guzziart

Hi All, Ok, I'm late to the relay party. Last May I replaced my oem Omrons with CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R ($2.50/ea). Now, the general concensus is the Picker PC782-1C-12S-R-X are the relays to have as oem Omrom replacements. Am I understanding this correctly? If so, I'll go buy a batch before I get into more trouble. As always, thanks for the help & advice, Art

I tried to install a metal core cam chain cover gasket but the gasket doesn't fit very well so back to the drawing board.

Maybe the "How to" section may help. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20492-fork-seal-clip-removal-how/ Art

Hi Audiomick, The 10mm is 8.8, the 12mm is unreadable. I don't recall seeing any coarse 1.75 pitch bolts that were 10.9 or higher in the charts I was looking at or able to find. So, I'm assuming the 12mm x 1.75 is an 8.8. On another note, the 96-99 1100 sport has a very similar setup as the Lemans (subframe & spine) but the fastening hardware has different part numbers. Apparently, another member published torques that were found in his shop manual. The torque for the "engine to subframe and subframe to frame " he listed as 57lb.ft. (78nm). Maybe the Sport has 12mm x 1.5 or 1.25, etc. and in all 6 positions in the subframe. However even if they are all 12mm socket head screws, why would the torque value be same? Four of the screws go into the steel spine, two of the screws go into the aluminum cam chain cover. Art

Al, Well, the steel subframe socket head screws that go into the steel spine frame are 10mm x 1.5 and have a "standard torque value" of 33-37 lb.ft. (45-50nm) according to the V11 Lemans shop manual B4,B12. The two 12mm x 1.75 steel socket head screws that fasten through the subframe and into the aluminum cam chain cover torque value was not in the shop manual, that I could find. According to a publication by Dodgeram/Allpar forum and Kohler Service Manual cv17-750, General Torque Values indicates the torque to be 41-45 lb.ft (56-61nm). So, unless someone chimes in to correct me, those are the values I'm going with. Art

Ok, I'm obviosly not an expert at posting pics, these look huge. The the tank has been raised slightly to allow access to subframe bolts...rear bolts are out and frame has been pivotted down to provde clearance to facilitate cam chain cover removal. The cam chain cover original gasket. It was seeping at the tan colored spot on the right a most halfway, down. The gasket was easily remioved, it was brittle and no gasket sealer was evident. I'm going back on with one of those "metal core" gaskets.

Hi Al, I'm hoping someone chimes in before i have to figure it out in which case I'll post what I used. I lucked out in that I only had to remove the aft two subframe bolts, loosen the frt two and tilt the frame forward to provide clearance to get the CCC off. I thought I'd have to take the tank off which was going to be a problem because I don't think I could bleed off fuel pressure without running the engine....kinda tough without oil cooler & loose ccc. I loosened the tank and was able to raise it enough to access subframe bolts.

Ok, I answered my own questions... There is a sub-frame on the Lemans that the regulator, cooler & horns mount to that bolts to the spine, the cam chain cover will not clear it, So, now I'm struggling with the fuel tank quick disconnects, get the tank off, loosen/remove sub-frame to facilitate cam chain cover removal. Funny, the last time I disconnected the tank fittings it was easy...not so easy now.

Hi All, Well, maybe I shoulda put some of this in the "What did you do to your v11 today"..... I began the task of timing cover gasket replacement. I got the regulator, stator, rotor, cooler, horns, header pipes, s. stand and front fairing off. And, supported engine, loosened front engine mount bolts and I figured I'd check back here before I go further. The cam cover clearance between engine and frame is close but I see where kiwi roy still has his pipes on so I guess as long as I support the engine, I can remove the 2 front engine mount bolts, remove the cam cover bolts and manipulate the cover off??!! Or, basically the timing cover can be removed without moving the engine within the frame??!! Also, can the sleeve that the crank seal rides on slid off while the seal is installed in the cam cover? I can move the sleeve slightly back and forth but it doesn't seem to want to slid off without some force. I figured I'd ask before I force something I shouldn't. Thanks, Art

