Kuni0

She actually never went down on the right side. The valve covers were swapped and I never bothered to put them back on the 'correct' side. She's gone down twice on the left. First time, someone changed lanes into me. I tried to 'eject' from the bike but my left foot got caught by the exhaust and the bike ended up dragging me about 100ft before it came to a stop at a curb. Amazingly, I didn't have any injuries at all. That prompted to paint job and other additions like the staintune pipes since the carbon fiber ones I had got damaged. Second time someone cut into my lane turning left. It was wet that day and I happened to be braking over a painted section. It was minor enough that I didn't bother to fix it with all the other projects and priorities I had at the time. I love that bike; it's taken me through death valley, the sierras and all over California. I'm happy it's going to someone who will give it the love it needs. A Ghezzi Brian kit was something I toyed with myself but never got around to

Some more pictures

I never thought this day would come, but after months of self denial and kicking the ball down the road, the time has finally come to post up my V11 Le Mans, Rossa Corsa Full disclosure, she is a project. I've had a constant issue with the left cylinder "hiccuping" and dying and not holding an idle unless the idle adjustment is turned way up. I've tried pretty much everything this wonderful forum has suggested (TPS sensor voltage, balancing the throttle bodies, adjusting the valves, checking the boot connection from the intake to the throttle bodies, adjusting the idle screws, etc) and at this point life has gotten too busy with the current number of bikes that I have. At the end of the day, I'm too busy personally to properly address it and I want it to go to someone who can give it the love she deserves The V11 isn't perfect as you can see from the pictures. She has a salvage title from when someone turned left into me. She's a different color as a result crash from an excellent painter and fiberglass worker. She has probably 50k miles on it (odometer stopped working, very well documented issue on this forum), but the motor has maybe 5k miles since a new crankshaft was installed. There are a lot of excellent parts Ohlins suspension front and back (she is a Rossa Corsa despite the pain suggestion) Staintune Mufflers from a Daytona with Mistral Headers and crosspipe Megacycle 620x9 cam Ported heads (don't know who did it, but they've been worked on) Hepco-Becker luggage rack (20L cases also provided) That's what I remember on the top of my head. I want her to go to a good home where either she'll be brought back or contribute to something else. I'm asking for $2,000 for her

All the anti-rattle springs are damaged, but one in particular was making a more obvious break for freedom giving me some nice scoring on my transmission. But other than that, there doesn't seem to be anything permanently damaged beyond superficial scrapes

After accomplishing about 3 solid days of work over the course of a month, I was finally able to get the motor and transmission free. It wasn't easy, but surprisingly not super difficult either all things considered. I swear checking the valves on my 98 VFR800 or doing any work on my Futura was more difficult

Started digging around the bellhousing a bit, rotating it as I moved along, and lo and behold, what do I manage to fish out!!! I suppose this now answers why the clutch wasn't disengaging

Doing so greatly improved the tightness of the lever, decreasing it to ~0.5cm of freeplay. However, it unfortunately wasn't able to get the clutch disengaged in any gear (though it did make it much easier to rotate the rear wheel). In rotating the wheel with the clutch engaged, there was a very obvious scrapping sound and dragging feeling when moving the wheel. I took of the starter motor fearing the worst, but it doesn't seem there is a catastrophic failure inside the bellhousing at the moment. Though I havent had a new seal kit/ master cylinder, I think this might be pointing down to the failed clutch path at the moment...

Was able to get out the grub nut without issue, and I adjusted the plunger as far out as it would go. On a side not, it seems the issue of the master cylinder not being properly sealed is coming from where the plunder engages, since when I took it out for adjustment, it seems to have been covered in brake fluid

Taking Pete's advice, I checked the play in the lever, and seeing that it was ~1.5cm of freeplay until the clutch started to engage, I decided to adjust the plunger hoping that would fix my issue

So this is what the clutch fluid looked like at the start. Went through and bled the entire system until it was finally clear, but still didn't help the clutch disengage

2013 Stelvio NTX with about 48k miles. Picked it up from the original owner with less than 7k. No clutch work other than bleeding the master cylinder, which obviously needs a rebuild kit given the state of the fluid. And thanks Pete! No rush and enjoy your vacation

Thought I'd pose this question to the group here and get some opinions and feedback. Hoped on the Stelvio to head into work today, and not half a mile down the road I realize pulling in the clutch isn't fully disengaging, and the bike is still creeping forward with it fully pulled in. It's at this time I notice that shifting suddenly became a lot more difficult as well. I was able to creep it back without issue and hop on another bike. I've experienced this exact issue once, on my V11 when the clutch plates were done. I opened the clutch master cylinder to inspect the fluid and saw that it was all black and started attempting to bleed it before realizing I should just get a brake bleeding kit to make it easier. I've had the issue in the past, but it hasn't prevented me from disengaging the clutch. I'll attempt to properly bleed the system, but I'm not that hopeful. Is there anything I should look into and troubleshoot before assuming the worst? Or should I add clutch plates my checkout and start dismantling the Stelvio?

