droydx

This exact same thing happened to me about 3 weeks ago on my RC. Was riding home on a back road having a great time...looked down and saw my tach not working...oh oh. About 5 minutes later my bike started running rough, on one cylinder, then just died. I was able to find a nice Oak shade tree and called for a tow pickup home. Attempts to restart were met with no cranking. After checking all, decided to put in some reserve OMRON relays that I had (should've done this on the side of the road). Anyway, after doing a full tune up, oil change and under tank check on all the connectors, she fired right up and is good to go again. I do think it was the #2, which I didn't think was as susceptible to issues as the starter circuit. Andy

Probably best to search for a new unit: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=322555 I was able to change the broken front glass on my 03 Rosso Corsa with that from a sport...now I'm not sure if it would work for your situation. Stock replacements were few even 15 years ago. I remember having to slowly use a dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the glass from the sport headlight. I wanted the clear lens off the sport, I think (this was years ago) that I was able to seal the new lens back on my existing lemans bucket, but the sport unit was trashed in the process of getting the glass. Doing research back then, I believe a early to mid 2000's BMW headlight module could replace the stock unit, but it had fluted glass, unlike the clear lens on the MG. I run a plexiglass cover over my headlight now to ward off rock strikes.

Miles Davis - "It's not the notes you play, it's the notes you don't play.

Yup, and they make removing and installing the alternator cover a lot harder than it should be too. Mistral makes cross over-less header pipes. I recently got rid of my originals with the cross overs. MG cycle sells/distributes them in the USA. I have a set of solid metal shims that replace the crappy gaskets in the original x-overs that I will post in the classified soon for sale.

I secured a ram mount into the blanking plug on the top of the triple tree. The plug is fairly thin and I bolted through it after drilling a hole. Works well, my phone is easy to see as it is fully adjustable. I have a USB port that runs off my battery mounted on the left side of plastic frame cover just below the clip on bars, so it stays charged for navigation. Andy

It gets pretty warm inland from where I live on California central coast, and I've seen the guage register 100 F on several occasions. The calibration is done on my unit by rotating the thermal expansion coil so the needle reads the current ambient temp. There is a plastic backing inside the stainless back ring, which would seem to allow some degree of thermal expansion, although I think the silicon oil is fairly expansion/contraction stable under normal climate heat range.

My Formotion gauges are 10+ years old on my 03 Rosso...... have held up well even with just stick on tape and velcro mounts on my fairing inner. I have to change clock batteries about every 12 - 18 months and I just recently had to refill my thermometer with silicon oil, which was easy to do, and recalibrate the temperature. Quality stuff! Andy

+1 for the work that Joel does. Great communication and turnaround on my ITI speedometer, which has always been wonky since about 2005. I had an issue with my odometer reset knob being stripped and he patiently explained that I could fix it to fit...and he was right after I made a flat spot to engage the flat spot on the output shaft. Also.....I can't believe that I was able to reinstall the knob without loosing that tiny little set screw that holds it on to the shaft! Winning!!! Andy

Glad to see this, thanks for posting. I've been patiently waiting to hear that someone can repair the ITI speedo's and I will definitely be contacting him to fix mine! Andy

Yup, "You dont miss your water...till your well runs dry..."

Yes, old retired firefighter here...38 years of service...most with City of Santa Barbara FD. Going across Pine Mountain area, you can drop down 95 through the Bitter Creek Wildlife area...its an amazing road with so many twists and turns...it will really give you a work out. It goes all the way down to the 33/166 corridor. If you continue through Frazier Park you can go down Lockwood Valley Rd, where it ties into 33, near Ozena fire station.

Take HWY 33 from Ojai, and cross over through the mountains near Ozena fire station....Pine Mountain intersection and then down to New Cuyama and out to the coast. I used to work at Rose Valley near the top of the mountains for the Forest Service on a Helicopter crew and that was a daily commute. Its a great road, often used to film car and motorcycle adverts.

just seat of the pants...they seem to give a little more mid range torque and put out a slightly deeper sound than the stock ones with cross over. However, its probably all in my head (gotta justify the expense!). MG cycle is the USA distributor for Mistral and they were fast to ship. Great service.

Took old Red out for a test ride with the new downpipes...central coast California, out on Hwy 166. Here at the Willow trailhead on the Los Padres N.F.

Last weekend I added a Carbon weave alternator cover on my Rosso...along with changing out the damn crossover pipe with a set of Mistral down tubes. The cover I got was from Pomponi's Garage. Claudio did a really nice job on the part and was great communicating with me from Italy. This picture shows the cover with the old cross over pipe, which was a beeyatch to seal (even with a solid shim kit) and was always in the way. The new Mistrals sound great, were easy to fit. They run into a Stucchi x-over and a set of Mistral Titanium ovals.

Super slow on this one, but will be shooting PayPal for 2 springs this afternoon. Thanks for making this happen! Andy

Those very same bikes were for sale when I had my 1974 Norton Commando, back in 1976......its kind of a museum, but still a cool place!

Good idea about using a poly cutting board to use the factory stand! Thanks docc!

Yup, they work fine. I have used mine a ton and it's holding up. You can't beat the price/value. As everyone has said, plan on replacing the front wheel clamp with a ride on type. The Stock unit will hold up a Honda CT90, but not much else. The shipping box is huge and realllllly heavy, so factor in a large pickup to get it, and some help to load and unload the beast. I decided to unload mine at home by myself and ended up dropping the thing on my foot. Damn it hurt something awful for the longest time! Andy

A buddy of mine has the EBC rotors on his bike, along with their sintered pads and raves about them. The replacement rotors are item VR614gld. I think the pads are item FA244HH. They come stock with a black center hub, but the gold is available as special order and looks good ala "brembo". They look good. The rotors are wave design, so they are different looking than the stock brembos, but are lighter. http://ebcbrakes.com/Assets/ecatalogues/AUG_2016_USA_Motorcycle_Catalogue/USA-MC-August.html#p=100 Andy

https://www.amazon.com/MOTUL-7100-Synthetic-Ester-Motor/dp/B00IKCYD76/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479643459&sr=8-4&keywords=motul+10-60 since the 15-50 is ridiculously expensive, and Guzzi recommends 10-60 any more, I go with it. Damnnnnn tooting! Next round I'm in with that. I get my Redline Heavy via Amazon, and I'll get my Motul there too. Thanks Chuck. Andy

+1 for Motul. I've been using the full synthetic 15 - 50 300V Motul for about 6 years and the inside of my case is shinny clean....it's amazing oil but hella expensive at around $19.00 US for a liter. I did about 10 K break in miles with conventional oil and then switched over to full synthetic, first Mobil 1, then Motul. Andy

Chuck, thanks so much! I'll finalize PayPal with you tomorrow AM. Andy