po18guy

You have me thinking. DW thanks you for that! Anyway, all of the diagrams I have seen and owner input here suggest that the top four screws have washers while the guard screws have none, either above or below. The top screws are all one length and the guard screws all of the same longer length. Will try to remember to measure them. That is how I am reassembling it and that makes sense. True enough, but how is this situation helped by placing washers under the head guard at its ends and omitting them in the middle at the leak point? Before I pulled her down, I re-torqued the cap screws. The screw at the rear end of the leak point tightened ever so slowly, with that "it's about to strip" feeling. Now I know why: It was essentially trying to pull the guard down into contact with the valve cover. That is simple mechanic's negligence. I miked the height of the bosses on the valve cover and all were nominally the same - thus, no washers needed. What was the fellow thinking - or not thinking? As well, gasket compression is another issue and re-torquing may be old school, but it can never hurt. To assuage any impinged upon nerves, I received the metal core gaskets from MG today. A clear improvement and dirt cheap for a European bike with such idiosyncratic construction. Short of a Japanese style gasket with flanges to keep it in place, they are the clear solution. I recall here that the Japanese entered the industrial age by copying known designs and since their unchanging and inscrutable cultural traditions did not extend to the arena of industrial manufacture, they quickly analyzed and solved problems such as leaking gaskets. I have a 1987 Kawi EX500/GPz500S. Has the original cam cover gasket and it shows no sign of needing replacement. Neither does it leak. However, the Japanese tend toward the rational rather than the passionate.

Hard to forgive H-D for what they did to him. He would be a nice follow on to Dr. John Wittner. As I recall, the doctor did a few positive things for M-G. Ah, but there were different owners then...

I have an assortment of the green "high pressure" O-rings for car/truck HVAC use. They appear to be viton - rather higher durometer than the usual nitrile - so would be appropriate for Guzzi crank sensors and that kind of stuff. 390º was their designated limit for that material. Boeing experience you say? I was in tooling in the 70s until I found a steady job in the government Dad spent 38 years there, ending up in Experimental and Test (B-3410 for any Boeing types) in a small building adjacent to the runway. He enjoyed the heck out of it, as the shop was a microcosm of the manufacturing process, with early CNC, heat treat furnace, autoclave, A&P welders etc. He told me stories of the various times he had to demonstrate to certain engineers that two objects cannot occupy the same physical space.

Here is a nifty chart listing the strengths and weaknesses of the various compositions of O-rings. https://www.globaloring.com/o-ring-materials-comparison-chart/ Located in Texas, they claim to have 50 million O-rings in stock - except for Guzzi sizes. OK, just guessing there...

#112 O-rings? Here's 5 for $2.50 free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/112-O-ring-1-2-ID-x-11-16-OD-x-3-32-thick-Buna-70-Quan-5/293205984259?hash=item4444704403:g:d-EAAOSwlTBdaBQt.

Got tired of being landlocked, so I found a not-rainy day and pulled the left valve cover. Hmmmm. Problem obvious, but what was the cause? Ya' know, you'd think that a well-paid professional mechanic would take some pride in his work. Of the top four bolts, one had a washer that was clearly from some other source, being twice as thick. One other had two washers. Now as to the bolts holding the head guard, two had washers beneath and two did not. How do you suppose that affected the clamping force? And these are the thicker (#6139 0.8mm) gaskets. Went immediately to the surface plate. The guard is flat. Good. After using my favorite beverage (Methylene Chloride) to soften and remove what was left of the old gasket on the cover, I flattened it with a few strokes atop 320 wet or dry on the surface plate. It wasn't bad but a little freshening could not hurt in the flatness arena. A little 3M 8008 gasket maker on the cover, and a sparing amount of Mobil1 synthetic grease on the head side and back together we went. 10 N-m and all was good. Went for a 30 mile/45Km thrash on the freeway/Interstate/Autobahn/Auto Strada and all remained nice and dry. Today, I re-torqued the cover bolts and noted that they would move at 7-8 N-m, so the sandwich I made of them had compressed a bit. Looked at the right side and 3 out of 4 bolts had washers beneath the head guard. Ugh. Since the right side is not leaking, I will let sleeping dogs lie and catch that one at next service. Sure glad I didn't pay for that "maintenance."

I describe the Ballabio as the red-haired step-child of the Guzzi family and that's not far off. By comparison, the '99-'01 Sports have a more integrated, compact (is that even possible?) look at the front end. The fairing is the subject of discussion. From straight on, it's not my favorite, but from the front 3/4 view, I think it looks rather nice. It does block a fair bit of wind at my favorite 120km/hr riding pace. The rest of the bike is standard '03 and onward OEM stuff. Is it possible that the reported instability of the short-framed bikes was compensated for by the longer frame, slightly more conservative geometry, and frame-mounted rather than fork-mounted gauges and fairing? I recall here the infamous tank-slapping early Kawasaki police bikes, said problem resolved by frame mounting the fairing. For a bike named for the hillclimb victory, I can understand the high bars, but you'd think the suspension would be upgraded. As well as something stating, proclaiming, even boasting Italy - but no. A little script on the tailpiece and that's it. However, nothing in the Guzzi lineup makes perfect sense - nor should it, nor should we expect it to.

