80CX100

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0 This link will take you to the latest guzzidiag tutorial that Beetle has posted, his instructions will walk you through it. Iirc, Beetle specifically mentions somewhere in that link about ignoring the chip driver and installing the appropriate reader&writer from guzzidiag instead. Read my instructions again, I don't know what you're seeing on your computer and referring to as packets; but you should see 3 different "exe" files, if you're not uploading a new map, forget about the writer driver, but I believe you still have to launch the reader driver by right clicking and selecting open or run for the chip and guzzidiag to read the ecu. take your time, good luck with it Kelly

I downloaded the reader, writer and guzzidiag all into a new folder on my HD so I knew where to find them to launch them. I "think" you need to open and run the reader driver for the chip in the cable to interface with the ECU. When I ran guzzidiag for the first time last year on my griso, everything looked fine and seemed to connect, but I wasn't able to actually read the bike's info until I launched the reader, fwiw. There seems to be a little confusion on verifying the tps with guzzidiag; it's not accurate enough to measure the voltage to set the baseline, so I did that with a voltmeter/Caspers breakout cable and used the vm to set the idle voltage and then verified the results with the visible tps angle on guzzidiag. (I've read that according to Beetle, guzzidiag does apparently accurately read the tps angle) Good luck Kelly

I'm not a computer weenie at all, but I just spent a week with guzzidiag on my CalVin, so I can share a few thoughts while it's still fresh in my mind. Don't get overwhelmed looking at all of the packets of info and code; depending on what you want to do, you need the guzzidiag program itself, then the proper reader and writer drivers for your bike's ecu model. The reader,writer, and guzzidiag program will each have a visible "exe" file, right click on that and select open or run (If I double clicked on Windows 10 to launch the program or driver the system would recognize it as a threat and delete the file,,aaarrrggg!) All my USB connections seemed to self connect, I just plugged it in, didn't have to do anything other than click ok or accept the port the system chose. I had trouble setting the CO trim on one map, but the 2nd map seemed fine,,,, other than the engine temp being 60 I ignored the prompts for kill switch engine off etc, seemed to work fine. Good luck Kelly

When I said muscle bound, I didn't mean roided and ripped. Resistance training by it's very nature is causing the muscle to repair itself and grow, it's part of what gives you that pumped up feeling after a workout. Free weights done correctly, help strengthen the muscle and surrounding structure, ligaments, supporting muscles etc, all the little bits working together to balance and hold and move the weight get stronger. If you're not careful, a resistance machine can cause problems, because it does the balancing and holding for you, it allows you to cheat and work the large muscle groups, but the intricate support systems around it, don't develop at the same rate. I hear you on the sedentary aspect, my biggest health challenges have all been a ripple effect from a change in lifestyle since I retired. Walking,stairs, bikes all good for legs; I walk and play with my dog now, and make sure that I keep my legs loose and stretched with a full range of motion. A simple complete leg routine, could be, leg presses, leg curls, leg extensions and calf raises, in that order, large to small muscles, but if you go that route a good walk before and after to warm up and cool down safely would be a good idea. Good luck Kelly

Iirc, I cleared one tps fault, that I attributed to me turning the tps minutes earlier while setting it to .157. The link to wg that Biesel posted, I had already printed out, but after reading it for the umpteenth time, I missed the little step of leaving the key/ignition on but turning off the kill switch when doing the changes. I had a very tough time getting guzzidiag to work smoothly for me, no matter how much I disabled virus ware/security settings etc, Windows 10 on my laptop kept shutting down and deleting the reader program, so when I finally got it connected and working right, I just jumped right into it. I was shocked how long it took to get the engine up to 60 degrees, but once it did, guzzidiag seemed like it was going to let me make the change and It looked so intuitive on the computer screen, but I think I short stroked it and missed the kill switch step. Tks Kelly

I'm reading your weight regimen, and I'm cringing,lol. I used to pound serious steel for many years,, but imo there comes a time when focused intense resistance training can be counter productive. I'm in my 60's now, the last thing I want to be be at this point is muscle bound, tight and inflexible. I eat well and take a variety of supplements, mindful as mentioned of potassium and magnesium to help keep muscles loose. Be mindful of gout and the subtle problems it can cause around joints. From a lifetime of sports and other injuries, I continually have to stretch and crack, neck, shoulders, ankle etc to keep limber, moving and pain free, recently I added minor core exercises to keep a hernia in check. Luckily a few years ago, when I had a flare up with a deteriorating disk/pinched nerve ,I found an extremely good chiro who literally straightened me out, and I only need his help and guidance very rarely to keep me going; your previous back injury is probably playing havoc down stream, a good chiro (can be rare to find) may help you work those kinks out. I'd be lightening and easing up on the weights and stretching that long nerve that runs down your back and hamstring. When I fist sit down on a tonti bike, the sharp knee angle usually causes my hip to go out, standing up and straightening the tension out usually settles things in place, maybe the next time you cramp, if you can, try standing up and working the tension out. fwiw good luck Kelly

