po18guy

Since both are momentary switches, I could reverse the high beam flasher and horn, but that would leave me with a rather oddly actuated horn. This will require some pondering.

They do stand up just a bit. It is very close to the red used by other Italian makers. Am thinking of finding a close match and doing a wrap of the (removable) seat cowl. Maybe stripes or swooshes of fluorescent orange flanking the headlight in homage to the original 850 LeMans. Nothing permanent - just the vinyl wrap.

While it would work, there is still the underlying problem of excess voltage or excess resistance. I forget if you have checked battery and alternator voltage/amperage?

Thank you very much! Your greenie is likewise very nice. It was a garage queen. 4500 miles in 15 years. a quick Meguire's tech wax and what you see is what I got. Here's a close up of the tank. They got the paint right! Danged horn button! Clearly, Italian riders use the horn far more than they use their signals. Horn and signals need to be reversed, but I see no way of doing that. Maybe Euro-spec switches made more sense, unless these are Euro-spec. Still twiddling with bits here and there, to get it just right. Shift-lever adjustment is my latest hair-puller.

How do the wires themselves look? Would almost bet that it is a Chinese fuse holder. For some reason, their materials do not seem to be up to spec. Has anyone tried a Mosfet regulator? Over on the Kawi EX500 forum, they are the solution to fried rectifiers and cooked batteries. Even though Guzzi puts the rectifier (at least on my bike) right up front in the cooling air, they do need to shed a lot of heat. The Mosfet regulation seems to avoid that.

Knowing Guzzi, there may be a different offset due to different forks used, but I am just guessing. I believe they are all 320s and the bolt circle is the same, but offset can make a difference.

That apparent word is that the discs with the circular cutouts in the carriers tended to warp. Total guess here, but the later V11 units with the triangular cutouts would most likely retrofit. Here are some brand new gold series Brembos at a good price, considering they are coming from Italia. Also, there are quite a few used later V11 discs on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Disc-Floating-Brembo-Front-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Ballabio-1100-2003-2006/362487814082?epid=18025840829&hash=item5465f517c2:g:VmAAAOSwNqRb7Zz2 A pair of Sifam(?) from Italy, for '97-'00: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-Front-Brake-Discs-Motorcycle-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-1100-1997-1998-1999-2000/383113170577?hash=item5933530e91:g:NHUAAOSwvvVc6QhR And EBC listings - they do specify left or right in the listing, so there must be some difference. https://www.ebay.com/sch/177922/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=ebc+discs+guzzi+v11 A set from an '02 LeMAns with 18K miles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Front-Left-Right-Brake-Rotors-Discs-OEM/254255897491?fits=Model%3AV11&hash=item3b32d51b93%3Ag%3AT3QAAOSwNINc-VZe%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityFlatRateBox!98022!US!-1&LH_ItemCondition=4

Here are some pics of the Ballabio fairing and mounts.

Well, let's hope it is still available, since the thread is from 2011-2012.

Was actually considering wither a Duc 937cc SS or an Aprilia Shiver 750/900. Aside from cost, both are nearly as heavy as a V11. The Aprilia in particular has always been a disappointment. They do so amazingly well with their Milles and Tuonos and such, but when it comes to the smaller bikes, they avoid taking them to the fat farm.

Precisely what I was thinking. Givi is good stuff, but you pay for it. Sadly Givi offers nothing in their current lineup for the "ancient" V11. http://www.giviusa.com/my-motorcycle/moto-guzzi However, I'll bet a call or email would net something usable.

Guzzis have come both with fork-mounted and frame mounted fairings. Since Guzzi has long had a wind tunnel, and since there were some claims of high-speed instability on the early (short) V11s, one prospect may be that they removed the fairing's influence upon the steering and mounted it to the frame so that any force produced by the fairing would be fed to the frame rather than the steering. Just a guess.

Not that it would directly help, but if you need pics of the Ballabio setup, let me know.