I've recently had this thought, and don't know if I'm mad or if there's any baseline to it. For a while I've been thinking about getting some cast wheels from AF1 and mounting them on my Stelvio. I'm a road going rider, and I don't need the extra strength (or weight) of the spoke wheels, and I'm always dealing with a few psi lost on the rear every few days. The idea of having wheels that don't leak air and have better handling is tempting. But in looking around a few pictures and ebay listings, I realized the Norge seems to have a similar 4 bolt wheel design for the rear and it got me thinking if I could swap both wheels on my Stelvio? I know there would need to be some suspension re-adjustment going to 17'' but I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible?

I think the transverse layout still makes sense today. Makes it easy to service (ie. check the valves) and you don't have the centrifugal force from the crank interfering with you handling. After being in the clutch on my V11 more times than I care, I hope the move the clutch forward for this, though it's not a deal breaker. It looks promising, and exactly the kind of bike I like (sport tourers). I really hope they make a truly modern platform, and not just a watercooled version of their small-block as Pete said.

I got over 13k miles from a Road 5 rear on my Le Mans, and I've consistently had over 9k miles on my heavier bikes (Stelvio, ST1300) with road 5's. I run ~42 psi on the rear, but I've rarely had issues with traction.

I ended up buying a used V11 crank and rods on ebay and getting that swapped in. Still have the original crank. I can probably get it straightened, but I want to hold onto it as a backup

After a lot of blood, sweat, beer, forum browsing, and troubleshooting, I've got her on the road again. Had to pull the motor because of a bent crankshaft due to my dumbass not torqueing down the stator nut. Gave it to a friend who's a master engine builder, and she gave me a damned good motor in exchange for some $$ (highly recommend Mototown in Marinna, Ca if you're close). While it was apart, I worked on the transmission (filed the shift selector, new spring thanks to Scud, straightened the shift lever that was banana shaped after an accident, addressed a gear oil leak from a sloppy permatex job). Downshifts are still not 100%, but it's much improved than what it was before. Chased some oil leak issues from the back, but it was thankfully determined to be the bell-housing/breather hose because I stupidly didn't clamp it down. Traced some charging issues back to wires connecting on the positive terminal not being fully connected; discovered both in the comfort of my garage, and on 101N in the left lane. Some quick side-of-the road splicing got me down the road. She's not 100% yet. I don't actually how how well she's charging because I discovered the ground leads on my cheap hazard fraught multimeter have almost come off. Had some 'hiccups' that was causing the idle to drop and stall. Turned up the idle as a bodge fix so she won't stall out at stops, but the hiccups are still there, leading me to think there's a hole in the intake boots. But I was able to go for a proper ride up in the Oakland/ Berkeley hills today. I've missed her dearly. It's good to have her back

Doesn't look to be a Le Mans, but there might still be some life in Mandello de Lario. https://www.visordown.com/news/new-bikes/moto-guzzi-teases-new-centenary-edition-motorcycle

docc, I did check the input hub, and it seems to have not loosed at all. Lucky Phil, I have SD-TEC plates in it, and one of the issues I had was I put the friction plates in backwards, so the clutch wasn't engaging at all.

Tinus89, you were right on the money! I took apart everything down to the springs, re-seated them and put it all together. With the clutch pulled in, I was able to rotate the shaft while the bike was in gear! I've since re-assembled everything and the bike is running now! Hopefully this'll be the last time in a while where I have to pull everything to get at the clutch.

I know this topic has probably already been covered, but I figure it still can't hurt to ask again. I'm currently having issues with the clutch not disengaging. I originally pulled it apart because the flywheel bolts weren't torqued down correctly, and now that everything is assembled, I put into first gear, and the bike lurches forward and dies. Sure enough, I put it into first gear, pull in the clutch, rock it, and it doesn't move. BUT, the clutch assembly seems to be fine! All 10 springs are there, the button for the pressure plate was still on, the clutch plates are in correctly, and the pushrod seems to be moving forward just fine! When I pull in the clutch, it feels normal and I can hear it moving the pressure plate. The only thing I can think of is the transmission at this point. When I pulled the clutch, I took off the transmission side plate to put silicon gasket sealer around it and stop a gear-oil drip I had. I remember it was a pain putting the side cover back on because gears/ bits (sorry, don't know the technical term) had moved around inside the transmission, and I moved them again to get the side cover on. Is it possible it's now the transmission that's not letting be disengage the clutch? Or is it something completely different? Thank you for all your help

I have staintunes from a Guzzi Daytona on my V11. Same mounting points, and slipped on just fine. The best looking and sounding exhausts IMO

Didn't exactly use the right tools all the time, but you use what you got

Picture of the Le Mans as she is now