally able to get the motor and transmission free. It wasn't easy, but surprisingly not super difficult either all things considered. I swear checking the valves on my 98 VFR800 or doing any work on my Futura was more difficult

Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging

Doing so greatly improved the tightness of the lever, decreasing it to ~0.5cm of freeplay. However, it unfortunately wasn't able to get the clutch disengaged in any gear (though it did make it much easier to rotate the rear wheel). In rotating the wheel with the clutch engaged, there was a very obvious scrapping sound and dragging feeling when moving the wheel. I took of the starter motor fearing the worst, but it doesn't seem there is a catastrophic failure inside the bellhousing at the moment. Though I havent had a new seal kit/ master cylinder, I think this might be pointing down to the failed clutch path at the moment...

Was able to get out the grub nut without issue, and I adjusted the plunger as far out as it would go. On a side not, it seems the issue of the master cylinder not being properly sealed is coming from where the plunder engages, since when I took it out for adjustment, it seems to have been covered in brake fluid

Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue

So this is what the clutch fluid looked like at the start. Went through and bled the entire system until it was finally clear, but still didn't help the clutch disengage

2013 Stelvio NTX with about 48k miles. Picked it up from the original owner with less than 7k. No clutch work other than bleeding the master cylinder, which obviously needs a rebuild kit given the state of the fluid. And thanks Pete! No rush and enjoy your vacation

Thought I'd pose this question to the group here and get some opinions and feedback. Hoped on the Stelvio to head into work today, and not half a mile down the road I realize pulling in the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the bike is still creeping forward with it fully pulled in. It's at this time I notice that shifting suddenly became a lot more difficult as well. I was able to creep it back without issue and hop on another bike. I've experienced this exact issue once, on my V11 when the clutch plates were done. I opened the clutch master cylinder to inspect the fluid and saw that it was all black and started attempting to bleed it before realizing I should just get a brake bleeding kit to make it easier. I've had the issue in the past, but it hasn't prevented me from disengaging the clutch. I'll attempt to properly bleed the system, but I'm not that hopeful. Is there anything I should look into and troubleshoot before assuming the worst? Or should I add clutch plates my checkout and start dismantling the Stelvio?

I've recently had this thought, and don't know if I'm mad or if there's any baseline to it. For a while I've been thinking about getting some cast wheels from AF1 and mounting them on my Stelvio. I'm a road going rider, and I don't need the extra strength (or weight) of the spoke wheels, and I'm always dealing with a few psi lost on the rear every few days. The idea of having wheels that don't leak air and have better handling is tempting. But in looking around a few pictures and ebay listings, I realized the Norge seems to have a similar 4 bolt wheel design for the rear and it got me thinking if I could swap both wheels on my Stelvio? I know there would need to be some suspension re-adjustment going to 17'' but I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible?

I think the transverse layout still makes sense today. Makes it easy to service (ie. check the valves) and you don't have the centrifugal force from the crank interfering with you handling. After being in the clutch on my V11 more times than I care, I hope the move the clutch forward for this, though it's not a deal breaker. It looks promising, and exactly the kind of bike I like (sport tourers). I really hope they make a truly modern platform, and not just a watercooled version of their small-block as Pete said.

I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction.