guzziart

In February I put the original rear drive back into my V11 and had the shaft out to clean & service but I can't seem the pinch bolt torque specs now. I'm am confident I torqued those bolts but I can't seem to find the values in my shop manual or notes. Oh, and my drive shaft still had the factory yellow alignment marks on it.

Yes, I think you've summed it up very well!

...here is some of it.. I installed the Electrosport ESR531 Reg/Rect and ESG814 Stator, it was plug & play, no wiring mods were required but I still made sure the ESR531 case was grounded, I had already had a ground tap on the old reg/rect. However, Electroport stated it was not needed and claimed nothing grounds through ESR531 housing. The V11's main harness connector was in excellent condition which I was happy to see. I added headlight (2) relay harness but right now I can't recall if it was Greg Bender's or Eastern Beaver. And, yes headlight gets feed from the battery, relay coils are triggered by oe headlight wiring. I'm really kinda sketchy on the reference voltage thing....I think the last time i looked at the schematic nothing rang a bell in my mind. So, am I right to think the voltage drop in the headlight circuit no longer exists and therefore the reg/rect maintains a lower system voltage???!!! I seem to recall you or others talking about the reference voltage issue. Thoughts/advice? My V11 Lemans is an '03 if that matters. My max system voltage at the battery is 13.98vdc now at 3k-4krpm. Three years ago I had guzzidiag hooked up and had 14.13vdc at 1100 rpm, now it is 12.8-12.9 at 1200 rpm. Did I goof with the headlight relays? I suppose I could pull the fairing, disable the headlight relay circuit and revert to oem to see if it makes a difference. The headlight relay set-up was all plug & play too as I recall. I added a 6th relay to handle starter HC. I got the relay & harness from greg bender. And I just replaced the other 5 relays with CIT #A11CSQ12VDC1.5R relays. I added a redundant ground from batt Neg to the frame. I gotta go, my head is about to blow up....

Yeah, without this board I'd be in more trouble than I'm already in.

Kiwi Roy, Yeah, I have no idea what my inrush current numbers are, I'll take your word for it that they are "high" for a few milliseconds. My D'arsonval meter goes as high as 50amps and has no circuit protection (stupid me). Anyway, I got to thinking my old meter could be giving erroneous readings so i hooked up my digital vom that has a 10 amp fuse for meter protection and jumped the starter again, The current draw was 4-5 amps once the display semi stabilized and the starter was cranking the engine. There is something else you could try with your Ammeter, disconnect the main positive lead to the solenoid, now your inrush current will last as long as the spade connector is powered up, because the starter armature will never see +12 Volts it effectively keeps the heavy current (Grunt Coil) in circuit. The 15 Amp fuse will blow in < 1 second so be prepared to replace that with a 20. .......Nope, ain't gonna do it, no need to, I have no high draw, starter cranks fine. And yeah, I know what happens if I disconnect the heavy gauge battery HOT at the starter and engage the pull-in coil....high draw until I de-energize circuit. Plus with my luck lately I'd booger something up and need a new solenoid. Tell me.....If you disconnect the 16ga primary feed to your starter solenoid on your bike and jump battery pos. to the male spade terminal on the starter solenoid, what is the solenoid current draw a few milliseconds after the starter ramps up to what sounds like normal cranking rpm? Mine is 4-5amps. If guys are getting 10a, 15a, 20amp draws, you got problems, that is all I'm saying. Art

Yeah, I definitely leak more than my bikes. One nice thing is that I replaced all the relays last week on the Lemans so, one less thing to worry about and the price was right!

I've got a Kuryakyn LED thing that the previous owner installed, it did a good job alerting me to my charging system failure so for the time being I'll stick with it. Those digital voltmeters are nice though and inexpensive, for about $8 or less on ebay you can't go wrong. If I could only get motivated to put them on all my other junk. I was disappointed with the idle output of the new stator & reg/rec asm. but cranked the idle up another 75rpm (to slightly under 1200 rpm) so I'm not dropping down to battery voltage at idle now and the K-LED is "green". I don't know...does it really matter bumping up the idle to lessen battery drain? I don't idle that much now that I think about it, coulda probably left the idle where it was.

