guzziart
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Everything posted by guzziart
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Does anyone out there know of catastrophic MG engine failures as a result of using lower than OEM specified octane fuels? I follow OEM recommended specs (sae, api, jaso,etc) for oil but for some reason I have ignorantly departed from that logic for fuel. I hope my quest for thriftiness doesn't bite me.
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Well, after reading some of your responses maybe I should reconsider running a couple tanks of "premium" to confirm (in my mind) that there is definitely a difference in performance....short of putting bike on dyno. My v11 doesn't have lambda sensors so there's no way the ecu would adjust for out of range combustion, detonation, preignition, etc. Kevin_T said Just because you can't detonation doesn't it's not there. Might take microscope to bits of aluminum on your spark plug. Yeah, maybe I'll pull the plugs & shove the borescope in there & take a look. I have a clue what microscopic bits look like based on my experience with my '72 eldo flaking cylinders. The fine metal shavings were on the plugs & in pooled oil on the top of the heads under the valve covers....it was very obvious, no fancy tools needed to detect that issue.
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I don't notice any difference in running 87 up to 93 so I opt for the less expensive 87 stuff. However, in the last year or so "Circle K" brand offers 90 octane non-ethynol, I notice a huge difference in starting/running performance with the non-eth stuff...same with my mower, string trimmer, chain saw, atv, generator, etc., I like it. Prior to last year, non-eth was not readily availabile here in Northeast, Ohio, the fuel was all up to 10% ethynol. Art
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FWIW..... https://www.mcmaster.com/90364A101
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Hi Phil, Your steel axle appears like the wheel bearing had spun on it....Is that normal? My rear axle looks like that, I can feel a slight steps/ridges on mine. I attribute the wear to the misplacement of the large washer that normally goes between the rear drive and swing arm being improperly placed between the wheel external drive splines & rear drive internal drive splines. Yep, you read that right. I'm just glad I caught it before it ruined the any splines since the washer only allowed partial spline engagement. Anyway, back to the "stepped" axle....to me, it obviously looks worn due to a bearing spin. I'd like to replace the axle if I come across a good used one but haven't been successful at that yet. Maybe i should get off my wallet and buy new, if available??!! Or if you're satisfied with your engineering and make a run of axles please place me on your list of potential buyers. Thoughts? Oh, my wheel bearings feel ok and I couldn't detect any unusual wear with the bearing i.d. Art PS - Nice job on the Ti axle!
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Hi LP, What's up with the axle pics? I see the "newer" looking one weighs less??!! The axle that appears like the wheel bearing had spun on it....Is that normal? My rear axle looks like that, I can feel a slight steps/ridges on mine. I attribute the wear to the misplacement of the large washer that normally goes between the rear drive and swing arm being improperly place between the wheel external drive splines & rear drive internal drive splines. Yep, you read that right. I'm just glad I caught it befor eit ruined the any splines since the washer only allowed partial spline engagement. Anyway, back to the "stepped" axle....to me, it obviously looks worn due to a bearing spin. I'd like to replace the axle if I come across a good used one but haven't been successful at that yet. Maybe i should get off my wallet and buy new, if available??!! Thoughts? Oh, my wheel bearings feel ok and I couldn't detect any unusual wear with the bearing i.d. Art
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My first brand X LED bulb had a base that was too thick and I was concerned that the aditional thickness would over stress the bulb retaining spring and subsequently break the plastic tab from the plaestic headlamp bucket. Plus, the plug end of the bulb was 8mm - 10mm too long and created an interference problem (contacted connector in the back of the headlight bucket). The 2nd brand X LED bulb fit well, it has thin metal base like a regular H4 bulb and doesn't stress the retaining spring clip and the base portion of the bulb is dimensionally the same length as a regular H4 too. However, longevity of the brand X is very poor imo...a few months. At this point I'd really like to try a 7" LED assembly but not sure if the retaining ring would work to hold it in place. So, I've got that to look into and try to seal the timing sensor oil leak (again, still).
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FWIW.... https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_ordering.html Art PS - If a problem exists with ign., clutch, start button switches,wiring, etc., adding a high current relay will not solve an intermittent cranking issue. I think if I had an intermittent cranking issue I'd begin looking for weak areas ....switches! These bikes are 20+ yeas old, things go bad from sitting or age & use.
