80CX100

Hey Phil, Yes you're right, the guzzidiag is a stand alone program, but the chip in the cable needs a driver to function so guzzidiag can see, connect and read the ECU, guzzidiag alone without a driver for the cable won't be able do do that, afaik. The GD reader driver will perform this driver function on the chip and I think accepted best practice now is to load this driver instead of the FTDI CDM driver. Iirc the latest tutorials mention quite a few times to use GD reader rather than the supplied/available cable driver. fwiw Kelly

Thinking out loud, Going over the basics, when connected is the blue indicator light on your Lonelec cable on and shining brightly? showing that you've got good connection and that the chip is working? That screen shot you posted of the FTDI CDM Driver file, just in case it's conflicting, if you can locate where that file was downloaded or moved to, delete it and hopefully all extensions, root files etc with whatever file management utility you have, Clean Sweep etc or possibly system tools? idk Verify your bike has the stock 15M or (15RC doubtful) ECU. Verify you've got the GD 15x Reader file Connect and plug in Lonelec cable to the computer, bike & battery, does the light on the cable come on? right click 15x reader file, select open, then click read on the prompt (my port automatically selected) open GD verify preferences for your bike On GD click connect, if it prompts you to start the bike, start it,,, if it doesn't connect by itself click connect again, may have to try a few times giving it time to respond. If it doesn't connect, I left the bike running, closed GD, then launched it again and clicked on the connect button,,,, disregard instructions to turn the bike on, it's already running. If it still doesn't want to connect, just for shits and giggles while you're trying to connect, maybe wiggle some of the relays, I think #5 was one that people mentioned gave grief to a good running signal,,,, maybe try the same thing wiggling the Lonelec cable, clutch lever switch and wires, neutral switch wire, idk. If it still doesn't want to connect, leave cable connected, GD open, and turn off the bike's ignition switch, wait a moment for files to settle then start the bike and try to connect When you did this last exhaust job, was there any other work done that might have disturbed a wire or connection that might come into play? fwiw Kelly ps sorry for previously adding to all the SS confusion, I can't keep all the stupid safety switches straight, lol. I remember being flummoxed a couple of times when I couldn't get the V11 started because I forgot to pull the clutch in. I've never tested the V11, but on my CalVin, if I coast to a stop with the engine running, in neutral and put the SS down, the engine stays running,, but if I'm in gear, even with the clutch pulled in the engine will stop running.

You may want to read the latest tutorials on guzzidiag, before launching that driver. I'm reluctant to offer advice on something that I know so little of, but my understanding is, that if you install that chip driver you may have future conflicts with guzzdiag reader & writer. The guzzidiag reader that I downloaded and used to drive the chip showed up as a little red icon in the file name and was labelled "IAW15xReader_V0.67" Most definitely make sure your side stand is up and the switch closed. fwiw good luck Kelly

The very first time I used GD on my Griso, I could see everything, but not connect with the ecu on the bike, I screwed around for 3-4 hrs, double checking everything, but it was only when I found the reader driver and launched it that I actually connected with my bike. I've used GD a few times since and am more comfortable with it establishing a connection; but it's never been a seamless, smooth in and out, I to have to work at jamming a connection through and especially getting the CO trim connection to take and save the changes. Make sure that the kill switch isn't engaged and neither are the safety switches ie clutch, neutral or side stand ?, I think if they happen to be open , I don't think GD will see the ECU, fwiw. Patience and fresh eyes from a different angle have helped me muddle my way through it. Good luck with it Kelly

Have you actually launched the reader driver or just downloaded it? Go to where you have gd & reader/writer files, right click on the reader exe file and follow the prompt ie run,open,install etc, if you haven't done so. You need that driver going/installed to get the chip in the Lonelec cable to work. I'm not sure if it's related, but I'm finding GD can be finicky if the stars don't align just right. Golden rule with computers,printers,ECU's etc, orderly shutdown,on/off power to get it reset or to respond. I went back in to my CalVin the other day to adjust the CO trim from 6 to 3, and I had to power up the bike & GD 8-9 times to get it connected and done. fwiw good luck Kelly

