po18guy

An electric regulated by TYCO relays? Ummm...

Aha! I recently solved a low battery voltage issue by cleaning and Deox-It-ing the multi-pin connector between the rectifier and the main wiring loom. It is rather exposed to weather (being about one foot below the clutch switch bullet connectors on the left side). It gets wet when washing the bike or riding in the rain, and the water sits and corrodes the contacts. So, off to the bullet connectors. NOTE: I had thought that clutch lever gunk had plugged the tiny, easily lost plastic cylinder which operates the clutch safety microswitch. After cleaning and testing, all was fine, but the problem persisted. So, bullet connectors and then the relay if needed. Got those in stock, fortunately.

I have an occasional no-start issue with the clutch microswitch. It bump starts fine (ugh!). Based on the diagram, am beginning to suspect relay #1. But, is it still relay #1 on 2004 models?

OK, so other than OEM, what have you done? What survives?

Did a valve adjustment. And thanks to KINDOY2, I have some spiffy head guards. While I was polishing them, I also brightened up the valve cover bolt heads, so I fully expect to dazzle a few motorists in today's sun. In search of "approved" muffler hangers.

All I know is that Prince should have ridden that bike in his Purple Rain vid.

Guzzi is reportedly developing a V-twin shaped battery for future models.

The stealth color is so that none of your riding buddies will know that you have the shifting advantage.

Was owned by Ben... Ben Messtwith.

The learning curve is steep. Clutch: As to the clutch, I recently had trouble with air in the line. Removed the rear wheel so that my fumble fingers could get in there. Most do not have to, but it is a bit of a wrestle to reach the bleeder screw. I thought, the line goes upward - all the air is at the master on the handlebar. So, I installed a bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master and all is happy motoring since. Oil: Inside the oil sump is a screen. Since you might be in there, good time to check it and clean it, since the bike has only been ridden 1,100-1.200 miles per year or so. Since the oil filter mounts top up, I fill the filter with oil when installing a new one. Just that much less time for pressure to build once you start it. I use HifloFiltro HF551 filters, which are generally pretty well regarded. Use a good oil for flat tappets (like Harley oil, diesel engine oil or similar) with enough zinc to protect your cam. Shifting: A couple of "post-Guzzi engineer" members here have brainstormed a few things for shifting. First - in your case - would be the bolt-on "Lucky Phil Extender" which shortens the throw of the shift lever. That is half your problem. And, as I have been well advised, it is also a big help to preload the shifter with your toe just before clutching. That helps all that mechanism into motion when the time comes. The other is a shift mechanism spring, which most of us will need at one point - but it requires quite a bit more digging into the trans. For a tune up, you might try some iridium plugs, as I found quicker starts/less cranking. The rest is in the "Decent Tuneup" thread. Gives you something to do with all of your spare time

Coppas have Öhlins. This one has Nöhlins. Wrong forks, shock, fairing, paint, handlebars. Other than that, it's fine. More questions than answers.

Yes, all works perfectly fine. The blink rate is adjustable to personal preference or legal requirements. EDIT: I see that the picture of the latest bulb shows no projector lens - no idea if that affects the brightness.

My '04 has clear signal lenses and the following is the combo I settled on. I have used these for about two years now - no problems. In addition to the side LEDS which use the OEM reflector, the bulbs have a projector lens on the ends which focus the light straight behind you. https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Extremely-Bright-replacement/dp/B07BXNMNRF/ref=sr_1_22?crid=NJN75N30DW71&keywords=ibrightstar&qid=1658273217&sprefix=ibrightstar%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-22 And this flasher unit - adjustable blink rate -also works well. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Flasher-Electronic-Signal-Adjustable/dp/B091PXFXFD/ref=sr_1_23?crid=1603YA1WSJQ6M&keywords=led+flasher+unit&qid=1658273542&s=automotive&sprefix=led+flasher+unit%2Cautomotive%2C147&sr=1-23 It even has the tab to fit in the OEM location.

The sound of the NASCAR short track cars slowing for the pits was, well, lovely.

I learned to love the sound of gear drive cams in the late 60s. Drag racing cars, then Nascar at a short track I worked at. At about the 2:05 point and later, the siren song can be heard. Bike must be fast as it appears to have melted the fairing around the rider.

Sounds like a Teo Lamers centerstand dragging on the ground. Do you have a vid of the bike rolling in neutral, clutch out? If there was no noise under those conditions, then the trans "should be" fine. Points to the clutch or something in the clutch housing. Loose bolt or bit of clutch lining banging around?

Far fetched????

I strongly suspect that the apocalypse will predate all such 'best laid plans of mice and men'.

Lightning! Ride the wire! Never mind - that relates to being Tased.

Too bad it never happened - it would be a real source of spares.

Before doing something drastic, why not roll it back and forth clutch out. Same noise? Potential problem. No noise? No problem. Consider the racket that the clutch makes running, disengaged, in either neutral or in gear. Have a friend de-clutch the running bike while you listen from beside the transmission. A side effect of the design is that the clutch is noisy. If shifting and power transmission are otherwise fine, I do not immediately see any need to dismantle things. But, I am not there.

And with the V11's glide ratio only slightly worse than that of a Seabee...

That is the "manhole" to access the filter, but the oil drain plug is rear and center.

Sounds like the Teo Lamers stand. Not badly made, but somewhat poorly designed. The stand's legs are too short and the pivot point is too low such that the stand is probably 30º from vertical when you must lever it up over center. Seeing the space beneath the rear tire once the stand was deployed, I too came to the conclusion that placing a board (6X2/2X6) behind the rear tire then rolling the bike onto the board allowed the stand to touch earth much closer to vertical. At that point, balancing it all is a bit delicate, but rocking it onto the stand is then much easier. The fix would be to make the legs about 2" longer and raise the pivot point an equal amount.