po18guy

Ah, had to be a reason. They were sky-high on many of their other parts anyway.

They seem to be gone, but here is a set from an '04 Cafe Sport being parted out in Cali. Blowout price of $143.95 shoppe to CONUS: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Throttle-Body-Bodies-Intake-Assembly/362925598507?fits=Model%3AV11&epid=4037097677&hash=item54800d272b:g:GOQAAOSwhcZeVMJT

Frame-mounted shifter pivot, it looks like.

IIRC, the seller had the TBs and wanted something like $250 for them(?)

Back? Sooty? Rich or oil. Since you're already in there, and if compression is good, then you could swap injectors side-for-side and see if the trouble follows.

From reading here and on EnerSys's website, basically, you drain it with a load to 10V then immediately recharge using a 6A+ charger, never exceeding 15V charging current, until it reads something like 14.2-14.4 volts. The high amp chargers are needed as the AGM is able to absorb a charge much faster than standard, flooded lead-acid batteries - and - because the rapid charge absorption can 'knock the stuffing' out of any sulphated areas, possibly re-activating them. The low voltage is not damaging if only for a short duration. It is the long-term low-voltage periods that can cause irreversible/non=-recoverable sulphation on the plates. Or something like that. Yesterday (one page back) at 12:53 PM, the "official" re-conditioning instructions from EnerSys are posted. Here are two short YouTube vids.

By comparison, the XS650 is a reliable appliance. Alternator brushes every 15K or so and ride. As to Guzzi, I suspect that the company's products emerged from some sort of bizarre Fellini-esque drama-noir tale of death by slow descent into madness.

Time, time permitting... What I did do was check the starter cable which was, say, snug but not tight at the starter. So off it came, wire brushed both sides of the cable lug, nut and washer, as well as the threads on the starter. Once tight, a swab of 3M silicone grease on the metal bits and silicone spray on the boot. Next up were the cable lug at the battery end and the terminal of the battery. Once they were shiny, all was snugged up and routine starting was restored. Time permitting (New kitchen sink and faucet are job1) I'll pull the tranny ground cable and do likewise. The starter bolts as well, as it appears to ground to the engine cases. While poking around, lubed the side stand so it is now slicker than cow slobber. Still clanks against the un-rotatable header clamp bolt, so pondering that, as the snubber bolt is hiding behind the header.

Indeed, if compression and spark are fine, and manometer/tps readings et al are within spec, you could also think about having the injectors pulled and ultrasonically cleaned.

Have you done a compression check? Maye it's not fuel or spark. Easy enough, in any case.

The ground at the trans was tight, but I gave the hex wrench a little tug just in case. 30A fuse was fine. Loosened, wiggled and tightened the battery terminals. Started fine all day. Still, will pull the starter bra off and check that connection. Am wondering if battery temp affect power flow? IMhas to be extremely cold or oerheated - neither of which was the case on a 60ºF day. I might just use an IR thermometer next time to see.

I had a Pennsylvania-made Yuasa AGM die on me last year. I was beginning to grumble until I checked and found that it had been in service for 9 years. Ooops. 2.5¢ per day/75¢ per month is pretty cheap for reliable starting. Now to go back through the thread and find the exact procedure. I do have a Schumacher 2/10/40/200 amp charger-starter and decent multimeter.

Just for giggles, here is the official conditioning procedure.

Somewhere in the cosmos, it makes perfect sense that the world's quirkiest motorcycle operates best (or not at all) with the quirky battery. Well, I have 13.10 resting and 14.30 at various RPM. Was it a hissy fit? Who knows? Wish there was a way to check specific gravity - unless that no longer matters in this mystical world of voltage and amperage. Am tempted to buy a Yuasa AGM, as those are more "Japanese" I guess. Still, I'll check the date code and do their arcane conditioning. I thought we were through with that when we tossed NiCad batteries in the bin...

