marktheaxeman

Many thanks Phil. I only find mine a bit hairy when really pushing on on very bumpy roads.

I have the short red frame bike. I'm not sure if it has the extra gearbox support tbh. It was imported from Japan so its not a UK bike. cheers. ta.

Does the slightly longer spring make the bike more twitchy and quicker steering? Im not sure I want to sacrifice stability for quicker steering. I'll have a look for the ohlins specs on here, thanks..

That would be great if you can get the dimensions Phil. I was surprised they wanted me to confirm the dimensions seeing as they made the shock for the isle of mann TT bike years ago.

Hello. I'm getting a Maxton NR4 shock made for my short frame v11 to hopefully improve on the ride quality. The original Sachs unit seems really hard and downright pain full over potholes on our crappy UK roads. Maxton have asked for confirmation of some measurements first though. Does anybody know the dimensions? They said the last one they made for the v11 was Length between centres - 280mm Top eye size - 22 mm across flats x 12 mm hole. Bottom eye size - 22 mm across flats x 12mm hole. Also they recommend making the shock a little longer than stock to make the back end sit higher - I think I read somewhere that the ohlins unit was a bit longer. Would this be a good idea to speed up the steering or would it make the bike unstable. ? Many thanks, Mark.

Good idea - why the he'll didn't I think of that. Doh! Thanks.

I was going to try and reuse the weights in the new bars if they would fit. Also I need to remove the throttle tube from the original handlebar.

I am trying to remove the clip ons and fit some standard Renthal bars to improve the comfort a bit for my dodgy back, but I cant seem to remove the bar end weights. I have sprayed loads of WD40 in there and left to soak for a bit - but no matter how much force I put on the allen key screw it wont budge. Nearly snapped the damn thing off. I was holding the bar end with pipe grips with a bit of rubber to stop the damage (didnt really work!). Im guessing the thing is corroded to hell inside the bar as its not been moved for 20 years. Has anyone got any good tips before i take a hacksaw to it. Many thanks, Mark.

Last time I was out on the bike I noticed that the rev counter was reading very low - probably around 1500-2500 lower than the actual revs. Weirdly though when I really revved the bike over say 5000 it seemed to read more accurately. At tick over the needle was barely moving. Anyone know what is going on please. I was going to start checking connections but not sure where to start. Many thanks...

Hi Luc, That looks just the kind of set up I'm after. Did you drill the top yoke yourself and what bar clamps did you use? I like the ideal of being a little more upright. I guess you have to replace the throttle cable and clutch line? Thanks for your help, Mark.

Hi Luc, I like what you've done there - but I dont think that will work with my brake pedal as its not the standard one and doesnt have a flat edge to it. I think my foot rests will be in roughly the same position as yours though once i spin my rearsets around by 180 deg. Do you have any trouble with them grounding out at all? Are they much more comfortable? Cheers, Mark.

Hello all!! I am in the process of altering the rear sets on my 2001 V11 to gain a little more room in the leg department. But this means the current brake lever i have fitted will be too short. Does anyone have a standard rear brake lever that they would want to sell me. I will of course cover all postage costs. I'm in Bath UK. many thanks, Mark.

Thanks swooshdave - cheap as chips too!!

Hi Scud - any luck with finding the levers and foot rests etc? cheers Mark.

Docc will the later brake and gear shift work on the red short frame - which my bike is?? Cheers,