Kuni0

I ended up buying a used V11 crank and rods on ebay and getting that swapped in. Still have the original crank. I can probably get it straightened, but I want to hold onto it as a backup

After a lot of blood, sweat, beer, forum browsing, and troubleshooting, I've got her on the road again. Had to pull the motor because of a bent crankshaft due to my dumbass not torqueing down the stator nut. Gave it to a friend who's a master engine builder, and she gave me a damned good motor in exchange for some $$ (highly recommend Mototown in Marinna, Ca if you're close). While it was apart, I worked on the transmission (filed the shift selector, new spring thanks to Scud, straightened the shift lever that was banana shaped after an accident, addressed a gear oil leak from a sloppy permatex job). Downshifts are still not 100%, but it's much improved than what it was before. Chased some oil leak issues from the back, but it was thankfully determined to be the bell-housing/breather hose because I stupidly didn't clamp it down. Traced some charging issues back to wires connecting on the positive terminal not being fully connected; discovered both in the comfort of my garage, and on 101N in the left lane. Some quick side-of-the road splicing got me down the road. She's not 100% yet. I don't actually how how well she's charging because I discovered the ground leads on my cheap hazard fraught multimeter have almost come off. Had some 'hiccups' that was causing the idle to drop and stall. Turned up the idle as a bodge fix so she won't stall out at stops, but the hiccups are still there, leading me to think there's a hole in the intake boots. But I was able to go for a proper ride up in the Oakland/ Berkeley hills today. I've missed her dearly. It's good to have her back

Doesn't look to be a Le Mans, but there might still be some life in Mandello de Lario. https://www.visordown.com/news/new-bikes/moto-guzzi-teases-new-centenary-edition-motorcycle

docc, I did check the input hub, and it seems to have not loosed at all. Lucky Phil, I have SD-TEC plates in it, and one of the issues I had was I put the friction plates in backwards, so the clutch wasn't engaging at all.

Tinus89, you were right on the money! I took apart everything down to the springs, re-seated them and put it all together. With the clutch pulled in, I was able to rotate the shaft while the bike was in gear! I've since re-assembled everything and the bike is running now! Hopefully this'll be the last time in a while where I have to pull everything to get at the clutch.

I know this topic has probably already been covered, but I figure it still can't hurt to ask again. I'm currently having issues with the clutch not disengaging. I originally pulled it apart because the flywheel bolts weren't torqued down correctly, and now that everything is assembled, I put into first gear, and the bike lurches forward and dies. Sure enough, I put it into first gear, pull in the clutch, rock it, and it doesn't move. BUT, the clutch assembly seems to be fine! All 10 springs are there, the button for the pressure plate was still on, the clutch plates are in correctly, and the pushrod seems to be moving forward just fine! When I pull in the clutch, it feels normal and I can hear it moving the pressure plate. The only thing I can think of is the transmission at this point. When I pulled the clutch, I took off the transmission side plate to put silicon gasket sealer around it and stop a gear-oil drip I had. I remember it was a pain putting the side cover back on because gears/ bits (sorry, don't know the technical term) had moved around inside the transmission, and I moved them again to get the side cover on. Is it possible it's now the transmission that's not letting be disengage the clutch? Or is it something completely different? Thank you for all your help

I have staintunes from a Guzzi Daytona on my V11. Same mounting points, and slipped on just fine. The best looking and sounding exhausts IMO

Didn't exactly use the right tools all the time, but you use what you got

Picture of the Le Mans as she is now

Thanks ScuRoo for the message, thought it would be nice to give an update from my project Everything is back together, and the bike (seems) to be running great. It turns out it was the pushrod button that had fallen out causing me to not have a clutch. As I mentioned in my post, the heads seem to have been ported in a previous life so I didn't need to do that. All of the modifications and work that's been done to my Le Mans are: Megacycle 620x9 cam, Roper plate, cleaned the carbon buildup on the pistons/ head and valves (and re-lapped them), ported heads (don't know who though), new rings and gaskets, K&N pods, Mistral headers and crossover, and Staintune exhausts from a Guzzi Daytona. I kept the original valves, springs and pushrods, though I would like to find some chrome-moly pushrods at some point. The ECU is stock to my knowledge. It did have a dyno-jet, but I took it off as the engine fumbled between 1.5-3.5k RPM, though I may but it back on and play around at some point. My goal from the beginning was to give the motor a refresh and add a little more power without sacrificing reliability. I seem to have done that; it pulls harder and faster then before and is intoxicating to accelerate out of a corner. I haven't had it on a dyno, don't know who (if anyone) in the Bay area has a motorcycle dyno. I've only put about 1000 miles on since the rebuild so long term reliability will remain to be seen, though I think issues might be due to my own meddling rather then something wrong with the parts/ modifications. I'm very glad it's so easy to work on the Guzzi! For the most part, a decent mechanics tool set can get most of the bike apart, and parts (including the specialty tools) are surprisingly available online. I would just add, make sure ALL bolts are properly tightened! I've run into so many issues with loose/ loosing bolts because I was so exited to have the bike running again.

