Grim

Check if the Speedo cable is actually turning at the Speedo end first! Disconnect it from the back of the Speedo. If you spin and push it into the cable housing you should feel it "lock" ok into the gearbox end. If it's just flapping about it could be broken. If you've got a stand just start the bike and put it in gear. See if the cable spins at the Speedo end. If it's the black ITI one, you can service them.... Just about. With replacement worm gears.

Put on some Breva valve covers, I think it tidies up the spark plugs and leads. I stripped them and used a buffing wheel to brush the aluminium. That paint was surprisingly stubborn!

I used a rotary tool to enlarge the lower kickstand mounting hole, this took a few goes to get to a point where the m6 bolt didn't squeak going in (I hate that noise). I also got a spare sump plate from Steve (on here somewhere!), I realised mine was warped, as holding the spare on a pane of glass there was no wobble, whereas mine could be rocked slightly from corner to corner. Those 2 things together have stopped my leak, so I am happy. Now to go out for a ride!

I had a thought, whilst I was scraping gasket of my middle sump plate, the big kickstand bolt (which is huge) is now a Roper plate further away from the smaller allen head bolt that centres the kickstand. I had a job getting it back in, and the bolt must now be at a slight angle, which would technically be forcing that corner up towards the upper bolt. That could be a culprit for opening the gap up where the lower sump meets it, making the gap the gasket has to fill slightly bigger there? What did other people do?

Good spot, but it seeped a bit when I took the bolt out. Excuse the bits of gasket, here is the offending area

... now I don't know... I took the bolt out and cleaned it, and found a really embedded second washer... Is that normal, the other bolt faces are flush as far as I can see, this one may have been way over tightened at some point, pushing the washer into the metal? I've clearly disturbed something by taking the sump plate off, as it wasn't leaking before, but it was hard to remove the plate as it was insta-gasket-ed on pretty hard. I can't really see a crack here now it's all cleaned. Edit: I've got the sump plate off again, I don't think there can be a crack, the inside is smooth and there's alot of metal there. The sump plate could be warped a bit? Maybe I should tighten that one first, or use a thicker gasket?

Do you know what, I think there is a hairline crack where the bolt face is at a right angle to the sump plate.. I cleaned everything, smeared hylomar on the sump plate, new gasket, tightened in a star pattern from the inside to the outside, let it all settle. Filled with oil and..... Leak in exactly the same place. Maybe I need a new sump plate, or could I use some liquid metal epoxy stuff? Oil can't run uphill, right? I covered it in talc and the watched it seep, it seems to start higher than the bolt itself. Not easy to get a clear shot

It's an idea that Yamaha went with on the xs650.. the various bolts holding the case together have copper washers on them, they are a great source of misery... But replacing the copper washers holds the oil in for a while.

I got mine from @Pressureangle thanks everyone,

Yeah, the plate is all oil tight.. It was just the one bolt on the bottom sump plate dripping, not even around the gasket, just thought the bolt hole and around the bolt.

Well I took the sump cover off and... I really can't see the problem. I used a green Athena gasket, it had gone quite hard and glossy in only a few weeks, but that might be normal! No rips around the bolt hole, I guess it just wasn't sealing at that point. It's annoying cos there's quite a lot of metal there, it's not like it's super thin or anything. I used red gasket sealer on both sides, very sparingly, more to stick the gasket in place than anything else. The red one is semi permanent and never sets hard. I had tightened in a star pattern, I probably started at a corner, then the opposite and so on. I'll stick a new gasket on and switch the bolts around.

Not quite my thing, but I am intrigued by what they may have done with the throttle bodies, it looks like its been swapped out for a downdraught carb. Ebay ad

Cheers, I gave everything a good scrape/clean when I did the gasket, I was actually feeling quite smug about how shiny the surfaces all looked.... pride before a fall. I could try a shorter bolt, just in case, it's a good shout. Strangely, that particular bolt had 2 washers on it when I came to check it. I switched to just 1, it didn't help. I was trying to find a copper crush washer that might hold the oil back but I dodn't have one the right size. There's probably nothing for it but to drop the bloody oil out of it and try again!