Hey Kiwi Roy, I jumped batt + to the starter solenoid male spade terminal on my '03 V11 Lemans with a D'arsonval movement ammeter. On my first attempt the meter bounced to 7amps and then came down to 4a during cranking, my 2nd attempt the needle went to 4amps and remained during cranking until I disconnected power. So, I guess if some folks are getting substantially higher current draws in the starter primary circuit, they have a problem...shorted solenoid pull in or hold in coils, dirty contact in solenoid not allowing hold-in to energize. On the other hand, I wonder how many are encountering cranking problems as a result of excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit...poor switch/relay contacts, etc. Yeah, it sucks as these bikes get older and oddball things begin to manifest.

Thanks Docc! It looks like Digi-Key has stock, they're $2.55 each....I think I'll pull the trigger....I'll buy 5. Art

Hi, OK, I've read this thread and the (Solved!) Had to get a jump start from roadside assistance; starter motor not cranking after a chilly night; intermitent issue?! . Am I understanding correctly that the general concensus here is to go with the CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R relay since the Omron G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 is no longer available??!! If the answer is yes, please disregard the following. I guess my corn-fusion is whether or not someone has actually ran the A11CSQ12VDC1.5R? And, it can be used in any/all of the relay bases. Does the A11CSQ12VDC1.5R have a 1.2w, 1.5w or 1.7w coil?....Does the coil wattage matter? I apologize if you've answered this before...several times. Thanks, Art

Hi, FWIW, I installed a "high current" starter relay as described here previously. I got a relay & harness assembly from Greg Bender (This Old Tractor) that was basically "plug and play". His assembly comes with a relay base that piggy backs on to the existing relay bank, a 30/87 harness runs down to the starter solenoid (one lead plugs into starter, the other plugs into existing 87 from OE start relay) and a fused batt Pos lead to HC relay term 30. It works great and mimics what gstallons described earlier. On another note, I checked solenoid draw. With the engine cold, jumping from bat Pos to the solenoid terminal on the starter my intial draw was 7amps and as the starter engaged and began cranking the draw dropped to 4amps. On my 2nd attempt the intial draw was 4amps and remained at 4 amps. I didn't try a 3rd time. Oh...this was on my '03 Lemans. PS - I also posted this at "(solved) Had to get a jump start from roadside assistance...."

Hi, FWIW, I installed a "high current" starter relay as described here previously. I got a relay & harness assembly from Greg Bender (This Old Tractor) that was basically "plug and play". His assembly comes with a relay base that piggy backs on to the existing relay bank, a 30/87 harness runs down to the starter solenoid (one lead plugs into starter, the other plugs into existing 87 from OE start relay) and a fused batt Pos lead to HC relay term 30. It works great. On another note, I checked solenoid draw. With the engine cold, jumping from bat Pos to the solenoid terminal on the starter my intial draw was 7amps and as the starter engaged and began cranking the draw dropped to 4amps. On my 2nd attempt the intial draw was 4amps and remained at 4 amps. I didn't try a 3rd time. Oh...this was on my '03 Lemans. PS - I also posted this at Starter Interuptus thread.

Hi, I just installed a new reg & stator, have the headlight on a relay, a 2 year old Odyssey PC545 battery and I'm getting 12.9-13vdc at the battery @ 1100rpm, 13.6vdc max at higher rpms. So, I am now off to the garage to attempt to find a problem. I expected to see around 14vdc... However, the last time I saw 14.1 vdc on this bike was with guzzidiag reporting the system voltage, no aux headlight relay installed yet whereas now I've got the hdl on a relay circuit and I'm checking system voltage with a digital multimeter at the battery.