Tank Story.... I bought my '03 Lemans from the original owner(a friend of mine) in '15. Along with the bike came some "extra " parts. Among the extra parts that he finally gave me in 2018 was the original fuel tank. Apparently the original tank had been replaced under warranty because it got "sucked' and was irrepairably damaged. The dealer that did the warranty work let my friend keep the tank because Guzzi didn't want it so my friend stuck up in his attic. Fast forward 13 years, when my friend got around to giving the tank to me the damage was no longer visible or obvious. Crazy, eh??!!

I added headlight relays to both my '87 Lemans & '03 Lemans primarily to reduce voltage drop and improve hbar switch longevity. More recently I added H4 LED's to those bikes to reduce charging system load and improve daytime conspicuity. I'm reluctant to ride before sunrise or after sunset anymore but was caught once last Fall after sunset on the '87 with the new LED H4 and was please with the performance. Although I have no idea of how long the bulb will last ...amazon $17. So, I guess we'll see.

Were/are all the Roper plates engraved? ....just curious, it's a nice touch! I have one in my Lemans that was installed by the original owner, I haven't ever taken a close look at it.

My 2¢ ... In the past I've used contact cement/trim adhesive with success but more recently I did the McMaster-Carr thing (as Doc mentioned) for my Eldo dash. Ty-raps sounds good for redundancy.

Hi All. Hey Deadpen.... What is the upper gearbox bracket about? I don't know if I have one or need one??!! '03 v11 Lemans here. Hey activpop.... I found the driveshaft on my v11 Lemans to be out of phase too, someone had neglected to phase it with factory alignment marks that were properly marked. And, the same character that fuzzed up shaft alignment probably was the one who installed the large i.d. washer that normally resides between the rear drive & swing arm installed it between the wheel drive splines and rear drive drive splines. I'm glad I realized what was going on there because it resulted in only half of the wheel splines engaging into the gearbox splines. Crazy, eh??!! Art

WOW, I like it! I put a brand X ($15 ebay) style h4 led in my V11 Lemans last Fall. It fit fine, base was thin metal like the oe h4 and dimensionally (lengthwise) was the same, I encountered no clearance issues. However, after I installed it I realized it looked a little crappy. The light was bright white (nice) but the pilot light was the old incandescent (kinda yellowish) and my lens appeared a little hazy (from age??!!). So, if this Cree brand actually fits/works I think I'd be game to spending the money for one. It would resolve the haze & pilot bulb issue. And, imho, Cree make a quality product, 5 year warranty is nice too. FWIW, Walmart sells Sylvania 194 LED wedge bulbs for about $6. Also, I picked up another 0.2 to 0.3vdc to overall charging system voltage at idle by going to an led headlight bulb. I should probably swap out the S & T bulb with an led too. On another note, I installed a plug & play led sealed beam into my '72 Eldo, has no retro appearance but I can certainly be seen, I'm pleased with it. It was marketed on ebay for Jeeps & motorcycles, $42. Art

Yeah, swing arm spools would be great but don't know if it would be any easier for me than the "factory" style contraption that has me sweating every time I use it. My forks are up into the clamps about 8mm more than stock because of the hbar risers, I wonder if that is why it is a chore lifting up onto the stand??!! To aid in lifting my Lemans (and center stand bikes) I toss a 1"x6" under the rear tire, it helps. Plus the factory style stand allows a greater multitude of rear end tasks to be performed if needed vs. spools...imho Anyway, the headlift thing looks too for tire & fork oil changes. It won't work on '03 lemans, lower fork clamp is covered...some sort of air dam and not easily removable, brake line runs through it. Art

And, then there's the recommended "updates" ...indestructible shift spring, etc.

Chuck, Get well soon! Art

Yeah, I have the same question! Also, the forks on my '03 Lemans are 2xR and starter cover bracket is held on with hose clamps. Art