guzziart

Hey Rox, Good luck with your sale. I've had mine up for 6 weeks now with no real interest. I'm kinda thinking about letting the ad run out and repost next Spring. The few I've seen on FB & BaT didn't sell but I think the asking price was in excess of $7k. Art

My original equipment sensor was close to an interference fit in the bore due to swelling. I recall measuring it and found the o.d along its length varied. Probably one of the reasons I replaced it eventually. And, of course, idk if the replacement sensor is marginally in spec, I got it from one of our popular MG parts suppliers, so who knows. In either case I recall both sensors having a slight texture to their surface, not good for something that seals by way of an oring imo. Yeah, I'd really be bummed if I had to pull the cam chain housing apart to drive out a broken sensor, I oughtta quit complaining while I'm ahead.

Very nice! Maybe post a hot link to cycletrader ad. Art

My IMHO, that timing sensor is wrong for the application. It wouldn't surprise me if it turned out that the sensor was never designed for use in "wet" applications. I fiddled trying to seal the original with a new oring, the specified oring, two small orings, several types of sealers, jb weld, etc. I finally gave up, installed a new sensor, specified oring and some gasket sealer....still not happy with the results. However, every other stupid minute leak, weep or seep I had on the bike was resolved to my satisfaction. Yeah, as mentioned in another post here, the sensor does "swell", I don't know if it is from the engine heat, synthetic oil, i don't know. Other v11's I've seen have the leak, seep, weep, there too. Maybe there are a combination of issues there..wrong sensor for the application, oring size/material, sensor bore/counter bore incorrectly machined into the block or specs are out of tolerance or wrong. Who knows??!! OK, now I'm venting....apparently. Anyway, thanks for listening, there are far worse things that can afflict our v11's, have a nice day! Art

Yeah, I marked up my relays, fuses, etc. after seeing yours Doc but mine aren't as elegant.

I oughta print this diagnostic rundown and carry it on the bike and leave a copy in the shop manual.

Harpers I ain't had very good luck lately with fleabay new/used stuff for sale but what do I know. That stand bracket looks to be cast aluminum, bends one way but not so easily back the other way without breaking is a ferrous material. Definitely possible to straighten with heat I guess. I like the idea of checking securement hardware at oil change/annual checklist item or possibly using locktite (medium) or lock washers. Good luck.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/mcy/d/chagrin-falls-2003-moto-guzzi-v11-lemans/7770624423.html Yeah, it's time for me to let someone else enjoy this awesome machine. Art 8/24/24 Update: Now in the hands of it's next caretaker!

Yep. I used the 2375 for the short run to the reservoir. I use the F4040A as fuel supply on my carbureted bikes since it is fuel rated and fuel is gravity fed to the carbs. However, the F4040A does not like heat so I end up replacing the lines every few years....discoloration is the first sign of impending failure. Also, I buy this stuff at McMaster-Carr, they have an awesome on-line catalog, reasonable prices and super quick shipping. They're local to me, I place an order and can pick it up within an hour. As for bleeding hydraulics I've always used a vacuum bleeder....Mity Vac hand pump, home made vac out of a one gallon pickle jar (it'll suck cold gear oil too!) but more recently I bought this https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html It was inexpensive and works good. I believe gravity bleeding works well too, I just don't have the patience for it because I feel it is a little more time consuming. As for flushing out debris that may be in the circuit, I change fluid every 2-4 years and don't give debris much thought. On old bkes I've acquired where there is shmutz in the rez, I wipe it out and hope for the best with a couple flushes, my '87 LMIVSE was in bad shape, it was obvious a master cylinder overhaul was the solution. Art

FWIW, I replaced my plug wires about 4 years ago with NGK CR5 plug wires during a tank-off because one of the oe wire boots had obvious damage. I now see that the cr5's have been discontinued.

I had both leak... first it was the cam timing sensor so I replaced it after numerous attempts with new orings, JB weld the top & cable coming from it, etc. The other leak was the cam chain cover on the right side of engine. For the cam chain cover gasket, I went with "genuine" guzzi composite. The other gaskets I had bought (aftermarket composite & paper) were not cut imo properly...gasket bolt holes did not line up with bolt holes in the cover without distorting the gasket. Yeah, I know MG doesn't make their own gaskets...just saying the MG offering lays flat & all the holes line up as they should...no distortion. Also, I think I read somewhere that while the original was paper, it was superceded to a composite around 2005. Anyway, the MG composite gasket went on dry, no sealer, no leaks. Art

Fwiw, the 35mm negatives have worked great for me over the years but I've not yet tried it on inverted forks. And, the film thing didn't work on my Wing last Fall so I bit the bullet and bought a Seal Doctor at RevZilla. The Seal Doctor worked great! It was hard to believe how much crap the Seal Doctor pulled out over and above what the 35mm film had removed. While I do my best to routinely make sure my fork tubs are clean and free of bug goo & dirt, the newest bike I have now is in excess of 16 years old so if I do experience a fork leak that film or Seal Dr can't resolve, I really can't complain. Also, FWIW, check this guy out....

