80CX100

If you don't have access to fluorescent tubes, your idea about chalk lines and a straight bow string might be a good one. I forget what they're called, but essentially little wooden stands to run your strings on, when you're laying out foundation or a construction area on the ground. You could do the same thing with 4 axle stands or any other things suitable to support 2 strings anchored on one end and a weight on the other to keep the strings tight, position them behind and in front of the bike, run them up close on either side of the rear wheel and you'd get a good idea if the front wheel is aligned straight.

I've never done it so it didn't float to the surface of my memory banks, but Foto is absolutely right about fluorescent tubes, that's an excellent redneck tip if you could get a couple of assistants to hold them in place

Like Bob Maynard has echoed I think you might be onto a redneck fix that would work. To help you see if things are out of alignment, it would help if you had 4 good long straight edges, clamp 2 on the outside of the front wheel/tire up 3-4 ft in the air, do the same on the back wheel/tire and then stand far to the back and front and see if those straight edges are still parallel. Good luck with it Kelly

I like Foot's photo of the frame with the 2 cylinders at either end and his idea of throwing a 6' sraight bar through the back holes in the pork chop area. The pipe/bar may give you a visual idea if something is wonky, but if you measured it carefully and secured it centered in the frame, the ends of it could give you a point of reference to verify measurements to vital parts of the frame, fwiw.

I know it's been said already, but I've read also that spiney's don't crash well, I think one of the main concerns might have been cracks on the transmission case for engine or frame supports? IIRC. If you're thinking about getting it back and putting it on the road, if you can go over all the frame junctions, especially the steering head area, with a real bright light and good glasses looking for spider checking in the paint from bending stress. If you took real good measurements from both sides of the bike at fixed points from the front to the back and top to bottom you "might" be able to confirm if the frame is still relatively square/even or bent/mismatched, ie axle/swingarm, steering head/swingarm,engine mounts/swingarm/axle etc. Sorry about the get off, that sucks; but very glad that you came out of it better than the bike. Take your time to heal up well. Good luck, take care Kelly edited: I should have read all the posts before I replied,lol. I see that Chuck has you covered re the info on the engine and timing chest mounts, but wth, you could check the tranny mounts while you're at it too,lol. If it looked straight and damage free for major components and I knew and loved the bike, it would be in the garage,js, glad it's you making the decision and not me,lol. good luck.

Hey Meinolf, Thank you so much for taking the time to respond with such a detailed reply, and especially how variations in the valve clearances would affect the fueling. I'll be studying this and a lot of the other material you've previously posted, I look forward to being able to get this bike tuned up and running as sweet as I can. Your generosity in sharing your knowledge and expertise, is very much appreciated. Tks Kelly

Hey Meinolf, Thank you so much for jumping in here. I went back through all the information that I've saved and I've got numerous files that people mention the wider clearances attributing it to you, but you're correct, I apologize, none of the posts were made directly by you. If I loaded your map with a Mistral Crossover/Oval Exhaust with .15 & .20 clearances would it be less wear and tear on the valve train? Would it run poorly? If your map is designed for .25 & .25 clearances, am I understanding it correctly that if I change from those clearances that I will screw up the timing built into the map? Tks Kelly

I ripped quickly through a bunch of material; from Guzziology and this site, the cams, part # 3705 3305 on the Sport & V11s are different, there is mention of them being higher lift and if I'm reading the charts right, longer duration. I also read a reference that the valves themselves are larger, just slightly smaller than the size on the old big valve engines. I'm starting to get a better understanding of why Chuck and others have described the V11's as the last of the real hot rod guzzis. The more I'm learning about the bike, I'm getting anxious to get it on the road. Tks

I had read about Dr John & the Crane cam, but I assumed that design ended up in all of the ECU EFI bike and they were all the same, I'll spend some more time reading on it before I do a final tune up. I still have quite a bit to do before I get to that stage. Tks to all for taking the time to reply

Is there something different with the V11 engines requiring wider valve clearances, ie cam,timing,combustion chamber etc? I've read a lot of material on the other newer guzzi engines, and .15 & .20 seem like nice wide clearances that breath well for a variety of mg efi 1064 cc engines; personally my Griso and CalVin both run well at .15 & .20 I thought that the engines were all basically the same, but the trend here with the V11 for some, seems to be much wider clearances than most other guzzis; on this site, I read of a lot of owners running .20 & .25, etc and Meinolf's map at .3 & .3. Is there a mechanical or design reason for the difference or just personal preference?

