po18guy

Give Bike Colours UK a ring. They might very well have it. Their website is under maintenance, so email or telephone may be the best way to contact them. https://www.bikecolours.com/

My point is that if you bin the high cams and all of their drive bits, and just use the same old cam that rests where it always has, and pushrods the same length they've always been, there is less complication, less leaks, less maintenance. You have an 8V motor with the same redline. I am thinking aftermarket retrofit onto V11s. Keep the hard points of intake and exhaust port the same. Different head casting and pistons and you have an 8V with an 8K redline. Just musing here. But - Krauser did 4V heads for the air-head Beemers back in the 80s, and it was more difficult IIRC, as there was a pushrod angularity problem. Not so here.

USA? If so, English not so good. Also, they ship pets! Smells like spam.

Saved by the (la)bell...

Now you are simply trying (and successfully) to make us envious. Beautiful!

Good on the zinc then. I note that Valvoline stresses diesel, but also states that it is appropriate for gas engines. Having just turned 7K miles, and this being probably its 4th change, the motor is plenty clean inside. Well do I remember the wailing against detergent oils in the late 50s and early 60s. Many, believing it to be "the answer" poured it into horribly sludged up straight sixes and V8s, with the resultant clogging of filters, pump screens and even hydraulic lifters. Brother and I tore down some engines in which you could barely find iron for all the sludge.

Dad the pilot was a Valvoline guy. So, am perusing their applicable products. Cummins Diesel likes this oil, but I do not know their valve gear. https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/5a457451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/b240026d-0abd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 Zinc is shown as 1270ppm. Sufficient for flats?

Pre-take off report: "Two turning and two burning"?

Somone was thinking right! Cannot understand why Guzzi did not use a single throttle body with port injectors? - What synchronization? What idle balance? TPS and done. And, since we're reinventing the wheel, why not a 4V pushrod head? Although it would sacrifice some, the original port openings could be used. Just different (lighter) pistons to match the pent roof heads. Oh, daydreaming can end so abruptly and unsatisfyingly.

The house would profane that beauty. You need a shrine! Covered, insulated, heated and A/C...

Well, from the rider's eye view...YES! I did the meme for another forum to answer some bloke with a Ducati that suggested their shape as the male attractant. That a LMII or III? Going by the "face" that the gauges form.

Recently, I replaced an imploded valve cover gasket. Some prior F-1 mechanic had put washers under the guard at two of the four screw holes. And used two different thickness/O.D. washers at that. Thus, two of the four screws were then working to pull the guard down flush. When tightening such an "arrangement" the threads will feel soft, but are really pulling the guard down the 0.5-1.0 mm gap caused by the washers. My rule of thumb: Trust nothing and nobody who has touched your bike before. Not the engineers, assembly workers, prior owners or "mechanics."

I'm going to have to check a not-too-far-away Yamaha shop that had a lot of Givi stuff hanging on the wall. Maybe cut a deal (right...) on a bag, then find an Aprilia mount for it. OK, trivia: which year Aprilias use that tank cap pattern? As it is, I can't even get my tank bags to stick using static cling!

Hey, it turns out that spring making is easy! Well, sorta...

Sounds like the unit that same on my Ballabio. It's too short and the pivot is too close to the ground. Thus, you have to lift the bike about 2" until the stand goes over center. Hernia time. I roll the rear tire onto a flat 2X4 and that raises it just enough to be somewhat more easily deployed.

Way too much hassle to TIG a one inch extension onto the crossover. But, if you know a talented welder who's not too busy...

I see it stressing the headers where they exit the cylinder head. 20 pounds pressure one direction means 20 pounds the other when you let go. As I understand it, the headers are double thickness for 30 mm or so where they exit the head, precisely because of stress cracks. And we hear enough about crossovers and X-pipes cracking. I would think that the best solution (do you have rear pegs and their hangers?) would be to slot the various mounting holes as needed so as to eliminate the stress. Then, only a few pounds to counteract gravity when installing and you should be good. Eliminating the rear muffler-peg hangers gives you a lot more freedom in mounting. Something like a stainless closed body turnbuckle would suspend the mufflers while allowing fore and aft movement depending on the amount of pipe overlap you want. If the ends do not work, SS rod ends (Heim joints) could be substituted.

We're talking the same shape, but...

Was going to say, what are you building, your own wood-wing Bellanca or something?

Virtually all water evaporates at ambient (outside) temp, to think about it. If it didn't, I doubt we'd have any clouds. Anyway, the 100ºC/212F I suggested was only for a point of reference and was 1) within the gauge's range and 2) close to the temp of oil in a running engine. Mystery solved. Water evaporates. Oil evaporates, but in-laws never seem to.

Aha! So, it's Gravensteins to Red Delicious now!

All transverse crank twins, V or L, have at least some cooling issues under some circumstances. Back in the mid 60s, it was substantially worse due to poor oil in comparison with what we run today. At some point, that might (or might not)_ have occurred to Guzzi engineers. And, those big jugs radiate heat 360º in addition to the oil cooler. Do let us know what boiling water tests reveal as far as the readings of those two gauges.

The use of a high quality synthetic oil will also help ease any worries. It is not as affected by heat as even the best of mineral oils. It is specifically formulated for the higher running temps of so-called modern engines, particularly turbo engines which can be extremely hard on any oil. Synthetic evaporates less. Many engines, particularly air-cooled, that are considered to be oil burners are actually running hot enough that a fair percentage of the lost oil has evaporated. This is from the higher heat level and has the vaporized oil has simply been sucked into the intake via crankcase ventilation and burned, rather than by-passing the rings, as is often thought.

Consistent readings within a narrow acceptable range are a very good sign. I have wondered if I should mount a pair of 12V CPU fans in front of the oil cooler, but no apparent need. As to the difference between the Ducati and Guzzi gauges, one would first have to dip them both simultaneously in a liquid of known temperature to avoid the apples and oranges conundrum. If the gauges verify each other, then maybe the Ducati is intended to run cooler, or it may have a malfunctioning thermostat. As it is with our bodies, i.e. blood sugar, alkaline/base balance etc., too hot or too cool are both detrimental to our health. A little testing and consultation of normal op temps would be in order. As well, German made goods have their variations in quality control as well. Is one gauge an anomaly? One way to find out.

If not for the Staintunes there now, these are awfully tempting. Looks like they might be high mount or semi-high mount?