I was using guzzidiag on the CalVin yesterday and I could see the CO trim in measurements and actors, it showed it was set at "0" but the system wouldn't let me change it? I had installed Beetle's latest map "CalVin 15RC special" which is supposed to have the lambda turned off in the map. In hind sight thinking about it, should I be going into guzzidiag and turning off lambda myself to enable the CO trim to be adjusted? Tks Kelly

Hey Chuck, Mine arrived the other day, beautiful piece of kit, tks very much for doing the heavy lifting to see this through to completion. As I sit here looking at that beautiful little piece of engineering, originally conceived and designed by LuckPhil, produced by Chuck, and reading through the extensive transmission related posts here on V11Lemans.com, it's a beautiful thing watching enthusiasts from literally the four corners of the globe sharing and supporting us guzzi owners, kudos to all involved. Respect and gratitude Kelly

Hey Chuck, I agree with Pete; there is something about guzzis and air boxes & filters, Mandello has perfected the art of building motorcycles around them since 1921, lol. I was initiated on the Tonti cylinder style air filter on my CX100, I fought to change the filter, said screw this (like many others) and put on K&N's. Tonti, Spine, CARC they're all a pita in their own special unique way ;~) lol. Re the topic at hand, depending on the rubber part and location, I've used silicon grease, WD40 and Armor All, but as someone has already mentioned, heat works wonders, just like changing a tire,,, soft and pliable beats cold and stiff every time. Good luck with it Kelly

I'm thinking his fierce Italian pride probably hurt more than his bank account. Somehow I don't think that damage will just buff out,lol. Thanks for sharing that link.

Hammershaug, I feel for you, that's a lot of pain to process. While you're digesting all that life has thrown at you, please be mindful and careful. Hope your bike comes out the basement easily, and you get some quality time with it. Kelly

That sucks, but nice to know what the problem was, hopefully will save you grief getting it running well again good luck with it

Hey Docc, Tks for linking that post, it made for excellent reading, and with the help of google translate, those linked articles were a treat to read. You gotta love the passion of some of the Italians when it comes to designing and producing motorcycles, it's rare in this modern bean counting world.

It's only recently that I've noticed how sexy the curvy lines are on the V11s from the rear, but I must admit, I think there is a design conflict when the reflection behind you is measured in acreage not square inches, js,lol.

Antmanbee, I tried to send you a pm with copies of those maps, but it appears the system won't allow me to add the attachments and do it, send me a pm with an email address and I can send you what I have. I was always leary of those maps, because they don't have the "bin" extension that is normally visible in fuel maps I've seen, although when I saved them, my computer recognized them as guzzidiag files and saved them as such,fwiw. CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21 were apparently done by a WG member and installed on the CalVin owned by Geoff from Almonte on WG. I have since read correspondence that Beetle had possibly been involved in final fine tuning of those maps. Geoff sent me copies of those maps shortly before he sold the bike to a friend of mine. At some point in time I will be working on that bike. I went back over my emails with Beetle and it would appear that CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin is a further refinement of the DannyP-Mod12.bin map. Biesel, I've read some of the CalVin/H Pipe controversy; My own CalVin, which I believe has a stock OEM map didn't run bad, but it definitely seemed lean, and ran poorer when hot and at times it did seem to run hotter than normal, imho. The theories I've read and am trying to address with an H pipe, was that the collector 3rd muffler was blocking the free flow of hot exhaust gases contributing to the heat problem. Tks Kelly

I'm following this discussion very closely because I intend to upgrade the map on my CalVin asap, yesterday,lol.. Biesel or Antmanbee, do either of you know or can you tell if that map version of "CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin" from Beetle, was before or after he last upgraded it for DanNC on wildguzzi? Are either of you familiar with these maps and could possibly offer an opinion "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21" On the bikes that you've tested the maps on, were the valves set for .1 & .15 mm? Any other variables that may have affected the performance ie, exhaust & intake mods or changes to tps or trim settings? My bike will have a Mistral H pipe with the lambda turned off, Mistral Classics for exhaust, stock intake; I was planning to install the latest version of CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin done for DanNC, and set my valves at .1 & .15 and a little richer on the TPS settings .157 & 500? and make sure my trim is at least in the positive 5? Thanks for testing and sharing the results Kelly

The danger with just flushing this thread, is the loss of the evidence of this steaming pile of pollyannic myopic Monday morning quarterback BS.