Hey Marty, Tks for that, I've got the reader & writer drivers loaded already and I've been studying how to save my original map as a back up. I'm just trying to decide which map to load to go with the Mistral crossover & exhaust, and if I go with Meinolf's map if .15 & .20 valve clearances will work with it? If that's not a good game plan, I'd try the Beetle map and see how it goes.

I've only done 10-15 kms of close to home test rides on my new to me 2003 V11Lemans, so I really don't have a good feel for the fueling or the bike yet, but the stock mapping seemed good and smooth, it didn't seem as lean & snatchy at low speed like my CalVin. From searching and reading, I'm getting the impression that the stock map is relatively rich and for whatever reasons, the V11's seem to like wider valve clearances? I'd "like" to set the valves at .15 & .20 like my other modern guzzis and install a map if needed to go with new Mistral crossover & Oval CF's that I'll be installing very soon. I have 2 maps available to me, from Beetle "V11_LEMANS_RossoCorsa" and from Meinolf "2017.08.31_#93_6". I know Meinolf is waayyy deeper into the V11 than Beetle is, and has refined his map a lot and people are very pleased with it, but call me a contrarian, I have a hard time planning to set my valves at .3 & .3 which is the baseline tune for his map. I tried the wider Raceco settings .22 & .25 on my CalVin for a short while and I wasn't real impressed and went back to .15 & .20 (To be fair the bike was in dire need of a tune up fwiw) Has anyone run .15 & .20 valve clearances with Meinolf's map? Results? I welcome any and all thoughts and input. Is anyone familiar with Beetle's map "V11_LEMANS_RossoCorsa" results? I'm a newbie with guzzidiag, only done 2 tuneups with it; I'm good with computers, but I'll be in over my head saving fuel maps and uploading new ones, so I'm hoping to only do this once, my theory being much less chance of screwing things up,lol. Tia Kelly

I just realized that you're the lad doing the fly & buy coast to coast, I think you're making a very wise choice getting a road biased 80/20 tire, you'll be covering a lot of pavement to get home. I noticed that you mentioned earlier not being familiar with Shinko, they are the old Yokohama factory/tires, very well thought of by lot's of people in the know. Patience,prudence and common sense goes a long way with my 705's, I rode up the gravel trail to the top of Eagle's nest lookout in Calabogie, no problems, no drama. I did get into trouble with them twice, but stupidity were issues both times; once was on a group ride with waayyy too quick a pace for the loose fresh gravel on the dirt road, the front end wanted to wash out on a corner,,,, one spring I did some exploring on a muddy road through a swampy area to check out the flooding of the Ottawa River,,, I didn't get stuck or fall over, but I was a sweaty muddy mess by the time I duck paddled out of there. I'm not sure how much reading you've done and how prepared you will be for the ride home, but just in case some of the O ring seals on your wheels start to leak, a small compressor & some type of sealant, locktite? might be nice to have with you. Sounds like a great adventure, I look forward to reading your updates. Good luck and safe riding Kelly

I run Shinko 705 on my DR650, they are a bargain compared to most of the other tires. I like them on pavement, pretty good on firm gravel roads, but not enough open tread for loose gravel or mud. I don't know that I'd want to run them on a heavier bike like a Stelvio though,jmho.

Thanks for bumping this old thread up. I've been on Greg's site oldtractor.com many times, for my Tontis, CalVin & Griso, but for some reason, I didn't see all the V11 material. From the instructions above, on the menu on the left and into the spine frame stuff and scroll all the way to the bottom, I found a gold mine, yahoo! Service Manual, Supplemental Manual, Parts Manual, Electrical Schematic and an Owners Manual. Watch out we're loaded for bear now,lol Tks Kelly

That sucks, glad to hear you came out of it was well as you did.