Update to this old thread. My Rosso Corsa is almost all together now. Engine wise, i went with a megacycle 620x9 camshaft, installed a roper plate, and simply cleaned the piston and cylinder heads and valves (as well as lapping them). Upon inspection of the intake, it seems that someone had done some porting and polishing in a previous life. I've put everything together now basically after much trial and error. Ran into a few issues (stator wires broke apart so I re-soldered it together) and general difficulties of getting the bike together by yourself, but finally it started yesterday! After chasing down an issue that turned out to be a loose ground wire behind the transmission, she started right up! God I miss that sound! But.... now the clutch doesn't seem to "engage". The clutch lever has no pressure to it, and it doesn't sound like it's engaging at all when the bike is on. The master cylinder was disconnected from the clutch line while I was working on it, but I've bled the entire line through and still no pressure. From what I've read, it seems possible the the clutch pushrod is actually fully engaged and that's why the lever has no pressure to it. Any thoughts or ideas to try? I'd really like to not drop the motor again if possible to remedy this. I was thinking about opening up the transmission side case (have to anyway) and seeing if I can move the pushrod from there or not. One of the three screws on the slave cylinder is horribly stripped, so taking that off would be a big PITA. Any thoughts are appreciated!

I've got a full Motoport riding suit, Daytona security boots with Sidi adventure boots as backup, Helimot racer gloves and either a Shoei or Shark full face lid. I was hit by cars 3 times last year (1. Car jumped a red and hit me dead while I was making a protected left turn. 2. Car switched lanes into me and bumped me, resulting in serious lowside 3. Tesla pulled a left when she shouldn't have and I t-bones into her passenger door and few over her car) and crash nearly tested all my pieces of gear. Besides having my leg broken from the first crash (I was wearing old TXC boots that had worn out at that point) I somehow had no major injuries from the others.

Ok, so a bit of an update to the thread. I talked with Mike Rich about porting and polishing the heads, but unfortunately the turnaround time is too long for my goals. Instead I'll have a friend who's a master motorcycle mechanic and experienced hot-rodder to do the porting. I've dropped in a Megacycle 620x9 cam (along with new tappets) and a roper plate. I have the new clutch/ intermediate plates, springs and will be keeping the stock flywheel. At this point, I have everything I need engine wise besides the porting, and just need to go through it and make sure everything is torqued down and replace the engine consumables (rings, gaskets, valve stem seals) I also took this opportunity to take off the Ohlins and get them serviced (JpH suspension) and will go back to him for further adjustment when everything is back together. r3datom9, I'm more then willing to trade bikes when everything is back together and explore what riding the north bay has to offer. It'll be interesting to compare the bikes once all is said and done.

Hello everyone, I was hoping I could get some advice from the great people here and get some opinions/ options to mildly hot-rod my Guzzi motor. Because of some transmission issues, I had to pull the motor from my Guzzi to diagnose (which I soon discovered was likely caused by literally disintegrated clutch plates) and I figured with over 45k miles, might as well take the opportunity to service and modify my Le Mans as I saw fit, especially with trying to squeeze a little more power out of the motor while still maintaining everyday reliability. What are the opinions on Cams/ Valves/ Springs/ Pushrods, anything else I might be missing? I was looking heavily at the Megacycle 620x10, but I'm unsure of the modifications needed for it. For street use, I've heard the 620x9 is better? Ghezzi Brian also sell a camshaft, but don't list the specs so if anyone knows anything about that I would be interested to hear. I know valves/ springs/ pushrods would help with the motor (and in some cases are necessary for a hotter cam) but I'm pretty lost when it comes to this aspect of Guzzi tuning. I know for sure I was going to try and find a Roper plate and get the heads ported and polished. I've decided against Hi-comp pistons because of how crappy the fuel can be here in California. This will be a street bike through and through! I don't want to make sacrifices to reliability as I want to continue to tour on it and put thousands of more miles on her. Though I'll take it to a professional when needed, I would like to do most of the work myself when possible. Thanks in advance!

US pricing will start at $12,000, while bags will bring it up to $13,000 https://www.asphaltandrubber.com/news/2019-moto-guzzi-v85-tt-price/

Hello everyone, Frequently used this forum, but never contributed until now. I'm fortunate enough to own an incredibly rare Rossa Corsa edition V11 Le Mans, one of the most beautiful production bikes ever made IMO. It's my first Guzzi, and my first bike after having my leg broken earlier this year. She's my everyday bike, commuting, touring, backroad blasting in the Santa Cruz mountains. She has her quirks, but my guzzi has been well sorted and I find is a very reliable and easy bike to work on! Been through a lot with her: Riding through death valley, trips up to Tahoe, doing the ton from Barstow to Vegas (going 100 miles in an hour) hitting a bird at 70+mph and breaking the headlight in the middle of a 400 mile stint, and I was planning to ride her across the US this year to AMA vintage days in Ohio until a car turned left into and made me low side her. I bought her back and repaired her though. I don't think I'll ever sell her. Bit about me, I'm a younger guy in biotech in the bay area. Basically I'm a lab tech that helps manufacture cell therapies for companies.