po18guy

OK. I dragged out my official V11 Workshop Manual. It is far less specific , um, organized than, say, Japanese manuals, which seem to specify the torque of everything in one section. It enumerates most torque values on one page - but then males you search section by section for the rest. The triple clamp values are followed by the standard toque figures for (apparently) non-critical bolts and nuts. Triple Clamp Torque Values: Lower Triple clamp bolts 25 Nm Upper Triple clamp bolts 25 Nm Standard Torque Values: Screws and nuts ø 4 3-3.5 Nm Screws and nuts ø 5x0,8 6-7 Nm Screws and nuts ø 6x1 8-12 Nm Screws and nuts ø 8x1,25 25-30 Nm Screws and nuts ø 10x1,5 45-50 Nm

Was thinking that maybe the factory serial numbered the warranted trannies to see if any of them came back, or what issues they developed. Who knows?

I posted this elsewhere, but across the street from MG at Mistral is the bike they could have made. A custom Centauro, but they killed that basic model off, too. Look, we're not going Duc hunting - we just want lighter therefore quicker, handling and some looks. It's OK if it's a parts bin bike. Hello, Piaggio??? Anyone home?

If all other sources fall through, I do live near Renton Coil Spring, which does race car and aerospace stuff - being right next to Boeing. Browsing their site might bring a tear to any machinists, metalurgists or other cutting oil and metal shaving-covered types out there. Would not be cheap, but other than carrying spares and installing the shift cover with Dzus fasteners for roadside repairs, what's a bloke to do? Also know of a fellow who has a certain shop make batches of gun springs for him.

Could that perhaps have been a warrantied unit?

Well, not exactly like that. Maybe a pseudo MGS-01 that was reasonable, road-legal and 'semi' affordable. 100HP. 450+/- Pounds. They could easily do it. They simply choose not to. So, if we are not into adventuring, touring or cruising, we are stuck with V11s. I'll readily admit that there are much worse places to be stuck.

I fully realize that the flip side of 'which to ride' is 'which to wrench on'.

Oh, which Guzzi to ride? What mood am I in? I sure wish I had your "problem"!

Anyone here also active on Wildguzzi Guzziriders or any other local regional or national clubs? Might be some interest to be generated there.

Browsing around, I stumbled onto Agostini Mandello and they offer this crossover for $275 plus, you know. Anyone know who makes it? Sadly, it looks likely to crack.

Some of his stuff is on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/sch/jjkpguzzi/m.html?item=352845948013&hash=item522741e46d%3Ag%3AG2wAAOSwloJcs6MX&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

I will attempt to keep tally of how many are wanted. I will gladly pay in advance. 1. po18guy (2) springs. 2. Flooky (2) springs 3. Stumble_t (2) 4. PhillipLarsen (2) 5. MGrego (2) 6. 80CX100 (2) 7. Bob Maynard (2) 8. BelAir63 (2) 9. Motormike (2) 10. JBBenson (2)

If you are wrench happy, you could swap the crossover and see.

Doing fairly well, with 2 out of the 5 in my garage.

Might be mistaken, but the Guzzi OEM red wires are NGK. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

But 3.5mm case thickness. Of all the places for Guzzi to try to save weight!

IMO, the older the engine design, the weaker the igntion system, the longer the plug leads - all are valid reasons to install Iridium plugs. I am hedging my bet, but I installed Autolite Iridium XS plugs to try out. Starting immediately improved. Visually, even engineering-wise, there is virtually no difference between them and NGK or ND. Except they are made in North America, there are no Chinese counterfeits running around and they are about $7/pair in the US. Sure beats $15/ea. Redline Motorsports in sunny South Carolina is blowing them out for the princely sum of $7.12 per pair w/free shipping. But, I also was patient and scored a pair of NGK Iridiums to have on hand. Comparoing them to the OEM NGKs, it is easy to see that he spark is far less shrouded than with the standard plug. Perhaps there would not be as big a difference with carbs, but with the finely (haha!) metered MM injection, that mixture needs all the access to the spark that it can get. Being familiar with Italian electrics since the late 60s, I might just take MotoLectric up on their cables.

