80CX100

It actually wasn't from a manual (the manuals I'm looking at don't have a value). It was actually from a list of torque values from various sources compiled and posted by Raz on 31Dec2018. He has the Side Plate rod beneath the swingarm @ 49 nm Side Plate lowest/frame to gearbox @ 78 nm In his included chart of standard values for 12 mm he has @ 80 nm

After going through the manuals, I "think" I've found the right spec listed as 78 NM, can anyone in the know confirm, does that sound about right? tia

While on the subject of these frame plates, What is the fastening torque for the bottom large 18mm nuts, that hold the bottom of the frame plate to the frame cross member behind the transmission? I've been struggling to adapt my Becker Technik work stand from my Griso so it will work on my V11; I finally cut down some large deep well 18mm sockets and have fastened them to the BT stand and it looks like it will work, but the sockets are fixed tightly on the BT stand and don't rotate, I need something to rotate in order to use it. My game plan is to loosen the large 18mm nuts 1 turn, so the nuts will spin slightly as the sockets and stand swing into position and lift the bike up; but that means that each time I use the stand I will have to re torque those large frame plate 18mm nuts, curious if anyone knows off the top of their head what that spec is? I may have it buried in manuals someplace I haven't gone searching yet. Tia

Some would say I'm lazy, I like to say I love patina! I've gotten into trouble far too many times diving in deeper than I should've, my motto now is, "if it ain't broke, I don't fix it"

Reminds me of pro boxer turned singer Paul Thorn, in his song about fighting Roberto Duran, asking him why he had to hit him so hard, "I'd Rather Be a Hammer Than a Nail"

Are you sure? There's a ton of info on the subject in here and I haven't read it all; but I was under the impression that it was the ethanol in the gas absorbing water,,, and the plastic in the tank absorbing that water that made them expand and unable to fit. I was sure that I had read that some people emptied the tanks for a while and they shrunk back to normal size and were then able to fit them on? idk

I understood what Gstallons is describing that it's the rear portion cut away. Looking at it from the left side of the bike 1-5 o'clock and from the right side 7-11 o'clock. I've been sweating bullets reading about the deformed tank, because my tank has been off for a long time, half filled with gas, but it's ethanol free so hopefully it's not an issue. In hindsight I should've drained the tank to preclude any problems.

I've read this recommendation before about cutting approx 1/3 crescent shape off the mounting rubber grommets down to the writing,,, just to clarify is that material removed from the top?,,, the front?,,, or the rear?

Hey Phil, Thanks for jumping in and clarifying the confusion on my part, I used the term "master cylinder", when I was actually thinking of and referring to the "slave cylinder" located down at the lowest part of the whole system at the back of the tranny at the clutch push rod. I think the factory manual actually recommends removing the slave cylinder and moving it manually to clear any trapped air, I'm not sure how much extra room there is on the early models but I know on my later model V11 with the extra frame cross bar reinforcement in that area and the swingarm limiting access I wasn't going to attempt that. I regret immensely not investing in a good pressure bleeder as you suggested when I first dove in to do the clutch bleed, the frustration from that job still burns, lol.

Hey Scud, I'm not sure how the plumbing is configured, but my 2007 Griso bleeder valve is located on a remote line in the same place tucked up high on the left side under the seat. You're right, some type of simple T fitting down at the master cylinder running a nice high remote bleeder valve for the bubbles to rise to makes a lot of sense. Bleeding the Griso clutch was a dream,,, bleeding the V11 down at the M/C trying to force the bubbles downhill was a nightmare in comparison.

Docc I had chased the whole electrical system on my V11 Lemans, or so I thought; and went through the Deoxit/vaseline at every connection, clutch switch, relays etc, except for this main ground. I know my way around the old Tontis pretty good, but I'm still learning the ins and outs of these Spine frame V11s; grateful that you're spoon feeding me what I need to know to keep this bike running reliably, lol. Thank you so much for such a detailed and timely post, my main ground will be done shortly.

