Grim

I agree, I was trying to do it 'by the book' for the map, but I guess its better to have a bike that ticks over.

O guess it rules out any differences in adjustment. He says to sync idle on the throttle stops. The cylinder behaves well on throttle and the 3k sync is good. It just doesn't want to idle!

I have not tried the injectors, I will try that next! Yeah, the air bypass screws closed, that is only because Mienhof recommends it with his map. Thanks

It was all going so well.. I decided that with my Mistral crossover and straight through carbon exhaust cans I should richen things up with Meinhof's map. ... But now I'm back with a weak left cylinder! Not sure what happened but it's running weak and fouling the plug. 😭 I think the lower idle uncovered it, my idle was quite high with the Ti map. Things I had done previously to get to this point: Set valves to world values. Reset TPS Did a compression test, ok Tested coil resistance, ok Air screws all the way in Synced TBs at idle with rod Synced TBs at 3k with rod No exhaust leaks New intake rubbers With all that done, the left cylinder is missing a bit at idle, if I pull the plug lead from the right cylinder then it stalls after a few seconds, however if I pull the left plug lead and the right cylinder will run happily. What could make the left cylinder do this, I'm at a bit of a loss. Thanks

Hi, thought I would give it another go, found the idle dropped to 1000 at 521mv with the air screws closed. Anyone else using this map, is it ok just just set the idle where I want it (C1100) using the left idle stop screw and not worry about the MV going up? ..Cylinders are in sync at idle and 3k. Thanks

Thanks, is this the mount that sit on an axle through the bottom/rear of the gearbox? It really look like it's coming from the top, parallel with the back of the starter. Is there another crack prone mount further up the gearbox?

Is that the large hose on the second photo? It looks depressingly dry from the side view, I was hoping it would be that.

Whilst I have searched to the best of my ability, I am failing to understand this oil leak from the area around the top of the gearbox. I am using shockproof light in the gearbox, which is blue and smelly; the oil leak is not blue, or smelly. The green highlight is the path of the oil, after cleaning everything. As it was collecting around the gearbox drain plug it was hard to determine where it was coming from originally, but after cleaning I have seen a trickle of fresh oil making its way down this path. It then goes behind the starter, and down to the gearbox drain plug. The sheen on the clutch slave is not oil, it's just a bad paint job, I assure you! It's all dry around the back and under the clutch slave. The oil breather pipe on top of the engine seems dry. Before I take everything apart, is there a drain hole in the airbox? I know oil gets in there quite a bit. That's all I can see up top above where the oil seems to be originating. Any ideas?

Yeah, probably end up doing that, along with the rear wheel if I ever find a cheap drive plate to put on it!

... you haven't got a spare one have you? Mine is one of the rusty ones.

Ok, may have to swap it out for green when I can get my hands on some. There was no scoring in the bearing housing the old bearing was toast though. The spacer is an uneven 113mm, a bit bashed up in places, the collar parts are wavy but I think they are non critical.

Yeah, like when you get it lined up it just slides in, not rattling about.

I put a few spots of what I loctite I had (blue) on there. Do the bearing housings get worn? Seems I can get one for about £150 from gutsibits.

I ended up putting the ti map back on, I couldn't get the idle set up with Meinolf's map, but I gather there is 'a procedure'. For resetting everything to cope with the richness at idle.

Ok, put everything back together, one issue is the new wheel bearing on the cush drive plate went in just as easy as the old one came out, does this mean I need a new drive plate? That might be an issue as ALL the button head bolts that hold it on look chewed up😭

In the UK, at least where I am from, everything seems to be online only. Not many independent fastener stores left, just DIY places that sell general house stuff.

I feel like there might be paint over this rust... At least I cleaned up the driveshaft and greased the notorious front UJ. I should have taken before shots of the back one, was unrecognisable.

Banana may have been an exaggeration.

Hi Steve, I could probably straighten it yes, a replacement is pretty cheap from eBay etc. I meant if you put the bolt through and leave the nut off, and spin it from the socket end, you can see a slight oval movement in the shock and at the threaded end, with it all tight then nothing spins, as you say.

RS is rubber seal H is heavy duty JEM is quiet running, apparently.

Yes... Although I've put it back together! I will take it out and measure it again. I would say there was more than 5mm of exposed thread once the nut is done up, so it wouldn't make much difference either way.

Hmm, the Guzzi parts sites have it at 160mm, based on the part number, I wonder why the discrepancy. There is alot of exposed thread on mine come to think of it.

Good question, I think there's a bit of give on there (rightly or wrongly). If I spin the bolt the other end moves up and down, and the shock end also moves slightly. It may be worth looking out for a swingarm anyway as mine is terribly rusty. Good shout on the bolt, I found a stockist of M12x160 12.9 (marine shop) so may try new as they're cheap.

Thanks, I too used a caliper, had one side much further out that the other, so set it back as I found it! There might have been a reason. So are you saying if I had just wound the pins in till resistance was felt, then back off a tiny bit, I would have been fine?

I suspect that already happened, as it's got an aftermarket shock in there. I *think* SKF are decent quality, I went for SKF 6204-2RSH/C3