Grim

Thanks...I was only joking about hand tight! I used an adjustable spanner. I was surprised that nothing in the toolkit for is all. Everything inspected and greased as I went, the only bad bearing was the one I mentioned, I have bought an SKF one which should turn up Monday. What I really want is a not bent shock bolt! Are they 8.8 high tensile, I got the length but not sure on the thread? Coarse pitch I would say.

Hi... So I has a few hours, and now my wheel and swingarm are on the garage floor... The long bolt holding the shock to the swingarm is bent like a banana. I am heavy, but I don't think this was me. Can I get a replacement? Or what are the specs? A few other observations: The wheel bearing on the drive side of the wheel was loose, found it floating about in the bevel box after knocking the axle out. It is 47mm OD. It is knackered, so I'm slightly worried the 47mm replacement I have ordered will also be loose. I pumped both UJs full of red'n'tacky, whereby it pushed all the old grease out, but on the spline zerk I felt like I was pumping forever and never saw any grease coming out anywhere. I wasn't too worried because I coated the splines before assembly anyway. There is some slight rotational play in the driveshaft before it picks up drive, there is no play in either UJ, or the splines, so it that just the gearbox? All in all though, not a bad job, helps to have the tool kit, but nothing in the toolkit fits the big swingarm locknuts??? Are they just supposed to be hand tight? 😁

Both the ITI and CEV Speedos have their names stamped into the whit plastic housing in the back. I don't have a good photograph of my ITI one, here is the CEV: I can believe the mechanism inside come from some other manufacturer, as it is essentially identical between the two, the CEV just having some better quality parts. It is the plastic body that is slightly different, although not by much! This is my ITI, it has made in Italy just like the one in your photo.

Just an interesting point, the Ducati monster/750ss/900ss CEV / ITI gauges have a metal gear, where the Guzzi one is plastic . I replaced the gears myself in my ITI speedo and it's holding up well, unfortunately the speedo body is 2mm wider otherwise I would have just fit the whole thing! Here is my ITI speedo in pieces with the new parts fitted. So that silver worm gear on my (lovely) workbench is actually sliver plastic, whereas the one I fitted from the Ducati speedo is metal. Likewise for the long gear on the left, the old one is all chewed up as you can see, It is a weird design as it is tapers towards the bottom end and sits over another worm gear that, without enough grease, just rubs a notch in it over time. I also scavenged all the parts for the trip reset knob, which works fine now!

We are ALL VALVE BABY!

Thanks, from what I was reading/watching I get this part, I was interested in the hows and whys of completing this task. If you wanted power "in the old days" you went with torque, your lubrication is crap and you don't want to rev high and blow up, so your cylinder is long and thin, the combusting gas exerts it's force all at once on the piston, the lever is long and you get a big slug of torque. But an oversquare cylinder needs revs to make power, but it's harder to cool with air, and it's hard to rev fast with pushrods 'cos your valves might start to float. So is a guzzi engine kind of on the edge of what is possible with the design? Yeah I get this bit, they want to sell yesterdays tech at tomorrows prices and it works! I was really interested in how the Guzzi engine manages to make decent power, when by some accounts it is hamstrung by it's own design. So to get decent power from a C1100 v-twin, it seems manufactureres tend to make it oversquare, which usually requires water cooling / multi-valves and OHC, Guzzi just didn't seem to go down that road, which I love.

I would go with what he says ^^^ Night and day difference, and if you do it and it still runs like shit then you know at least you have ruled out the obvious!

Engineering wise, it is said that there are specific reasons that Indian can almost double Harley Davidson's bhp when it comes to the 1200 v-twin; those being Harley's marketing department insisting on pushrods and air cooling, necessitating a long stroke undersquare design to allow for slow valve train and maximum surface area for cooling. Indian use an oversquare, 4v, ohc, water cooled design to reach 100 odd bhp from the same displacement, and people make a big deal about it. So how does the air cooled pushrod engine in a Guzzi do almost the same thing? It's oversquare, but not by as much as the Indian 1200, and it's a narrower angle than a Harley, but it still has pushrods, and is also air-cooled (albeit better air-cooled). Could Harley not just follow suit or is it that pesky rear cylinder? PS I am not an engine expert (and it shows) just interested, so if I got some terms wrong I apologize.