While researching fuel mapping changes I hope to make in the near future, I stumbled across this old post. I noticed there wasn't a visible answer to the question I posed. I thought it would be a good idea to have a direct email address link here, for anyone wishing to donate to guzzidiag: guzzidiag@gmail.com I know I will forget to mention some names, but a sincere thank you to Beard, Meinolf, Paul, Beetle, Pete, Jaap, Docc etc, your knowledge and generosity has helped us guzzi owners immensely. Thank you Kelly

You're correct on that; I just stocked up on shear bolts for the snowblower on my new tractor, it's definitely a science. In SAE bolts 8 is at the top of the hardness spectrum and in metric bolts 8.8 is in the middle; but if the 8.8 metric bolt is of poorer quality it can snap off at a much lower force than expected. I copied over some info from one of the tractor forums below, fyi. The op was very lucky that bolt came out in one piece. Good luck with the next one Kelly "Your dealer does not understand metric hardware. Metric hardware does not come in grade 2, 5, or 8. The heads are stamped as 4, 7, 8.8, 10.9 or 12.something. Most Pronovost blower PTO shaft shearbolts are 10mm diameter 8.8 hardness which is your standard hardness for many, many metric hardware applications. The majority of metric bolts stocked at our dealership are 8.8 hardness."

Hey Phil; I was typing as you were posting. Tks for getting the right spelling, lol

Do yourself a favor and pick up a couple of pair of Valopini valve cover gaskets & you should be good for life. Pete and other guzzi gurus have been singing their praises forever; it took me a while to line up a supply of them, but I like them so far. They are the heavier material black ones, that I think are reinforced with wire or metal in the core. They should be available from MGCycle or AF1 possibly other suppliers or shops near you. I've used factory MG green ones,beige ones black ones, I even had a Griso that came with a set of Real Gasket ? silicon (PO had over tightened); they all leaked at some point of time. If you're handy and have the material, you could certainly make up a set to keep you mobile. I've had trouble before with the gaskets moving around on installation, a few dabs of grease helps hold them in place for me, I've also found tightening them too much and crushing the gasket can cause leaks. Good luck Kelly

I have no personal knowledge of this, fact or fiction I don't know, but it "could" be an explanation. My father had told me many decades ago that Japan had very strict regulations on the age of vehicles allowed to be registered for use on their roads. After only a few "X" number of years you could no longer register your vehicle for use on a public road legally and it was essentially worthless and usually scrapped. Apparently this policy ensured that the fledgling Japanese auto industry would always have customers at home looking to buy new cars, and less vehicle emissions would ensure a better air quality for the relatively small land mass of Japan. Since the global markets have opened up and the Japanese Auto industry is the worldwide power that it is, I have no idea if a policy like this is still in effect, but it could be an explanation. fwiw Kelly

I keep a pretty good eye on the guzzis for sale in Ontario and Quebec and occasionally the rest of Canada. There have never been a lot of them available for sale, but I notice that the V11's in it's various models are definitely trending upward. I used to see them in the $3-4-5K range, now I'm seeing them in the $6-8K range and recently there was a basically stock Scura without the clutch fix asking $10K. Those are Canadian Dollar prices, which I would normally figure to be roughly 30% higher than US prices, fwiw. Kelly

My springs arrived today, thanks to everyone that made this possible. SCUD, thank you so much for jumping into this guzzi parts game again, and helping us keep our bikes going in fine form. Kelly

Some good mcgyver tips here, SCUD, I've never heard of using the towel on the slide hammer, that sounds like a good one to save on the wear and tear on the old body. Phil, if I understand correctly, I gather you mean placing a piece of large diameter tube/pipe 2"-3" and slipping the puller jaws inside and using the tube against the frame or hub to anchor the pressure on the outside instead of the inside like a regular 3 way puller set up? I'm not recommending it and it sounds rough, but when I took a quick look on google, a lot of people without pullers or able to get access with a punch; have used concrete bolt anchors carefully secured and tightened tight against the wheel bearings then drifted out carefully from the other side, throwing the info out there in case someone ever gets stuck without the right tools as an fyi. Kelly

Off the top of my head, I don't recall what the clearances actually were, but I ran the Raceco spec on my Cal Vin for a while a couple of summers ago, the fueling on the bike is lean anyways, it didn't seem to help, still ran a bit ragged. I went back to .004/.006, my impression was it may have ran a little better, but improved substantially when I did the TPS and balanced the TB's fwiw Kelly