fiveunderFL

Yesterday I installed the Plata whatever mount that should have been factory installed. Holy crap what a PITA to install and joy to have installed. Me thinks she even leaks less. New tires too, 160/60 is the way to go as far as I'm concerned now. Swerve swerve....

I just installed the plate to as not to continue to rip the gearbox apart. I'm ok with period blood where I park. Holy crap was that the most aggravating piece to install. The "Plata no go inna" is in. I had to jack the motor unit from the left side to align the bolts and use a piece of bent around brazing rod to hold the bolt and put it through the hole. FML.

I need left hand controls, tires, and tachometer (or good deal for whole cluster). Have you taken a look at the gear box yet? Is it cracked by the top mount?

Motor has been replaced. I'm just wondering if the camshaft being stuck in the old motor makes it a giant paperweight?

I don't see the metaphor but then again I am not a Mariner.

It's fixed, and I have already replaced the motor. The motor in question is the original.

Not yet. Link? Mostly 2 to 3 up on it and 4 to 3 down high rev going into turns. Lovely. Fun coasting through an curve with no gas or engine break. Soo safe.

I replaced my motor several months ago after the following happened. Just have questions. 2000 v11 sport. Old motor started knocking , I was going 45 and stopped. Wouldn't budge after cooling. Ripped it apart and the timing side crank flange is married to crankshaft, the camshaft won't budge, front big end bearing fried, the tappet sheared from the cam, there are two missing teeth from the phonic wheel which I found one in bottom of timing chest and the other has made its way with the tappet through the oil pump, which the housing is scarred. I had the bike 2 weeks and got it for a steal because the fuel pump was bad. Picked one up at autostore and rode it away. Anyway I can't get the cam out. Am I correct in thinking this block is destroyed if the cam won't budge. There are no cam bearings correct? Part of the block? anyway I have some 15k mi heads, pistons, jugs, red valve covers, sump, timing set (zip tied in correct position) for sale if the block is toast. oh ya I fixed my oil pressure light.

Interesting. What does the case cost?

I also have the false neutral problems. I'm wondering if buying a complete 2004 gear box would be more cost effective than doing the pre selector upgrade and new case. I'd have sold the bike already if it wasn't so beautiful and unique. I park it in a lot of 25 bikes and it gets the most attention. Plus that sound it makes is addicting.

New here. I have an 00 v11 sport with an 02 motor and 00 gearbox. The case is cracked on the left side of the gear box mount. I have the tabs on my red frame that should have been attached to a bracket that attaches to the bell housing that guzzi forgot/didnt want to install on my bike. I ordered and have received said bracket from Motiv Cycle Works. I also plan to put a piece of tubing between the void in the gearbox mount to prevent future pinch stress cracks. What's the consensus on repairing the case? I've seen jb weld, alumi bond, aluminum and zinc flux coated braze rods, and aluminum braze rods with map gas as possible fixes. Anyone have any experience repairing the stress crack on the gear box next to the left side of the mount? I'm very expierenced in brazing copper pipe, soldering board level, I'm ok with a mig welder, but that's it. I bought some aluminum square stock and used my oxy acetylene rig with a #1 tip cold as I could get with some alum braze rods just to get a feel but I blew right through. Any advice welcomed and appreciated. Id love to take a day trip without a bottle of red line heavy shockproof in my backpack lol.