That happened on my 2003 Lemans. I think that there are a lot of the V11's out there in the world like my bike; not many miles over the years, not many oil changes, and because the oil filter is a bit of a bear to get to and change, very few filter changes over their life time, it sets up the perfect storm for the gasket to come loose from the filter and get stuck in place, hidden somewhat out of sight. It was a bit of a head scratcher for me trying to figure out why the extra gasket was in place in my engine, it was only when I pulled the old filter out of the garbage to examine it closely, that I realized what was going on. Definitely something for all owners to keep in mind.

Hey Docc, Tks for that info. I had wired in extra grounds from the R/R when I installed that charging system on my CX100, but I haven't done it to any other bike, I'll keep that in mind. I've read you making reference to replacing the fuse with a breaker, not sure if I'm up for that, but I'll definitely read through that link. Tks very much

Does that offer come with a color printer, lol?

Back to the op topic, I use a C-Tek 4.3 smart charger that has a mode specifically for Odyssey type batteries. I've bought a bunch of battery connector leads and rotate the charger through my bikes and other equipment as needed. fwiw I've read recently on here that the chargers can be toxic to the R/R on the V11s and the 30 amp fuse should be pulled to protect it while charging, is that the correct/simplest procedure? I've been charging my California Vintage for a few years with this method and I "think" that bike has the same type of alternator R/R charging system, my CX100 also has the EME 450W permanent magnet system, which I believe is the same style charging system as well. I've never noticed the battery charger causing a problem, maybe I'm just lucky and have been dodging bullets, idk?

Hopefully someone who knows what they're talking about will be along shortly, but for now examine the whole lever plunger assembly and make sure it is moving and releasing freely. Iirc there is a plunger that can stick and the fluid goes through some type of bypass. If it's never been bled, that may be worth considering. ps I think there is a special place in h*ll for the guy that dreamed up the hydraulic clutch idea and thought he was fixing a problem, jmo

As a Canadian, the monarchy has always been a part of my world and life as well. Prince Philip was always the calm steady rock in the background, and carried himself with dignity and class. It would be nice to think that society and the media could emulate him and rally their support around the Queen when she needs it most.

Hey Foto, I had read that post initially by Mike on the p[roper rear wheel assembly technique, but lost track of it before I filed it. Tks for providing the link, I've got it filed away properly now.

Hey Chuck tks very much for posting the specs for this issue. I had looked at a local V11Lemans for sale with new wheel bearings at low mileage, (under 15K kms), the seller mentioned that some of bikes had incorrectly sized oem wheel spacers and he had to have new correct spacers made up; I'll definitely be filing this information away in case I need it. Tks

Not my cuppa either. Now if they had done it all tastefully, in the faster Rosso Mandello color, different story, lol

If you're looking at the same Scura for sale in Canada that I have recently seen reposted again(Quebec?), I don't think it's as "sorted" as you think. I contacted the vendor last year and asked the usual V11 Scura questions, ie shift return spring, Roper plate, relays and the single plate clutch issue, I got the distinct impression the seller either wasn't that familiar with the known issues of his bike or being deliberately vague, neither were confidence inspiring for me. fwiw good luck and happy shopping

Nico Tks very much for the feedback on the Ti ECU, it sounds like a very positive effect on the running of your bike. The question I have for you or anybody else that may know the answer; I have a few different maps on hand saved on my computers, I'm sure one of them is a copy of the OEM Ti racing ECU map, if I load that map onto my 15M ECU in my Lemans, should I expect to see the same positive results that Nico has? Tia

Tks very much for the update, your bike looks lovely! Wishing you many safe miles and smiles. Enquiring minds want to know, which lowering peg kit did you get, and please share any thoughts on the installation and use, it's one of the few things I haven't done to mine, that I'm still considering.

Sight lines on a bike do come into it, but it's more than just that for me. When I used to do a lot of dirt biking, I loved putting my inside foot down and blasting off a left hand berm shot, but on the right side, always felt just a little awkward and tentative, definitely not as natural, I'm right handed fwiw

I agree with liking left hand turns more, whether it's on bikes, skates, skis etc, not sure what the logic or explanation for it would be