guzziart

I think finally resolved my timing sensor leak! It appears that two small divots on the very top of the molded rubber housing were weeping oil. So, yes, I believe the oil was migrating up through the center of the sensor. I cleaned/wiped off all the residual oil from the molded rubber housing, cable sheath & coil body. Then placed a drop of penetrating loctite on the two divots, sheath & molded rubber junction and on the business end of the sensor. I then slathered moulded rubber area & sheath junction with JB weld. Installed a new oring ....after a few hundred miles it ain't leaked, seeped, weeped yet. I hope it holds up, it looks like these are well over $100.

Hi Docc, Thanks and thanks for the help & advice! Of note, is that opening the throttle plates to get idle speed is more important than CO and the air screws. If you had to open your air screws more than a full turn to get your target idle, opening the throttle plates to 3.6º my make her even happier. Funny thing here was that I got the smoothest idle at 3.4 (tried 3.1 through 3.7)and the air screws are for sure less than one turn out. I started at one turn out and turned them in to get idle down to 1200 or so and balance at the same time. Yeah, this whole thing has been a big learning exeperience for me since I've never used Guzzidiag prior to last month! Anyway, thanks again, I'm happy and now can enjoy the bike! Art

Hi Docc, OK, I adjusted LH TB grub screw to get in the middle of the spec...I think the actual was 3.4/530mv. I then adjusted air screws in to around 1200-1250 rpm. I didn't shoot for a specific rpm but where I did leave them gave me the smothest idle. It still will not start without a little twist grip action when cold but I do not think I care at this point, it still runs great. After the adjustments, I began to play with the CO but I didn't realize any difference in the idle so left it at zero. Thanks again, Art

Hi Docc, I initially set the air screws 1 turn out but tweaked one or the other to balance at idle, adjusted the LH TB grub screw to obtain 1100 rpm or so idle, both TB sync'd at 3K rpm. I've got a shop manual but the info I found so far for idle rpm was 1100 + 50. I'll adjust to the 3.6º/540mV spec and set idle rpm at 1200. And, I'll leave the CO at zero. What are your thoughts on the 6/8 valve spec? Thank you, Art

Hi Docc, OK, for some reason I missed the fact that there was a 3.6º/540mV at idle spec....I can shoot for that. My idle rpm was based on guzzidiag. Thanks, Art

Hi G, I used the LH idle screw to get 1100rpm idle and did not use it to set tps, at idle the tps is 451mv, Throt 2.84 degrees, temp 88c. I sprayed wd40 between TB's & head to detect leaks but no change in rpm was detected. I have also rechecked the closed tps value, it is still 157mv. I could crank the LH idle screw in until I reach 540mv (I'm not opposed to to trying it) but the idle will be substantially higher. What is your idle rpm set to? Thanks, Art

Hi Docc, - Yeah, if I gradually roll on the throttle while cranking (when cold), the bike will immediately start & run and I have no complaints with its performance afterward. - I wonder if diminshed lash results in a too lean condition for cold starts?? But if you're encountering the same at cold start, I'm a little inclined to bump up the CO Trimm by +5 to see if the condition changes.....Thoughts? It was originally at -15 and is now zero. - "set your high idle cam so it just has clearance with the linkage when off" Confirmed! OK, so I'm grasping at straws here but has anyone experienced injector issues...carboned up, leaking, etc.? If so, does additives like Seafoam, etc. seem to cure anything? Art

Hi BS, Confirmed that the high rpm cam is not inadvertantly backing off. Apparently there is plenty of friction up at the handlebar choke lever to overcome spring tension at the cam. Art

Hi G, Sync rod disconnected, confirmed clearance between throt plate linkage & fast idle cam, cleaned carbon from TB's that effected full closure, set tps using break out harness & VOM. Art

Hi All, I have a '03 V11 Lemans that I perceive to have a cold start issue. The process requires more than "choke" on and hit the starter button (cranks fine)....the bike will try to start/run but quickly stalls, usually the 3rd-4th attempt the bike will start and remain running. In order to get the bike started on the 1st cold start attempt requires "choke" & that I twist the throttle during cranking. Do you have to do the same with your V11's?? I thought this cold start issue would resolve itself after performing the following but the condition still exists: Head retorque, valve clearance adjustment (0.004/0,006"), new plug wires, caps & plugs, new battery, TPS reset (157mv), TB sync (idle warm approx 1170 rpm), set CO to zero (was -15), new air filter, fuel filter & lines, capped off TB ports from fuel canister, checked for intake leaks, oil & air temp sensors appear to be working (oil is at ambient air temp until engine warms and then rises accordingly). The bike has stock headers & crossover but M4 mufflers. Aside from my cold start issue, this bike runs great. I have not tried playing with different CO settings....maybe I should???!!! I realize that this bike does not have the most sophisticated FI out there but thought that I should be able to high cam the throttle, hit the start button and have it roar to life. Anyway, thanks for reading, your thoughts, comments, suggestions & experiences are greatly appreciated. Art .