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Hi All, Ok, another stupid question! What was the Gearbox Recall? I'll just add that to the V11 to do or check list. Thanks, Art
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Hey PJPR01, So, did you go any further with your headlamp situation? My super cheap, brand X, led bulb failed after a couple months, I presently have no operable headlamp but the (sylvania) led pilot works great. Anyway, I was wondering if one of those 7" round led lamp assemblies will fit the lemans without having to do mods to the bucket or retaining bezel. Thanks, Art
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I've got enough headaches & things to read, watch & do. I'll stick to whatever the least expensive oil I can find that meets the vehicle manufacturers spec. I've been riding for over 50 years and several hundred thousand miles, in that time, like many of you and have never had oil related engine problems. I guess I've been lucky...did I just put the maloik on myself??!! Art
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Update: Timing sensor still leaks. New sensor, new oem style oring & Permatex Motoseal gasket maker (looks like hondabond/yamabond stuff) and leaking at lower screw. Before with the old sensor my leaks were coming from the top of the old sensor moulded housing & cable casing......now with new parts, it leaks at the lower screw. Frustrating. Any sealing ideas or other things to look at in that area? Cyl. base gasket, presure sensor, oil feed lines & timing cover are all dry. Art
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Headlamp LED insert for V11 Sport - sale cancelled
guzziart replied to Rolf Halvorsen's topic in Personal Ads
Hi Rolf, A 7" round headlight will fit the Sport?? Any idea if I could fit one of these into a '03 Lemans? I realize that I'd no longer have a pilot light. Without going out to the garage, pulling the fairing & headlamp assembly, I don't recall if the trim ring that holds the headlight into the bucket separates from the headlamp. If so, I'd like to try a one of those 7" sealed assemblies. Or has anyone else here tried one of these sealed LEDs in their Sport or Lemans? I put one in my '72 Eldo and it works great as of last night....went to a local cruise-in and got caught riding home at sunset. Thanks, Art 8/11/23 update: I bought one of those 7" round LED headlights for my Eldo several months ago and it works fine. So, I recently bought one for the Lemans. However, the bezel & bucket on my Lemans will NOT accomodate a 7' round. The oem reflector assembly hooks into the bucket top, a sheet metal screw & tin nut retain it. The bezel clips onto the reflector. This is contrary to my thought that the bezel is utlized to retain the reflector in the bucket....like on most cars & bikes. Oh well. -
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I bought a sylvania or wagner LED pilot light for the Lemans, the instructions indicated that if it doesn't work reinstall it the other way it would fit into the socket ( for correct polarity purposes).
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Nice July 4th day in Northeast Ohio for a ride out to Eddie's Grill in Geneva On The Lake, Ohio on the Lemans.
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From the album: '03 V11 Lemans
Nice July 4th day in Northeast Ohio for a ride out to Eddie's Grill in Geneva On The Lake, Ohio on the Lemans. -
"High Current" Starter Relay, Base & Harness
guzziart commented on guzziart's gallery image in Members Gallery
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From the album: '03 V11 Lemans
I added the HC Starter Relay Harness to eliminate passing high inrush current to starter solenoid through the ignition switch based on some comments I read in the forum. My own current draw tests appeared to be very low/minimal. However, should the starter solenoid become marginal, the higher draw of the solenoid could damage the ignition switch...imho. I bought the HC Starter relay, base, fuse and harness from Greg Bender at This Old Tractor. It is s nice easy install..the relay base slides onto the existing starter relay base, Red to Batt+, Black to Batt-, spade connctors are routed to starter - Female spade to starter, Male spade to exiting starter solenoid feed wire. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_ordering.html -
Yeah, my Lemans speedo indicates 70mph while the Garmin is 64-66mph. It doesnt bother me. However, I put a Speed Hut "Speedo Healer" on my Wing because speedo error was an irritant when leading group rides. The speedo healer allowed me electronically recalibrate the speedo so it is accurate at 70mph.
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The carbon fiber thing looks great imo! With mine, I took all the paint off, cleaned it up, primed it and painted it with rattle can VHT Wheel Paint - Ford Argent Silver from the local auto parts store. I'm satisfied with it so far.
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When i bought my Lemans (in 2015, used) I removed the rear wheel to perfom a bunch of routine maintenance stuff like clutch fluid replacement, inspect & lube drive shaft & drive splines, ujoints, wheel bearings, etc. Well, much to my surprise, I found that large washer inside of the gearbox drive splines. Although the washer only allowed about half spline engagement, no damage occurred to either gearbox or wheel drive splines. I suspect that whomever did the rear tire change had no Idea where the large washer went so they tucked it in between the wheel & gearbox even though the i.d of the washer was drastically larger than the o.d of the axle. Yeah, I'm glad I took time to do the needful, it would have made me sick if the drive splines on either the wheel or gearbox had been damaged.