For now I'm still running 20w50 dino in my round heads, I don't know if I want to tempt the oil leak gods by running a full synth in them just yet,lol ;~) But I'm running the recommended 10w60 synth in my Griso & CalVin, and planning to use it as well in my V11. I don't want to put words in his mouth, but iirc Chuck has shared the opinion that any bike worth taking care of is worth running 10w60 in it. I can definitely see the merits of quick full lubrication when cold with the 10w aspect,,, and the heavy durable 60w aspect when it gets real hot and the engine is working hard. If the seals, gaskets and breathing are up to it, I wouldn't hesitate to use 10w60 synth, Fwiw ymmv Kelly

I was lucky, I had a big order from Mandello Italy to Canada, just before CV19; My orders from the US during CV19 have been a little slower, but steady and reliable except for one lengthy holdover in Chicago by USPS. The strangest delay was on an order from the US by Fedex, it came across the Canadian border quickly, then sat in a warehouse in Ottawa only 15 minutes from me for almost a week iirc. I think all delivery services are maxed out, but with modern tracking methods, seem to function with relatively rock solid reliability. It's been such a busy spring on many different fronts for me, I've barely had time to get to the bikes, the timing of the shipment should be just about right. Chuck, thanks very much taking this on and being so generous with your time and expertise. Much gratitude, respect and appreciation Tks Kelly

I'm not that familiar with ecu/efi or mechanics in general so I was reluctant to post, hoping that someone with more knowledge and insight might jump in; but I do own a CalVin and can give you some basics that may help you. The CalVin is basically a blend of 2 models, the chassis is like a California, but the engine ecu/efi is like a Breva 1100. You can apparently use guzzidiag on the CalVin in a similar fashion to the capabilities on the V11's; you don't get full access and control with it like you apparently do on a CARC bike. A factory defect that "all CalVins" ? shared, was the disintegrating fuel lines/pump assembly in the tank, one of the symptoms could be running out of gas at higher throttle levels as the fuel pressure leaks out inside the tank at higher levels, inform yourself and ensure that the fix has been done, lots of info on wildguzzi about it. Could the fuel line defect cause the pinging you are describing,,, possibly,,, I can get my CalVin to ping, if I'm a little lazy on my gearing, ie running the rpms too low, imho. They were known for lean mapping and running a bit hot, the 3rd muffler in the crossover is a bit of plug in the whole works, I'm in the process of replacing mine with an H pipe, fwiw. Dead batteries on CalVins, are usually caused by using the 55 watt driving lights, most guys swap them out for lower wattage or LED bulbs, I just make sure that I don't turn them on, I have no idea if their use could have contributed to your blown 30 amp fuse, idk. The ECU "should" be a 15RC, TPS measurements have to be taken with a voltmeter at the TPS connection, I used little copper wire jumper cables, but picked up a Caspers break out cable for future use. I think the proper TPS baseline and idle settings can be a somewhat fluid thing, but at this point it seems that a baseline setting of 150-157 mv and an idle setting of 485-500 mv should be in the right ball bark. Iirc. The consensus on the best tuneup guide seems to be this one http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html Beetle does have a map for the CalVin, and his improved tutorial on guzzidiag over on wildguzzi is the go to reference for any of this type of work, jmho. Like any tuneup on a guzzi, I like to start it with the valves adjusted and finish with the TB's or carbs sync'd. Good luck Kelly

That's too funny, but there is a lot of truth to it. I love red on a bike, as long as it doesn't clash or it's over done, fwiw. The Italian designers are pretty smart when it comes to making your heart go pitter patter. If you look at the most recent MG models, the ones that catch my eye, and most others,are the ones with the red accents; In conversation with other motorcyclists, they usually bring up the tastefully done red accents on the different mg models. I think the red accents, are a big part of the Greenies visual impact. I know the red accents on my black V11 Lemans make it much more appealing to my eye. Just for kicks, I ordered a nice set of angled valve stems for the wheels, they came in red, I couldn't resist, lol, sets off the plugs and the pork chops nicely. It not only draws your eyes into the bike, it's scientifically proven to be the fastest color ;~) To the OP, good luck and good times shopping, You'll know the bike for you when you see it Kelly

That was an impressive pile of bills for gadgets, glad it's his and not mine,lol. I think the wide bars and the mirrors let it down a bit, but those shots from the rear, with that rich deep burgundy and the black stripe, flowing through all those curves,,, from certain angles that is one sexy looking bike. js.

My first thought was TDC on the wrong stroke, you seem confident that's not the problem. As Pete says the heads should be re-torqued irregardless. With the timing of maximum lift apparently being off, is it possible that the timing chain is misaligned by a tooth or two on the camshaft or worn and badly stretched? fwiw Good luck Kelly

I just use a section of clear vinyl tube and a bottle as well. Re the frequency of changing the fluid, I normally would only do it when working on the lines/brakes/pads etc and have never noticed any sign of debris in the old fluid, but I had read about the fluid going bad quickly in the clutch lines on the Grisos. Sure enough, when I changed the fluids on my Griso, I got a fair amount of black debris out of the old fluid in the clutch line. I'm not sure if it's due to the design or the higher heat from closer proximity to the engine, but the fluid in the Griso clutch lines definitely goes bad quickly, the somewhat similar design in the V11 clutch lines may be an issue to keep in mind as well. fwiw Kelly

Whatever works for me as well Tks Kelly