NicoNZ

Excellent! Thanks, I worry about the comment re how thin the TI is. Where the straps meet at the top there is some wear into the can. Must be this there!

Thanks for that and yes the graphs do not lie although mine stumbled ALL the time at the 2800-3000 rpm range once up to temperature. Going through the decent tune up thread somewhat reduced it but it was still there all the time. The only change was the ECU and it has gone completely. I see another thread here where someone reported the same symptoms and once the TI ECU was swapped out the stumble was completely gone. The only change made. Also at 3000 rpm in 6th, on a downhill it would stumble due to no load on the motor as in constant throttle. Now completely gone. The other difference is driveability. By that I mean on / off throttle smoothness. Its a joy to ride now from the improvement in that area. Gear changes are a lot smoother because of this improvement. I did have a link to Meinhoff's latest map and actually downloaded it. Its been a year and cannot be sure which map it is so looking to find that map to try for a comparison. The file name of the one I have is 2017.08.31_#93_6.bin I wonder if this is a Meinhof map.

When you say "rub" out the dings, what do you mean by that? I assume its using hand pressure just rub them out from the inside? Thanks, will have to search for the other threads. Nick

Hi Phil, I here what you are saying. How does that explain the elimination of the cough or stumble on a constant throttle at around 2500 - 3000 RPM? That would be nowhere near the throttle openings you have referenced. Also the bike is a lot more responsive across the rev range. Its quite noticeable. I did have the RC ECU with the Lambda turned off through Tuner Pro. The only other contributing factor could be that a previous owner paid a guy a lot of money to @#$$#! around with the ECU to try and remove the stumble to no avail. Maybe he caused some of the poor running with other changes but as I understand it most standard maps cause the constant throttle stumble. I tell you its night and day. Couldn't believe it. Biggest grin inside a helmet for a long time.....

Fantastic! Thanks Footgoose. I can make those up easily. All I needed was the 23mm distance. The rest I could get from both brackets. Thanks a bunch!

Managed to source a TI race kit someone had pulled off their bike before selling. I couldn't wait so tried installing the pipes as soon as they arrived. A little disappointed in the pipes as they have a few marks and a couple of small dings. Anyhow the foot peg hangers would not bolt up due to different hole distance dimensions. On searching the web I noticed a small adaptor bracket is necessary. Contacted the seller. "oh yes I remember those". Bugger! He is going to have look for them. Anyhow I settled on just changing out the ECU. Out goes the 15RC and in goes the 15M. I had already turned the lambda off previously. My god the difference is incredible. My OEM pipes have been cored so it runs fantastic. Not one cough at any rpm anywhere. More responsive and the motor actually seems to sound different and definitely has a different character. I like it a lot....now to figure out wat to do with the TI cans to tidy them up. Thinking about dismantling and taking them to a decent panel beater then giving them a good polish.

Ok so a 7". this one here https://www.alchemyparts.co.uk/led-motorbike-7-headlight-12v-for-retro-cafe-racer-streetfighter-project/

Been looking for one for the Cafe Sport. Would this be the same size? I think there is a difference between the models with a fairing and those without. The Cafe Sport is slightlyhtly smaller. And more to the point, if you were to measure a headlight to determine if a 7" would fit, where do you measure them?

The information on this site tells me you need to use the Tunerpro for this. I tried with guzzidiag and it was not able to cover off this function

Haha yep seen a bit of negativity on the PC3. I need to find a map for the 15RC.

Completed this following the tutorial and it has made a huge difference. TPS was 80mv. A little hard to set exactly at 157 due to the throttle not settling in exactly the same position. Settled on a consistent closing of the throttle and not snapping it closed hard to set the TPS. Never having dabbled with Guaai diag or tuner pro.....hell after 15 years of doing all my mechanical maintenance on Ducatis, Aprilia's and Triumphs, this is the first time I have ventured into the fueling adjustments and it was EASY! Lambda has now been turned off which changed the CO from -128 to "0" so left that as is. Balance was out a bit using the Motion Pro Balance tubes. Might now hook up the PCIII and get it on the dyno. Haven't bothered up to now due to the Lambda control. The bike now idles steadily where it was up and down with an occasional miss which i thought might have been a faulty/dirty crank position sensor. The tune fixed that. Also drastically reduced the constant throttle cough at 2-3k rpm around town. Only had this happen once so far. Now I can use the knowledge to balance the TB's on the ST. Great wright up!