Well, it really was going too well lately. After my successfull Roper plate installation I have noticed a puddle of oil on the ground wherever I go. After cleaning and observing, it is running out around the front left lower sump plate allen head bolt. The actual gasket area is dry, I can see it coming down around the bolt. I have tried coating the bolt in gasket sealer and tightening it up, I have tried a bit of silicone sealent, but still the drip persists. Do you think the inner edge of the gasket around the bolt hole got torn? I am going to have to drain the oil and get a new gasket, bugger.

My rubber bulb holders are knackered, so with no bulb in the contacts are free to wobble about and.... contact! Those little wedge bulbs are horrible, and those soft rubber holders are weird.

Yeah, dipped in the UK is the standard mode of the H4 headlight bulb, because it is dipped down and can't dazzle, the other mode is hi/full beam. We say sidelights/driving lights/daylight running lights for any bulb that is white but not part of the headlight bulb, alot of cars and bikes have them on constantly now, not even as a user selected mode.

Yup, that's certainly the one that blew when I accidentally powered on with no bulbs in the little rubber holders.....

Hah. I have now. That's why I did some research first. This one is solid, there is also a fail-safe if the main clamps failed. PS the phone is not connected to a network, just GPS/WiFi.

Ha, Nope, the "parking" light. Little 12v bulb under the main headlamp bulb. Black and yellow wires. I soldered on to the terminals and ran the cables out the bucket in the original plastic sleeve.

I have been looking for a good solution to wireless charging my phone whilst using it as a dash/satnav. After much research I found this unit from available on Amazon has plenty of good reviews, a few YouTube videos about it and was cheap but not cheap enough to be horrible. It uses the Ram ball mount, and comes with a variety of options, but I bought an M8 threaded version separately to go in the stem cap without having to drill anything out. I used an expanding anchor with this, which spreads as you tighten but drops back when undone, it doesn't permanently deform. Gif: https://i.imgur.com/QKhL9t3.gifv I soldered into the sidelight terminals inside the headlamp bucket and ran cables in a sleeves out to the headlamp multiplug. Then up to some waterproof female bullet connectors for when it's not in use. The Qi charging is not likely to blow the circuit, it runs off 5 watts minimum. This mount also has a waterproof USB out for secondary charging, like a GoPro or another phone if you get stuck. The metal parts of the mount are stainless steel, and there is a one touch clamp, and then an easy (in gloves too) squeeze top and bottom to release. It feels solid so far; I've used it over a few 100 miles with no issues, it comes with an extra rubber web to secure the phone if you need it. Also added my red led backlights (+3bhp), led sidelight and headlamp h4 bulb. Headlight has a front mounted fan and heatsink, so no extra bulk in the bucket.

I'm using the sidelight cables for my phone holder/wireless charger.

I've recently fitted a Ram phone mount to my steering head cap, I used an M8 concrete anchor, as it spreads as you tighten it. It ain't going anywhere, but as you back off the teeth retract and it's easy to remove. I used ally crush washers either side.

I am only talking about the backlights here, the ones that illuminate the dials. I am happy with the visibility of the warning lights. I have the "jewelled style" and they are pretty noticable, with the whole thing glowing when lit up....except of course for the fuel level..... I have a feeling these T10 holders look to be correct, although I cant find anywhere that referecnes 286 on any of the adverts for them. I will order some as I like the look of the rubber "teeth" maybe less awkward to remove than the originals? These look to be a good match for the originals: https://www.lightinthebox.com/en/p/5pcs-t10-w5w-soft-rubber-light-bulb-socket-lamp-holder-connector-car-light-base-auto-led-lights-bulb-socket-connector_p8297399.html I ordered some of these too, I think you could probably notch the holes in the back of the clock body to accept these, then you just turn them in and the teeth catch behind, I'll give it a go.

I bought some LEDs to replace the back-lights, all good, they seem to be either marketed as T5, 286 or 74 wedge bulbs. This is a little confusing, from what I can see T5 is a code for wattage, whereas 286 is the style of bulb (although sometimes they state "wedge" like there is an alternative 286 bulb style)? I would like to replace my rubber bulb holder, one has snapped and they cause shorts because they are all perished and allow the bulb to pop out and touch contacts sometimes. It would be interesting to be able to find a "click in" style solid plastic holder that released when squeezed, the rubber ones are horrible to deal with. Should all 286 holders be the correct size for the bulb? Does anyone really know!?