Geez, I forgot it was on the TO checklist...don't get old, it sucks. Thank you! Art

Hey Docc, I've got a timing sensor leak. I pulled the sensor, it had plenty of brown goo on it and no Oring. It doesn't appear that the leak is coming up through the middle of the sensor and out through the wiring. Anyway, do you still recommend a #112 Viton Oring to seal the sensor? Thanks, Art

Yep! The PO installed it.

Hi GStallons, Mine are (easy peazy touch up) black. Art

Yep, 16".

Chuck....Yes, especially when it is the MG world! Lucky Phil...Thanks for the Euro Moto addy! I forgot about them, several years ago I bought a valeo starter from them for another bike. Anyway, I placed an order for the fuel hoses, their product is overall less expensive and I won't have to worry about bend radiuses. Gstallons... I've got an "87SE too! Have a good one & stay healthy, Art

Hi Chuck, Goodennuff! Thanks, Art

Hi All, On my '03 V11 Lemans, I'm replacing the in-tank fuel pump gasket (leaks), hoses & fuel filter. Any advice/thoughts are appreciated. 1. Is there a torque value for the pump to tank base gasket screws? 2. It is my understanding that the oem internal tank hoses are not available...they appear to be a flexible plastic composition . I am looking to replace these lines with an SAE30R10 rubber hose that is rated fuel submersible. 3. Fuel injection hose clamps for in-tank use: Crimp or screw & nut type? Thanks, Art

Hi, Well, I got off easy with my burned wiring. I began cutting open the wire harness from the ECU and as luck would have it, only the one length of wire that runs from the ECU to batt neg was burnt...about an 18" length. So, I replaced the multi wire ring termiinal at batt neg, ran a fresh wire to the ECU ground with a new ring terminal and tied the timing sensor ground shield into it too. Marty, I think you suggested a piece of inner tube to aid in shielding the corner of the ECU closest to the batt + terminal, I did that too. I didn't realize something you said earlier until I began writing this just now. After I repaired the wiring, put the battery back in, I noticed the spanner laying next the the tool pouch so, I shoved it underneath the tool pouch rubber band to better secure it. You mentioned the possibilty of the spanner bouncing around and contacting the batt+ and shorting against the ECU or other ground in that neighborhood. In retrospect, that might be what happened....damned spanner! Docc, I rechecked all the grounds and added a ground to the VR housing to the timing chest. Thank you for your help & insight. Stay well! Art I

Docc....Deoxit spray or tube??? Thanks, Art

Hi, Thanks for the comments! Docc: I'll be sure to double check all the ground connections. And, I'll ground the regulator case, thanks, I was wondering about that. I ohmed out the green ground leads from the VR to the case and got no continuity but didn't reverse the leads, forgot we're dealing with diodes, reverse polarity, etc. FWIW, my owners manual schematic indicates a vr housing ground while the schematic from the shop manual does not indicate the vr housing as being grounded...confusing but I'll ground it. MartyNZ: I think your right although I don't see any evidence of arcing at the ECU housing. Now I am trying to determine how far into the harness the damage goes. I hope it is confined to the foot or so of wire from the ecu to the batt neg. At this point, I guess I'll pull the bag mounts & tail section and begin cutting the harness open to assess damage. LR: I'll be sure to take a look underneath the fuse block asm. I pulled all the fuses, they were all clean and showed no sign of being stressed. Well, out to the garage I go, Thank you! Art

Stewgnu & Docc, Thanks for the quick response! The ground connections at the battery were poor, the main ground point at the GB was clean but loose (imo). Based on the main ground being loose, I'm surprised I don't have more wire damage. However, I'm trying to understand why the ground wire at the ECU burned. How did high current flow from the ECU housing (that is mounted on electrically insolated vibration dampeners) back to the battery negative terminal? None of the other ground wiring on the 2 multi wire ring terminals at battery negative terminal are burned, only the one wire that goes to the ECU housing is burned. I guess that is why I think there was a dead short from the batt+ to the ECU housing at some point in time, possibly a failed jump start attempt. I'm trying to determine if this over current damage is limited to this particular section of wire from batt neg. to ECU housing ground or more wide spread like in your photo of burned wiring at the TB. Thanks Again, Art

Hi, I see your interesting discussion on the under seat electrical and felt compelled to ask a few questions. I have an 03 V11 LeMans that I'm trying get roadworthy by performing needed routine maintenance tasks... everything works & it runs just fine. However, after spending some time around the battery... cleaning connections, I noticed one of the 14ga. ground wires (one of several crimped to a ring terminal) had some of the insulation burned off of it. The wire is burned throughout the harness... I suspect, it is part of the circuit that grounds the ECU housing (also off of that same wire is the cam timing sensor shielding ground). Without removing the tail section and stripping the wire harness to determine where else this one wire goes, I am hoping that someone here might have some insight about this circuit. I think at some point a dead short occured between battery+ to the ECU housing and possibly resulting in this ground wire getting cooked. Although there is no evidence (burned ECU housing, etc.), I am having trouble determining how else this wire could have burned. Thoughts? If one of you guys knows whether the ECU ground wire is connected to anything other than the timing sensor shield at the ECU & multi wire ring terminal at battery negative, I would greatly appreciate hearing from you. I've been lurking on your forum for several weeks now and the information that I have found here has been a big help. Sorry I hijacked your discussion. Thanks for reading, Art