Grim

As I need to make a mold, then a plug of the tank ( before making a final mold then laying up carbon fibre/kevlar), I would need to source a pump and the mounting plate first (my spare tank that I am taking the initial mold from is an external pump model) in order to rework the plug to feature a larger flat area and cut-out for the internal pump. I guess I can't avoid this step if I want to get rid of the chin pad anyway! I take it the wiring from the external pump is easy enough to graft on to the internal pump??

Firstly, thanks for all the input. Yes, the idea was to keep the standard cap because I live in England and a locking cap is sensible. I also was thinking I would like to replicate the current tank mounts/holes, that way if I need to make another one, or someone else wants one, the tank will accept the Guzzi cap. A race cap with a locking tool would be an acceptable solution though, although I dislike having things on keyrings! Can I ask why? If it's a 43psi Suzuki pump or something like that, is it very different to the Guzzi pump? The pressure is the same, but I might be over simplifying things. My only thoughts on the Guzzi pump is that it requires a very large hole, and that they seem expensive to buy. A Suzuki pump is relatively cheap in comparison.

Hi, If I were to make my own fuel tank, there would be a few things that I might question: 1. I had originally planned to re-use my fuel cap, but the vent tubes running through the tank would be awful to try and replicate. Would I be better off using a different filler from some other bike (annoying to have to use 2 different keys), or could you modify the existing filler to vent "normally". 2. Since I have free reign over the final tank layout, would a straight copy of my external pump tank be sensible, or would anyone do some tidying up? Perhaps stick an common in-tank pump in there from a Japanese bike instead, or smooth out the top and lose the chin pad? Thanks for your input.

Yeah, the guy who sold it to me is on here, and whilst it isn't his bike, he knows it well. The stack of receipts for regular servicing and replacement parts, along with the knowledge it's been all over europe (round the Nurburgring quite recently!) puts my mind at rest about how well it's been looked after. It has been well used (that's what they're for), and I guess after shelling out for a new stator, the mechanic couldn't source a stator housing at the time and did a repair. The owner was aware of this, and it has worked up till now. I guess as a new owner I'm looking to put things back to standard, and not knowing why it looked the way it did, put it to the forum for answers. I know that all I need is a stator housing, but finding one is proving difficult! Thanks

So, here's a thing.... The exhaust collars don't particularly want to easily locate on the new studs, the old studs are a little bent, and rusted away to practically 6mm round on the non threaded part. Now, the old ones came out as bolts because of the rust, so I never had to get the collar off over the bolts, should it slide freely on/off? The threads on the head are clean and true, so I don't know if that mean my collars are warped or something? Given that my new studs are a little shorter, I would rule out the angle between the studs becoming more obtuse as they get further out. Update: Yes, they were bent... Quick introduction to Terry the 10 Tonne Press.... And we're on. So, how can I clean these things up, are they stainless? They certainly aren't magnetic!

You'd love owning a Yamaha XS650 then.... I think Yamaha would claim the spring washers are "insurance".

With brass nuts, I'm ashamed to say I just go with "tight.. but not too tight...." I have put spring washers in there for a bit of tension before.

Hi, just thought I would post some more research, I was looking for exhaust studs, as mine had turned into exhaust bolts🤔. I found various near misses, but wasn't happy with the thread lengths. I certainly my did not want stainless (I have been stung before!). I discovered some Ford models have nearly exactly the same studs for mounting Weber DCO/E carbs, the inner thread and smooth section are exact, the outer thread is a couple mm shorter. Burton Power make performance parts for Fords, and so you can get 4 nice high tensile studs and 4 extra wide brass nuts for £10. I love brass nuts, it appeals to my inner (or outward) coward; that brass will go long before the stud or head (that is the theory). Here they are next to my old ones: And in, but not nipped up yet: Compared to other studs sold as "Guzzi V11" parts on eBay etc. they are nice and cheap. And I believe they are a quality part. https://www.burtonpower.com/stud-m8-x-45mm-inlet-manifold-each-studm8.html https://www.burtonpower.com/brass-nut-m8-extra-wide-nbm8.html Of course you could use the standard done nuts if you liked. Thanks for reading! Edit: I have looked into them a bit further, they are Weber DCO/E carb studs

Couldn't bring meself to run an extra wire down the front and leave the gearbox drive just sitting there doing nowt!

I've been doing a little bit of research and have found out 2 things, Japanese car manufactureres have teneded to use M22x1.5 threaded gearbox sensors with a tabbed drive, and Ford europe and other Euro makes tend to use M18x1.25 for gearbox sensors and have 3mm square drive; these are the both where the sensors that have a female thread -- I guess it was cheaper at some point to take the gearbox drive "as is" and adapt a sensor to use the existing drive. Guzzi used M16x1 (super fine) on the V11 gearbox speedo drive, which is weird enough given that earlier and later bikes use M12.... So the pitch is different, we cant use something like a helicoil as an adapter, bugger. Looking at thread adapters online, precisely none of them go as fine as 16x1, you can find M16x1.265 to M18x1.25 easy enough. Making my own at this size would be fiddly, so on to the Japanese M22 thread. I was aware of the limited space under the TB link, so didn't want to go mad on height, there are lots of this kind of thing about: But I felt this might go to high, especially with the wires coming out the top, I eventually found this: In the UK this is sold for Toyota land cruisers and Izuzu troopers, but it is common to loads of 90s Japanese vehicles. In the US I found it on Ebay listed as "VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR 3 MALE TERMINALS FOR 1998-2002 ISUZU TROOPER 8971297270". You can pull the tab drive out of the sensor, and luckily it is 2.5mm square drive behind there, just like the Guzzi speedo drive! So I purchased a (long) length of brass 2.5mm square rod. I also bough a waterproof Toyota VSS sensor plug, for the sake of being neat and tidy. Next I made up an aluminium adapter, M16x1 on the inside and M22x1.5 on the outside, I made it long and then cut it down to length, I also had to tap the crappy chinese brass(?) threads as they were a bit notchy: I could probably flatten this off a tiny bit more! Anyway, that is where I am right now, I should add there is a gasket inside there, so it should prevent oil leaks. Just need to wire everything up now and calibrate the speedo off the sensor.