Yeah, I use the rear wheel method to get to TDC otherwise I have to remove the header pipes (because of crossover) to remove the stator cover to access the crank nut. Speaking of stator covers, I've got mine off right now because I'm in the middle of replacing the stator. Anyway, the battleship flat gray paint on the cover was chipped & bubbling so I removed all the paint and primed it with rustoleum self etching primer and plan on topping it with VHT Wheel paint (polyurethane). I honestly don't know what I'm doing especially when it comes to paint so feel free to advise! I never liked the gray the was on the cover but didn't have any success finding something similar so I went with VHT's sp188 ford argent silver. Whatta ya's think? One isn't compatible with the other ?

I'm a little late to the post here but I had the same problem...couldn't tell what the trans level was because of pink crud encrusted sightglass. Well, instead of replacing trans oil with shockproof like the PO had been running, I replaced the oil with the specified amount of sae 80w90 (valvoline or the like because I was trying to be trifty) and called it a day. The bike needed so much other routine maint stuff I figured I'd deal with the sightglass some other time, I just wanted to get the bike running good. Sometime & miles later during an engine oil change I was pleasantly surprised to find that the trans sightglass was perfectly clean as it displayed a light tea colored oil on the other side of the glass. So, if you aint pulled the glass yet and you're not running the red stuff you may want to give it a few K miles, it might "self" clean. Art

Yeah, after reading posts in this thread and in another one or two, I'm going to add a 6th relay. In a former post here somewhere I saw a diagram by Stewgnu where a 6th "High Current" relay was added, that will be the way I proceed with this to prevent a potential future problem. I think it is along the same lines as what Gstallions described above. On my 03 Lemans, I've got, what seems to me, a 16 ga. brn/blk to the starter solenoid....not very heavy gauge wire for carrying any kind of substantial current. So, I'm kind of wondering how much current is actually flowing through there once the solenoid hold-in coil takes over after the pull-in coil has been initiated. I have a couple things going on with Lemans right now but once I get it somewhat more together where I can re-connect the batt, etc., I plan on jumping battery+ to the solenoid spade terminal with an ammeter in between to see what the draw is. I imagine the draw might be high for the first few milliseconds but after that I would expect to see 8 amps or less. Just curious I guess....and maybe too much time on my hands.

Hey Stewgnu, I'm with you, it took me a while to figure out what was going on here...in this thread. A few years ago the subject came up somewhere so, I looked at the wiring diagram, saw a starter relay and figured I was fine. This morning I pulled out the diagram for my '03 V11 Lemans, took a look and discovered that mine is pulling starter solenoid current through the ignition switch too. I haven't had a start problem yet but suppose it would eventually happen. The fix is probably less expensive than replacing a burned up ign sw. So, now I guess I've got a little more work to do. I'll have to re-read this whole thread, didn't recall seeing a step by step process but did see the 6th relay added to the bank that looks great and the CIT relay brand comments. Art

...Not afraid of splicing anything. The insulation had melted into the wire strands where the burned pin connectors were originally. I had to remove a lot of the stator wiring then to salvage the stator. This time it was the plug & wiring at the voltage regultor to stator connection. Why MG had pin connectors plus spade connectors in the stator wiring to the voltage regulator is anyone's guess but with the new replacement stator & reg. there will be one connection versus two or more in the stator circuit.. And I will be able to continue using the OE spade connector from the reg. to the batt. which has nothing wrong with it. Yeah, I could have saved myself $300 by seeing how much more I could trim out, hardwire & replace this area but then it would be an issue in the future for me or the next caretaker to check stator voltage, etc. I guess in this circumstance I didn't feel trying to salvage these 20 year old items would be an improvement. Art

Yeah, I reached out to Electrosport for clarification on the electrical connection compatibility. I'm looking at their ESG814 Stator & ESR515 Regulator/rectifier....the stator has a sqare plug with spade connectors & their reg/rect has an SAE connector & 3 male pin connectors so, how does one plug into the other??. I really don't want to be splicing/cobbling stuff together, would prefer a "plug & play" set-up. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today or tomorrow...even though I'm not in a big hurry to spend money. On the plus side, Electrosport offers a one year warranty with no Odyssey battery disclaimer. It looks like I could have some of the same connector issues with Euro Motoelectric stuff too.