Better you than me, that sounds ugly,,, ;~) lol. Tbh, you've been further into that tank than I have; my bike already had the fuel line fix done by the PO when I got the bike. I've heard it's a bear of a job on a good day in your garage with proper tools, you did well to mcgyver your way home. All that rust sounds bad, if the inside of the tank is rusty I've heard of guys putting something like screws or nuts and bolts in the tank, putting it in an old sleeping bag and stuffing it in the dryer with pillows all around it, tumbling it carefully and keep repositioning it. How did the fuel lines from filter/pump look in your hands, soft punky/cracked or in good shape? The original defective ones should be marked SAEJ30R9 or 30R7. The updated good lines resistant to being immersed in fuel should be marked SAE 30R10, I think suitable hose should be available locally. Good luck

Cali1100i, The CalVins were one of the bikes with the dissolving fuel lines inside the tank; usually that issue should have been addressed by now, but if it's been been neglected and just parked, it could be the source of fuel delivery grief. Make your mechanic aware that it may be an issue at play. It sounds like there may be a bit of corrosion, a good methodical clean up of wiring connections, grounds etc with deoxit and a dab of vaseline should help things in the long term. Good luck with it Kelly

I had never heard of these pegs before, but when I researched them and found a few posts here and elsewhere; one of the complaints I read a few times, was that users did not like having to do "pigeon toed" shifting. I didn't understand what they meant; but after taking a look at the a/m photo and your explanation, I do now. It's the bulky bracket, peg attachment that seems to cause issues, I'm surprised that no one has designed a simple clean L shaped peg assembly all in one. Tks Kelly

Hey Al, While you're waiting for your Lonelec cables to arrive, if you haven't done so already, I highly recommend also picking up a set of the Casper's breakout cables that gstallons posted a thread link to, on page 1 of this discussion. Armed with those 2 simple tools really helped me demystify doing tune ups on my efi guzzis. I may still be overwhelmed and have the deer in the headlight look at times, while trying to navigate guzzidiag/procedures etc,,, but not having to worry about the cable connections for the TPS and guzzidiag; is gold. fwiw Good luck Kelly

I think they all come with DBK's now, some of the older pipes may not have them? Mistral exhausts are new to me, but the ones I recently bought have a DBK held in with a single allen head fastening. I haven't tried the set on my V11 yet, but when I tried different fuel maps on my CalVin, I had to put the DBK's in to improve low speed running. On my CalVin, without the DBK's it seemed to loose the nice low rumble and the sound got a bit sharper than I like, that's why I was curious how your pipes were set up, your bike has that nice low rumbly thunder mg sound that I'm looking for. Kelly

I'm sure it was appreciated by all that you were flying the flag,,, what can I say, we're a bashful shy bunch,lol. I did want to ask you though, as you rumbled up in the video, were the DBK's in or out of those Mistral pipes? It sounded very sweet, nice low rumble. Kelly

I'll take a couple dozen of those badges if you get them done up, please and thank you,lol. As a mechanical, electrical & digital Luddite, I owe much gratitude to members of the guzzi community, from literally the 4 corners of the globe. The bikes are a special breed, most of them running in tip top order, due in large part to the community support, which is way beyond special. Tks Kelly

I find analog vm's great to show readings of smooth operation etc, but for measuring very fine precise mv's measurements, my digital meter is much preferred. What I did find very helpful in getting an accurate setting and good tune up, was making my TPS adjustments guided by my digital vm, but then verifying the final setting with the throttle angle displayed on guzzidiag. Apparently guzzidiag will not read the minute voltages accurately, but it DOES read the throttle plate angle correctly. fwiw ymmv Kelly