We are on the fringe here. ""Most" of the small block Guzzi buyers are more toward the hipster mainstream, and that is what parent Piaggio wants. They are a scooter company and urban appliances are their forté. As I see it, the newer bikes have probably been subjected to focus groups and marketing studies. Homogenized 2-wheeled McDonald's hamburgers. Satisfying many but exciting (or offending) none. Guzzi exists and for that reason we should derive some satisfaction, and Aprilia had things moving in the right direction until they fell on hard times. If I had to guess, Piaggio bought the company with the idea of exploiting the name and. history, using that horrible business philosophy of "brand management." A certain American company has done the same, licensing their name to Ford, clothing manufacturers, glassware, jewelry - everything but better bikes. Alas, it seems that they are also in dire straits now, despite appearances. My proposal is to hire Erik Buell and allow him to offend a few and inject some lightness and performance into the current commuter bikes. Speaking of which and totally off subject: back when Buell introduced the Harley-powered XB9 and XB12 Firebolts, I examined one and sat on it at the international motorcycle show in Seattle that year. Despite the horrid engine, that bike fit and felt perfect - as very few do when subjected to the "fit" test. Daydreaming is satisfying - else we would not spend to much time involved in it. I somehow doubt that the board of Piaggio is capable of it.

Certainly does sound like a poor connection in the primary voltage. I recently had an odd low-current starting problem after a 40 mile freeway ride and a 15 minute rest. Engine barely turned over but did eventually start. I cleaned and tightened the battery terminals, the starter cable at the starter and tightened the ground cable at the transmission. All better, so it was apparently somewhere in there. Will still have to remove, clean and reconnect the ground at the transmission, as I did not completely remove it. But still, starting is fine.

Is the physical size of the Purolator an issue, or is it OK?

Until then, here is the comparison of the "recommended" motorsports filter and the "Boss" PBL14476. The Boss is claimed to be their best. Given the dimensions, threads, etc, is that enough to figure it out? I note that on amazon, the Boss is actually cheaper by a buck or two.

So, the take-a-way is: 1. Change your oil. 2. Use a filter. Seems simple enough. So why does the Ford/Chevy debate always rage on? As Guzzi owners, I get the impression that we are all part of a widely dispersed somewhat dysfunctional but very passionate Italian family. And having grown up across the street from some 1st generation Italian Americans, arguing among them is an art form. EDIT: Well, it's all academic now, if it wasn't before. Ordered the metal gaskets, 2 Hiflo filters and the double secret key to the mysterious door in the sump which holds the filter. All from MG, as I'm sure they can use the business. Even though the filter is enclosed, I am reminded of Cycle Magazine's comments in their test of the original 850 LeMans. "18 bolts and a glass of Perrier" to access the filter - what? No San Pellegrino?

According to MG, the production alternates between 8 and 14 flutes. So, two wrenches then? Am thinking that my uni-wrench from Cycle Gear might work in either case.

It might have a pair of those legendary, über rare factory liquid cooled cylinders. (OK, I made that up). Still, would do nothing for the cherry red headers. Maybe these blokes thought up the header wrap...

Prego! Hey, while we're here, any practical difference between HiFlo and the OEM Ufi oil filters? Inquiring minds and guzzinoobs wanna know...

They're not really lights, but reflectors. The glow from the cylinder heads and exhaust helps light the way - for a mile or so.

It's for riders who like to illuminate their big jugs. The upper is a repop of a Magni half fairing or something. The lower is pure garage rock. But, what would it do to the cylinder head temp?

Ah, thank you much! That clears it up completely and I am surprised that they are not $100 each!

I contacted MG and... "But they are actually manufactured by a company like Sesallt or Centauro. Maybe Athena Moto Gasket. Many places make gaskets, Valpolini is not one of them. I think in the link you provide, you'll see the words "Moto" and "Gasket" printed on the gasket. Those are Athena. Point is, that the gasket is .8mm, rather than the standard .5mm stock Guzzi gasket. That's why those people swear by them." MG also has the coated metal gaskets, but lists them only for the post-V11 models (Breva, Griso, Norge). Is this what we are speaking of and is it compatible with the V11? https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4634:18fc72d8b8aba03a4d84f66efabce82e

Is there a favorite goop to apply to the gaskets, just install them bare or??? I generally use either synthetic grease, or 3M gasket maker (8001 or 8008), which keeps the cylinder head of my '87 Kawi 500 (with original rubber head cover gasket) leak-free.

Hasn't happened, but am heading out to check my shock reservoir position as we speak!

I hope it doesn't drain back via the pushrod cavities! If ever an engine needed a dry sump! But, more complexity it needs not.

I wonder about crankcase pressure. Those are pretty big pistons displacing 1064cc in both directions. Have not done tank-off yet, so I don't know the crankcase vent system. But, whoever did the initial valve adjust either left the valve covers slightly loose, the gaskets compressed and needed re-torquing, or both. Have new gaskets, but would rather ride right about now. Like an XS650, pretty easy when the time comes. As to cleaners, I didn't think SuperClean was quite strong enough. Purple Power seems stronger, and less damaging to finishes than S-100.

Rode big red about 5 miles and parked it. Came back 5 minutes later and saw drops on the ground. Originally thought it was A/C condensation from the car before me. On the ride home, got a little squirrelly on a left turn. Hmmm. At home, the left side is dripping oil. What? OK, where's it coming from? Mind racessSS$$$. Trace it uphill, right? Stops at the left valve cover. But, all of a sudden? Pondered quizzically for a moment - then glanced at the name on the tank. Ah. Tightened the valve cover bolts which were not really loose, but not really tight. Now, to S-100 the left side, focusing on the rear tire and disc. I try to avoid the paint with S-100 as it is rather stout stuff and dulls the sheen.

The Red Green show!