po18guy

Well, you of all people should know! I seem to recall something about an improved tensioner sold by someone.....?

Hmmm. Am wondering when the timing chains ceased being an imminent threat?

In the US, the Woodcraft company has been making various handlebar options for some decades. They have riser models up to 3". https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/clipon-risers/?page=1&rb_tags=2004-buell-xb12r-firebolt-esi7940075|fitment_universal

Best I ever did was 875 miles in one day - but that was on a Yamaha TX650 (XS650). 42 years ago. Anyway, I have a set of Motobits forward mount pegs that are pretty decent. I can post up some pics. EDIT: Failed to note for the OP that the lowered/forward pegs are off the bike and in a box and if he is interested, we can talk about them. I am also in Washington State, so not all that far away.

Speaking "Scottish" helps translate that.

Yeah, docc posted the listing. Is your Ballabio in the registry? One fine day we'll have an 'all Ballabio no Baloney' gathering. (Bologna for the Italophiles)

Ewan is only 49? He had the "old man" pegs installed! Lightweight! I got 19 years on him and I'm looking for rearsets!

They heard that an Aussie was coming!

In the past, I have gone down WoG (without gear). Young, foolish, ignorant, mostly happy. Ahh... but once again I digress. I prefer not crashing, but with gear if I must. Recently bought a couple of Spidi jackets for a relatively good price. They do not come with back protectors. Hmmm. Looked around and it seems that CorTech has one of the best accessory spine/kidney protectors, all things considered. It's called the Latigo and retails for about $90. Found a new w/tags example for less than half that, shipped to my house. Tried it today with the Spidi mesh jacket on an 80+ degree day: rural, freeway and traffic. Not bad. Was much cooler than I thought. Level 2 Euro protection level. (2 prior back surgeries), plus side "wings" for kidney protection (stage 3 kidney disease). You wear it like a back-pack and it also has a cross-chest strap to better hold it in place. Wide straps with elastic tensioners across the belly (yeah, that too). You know you are wearing something, but to me it feels pretty much like an elastic back support. T-shirt did not stick to my back, at ride's end, so it ventilates rather well. If I broke scapula, glenoid and right ribs 4-9 into 12 pieces using only 498cc, just imagine what 1064cc could do!

What is your intent for those other two transmissions? To sell with the caveat attached, sure. For yourself? Time-bomb trannies do not a touring gentleman make. MG, Harper's or someone who has the ability and desire to wind these springs up should have them listed in their online parts lists. Relying leaning on the tried and true forum members gets a little wearing on them.

"MT" = Master of Torque. Hard to argue with that. But, an MT03...? One is on his own there!

Had to sell it, once he figured out it wasn't a dope scale.

For my light duty torquing (300 in/lb - 35 Nm), I use a Consolidated Devices Inc./Snap-On 3002LDI dial torque wrench. It does not ratchet. It is not ergonomic. It measures torque. They are not prohibitive to purchase, but as always, are far less expensive on the surplus market. Dual scale on both directions. Resettable zero. Had a nicer example, but some local meth-heads stole it.

Got metal gaskets from MG. Two things: 1) The "mechanic" who last touched it used zero washers here, one there, two there. Sloppy work. The guard is apparently not supposed to have any washers under it (between it and the valve cover). This one had washers underneath the guard at both end screws and and none beneath the center screws. Thus the ends bolts were doing their job whilst the center bolts were attempting to pull the guard down into contact with the valve cover. Epic fail. 2) All such gasket failures I have seen show the failed gasket being sucked inward rather than blown outward. This is curious. Negative crankcase pressure? It is assembled correctly now and torqued properly using a CDI ex-aerospace dial torque wrench. I have two changes of metal gaskets should this or the other side fail. I suspect the right side is next, as the same shoddy workmanship is evidenced there, with washers being peppered about.

Again, thank you for standing in the Piaggio gap and easing our rides! I believe that all foreign mail is quarantined for two weeks. That seems to be the added delay for parcels from overseas. Now that the valve cover leak has been fixed, looking for another nice day to swap that shift extender out. In any case, I cannot get the shifter height (shaft length) adjustment to budge, so off it will come for some tough love. Is it just coincidence that my hammer collection is now bigger (and heavier) than ever…???

That I know. I read and have posted their "reconditioning" protocol. They need a minimum of 6 amps. I figure 10 will do it, if watched carefully. If I fry it, I'll just go back to Yuasa AGM, as they are not as weird and my last one lasted 9 years with no extra care required. .

Will be primarily for conditioning, as regular riding keeps the battery up.

I very much like Jason and the Scorchers. Part of the reason is obvious.

Hearing of the charging amperage requirements of the Odyssey battery, I did not want to lay out the bux for an "approved" charger. Ya' see, I had a perfectly good Schumacher rollabout charger that will do 2/10/40/200 amps. Not worried about the 40 and 200 here. 10A seems about OK. But, it has only those huge automotive battery clamps on it. So, I picked up an SAE connector w/10AWG leads and wired them to the output of the charger. They lead to a covered, polarized outlet that I mounted on the front panel for access. Now, amping up is that much more convenient. But 10amps through an SAE connector does have me wondering a bit. We'll find out on that. Will have to be used in concert with a volt meter to ensure staying at or below 15V. Got some leather tool holsters for the automotive clamps so as to avoid shorting. They'll go on the sides.

What's a guy to do if his compression tester has only 18mm and 14mm threads, but his bike (Kawi 500) has 12mm plugs? Well, what fits better than a spark plug? Gutted the plug, squared off the top on my handy-dandy drill press, tapped 14 X 1.25, filled the cavern with JB weld and drilled through it, slipped a high pressure viton O-ring on and there ya' go.

OK, alloy then. That certainly stretches...

I wish the prior owners of Big Red would have tried that. The handlebar caps (same but smaller) look like vise grips were used on them. Little matter, as. I will be replacing the bolts with some nice tumble polished SS from RaceboltUK.

We Luddites have trouble coping. The .027 (inches) is from my Chevy small block days.

Will let you know how hot glue on the end of a wood dowel works. If it can pull dents then it should...but MG might have used a hydraulic press to install it.

Comma is "point" in Eurospeak. In decimals, it's .027559, but .027 or .028 is good enough fur us 'Murricans. Tried Iridium plugs? First thing I did and noticed quicker starts. It has Autolites now, but I have NGKs at the ready just in case. I have obtained 40mpg at 70-80mph on the freeway - which might not be stellar, but not bad for the old lump, considering it is still breaking in.