Hi, Well, I guess I wont be checking stator voltage after seeing this. I'm not gonna try splice this mess out. When I replaced the pin connectors a few years ago I noticed that the insulation had become so hot at some point in time that the insulation melted into the wire strands so I don't suspect it is any better now (lol). FWIW, I didn't have any problem getting the exhaust header & cross-over off but the stator cover was a different matter. The cover was fastened with SS screws, the sidestand side were loose and came out easy, the other side was just the opposite...those screws were a b$#ch to get out (some evidence of electrolysis) but I was able to get a tap in there and clean out the threads afterward. IMHO, the ordeal up to this point could have been a whole lot worse. Now I have figure out whose $350-$400 reg/rec & stator to buy. On another note, while I have the stator cover off I might try to do something with it...the battleship gray paint on it is bubbled & crappy lookin'. Hey Docc, thanks for posting the "Posting images using Gallery", this is my first image posting here...I used your instructions. Ok, that's all I have to report. Thanks for reading & advising! Art

Docc, In your last post you indicated that you were interested in the Euro Motoelectric response to me about the Odyssey PC545 compatibility with the EME MG-VoltRect, see below. I appreciated the quick EME response but can't say it was very helpful. FWIW, I use a Deltran Battery Tender Jr. on ALL my stuff (Odyssey, Yuasa, Everstart & Motobat) Art Hi ART, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, your battery may well work with our VoltRect. We have many customers that use these batteries with no problems. The reason we caution you is because in some cases the battery and VoltRect do not communicate well with the end result being that the either the battery or VoltRect get fried. You probably use a battery tender that is specific to your battery and will not work on the older lead-acid or AGM batteries – so it’s logical that the old charging system on the bike may not work with the modern technologically advanced batteries. Regards Norman Schwab Euro Moto Electrics 1.303.526.0901 2505 W 2nd Ave | Unit # 15 Denver, CO 80219 | USA From: guzziartSent: Thursday, April 7, 2022 1:39 PMTo: Info <info@euromotoelectrics.com>Subject: MG- VoltRect Hi, I'm in the process of diagnosing a charging system (under charging) problem on my '03 Moto Guzzi V11 Lemans. While checking price & availability for regulator/rectifiers & stators, I noticed the following in the description for your MG- Volt Rect. Could you please let me know why you don't advocate use of your product with the Odyssey battery? USE OF ODYSSEY BATTERY ( DRY CELL DESIGN) AND LITHIUM IRON BATTERY NOT RECOMMENDED OR SUPPORTED FOR WARRANTY The reason I ask is because I have had an Odyssey PC545 battery in this bike since 2006 and replaced it in 2020 with another new PC545. I have not had a battery or charging system problem until yesterday when I noticed that the bike no longer charges at idle. I guess where I'm going with this is, the OE charging system performed acceptably with the PC545 and with your MG-VoltRect I shouldn't expect the same results....possibly? The price of your MG-VoltRect is more appealing than the OE offering but there is no way that I would want to go back to the OE style battery the bike came with when it was new in '03. Thank you, Art Northeast Ohio

Hi, Thanks for the quick responses! Tom...I looked at the Roadstercycle website, looks good! Is the OEM reg/rect on our bikes Shindengens? Also, I will try to determine if a voltage drop exists in the r/r reference circuit between the batt+ & the r/r but I'm kinda thinking a volt drop in that circuit would lead to an overcharge condition??? idk. Docc...I grounded the reg/rect case back in 2020 when I replaced the old PC545 with a new PC545. At the same time, I was also doing other preventive maint stuff (stator pin connector replaced) on the bike and had guzzidiag running which is how I now know I have a problem because guzzidiag was indicating 14.1vdc@1100rpm then, I'm running off the batt at idle now. I'll check the fuses for signs of heat/poor connections & batt connections. The relay terminals are all very clean & tight. I hope to get back out to the garage tomorrow to check the stator voltage. Thanks again for your quick response & advice, Art