My original tank was 2003, and the worst I have ever seen, the PO was using a leather bagster cover for a tank bag. Not sure that was the cause, leather being somewhat breathable. I guess it's luck of the draw

Yeah a full ally tank would be the holy grail, there are a few places in the UK, I've called/emailed alot of them and they either don't want to do it or it would be prohibitively expensive, or they don't answer. What are your reasons for disliking a false cover? Just personal preference or do you foresee some V11 specific problem? I have looked at sealing, too many horror stories of it coming off and going into the fuel lines. Some folks were adamant that the nylon of the V11 tank was to slippery for a seal to get a good hold on, even when agitated with nails etc Perhaps if a garage did it and would guarantee the seal? .

It's starting to look like a good long term option, hey we could alway sell them if it fits nice!!

It must be a bitsa... Yes, long frame, short tank, black ITI clocks.. it's like I got the worst of everything!!

Thanks... wishful thinking on my part. My "new" tank is now starting to go, it was fine, then all of a sudden it was really hard to get back on, and now I can see small bubbles starting on the top.... Although the £700 I was quoted was for the entire job through a professional outfit, I do have the opportunity for a friend to weld an ally tank for free, he just wants me to make the net and cut the sheet metal first. Seems a big job no? Will lose a bit of capacity.

Hi, before i put the hammer down on an internal fuel pump/non-chin pad tank, does anyone have any opinion on that style of tank's ethanol hardiness? Are they also Acerbis? The inside looks "whiter" than the earlier tanks, but do they bubble and warp as badly? I was contemplating making a smaller box tank from ally and just draping the top tank over it like a shell, but this is like £700, I could put a late tank on for £400. Thanks gents

Whilst it didn't solve it, it did give me peace of mind that I could rule them out, plus the old ones would have ripped eventually. What fixed it was re-setting the TPS, balancing the throttle bodies, then balancing air using air screws and a with vac gauge at 3k. Runs lovely now. Except I haven't ridden it during lockdown so I can't enjoy it!

Thanks Noel, I did infact replace both inlet rubbers during my troubles! someone on a facebook group kindly donated them to me to see if it helped. Looking at the originals, they were cracked but definately not all the way through, so probably ok...

Thanks Phil, I felt it was something to do with the battery, I don't get why they would put a bulge there in the seat pan!? Where the batteries lower in the short frame bikes? I'll try without the strap and see, I do have an upholstery stapler, so I could swap the covers over if I have to.

Hi folks, So I bought a v11 seat off eBay, lovely condition, looked fine. Aaaand I've just spent an hour swearing whilst jumping up and down on it. My bike is an 03 I don't know the year of the new seat, I swapped the metal work across just in case and still no luck. The only visual differences are: My seat has rubber grommets where it sits on the frame, new seat does not. My seat is flat over the battery/ECU, new seat has a weird bulge with a sharp cutout around the ECU My seat has brassy metalwork, the new seat has silver. Apart from that things look the same, and I cannot see what it might be hitting, the latch pin at the back seems nowhere near the latch on the bike. Have I got myself a shorty frame seat?

Thanks! Here's a close-up, I used a Shin-Yo fender rear light mounted upside down, it fits great and is very slim, but bright.

I guess there's no video section, but here is a little clip of my ride yesterday:

I hadn't noticed before! I guess it's the last of the chin pad tanks, as it's a 2003 bike. I quite like the way it looks, slightly less "bunched up" at the front. @footgoose The exhaust hangers (and the cans) were custom made by a shop in the UK, which is why I couldn't tell what they were. I went back through the paperwork and found a receipt from Long Life Exhausts, in Bristol.

Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.

Aha, thanks for clarifying, yes we can turn the lights off on UK bikes.... I was wondering if I was going mad.. I had something similar in my imported Yamaha, "starter safety solenoid" or some other grand title. Took it all off and started again with that wiring!

So, it looks like using the old Speedo light power is quite common, I am definitely being stupid here; my original speedo illumination comes on with my light switch, not with ignition.

People who have electronic speedo conversions, where did you take a permanent +12v from? I am a bit aprehensive of running another dedicated live direct from the battery (has 3 wires on the + terminal already). I would like to find a fused 12v somewhere, although looking at the wiring diagram I don't think I'll find one!