I rode the 40+ miles to the "big city" and parked the bike for 30-40 minutes. Back to the bike, it barely cranked the engine over. Hmmmm. Did I leave it in the "park" position? Nope and with LEDs, that should not have been a worry for 40 minutes in any case, I would think. Rode home no problem - so probably not the charging system - and the batt shows 13.0v at rest. Started up, it read something like 13.5, but steadily rising up to about 13.78, when I shut the bike off (no cooling fan yet). So, looks like time for conditioning or replacing. I don't really know the history of the battery. But, I see that Odyssey has an "Extreme Series" PC545MJ out, which is supposedly a cut able their classic model. $118 amazon Prime.

What I have learned: It's not the pixels, as they are in the multi-millions - maybe billions for all I know. Anyway, I've read that the increase in quality comes from improvement in the plain old glass or plastic used in the lenses. An example: A friend showed me an iPad pic of an office with several people smiling for the posed picture. A compute monitor was in the background, but kinda fuzzy, I thought. Until he zoomed in and I realized that the info on the monitor could easily be read. Whoa!

Welcome! Also in my 60s and still have the original 1977 850 LeMans brochure and Cycle Magazine test that started the desire. Got married shortly thereafter and kids after that. Since 2008, after 11 years of accumulating a nightmare medical resumé, I decided it was time or I would never have the chance. Wasn't entirely sure which model I wanted, but found an '04 Ballabio that had been babied. I saw it. I caved. Up in NH, with those roads, you'll love it.

Love the straight-cut gear whine. The price for such a limited edition, custom set, not so much. So, maybe the upgraded cam chain adjuster and we'll call it good.

Other than when used as turbo header wrap, the pipe wrap is basically the same as biplane rear wings and thug life glasses.

Bad? No - just advisable if not necessary! Am guessing that better coils are available. Would do coil-on-plug, but then I would need "Overwidth Vehicle" flags and flashing yellow lights.

As to Brisk, I know that they are expensive. Watching a YouTube video, it seems to be an update of the old Kawasaki "Surface gap" anti-fouling plugs from the two-stroke triple days. There seems to be an intermediary laser imprinted band of something conductive around the porcelain between the center and multi-ground electrodes. Plus, Brisk also makes an Iridium version - prolly costs more than my bike. Am guessing that the V11 could benefit from something like Dyna coils, as the OEMs were (probably) marginal at best, and the loopy round-the-back-side routing only weakens the spark. Typical hot rod stuff, really.

I have a quirky spiritual link to Iridium plugs, but in a really twisted sort of way. Iridium is in the platinum spectrum and is the most erosion resistant metal known. One of the chemotherapy drugs I received (13th, 14th or 15th depending on how you count) was a platinum-based drug called Carboplatin so, I don't know, the connection just kinda stuck. Now the M&M ignition/injection is not all that sophisticated and we'll have to see how long they go before one of the cylinders cries "fowl!"

In opposition, I have removed the OEM plugs and installed Iridium. I noted quicker starts right off the bat. On DW's Lexus, the NGK Iridium originals went 250K before replacement, and we noticed zero difference. Now, I'll grant that the MG combustion chamber is more akin to a 1930s Pratt & Whitney radial than to a liquid-cooled 4-valve Japanese chamber, but anytime you can unshroud the spark in such a deep chamber, I figure it's worth a try. I also note that the MG engineers were negligent in not placing the plugs on the pushrod side of the head - making them Italo-easy to change.

You have more interesting motorbikes in Norway. In the US, the average dealer has a bunch of rather boring bikes. They seem to be either worn out Japanese sportbikes or 400 kilo Harley's with a trailer behind. Much more difficult to find something "interesting."

Nice! Well, as to price, whaddya wanna pay? That could be made a faux Scura or Coppa with a paint job, since it has the "Ó" and carbon bits. As to mileage, it seems there are the 30-40-50K "rider" bikes and then the garage/house candy that is not even broken in. Nevertheless, they are where you find them.