guzziart

Yeah, been there done that. Those pin connectors in the background were blued/cooked on mine. If you've checked stator output and output is good and you are able to get new stator terminals & plug that'll save you a couple dollars. My stator/regulator wiring had got hot enough to melt the insulation into the wire strands of the stator so, I replaced the stator too.

Hey, Call Curtis...that always yields the best results for me. Art

That's nothin', the retaining screw at that location was so long on mine it was wearing into the tank!

Another stupid question.....What is the ETS? Art

Yeah, I've had zero luck with H4 style stuff and have become very proficient at removing the Lemans fairing as a result.

Hey LR, I've got an '03 Lemans......what is the "bellhousing brace"? Thanks, Art

What did you do to your V11 today?...... I installed a new timing sensor oring, changed engine oil, brake & clutch fluid, moved it off the lift and went for a 50 mile ride. Today was a beautiful summer Saturday in Northeast Ohio.

I'll let y'all know the next time I change the r. drive oil on my '72 Eldo....it has a removable sump, a good place for 20cc's of liquid moly to coagulate. 8/29/23 Update: I removed the sump from the Eldo to change the oil. I didn't see clumping but it appears that the heavier liquid moly (than 80w-90 gear oil) settles out to the lowest point when static.

FWIW, I'm running name brand 80w-90 gear oil and Kalgard moly something or other additive I bought years ago for my MG's and have not enocountered a rear drive problem. That being said....... The rear drive issue I had a few years ago ( and complained about it here) was a result of the original owner of my Lemans replacing the r. drive with a used unit because the original r. drive began to leak and rather than fix it, he replaced it. When I got the bike I decided I wanted the original r. drive back in the bike and went through the effort to get it oil tight and reinstalled into the bike. Yeah, I got a good "spare" rear drive now. Does anyone need one?? It has black wrinkle finish paint on it whereas my original is black satin. Art

The Bacon McDoubles are pretty good imho

I wish MG would have stuck with the steel reflector for the Lemans. Or at least the bezel set up as the retaining device for the reflector.

One of the inexpensive clones I bought had a base that I felt was too thick to install. As a result of the thicker base, the bulb retaining springs exerted more pressure on the two retaining tabs on the reflector. I was concerned that the additional tension would break the plastic reflector tabs so I didn't install the bulb but instead bought another inexpensive bulb having a thin flat stamped steel base like a conventional H4. Anyway, the bulb only lasted a few months, if that and I've ordered another inexpensive LED H4 to "try". And, while I have the fairing off for inexpensive LED bulb research purposes I'm gonna have another go at my seeper/leaker timing sensor.

One of the inexpensive clones I bought had a base that I felt was too thick to install. As a result of the thicker base, the bulb retaining springs exerted more pressure on the two retaining tabs on the reflector. I was concerned that the additional tension would break the plastic reflector tabs so I didn't install the bulb but instead bought another inexpensive bulb having a thin flat stamped steel base like a conventional H4. Anyway, the bulb only lasted a few months, if that and I've ordered another inexpensive LED H4 to "try".

Hi FG, No the amazon bezel won't work, unfortunately but thanks for looking. The LED pilot bulb is a sylvania #194. I got it at Walmart, was about $7 and was on a hook in the automotive bulb display area. Don't forget to read the instructions....if it doesn't work initially, remove it, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall...polarity sensitive. Art

Today, I'm doing more headlight work. I attempted to replace the original equipment H4 headlight bulb with an LED H4, the inexpensive LED H4 lasted 2-3 months. My 2nd attempt to move to an LED involved buying a 7" round "Jeep" style LED headlight assembly. Unfortunately I now discovered that the 7" Jeep thing will not install. Apparently, the OEM headlight/reflector assembly have the tabs molded into it that allows the assembly to be secured into the HDL bucket, a tab on top that fits into HDL bucket & a tab on the bottom that contains a speed nut for a securement screw, in other words the OEM assembly is NOT secured into the bucket by the headlight bezel/trim ring. The trim ring "snaps" onto the headlight/reflector assembly. So, I have no easy way to install the Jeep thing unless I can somehow find a trim ring that will fit onto the Jeep HDL, has a tab that fits the HDL bucket on top and a tab on the bottom to allow a screw securement. Oh well, live and learn. At this point I'm inclined to try another budget H4 LED, I've become very good at fairing r & r. Plus, I installed an LED pilot bulb so I'm not completely dark in front and it is brighter than I thought it would be. FWIW, I don't ride at night but would like to be more conspicuous during daytime riding. .

Probably the easiest way to look for excessive crankcase pressure is to loosen the dipstick with engine running.....I guess.

Yeah, this thing is really kicking my butt!! I don't know what I'm missing. I regret tossing out the oem sensor without measuring the thickness of the baseplate maybe it was more substantial (thicker) than the aftermarket piece I bought. Or maybe the O.D. of the sensor is slightly larger than the original. I'll certainly give it a try again and more closely scrutinize what I'm doing. I have a baggie of 112's from Mcmaster Carr so, no shortage of orings. I've installed crank seals, input/output shaft seals, head & base gaskets, crankcase gaskets, valve cover gaskets, rear drive seals& gaskets, etc.....no leaks!! This simple oring sensor seal is driving me nuts! Well, that and the right fork leak on my Eldo but I'll whine & complain about that to the Loop Frame Group. Thanks for listening. Art

Hi Vlad, I'm suprised the bike would run with the sensor contacting the timing gear. The new sensor (with new oring) I installed required shimming so that there was sufficient clearance between sensor & gear. I will probably pull it apart again sometime this Fall to figure out what I missed that results in the new sensor leaking. This latest leak is not from the sensor itself as in the past but from the baseplate/oring area. The original leaked from two divots at the very top of the molded portion of the sensor, I epoxyed those and the leak stopped. At short time later, the sensor began leaking from the area where the molded sensor housing meets the cable casing so I epoxyed that area too and the leak stopped for about a year then began leaking again. This Spring I replaced the sensor & oring because I got tired of epoxying and chasing a leak. The new oring I used was from one of our popular Guzzi aftermarket suppliers and I wonder if the oring I received is marginal, maybe I will try an getting a "genuine" Guzzi oring. Docc has uses a #112 oring on his bike but I had no success in seating a 112 on mine without distorting the sensor base plate & shims. From what I recall, the sensor screw holes are not drilled all the way through into the timing housing chamber which leads me to think I have an oring sealing problem. Oh well, I hope your issues are now resolved. Art