^^^^This

I'm 61, I've had severe neck issues in the past, a good chiro got me back on track, and I now do my own stretching, cracking etc that I need to do, to stay relatively pain free. I learned too late the perils of ignoring core exercises, so now I'm playing catch up managing a hernia with exercise. Simple stretching, walking and boxsteps have a huge impact on my day to day fitness level. It was with some trepidation, that I jumped into my 2003 Lemans, but I'm doing what I can to make it a comfortable ride. Picked up a Rich Maund seat, got the touring MRA windscreen and for the price of a used bike,lol, got a set of MPH Risers. The MPH risers were extremely expensive to bring into Canada, but they are nice kit, loosening up the wire bundles in the loom and rerouting some items was crucial for a good install, but I was very disappointed in the brake/clutch lines in the kit. Rather than OEM style 90 degree fittings the lines are supplied with straight inline fittings pointing directly at the speedo & tach, virtually eliminating a complete range of motion and adjustability, fwiw, jmho. Life being what it is, I haven't got the bike altogether and on the road, but I'm thinking the comfort level should be quite a bit better, if I really get on with the bike and it needs it, I might look at lowering the pegs. The V11 series offers a very unique slice of guzzi design and ownership experience, if I have to mod the bike ,to make it work for me, so be it. Kelly

That's interesting,nice find! I've never heard of that MFW Vario system, but I like that Twisted Throttle available in Canada carries them. I did a quick search online for info and found out that Stein Dinse lists them for sale as well, I've never bought through them, but I think they have a reputation for selling quality kit, fyi https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=173541 That system adds up, when you figure in bracket, mount and footpeg, but there aren't a lot of options out there. Hopefully someone with knowledge or experience will chime in. Tks Kelly

Hey Docc, Tbh, when I thought I was simply bypassing the safety switch, I didn't look that hard for it the 2nd time, knowing that I needed that little bit to get the bike going, changed the urgency level of the search. I pulled out one of my bright LED work lights, and after crawling on the floor for 2 minutes, I now have that little black plug in ,my hand again,lol. I've read some of your posts on keeping that area clean and lubed, what would be appropriate, a little dab of silicon grease to lube it up and help hold it in place while I jam the lever and perch back together? Tks Kelly

Docc, that's not the right answer,lol. I dropped and found that little piece once,,, I don't think the finding part is happening the second time,,lol I'll look for that little piece again, but if I don't find it, what would be the best solution. ie Trace the wires back to the bullet connectors on the left side of the tank, disconnect them, wire them together bypassing the clutch switch completely? Tks Kelly

I'll definitely give that a try; key to the whole thing was disassembling the lever assembly so I could verify that the m/c piston was moving normally once I had confidence that it was working, I moved on the gravity technique mentioned above, and as you said, I tapped on the m/c and the slave as well, I think it helped but I will position the m/c as you describe and give it a go. Now the good or bad depending, when I disassembled the clutch lever to verify the piston worked in the m/c, I lost the tiny plastic piston that contacts the clutch safety switch, I'm hoping that just means that I've bypassed the safety switch and it will start and run normally. I had read a lot already on bypassing the clutch safety switch, I didn't realize I would do it by other methods,,lol Tks Kelly

My mcgyvered reverse engineering prime pump failed miserably, but I did make serious headway today; attacking it a different way. I digested a ton of info from this site last night, and I think it was you in other posts had mentioned using gravity to move the bubbles along; that really helped, a lot! After 1 whole day of just seeing clear fluid with no bubbles, I tried what you had suggested elsewhere and filled up the m/c reservoir and opened up the bleeder nipple and let gravity move the fluid and air along; sure enough once I closed the bleeder nipple, worked the lever and pressurized the line, I started to bleed out air again. I worked this technique back and forth, once I wasn't seeing air from the bleeder, I'd fill it up again, open up the bleeder, let gravity move things along for a while, then repeat, I've gotten a lot of air out of it, and starting to feel some resistance, but I don't think I'm back up to full pressure yet. Tks Kelly

I knew of this trick and used it for both of my brake m/c's but I wasn't sure about the openings and flow of fluid inside the clutch m/c, I'll definitely give that a go a few nights before I close things up. Tks Kelly