I take it this BIN only works in the 15M ECU and not the 15RC? I tried to upload this and had an error message, something like it not being compatible using Guzzi Diag. I had already used tuner pro to switch the Lambda input off.

First time playing with Guzzidiag. Saved a copy of the map, then used Tunerpro to turn the Lambda probe off. Reloaded the map and CO has changed from -128 to "0". Yay it worked. Set TPS to 157mv following the "Decent Tune Up" instruction. It was 80mv. Balanced the Throttle bodies with the Motion Pro tool. They were a little out. Set the idle and now ready to go. Prior to this I had set the valves and installed new plugs. So once I have repaired the headlight lens retaining screw setup I will be back on the road after a long period of maintenance. The bike should run a hell of a lot better now. I have a PCIII sitting on the shelf so now the Lambda is turned off I may use this and get adjusted on the dyno. This has my first time playing with the TPS and TB's. I have always carried out all other maintenance on my bikes and I have owned a few Ducatis

Isn't their a set of foot pegs from a Buell that will fit and lower the foot position. read that somewhere?

I used to ride with a mate that had a 1995 model 900ss. It could pull away from me when accelerating from low speed. As soon as I hit around 5-6k rpm the 4 valve took over. The 2 torque of the 2 valve helps it spin up faster than the 996 4v.

Yep ridden a SS 1000 and what was really remarkable as other have said is how fast they spin up! Really impressive. I was not expecting that even owning the St4s at the time, which I still do. The 4s is a great bike, going slightly off topic again, it does everything. Its my super fast slick touring machine. The Cafe sport does not have anything like the oomph of the 2 valve Ducati which is strange given the similar power numbers. That's a seat of the pants feel. The Ducati feels like the power runs away from you with the V11 needing you to consciously open the throttle to get the power down and when you do its there alright. Owned the 4s for 14 years now

Yep off to the Supermarket now ...........

I bet Vinales wasn't shouting Yeehaaa during dismount at 220kph on discovery of no brakes over the weekend just gone! But yeah a locked up rear brake is not a happy moment!

Yes well it was great. One of the wires had been sitting down in the swingarm area naked to the eye. The last thing I did was put the battery frame and battery in so with this wire coming from a different direction..I am sure its the main earth to the gearbox I couldn't. I couldn't see it due to the bodywork and everything else masking my view. Once the battery frame was out I could just make out the wire so pulled at it and sure enough she is all go again. Thanks for all your help.....feeling stupid but I can confirm that there are three positive and three negative leads to the battery on the 03 model.....which I will not forget again!! Ciao Nick

No they are different on my bike Phil

Yes correct and this was reattached to the air box :-). I have now sprayed contact cleaner down into the ignition switch and as it dripped out the bottom while I was switching back and forth I assume I have managed to give the contacts some type of clean. It works nice and free with no change thus far.

Yes a strange one. No the Gearbox ground was not removed. Checked the terminals this morning and have three connections for positive and two for the negative. Could not see any other wires missed but will pull the battery for a better look around this evening.

Will check tomorrow as it has been suggested I could have left an earth wire off the battery. I remember there being a few but I have only reconnected 2. Its been 5 months so memory is a little vague and the crafty little cable might have slipped out of my sight!

It is probably simple to solve once the problem is identified since it was running fine before it was put off the road for maintenance. So before I start, the tank and air box have been off, Swing arm and rear shock have been out. Only connectors pulled have been the two gas tank ones. 2003 Cafe Sport. So on powering up there is no fuel pump prime. No neutral light and it will not turn over. No lights on the dash. (neutral and oil is what I would expect). Only the park light turns on. When you turn the key off, the oil light comes on and the headlight also comes on. No fuel pump prime or neutral light and it will not turn over. I can have the lights and the oil light turn off by either pulling the 15A lights fuse or clicking the bike into first gear. Put the fuse back in or click the box back in neutral and everything stays off as it should with the key off. This is very repeatable. I have changed all the relays around with no difference. All the contacts look nice and clean. Two Bosch and 3 Tyco relays. The 30 amp fuse and holder is in great shape. Got to be something simple ..........thanks in advance......oh and yes when trying to start or get the fuel pump to prime i have the side stand up and clutch disengaged. Cheers, Nick

Removed my swing arm bearings in less than a minute. Not sure what all the fuss was about! Slide puller with one "L" shaped hook behind the bearing. Maybe I am just lucky :-)