The mount holes appear to be in the correct position for a Ballabio. The left-right adjustment screw relief hole as well. It appears to have 5 windshield mount screws, which is consistent with a Ballabio. Also depends on the original color. If it was red and the silver sprayed over, it might just from a Ballabio. If it was silver and the red sprayed over, well all bets are off. As to the frame mount used on the Ballabio, MG went to an awful lot of trouble to design and cast up/machine the rather massive frame mount, which also holds the signals. But that mount, by itself, was deemed to be insufficient, as a V-shaped tubular mount extends from that cast mount up to the center windshield screw on each side, to steady the top of the screen.

No muffler, that is a reverse cone megaphone on the Wildcat Scrambler. What I did not know was that Parilla used the Gran Sport road racing motor in the Wildcat. Some noise and some fun!

OK, thanks! CBX stuff will go for sure, as many of them are now in restoration.

Fast sale! Any other parts that you can identify?

Quite right! I had just been viewing the Parilla DOHC diagram. Did the Guzzi V8 have so many gears? I must say that 11 years and 20 different chemo drugs have scrambled my egg, so to speak.

Hmmm... let's see: air cooled cylinder, high cam, short pushrods opening valves via rockers - something about it is just so familiar. Ah yes! It seems that Giovanni Parrilla might have had the idea first. But bevel gears* (see correction - thanks Pete) and shaft was his choice of drive. Back in the day, I lusted after a 250 Wildcat scrambler.

Well, I stand corrected! Thank you. As always seems to happen, I should have specified that my experience is limited to V8 car engines.

Way old thread, but back to timing setups. First cup of coffee musing here. HQ gears should last the life of the engine, but such gears - think transmission quality or above - would cost near the value of the bike. Straight cut gears are more efficient than helical (no thrust), but give you that "NASCAR" V8 sound. Lovely for around town, but tiring when droning along. Alloy gears? If we go back 60+ years to the Studebaker car V8s, we find a fiber cam gear! And I know of no failures driving 16 valves for 100K. Rather mild cam profiles I'll grant you, but their performance "Avanti" cam gear was helical alloy. The engineering on the Studes was such that there was crank gear directly meshing with cam gear - nothing in between and no tensioner needed. Where does that leave us? I tend to think that racing engines (fairly frequent tear downs) need gears, while street engines need a good tensioner. Being an owner, have prowled the Kawasaki EX500 forum for many years and cam chain tensioners were a big issue on the gen1 ('87-'93) motors. Fortunatel, the bulletproof gen2 unit swapped right on. They have the silent hy-vo chains and many of them go 100K miles if properly maintained. Says something about the chains in what was essentially a commuter/throw away bike. And this is with the lumpy 180º/540º firing interval they have. I am of the mind that a good aftermarket tensioner will serve me well. Timing setup that Andy Granatelli used to go 168 MPH in a 1963 Avanti. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YG8pdR6VAXw

I note that my ''04 Ballabio has distinctly limited steering lock. Makes U-turns quite interesting and something to practice. At full lock, there is at least 12mm/ one-half inch of clearance between forks and tank. Could it partially be the slightly longer frame? Suspension adjustments can make a huge difference. Due to too many back surgeries, I softened the rear dampening and it made quite a difference - but do one adjustment at a time and ride it.

+1 I signed up and have not been disappointed one bit. Once you are used to it, it's a breeze, doing almost all the work for you.

Either way, having a spare is a good thing. I don't care if they're $20 each. What is the value of not having to tear the bike down? Of not being stranded in a single gear?

There is a DOT manufacturer's date code molded into the sidewall of the tire. It will usually say "DOT (1743) or similar - the parentheses actually being a wide oval into which the tire's date code is molded. In this example, the first two digits are the last two of the year (2017) the tire was made, and the "43" being the week within that year: October 23-October 29th, 2017. Examine the sidewalls and tread of the tire. If you see any weather checking (cracking), time for the tires to go. Any sidewall bulging or suspicious cuts/repairs in the tread would mean the same. i have the Guzzi shop manual for my bike, but it is Italian somewhat translated into British - so us Yanks have to scratch our heads until we can determine what some of the terms mean. Never seen a Haynes for the V11, but it might be worth a look. Dust cover, sun cover or rain cover (in L.A. right?)