I copied Chuck's method so I wouldn't have to dig deeper into my wallet for the stuff that shows up better on the dipstick.

Thanks for that one! I wondered why those graphics but I understand now. Art

I think I'd be happy to get $6k for my '03 Lemans with 13k miles on it and it has a working odometer. Any takers??!!

Figures! I'll have to get off my wallet again seeing as the Vintage brand fits ok with the plastic bucket on the V11 Lemans.

My LED headlight bulb experiences with the V11 Lemans.... 1st LED was a few millimeters too long on the backside and caused an interference fit with the back of the bucket so, that didn't work. 2nd LED was the same overall dimensions as the oem H4, it fit, it worked fine with the inside shield. However, the LED was an "off brand" for about $15, it only lasted a few weeks. I reinstalled the original bulb. I'll probably get back to installing a "good" quality LED headlight bulb one of these days. I liked the lower current draw on the electrical system with the LED in place.

FWIW....Tennessee annual purchase date registration is a pita imho, I would definitely get in trouble. However, I like the registration game Ohio has the same 25 yo "historical" tag option with conditions and requires renewal every 50 years....yeah, 50 years. With all the junk I have the historical option saves me alot in annual registration fees. Further, Ohio allows owners to replate vehicles with tags from that era. My '71 cb350 has a plate that was "minted" in '71...yellow with black lettering, the '72 cl350 & Eldo have plates stamped out in '72...they're dark blue with yellow lettering. It's kinda neat running around on an old bike with a plate that was stamped out in the same year the bike was manufactured. One of my riding buds, who has an old Eldo too teases me that his Eldo is original, whereas mine is not because I did the gen to alternator conversion. My response is that my bike has the original plate that was issued to the bike in '72, so there! I had bought the bike from the original owner and he managed to save & include the plate with the bike purchase. Although my friend got his Eldo from his dad, his originally issued registration plate is long gone. We have fun goofing on each other over stupid stuff...obviously, I guess. On another note, I have a 4' x 8' 1500lb gvwr trailer I bought new in '90 for $400, I use it two or three times a year. In the 33 years of ownership it has cost me over $1200 in registration fees.

Me too....it wasn't the "high cam/cold start assembly" though, it was a commonly available chrome plated rusty friction type piece of 5#it.

My Wing has cc, it really comes in handy on long stretches of interstate when going out for 2-3 weeks. The MG v85tt has peaked my interest since I'm looking to downsize from the wing and also replace my wee Strom the was totalled last May, the v85 has cc. The v85 is also a lot less $$$ than other bikes with cc (bmw gs, honda africa twin, suzi Vstrom1050, etc.). And, my arthritic right wrist likes th ebenefits of cc too.

I'm glad Ohio has it annually, registrations expire on the owners birthday, the state sends out notifications about 6 weeks before expiration. These days the state allows us to register for a two year period instead of one...our choice but there's no break in fees... a two year is twice as much. If you buy mid year the registration fee is prorated. If you sell and buy something else, the transfer fee is minimal. If you sell and don't replace the registration fee is non-refundable. Registrations can be had at the "Registrars" office or online....online is super convenient especially if you've got multiple vehicles. They'll take a check, cash or card at the office but a card will be an additional 3%. Online they take a check routing number or cc but a cc will cost an additional 3%.

Hi, I pull the pan on my V11 Lemans when replacing the filter. The original owner put a hose clamp on the filter to keep it from working itself loose so I kept up with the technique. With the hose clamp the filter can't be removed through the filter port in the pan. Plus, I think he may have boogered up the filter cover threads or pan threads...I've not attempted to remove round port cover. I also use a hose clamp on the filter of my LMIV & Eldo. My experience has been that the rubber oil filter base gasket looses tension between filter changes. The hose clamp keeps the filter from rotating loose as the base gasket tension diminishes. As long as the filter doesn't rotate theres a good chance oil pressure won't diminish to critical low levels. My personal experiences with my older MG's has been that the filter is nowhere near as tight when I go to remove it as it was when I installed it. However, since I replace the filter every 2nd oil change maybe the base gaskets have improved over the years and it will be different once I exhaust my current filter inventory. IDK. Art

Sitting here in my recliner.........Maybe a weak ground connection??!! You could try grounding the horns separately to see if the condition changes to where it doesnt effect the tach function. idk. I'm sure someone will be along soon to offer other ideas/fixes. Art