Here is the answer I received from MotoLectric: We use plain copper because when put under multi-ton pressure the copper from the terminals grows into the copper of the wire and they merge into one mass. It’s called cold welding and is done in some other electrical industries. In a vacuum, you can actually put 2 flat pieces of copper together and they instantly merge and there is no 2 pieces anymore, they are now 1 piece. We have planned to document that that is why we use the bare copper but it is on a long list of tasks yet to be done. We actually coat the exposed copper with a Shield product that seals the surface. I have the details below. Tinned terminals and wire is less conductive as tin only flows 15% the current that copper will flow and the crimps are not as good as the tinned copper takes more pressure due to the hardness of the tin vs. copper. The lower current flow of the tin is not a super big deal but every little detail adds up and we want to make the best circuit upgrade we possibly can. ——— [Special shipping update / new version announcement - We are constantly striving to improve our products and we were in the midst of revising the kits (slightly) and you are receiving the very latest design. We now apply a new surface sealant during fabrication of the kit and it replaces the dielectric grease - > (the grease is no longer included in the kit). We found that some riders were forgetting to apply the grease and just leaving the copper bare. This coincides with our product name change to HICAP•SCDC High Capacity • Sealed Current Distribution Circuit This new high technology treatment seals the copper surfaces against harsh environments and so the circuit is 100% sealed. The new version kit has a colored tiewrap through a positive terminal hole because although the chemical is blue in quantity, the treatment is invisible after it bonds to the metal. ——— Thanks,M./Michael Heth1 (415) 992-7840

Since electrons flow on the surface of the wire, could tarnishing or corrosion limit that? Maybe that is what they meant? I recall here also that the cheapest vendor is used on almost all ancillary components and battery lead wires are not likely to be an exception. I also see no tin plating, but perhaps a swab of NoCo or other similar corrosion preventative would do the trick? I have emailed them to see what they say. https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html As to starting in 'one second', well, they are clearly used to port injection. The V11 throttle body injectors squirt quite a ways upstream from the chambers. So far, the best starting aid I have found is Iridium plugs. Noticeably better.

A little retro-thinking here about the tranny crack. From the location and direction of the crack, could it be that the torque being transmitted "stretched" the case as the final output is trying to pull the case away from the mount? A 3.5mm thickness next to the mount boss seems almost certain to go at some point, what with the torque pulses softly hammering away on the alloy. I'm new to MG but one thing immediatley noticeable is that the torque impulses are not resolved into the frame as with transverse engines. Rather than lifting the frame, it is a twisting force. But, I'm a noob, so my thinking may be skewed here.

A bit - OK a big bit - of a stretch, but for the mechanically minded with cash to spare, an '04 Cafe Sport in San Fran for $3500obo with full Ôhlins. Does not look bad, and with 24k (if true), still a relatively fresh bike. Would love to buy it, swap suspension and sell it with my Marzocchi/Sachs bits on it. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/d/san-francisco-2004-moto-guzzi-v11-cafe/7013378638.html

It almost seems like Guzzi designed the entire bike and then thought, "Oh crap! We forgot the coils! Well, the only space left is up front, so we'll just use 1 meter cables." Scenario: Officer: "I was going to let you off with a warning, but I see you're using RACING plug wires!"

I think this is why high-mount cans are a good thing. They rise above all the action - suspension action, that is.

Easy: 1. That impact occurred by design at the factory. 2. Nothing.

Welcome to Guzzi! It's a matter of understanding the Latin mindset. To paraphrase the old joke about the Italian driver pulling the rear view mirror off his car and tossing it in the back set: "What'sa behind me, I no care about" Of note here is that the brackets on the Staintune cans on my Ballabio are at different angels. Note the swingarm on this custom. The pic clearly shows that the wheel is centered but the drive requires that the right side of the swingarm and all around it has to be kicked out for clearance.