I have the same issue that the OP did in this thread, but I "think" my problem is more complicated than just air in the new clutch line. I just put an MPH riser kit on my "new to me" 2002 Lemans 7K kms (not ridden much in it's life, it's mint, been garaged for last 3-4yrs and was working perfectly). The clutch line bled out fine; I noticed if the bleeding nipple was only opened 1/4 turn, it didn't let that much air out, sometimes none, 1/2-3/4 turn of the nipple let out much more air. I now have good fluid moving out the bleeder hole with no sign of air bubbles, but I have what feels like zero resistance on the clutch lever. I've read through numerous posts and in that information was a comment from Phil that the fuller motion of the m/c piston when bleeding can damage seals or get hung up on debris in the travel path it normally doesn't hit. I noticed when bleeding the clutch, that the rubber boot (covering the end of the piston where the lever exerts pressure on the m/c) made a funny squishy empty hollow sound that I never noticed before, like it was just the empty boot collapsing with no resistance from the m/c piston hidden inside it. The clutch lever has very little resistance when pulled but seems to spring back normally fwiw. My theory at this point is that the end of the piston has stuck inside m/c, the fluid appeared relatively clean and not skanky, but the bike has sat for a long time and the piston may have got hung up on debris. I'll confirm later today, but I think the fluid I'm seeing coming out the bleeder nipple down at the slave cylinder is now moving because of gravity; not pressure from the m/c piston. I recently picked up a fair quality 1.5 l fluid syringe for draining the fluid on a sealed hydrostatic transmission on my lawnmower; I'm going to attempt to reverse engineer it down at the nipple on the slave cylinder and force fluid into the slave cylinder- line- m/c- piston; and hopefully push the piston back into proper position. For those in the know of how these systems work,,, am I off base or is there a better way of diagnosing and addressing the issue? If I do the reverse pressure attempt, how should I best set it up for success; Bleed nipple at the slave cylinder 1/4? 1/2? 3/4? turn open? Cover on reservoir at m/c on or off? Lever left alone or pulled in 1/2 way or to the bar? On this post that I replied to, the manual describes removing the slave cylinder and pushing the slave cylinder piston back, with my tranny crossover it sounds like a night mare job, but is that something I should consider doing if all else fails? Tia Kelly

Hey Al, Glad to see you back here in the flesh; Your post may have been 12 years old, but thanks for leaving the trail of bread crumbs, it was just the right info and fix that I needed. Tks Kelly

Hey Docc & anyone else that happens to read this, please take what I say on this computer stuff with a grain of salt, because by no means do I have a firm grasp on it, I'm definitely in over my head on a wing and a prayer,lol. I "think" the recommended best practice now with guzzidiag is to disregard loading the FTDI driver and load the reader driver instead to drive the chip. I "think" the reason for the change was because if you load the FTDI driver first and then later on, try to load the guzzidiag reader driver, there will be a conflict and problems. By loading the guzzidiag reader driver instead of the FTDI driver, it drives the chip and you preclude any future driver conflicts. fwiw Kelly

Hey Docc, When it comes to computers, ECU, EFI, maps etc,,, it's all black magic to me and it never goes smooth and seamless, lol. I remember the first time I used it on my Griso last year, I was connected to the ECU and could see it, but I couldn't see any of the measurements of my bike etc until I remembered to launch the reader driver, was it that or something else I did in the sequence so it finally worked, idk, lol. When you say guzzidiag worked without launching the reader driver, had you initially installed a driver for the Lonelec cable and chip? My understanding was that the cable with chip needed a driver in order to function. Tbh, I never tried launching guzzidiag alone this year without the reader, because the first thing on my to do list was to read and copy my oem map before I uploaded a new map. It seems that people and their computers have different experiences and results with it; I've read of microsoft 10 users having no trouble at all and yet even with my anti virus etc disabled, every time I tried to double click and open the reader file, windows 10 recognized it as a threat and actually deleted the file. It did that on me 3 times before I learned to right click and then press open, fwiw idk. I keep reading people having trouble selecting com ports etc, on my computer I just plug it all together and it's always selected com port 3 automatically in the initial set up and I just clicked ok, I've never had to search around for it etc. fwiw tks Kelly