There are some vicious speed bumps in the UK.... Strange that the cover didn't sustain any damage, although there is the one broken thread. I suppose a pertenant question would be, what stator housings fit, it *looks* like 1100, Quota and Nevada 750 stators are the same?

Thanks, do you think then, since there is clearly some bodging here, that there is something wrong with the stator? I figured it might be some kind of anti-rattle measure? I am happy to buy a new stator, just wasn't sure what was even going on here!

Sorry, I'm rubbish at explaining... Here is a photo to show what I mean. What you can't see here is that the threaded part for the lower left bolt has been snapped off!! So I guess I only need to buy 3 bolts. Although the thread is questionable in the remaining holes, so a tap/helicoil might be in order.....☹️

Cool, cheers. Any idea about the hose clip around the alternator? It's situated in the groove around the middle of stator, where you can see the bolts normally peeking through on their way into the block.

Hello, After noticing a high speed rattle for a few days, it seems that 3 of my generator cover bolts have rattled themselves out down the road at some point. When removing the cover I noticed that there is a large worm drive hose clip around the entire generator body, is this some kind of attempt to stope the main generator bolts rattling out or is is supposed to be there? The generator body doesn't look cracked or damaged. Also, what bolts hold the cover on, M5 coarse thread? I guess thread lock is in order for re-intallation.... P.S parts-catalogue says no. GU98310631 6x30. Is there a way to read the part numbers for bolts like with Yamaha I see a 6 and a 3 at the end, but not sure about the pitch of the thread..... Thanks

I have attempted to use a reverse drill bit to get the snapped off bolt from the airbox, it did not go very well! The drill did bite, but it is close to the threads in the airbox and it didn't loosen the bolt at all. I am not sure how to remove threaded inserts without destroying the plastic?

Thank you! Believe it or not there is no clear coat -- I used something called "Simoniz tough paint" on top of standard plastic primer. I let it cure for a couple of days then used some cutting paste and then a resinb polish. After all this work I put the panels back on, looking lovely... Then I went to test my new tank/fuel lines... aaaaand the line to the regulator on the right of the tnak sprayed petrol all over my newly painted panel! Luckily, the tough paint lived up to it's name, and it appears to be petrol/ethanol resistant, so after another polish it was saved!

Well, due to my side panels being horrible and scratched, I sanded them down and painted them, then stuck my badges back on, not bad for rattle cans!

I bought some thinner wall Gates mpi hose, its 8mm ID 14mm OD. This was more flexible and I was able to get a nice smooth run. I groomed the loom inboard a bit, so it runs up the side of the spine and doesnt end up in the same place as the fuel hose. There is still a lot of "contact" between the airbox and pretty much everything in the vicinity, and as much as I hate doing it, just pushing the airbox down and tightnening it up allow things to go back together. It doesn't help that someone managed to snap of BOTH side airbox rear bracker bolts, one side in the frame tab, one side in the airbox! I tried reverse drilling out the airbox one to no avail.

Apart from a slight difference in wonkiness, then yes, they match. Winner winner!

This is a relatively pointless exercise in pedantry, but were there any hard and fast rules about what was stuck on the side panels or was it just a typical Friday afternoon job of whatever came to hand? From the dates stamped on mine, one is from 2003 and one is from 2001. Both have black and silver chequered flag stickers, but no Italian flag and no text. Looking at ebay side panels, most I can see have either text denoting the model variant, or an Italian flag plus the chequered flag. I found one similar to mine on a Cafe sport, which my bike is not. Of course, the panels may have been replaced, but they are the right kind of age and condition to suggest they are original.

Hah. Yeah it's sealed and waterproof, the bezel is actually part of the body, quite solid for a Chinese thing. I guess I might want to think about the back of the original dash cover where the speedo cable used to go, the plug is at the top of this unit, but some kind of silicon sealant might not go amiss. P.S. The needle does a little "sweep" when powered on, how sweet.

Sorry to drag this up! Firstly, nice job (does the ETB Speedo still work?) Secondly, does the ETB not require permanent live for odometer memory? The one I just bought has permanent AND switched power. Cheers.

I have been reading troutman's thread about the ETB speedos, and after searching around for alternatives, I recently found this in the UK (although it will be Chinese) from a shop called Rally Designs It's 80mm and 30mm deep after the bezel. I bought it because it looked kind of OK and wasn't massively expensive, it may be a tad optimisic... It has bewildering instructions, but I think it will do the job (but for how long ) . I have managed to get it working on a bench, and figured out how to set speed which involves riding at a steady 20 Kph and hitting the button!!!! I've just noticed fingerprints (glue?) on the inner bezel, do you think someone manage to open it up and prolong it's life!?