po18guy

The M60 has tracks while the V11 makes tracks.

They're in the spares box now. Came with them, but it seems that the bar-end mirrors have assumed their function.

Reading through the thread, I remember seeing this exact method used on some other paint-mixer bikes. Perhaps a rubber plug driven into the bar to a certain depth and then just fill the void with shot. Easy enough to alter the weight or undo. You want to change the harmonics of the bars at their ends and adding weight is the crude but effective way that even Honda have used. I ride my bike mostly 120kph on the freeway/interstate/motorway and 4K and above is a sweet spot. I have neuropathy in my hands and I would most certainly note any increase if the bars were a problem. The "Occam's Razor" method might be to switch to soft grips (Remember "Grab-On" foam grips in the 80s?) and attach much heavier bar ends. The caveat in my experience is that I have the OEM tapered (28mm > 22mm) high mount alloy bars which possess their own harmonic, plus Ken Sean folding bar-end mirrors (cheap but effective). I did have to fab up some Delrin bar inserts, since those which came with the mirrors were overly soft.

One more suggestion: OURY street grips. They are a block pattern, made of low durometer (soft) rubber. I use them on parallel twins with good effect. Mountain bikers use the MTB version to cushion the shock of dirt riding. Less than $15 on Amazon.

Indeed. Even if engineering does not solve a problem, it can explain it. EDIT: There are aftermarket bar-end makers that make extra heavy weights. This can go a good ways toward slowing the problem. Shorter bars reduce the leverage the vibration has on your hands, and even though solidly mounted, the clipon models of V11 'may' have a certain advantage here. Or may not. I know that my high barred Ballabio is not offensive as to bar vibes - but everyone's experience varies in this regard. I have bar-end mirrors installed, so they essentially replace the weights that were OEN. This is one company which makes heavy, stainless Guzzi weights that might be considered. $102 US/pair, but comfort is as comfort does, eh? http://www.hvmp.com/category-s/50.htm

Rev the engine in neutral and see what the entire bike does. In slow motion, one bar goes up and the other goes down. In that same plane, secondary imbalance wants to shake the bar ends up and down, except at 2X the engine RPM. This video regards the primary/secondary imbalance of twins - parallel twins in this case, but the principles of primary and secondary imbalance are explained. He is preparing a V-twin balance video, but we'll have to wait on that one.

I watched a few videos by speedkar99 on YouTube. He dismantles failed car engines. In particular, Audi and BMW engines are utter engineering and maintenance nightmares.

Pick the most boring and pedestrian of any maker's models and we see they sell a tonne of them. Plain Jane is the safe bet - although they do little to nothing for us true enthusiasts...(ahem!).

The big block was long ago assigned the "tractor" appellation. IMO, the small block should be in a Harbor Freight generator. Sorry, but it has always been underwhelming, from 350cc and onward. A little brother who was never allowed to grow up. IIRC, the last Heron heads used by a major manufacturer was Chev in their 348 and 409, and Mercury in their 383 and 430, late 1950s-mid 1960s. Even though the Heron has flown the head, the engine's goal is to run under the hurdle rather than to jump over it.

Industrial progress in Italy depends on the season of the year. It is always delayed if construction is occurring during strike season.

The Japanese will change specifications mid-year. They are very traditional, but have few mechanical traditions. Thus, if a better part is proposed, it goes in mid-year. In Mandello del Lario, I think that parts are more like a family affair, so the bits and pieces do not change all that much. Except...

What competition?

And a happy Christmas to you and your loved ones!

In 270º twins, as in 180º twins, one cylinder works slightly harder than the other , so idle exhaust temperatures will never be the same. Heavy flywheels help smooth that out.

That same situation caused quite a few fires in Honda CRVs and Elements. The old gasket would stick to the block, unnoticed by the technician. Then, double-gasketed, the seal would eventually blow out, spray the exhaust manifold 6" away and then poof! Was even a class action lawsuit over the design.

Docc, you're just riding on the wrong tires! Aside from traction, the big plus is that the suction cups popping drown out the tappets!

They are building a manufacturing facility in West Midlands, UK. DOHC, liquid cooled, 4 valve w/F.I. I think it will be a very pleasing thumper. They hint that there is more in the engine, so a clubman version might be in the works. Now that would be very cool.

I have learned to never throw a spring away. Shampoo and soap pumps have useful sized stainless springs in them.

So my plan is to make a port into the intake boot and give it a spritz of starting fluid. Or not. Actually, if you adjust the fast idle cam to minimum acceptable slack, you can get pretty fair opening with the lever. And, swap out that valve spring on the fast idle cam for say, a ball point pen spring. All it needs is just enough to retract the cam. Helps if the cable is well lubed. Fast idle can then be tweaked with the lever, without it "springing" to the off position. Oh, and for those running standard plugs, might try a set of Iridium. I noted quicker starts after swapping them out. The spark being less shrouded, they have an easier time firing a leaner mixture than the wide electrode OEM plugs.

Thank you. I ask because there are apparently some FI systems which send a primer shot through the injectors before cranking begins. I have cycled the key/pump on and off and on again and it does seem to fire off more quickly. It's the effect that might have on the pump and relays that makes me leery of the practice.

The M-M gives a prime shot when the pump hits, does it not?

Either crash just right or hydraulically bend. We have to trust the Italian frame jigs and the worker's willingness to seat everything properly at welding time. Suddenly I don't feel quite so confident... Actually riding interstate with one hand as I do causes more misalignment than I could ever correct for - if there was any adjustment, that is. Only time and tread wear tell the tale.

While we were aging (and perhaps not looking) all sorts of beard-growing and other hipsters and metro-types have taken a liking to such urban -retro bikes. I mean Honda catalogs the Grom as a sport bike! Nothing else surprises me.

Very nice stuff. Phil, is shipping from the UK prohibitive? A good maker there, of alloy/stainless/Ti hardware.