Kevin_T

Let me ask a few questions here. What age are you? I ask because it's important, a couple years ago the wife and went to California drove close to 900 miles a day for 3 days. Now at 66 the wife and I went to Colorado a little over 600 miles a day for 2 days and that took a toll. If your late 50's you can recover quickly. (That's on the K1600) Do you have anything like a cramp buster? They are a poor substitute for cruise control, but if the wind coming off your fairing is hitting you in the helmet 4 days at 500 miles a day throw in the tension of throttle cable springs you could have tight neck and shoulder muscles. You mentioned camping? I love camping it's what I live for, but there is a time and a place for it. If you're going to use 6 days to go cross country go for it. You'll probably make a lot of stops along the way. Limited gas tank range and re-hydrate should still be hot. Although you get a couple extra hours. Your bike she's a beauty, above all have fun stay safe.

Anyone looking for a room at Tellico Lodge might want to check with Bryan. I had to cancel the other day room 101. Should have said it sooner.

I also had that problem. The gasket was sucked in. Thought the P.O. just didn't know how to install a valve cover gasket, but the number of people reporting this makes wonder. Docc talks about his original valve cover gaskets and that's fine for him, but some people seem to have an unnatural amount vacuum in their crankcase. A little bit of vacuum is a great thing but too much is going to pull blow by gases through the wrist pin. My bike pissed on the leg of my Stitch and I don't want my new Stitch baptized in the same manner.

I almost hate to resurrect this thread after it's been laid to rest but. If you're interested in temperature what about using the head temp sensor and a digital gauge. Guzzi-dia. gets its information from it along with the computer it would seem to be a less expensive route. Never heard of anyone doing it sounds like a less complicated way to go about it. When I got my Lemans I wanted to use it to commute. From time to time with traffic congestion I'm not sure at what point I should pull over and let the bike cool. As the bike gets really, really hot it has its own sounds and smells but, good science is good data. I don't want to take the temper out of my piston rings.

Ok, when I went to Glacier National Park, I just didn't have time to do Waterton Park, but after that video that is going on my list of rides that Needs to be done. Watching Nick tooling down the road on his Eldorado I could picture myself on my old scooter (Very entertaining).

Got to love P.O., I would try for used parts from bike wreckers like Pinwall or Guzzi-tech even E-bay. I was fitting some saddle- bags so I was digging into that section of the bike, and the original design is more than able to handle about any weight you could throw at it. I was kind of surprised when I saw your post.

This is interesting I have a High milage bike that blew the seal. When I rubbed my hand over the fork tube it felt like it was shoot peened for all the stones thrown at it. I contacted someone I thought could handle the job they tried to convince me I needed beauty chrome and not hard chrome so I never followed through So I'll keep an eye on this thread and learn. For removing threads with loctite I started using a very large soldering iron I mean it's about 350 watts. I do have an acetylene torch with a 000 tip, but I find the iron is much more locale heat.

John, can you give us a picture of your spark plugs and do a compression test. I know what can you tell by that , but a little information is better then none. I'm sure you've gone over this a 100 times but I was wondering about cylinder pressure. You could reduce your compression ratio by retarding your cam a few degrees it might give you what you need and wouldn't cost any money. I like the fan idea how many watts is it? Before you do anything more with the oil coolers I think would remove the turn signals and try some hybrid fairing. Of course if your stuck in traffic a fan is the only real solution and that's limited.

PM sent

I think the size was more dependent on making the rocker arm system work. All that protrudes out of the lifter bore is the very top. Is the cam base circle smaller then on the new engine.

Don't want to pirate your tread but, Wedge, Your Magni is pretty encapsulated (I guess would be the word) that's a lot of latent heat under her fairing, how much insulation do you have on the header pipes? I would hate to see that lovely paint start to blister.

You need to fashion that story into some kind of Greeting Card. From one Guzzi rider to another what its all about.

Having owned a 1984 RS /7 I can confirm a lot about what people are saying. What they aren't saying is bikes from that era although parts are available they can be very expensive. Sometimes BMW will surprise you and they'll be reasonable but not often and net engine parts. Then there is the problem of working on them true simple maintenance is pretty good but if need to dig deep into them your going to need a special tool to do almost anything. I mean it, its like some kind of sick German humor. What would take a few hours might take days because you'll be building a special tool or buying one. The technology is just different not better or worse just different. A Guzzi you could keep workshop manual on the self and never use its intuitive. Not a beemer, if you don't study your manual (and it better be a good one) you WILL SCREW something up. Handling? I guess they earn the name "Rubber Cow" but if you were smooth on it. It was a good handling machine for the time period. Better then my loop frame that's for sure.

Are those pods on the end of the velocity stacks? (oh, oh)

I've heard of high mileage

I've of high mileage heads cracking through the valve guides it would great to know if it was caused by inclusion or porosity buried inside the head. For sure what you suggested is in order. I mean that's probably the place to start a project like this. I got to say if hasn't already been said owning and working on a daytona motor is not for the faint of heart.

I was wondering if x-ray inspection would be cost prohibitive. It would be nice to know what kind of swiss cheese your working with before spending a ton of money. Looking at a few website and what they offer was amazing, but I'm in no position to give them a head for a quote. Some of the images they were showing must have been done with MRI imagining. If they charged what the hospital charges my insurance that's a no go. Kind curious what the minimum amount of information would allow me to move ahead with confidence.

Don't have much experience with Ti cans, but I just cut into a Satintune can trying to repair it. They used stainless steel wool for the packing pretty sure its 434 alloy just slightly magnetic. Water is a by product of combustion and combustion is never complete so you end up with products like carbonic acid or nitric acid its not just a heat issue. They ended up using about a #3 grade. I wouldn't use stainless steel wool directly against your Ti skin but make a hybrid packing. Lay some lateral strips to build up the oval shape and use your old winding to finalize it. The old packing doesn't look that bad just clean it up with some dawn dish soap. Let it soak a couple days and rinse. No offense but there is not much stoichiometry happening there, its not burnt its probably just soot. One thing I did find interesting when I cut into the Satintune can is the lack of packing material right where the perforated tube entered the muffler. It was definitely about an inch and a half that was bared. It was there for a reason why I don't know. I never heard the Ti cans but when you pull the db killers out of the Staintune its about the most perfect sound I can imagine for the V11.

Kurt I hope you still visit this site. I was wondering why the picture of your crossover looked so milky or cloudy?

This is awesome John truth be told I thought the pump was the problem just figured sloppy cut-off point for the gears in the housing. Hey I thought the relief vale was only along for the ride. I don't want to worry you but you are dealing with systems here and changing one thing effects a whole lot of other things. Not trying to put a spin on your work I plan to follow in your footsteps. I'm can't think for the life of me why Guzzi didn't do something with this. I mean as a manufacturer they would have a vast amount of data to look at. What weight of oil were you using for your test? Here is a crazy idea if the spring controls pressure switching to a lighter wt oil might increase the volume of oil as a cooling media (might also take your oil cooler). You might lose a couple psi but gain a little horsepower over a 60 wt oil

Those bags appear to be in great shape. I'm interested in them how many liters are they? P.M. me with some pictures if you have any more and well see what shipping cost comes to.

Well its important to keep ones proper perspective in life.

Well its like when I was growing up listening to Paul Harvey, "Now I know the Rest of the Story". Didn't know that thanks for the enlightenment.

I tried to get one off of Harper's about a year & half ago but they just kind of blew me off.