guzziart

Me too....bracing, no tank pad, internal pump & plastic frame shroud. No trim on tank from bolt hole up to top unless you mean the black stripe, about 4" wide, from the center forwardmost top of tank to the filler cap and bubbles up with 10% ethynol use. Thanks for the comment on bearings & seals. Generally, I assume if I order a part listed in the illustrated parts breakdown and receive that item, it is correct for the application.

Hi All, Fwiw.....

IDK, maybe wingtip salute??!! On another note, the shifter mod is nice, I like it. My Lemans now shifts like my son-in-laws cbr1000rr.

Awesome, Thanks Scud! Art

Hey Scud, Since my last post, I got the Mojolever and have had no problems changing tires on the nomar, I've done 7 so far. Also, I lightly sanded the nomar center post and no longer get flaking wrinkle paint sloughing off of it but still like your ground rod recommendation to replace that post, it is on my "to do" list. Art

Thanks Doc! I plan on taking a closer look at the Lemans after I start & finish my eldo that has a right fork leak, I'll be taking this thing apart for the 4th time now...I almost think the lower leg may have an undetected crack thus far. And, after I remove the broken generator bracket mounting stud from the top of the block. Even though I don't plan to tackle the Lemans for a while yet I wanted some idea of the scope of work I have to look forward to. Art

Hi All, So, I think I have a timing chest cover to block leak on my '03 V11 Lemans. The leak appears to be coming from the area closest to 1st cover bolt down (on rightside) from the very top two cover bolts. The bolt I'm referring took about an eighth turn to snug up but the leak/seep still exists but perhaps it's residual although I did clean up the area before I put another 50 miles on. I did read the suggestion herein to loosen & re-torque all the cover bolts and use foot powder for leak detection which makes sense to me. I plan on digging into this more when time permits but wanted to ask a couple questions to satisfy my curiousity. - Can the timing cover be removed in-bike without removing the engine if I block/support the engine? - Do you Advocate metal core replacement gaskets like GU05001230 https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=170_174&products_id=5044 ? - Gasket sealer recommendations? Thank you, Art GU05001230

Hi LaGrasta, Hey, there is another thread here somewhere that discusses swapping the throttle high cam spring with the seat lock spring in the seat tail section. The stiffer of the two springs belongs to the seat lock release, the lesser of the two goes on the high cam return. My understanding is MG goofed and installed the springs in the wrong locations.

Stewgnu, Thanks for the info...I'll be sure to add this to the spring replacement task list when I do mine to minimize my number of redos. Art

Hi, OK, I'm late to the party but after reading up to this point has me wondering about the fuel quality. When I've had starting issues with my carb bikes I'll check for fuel (fresh & flowing), fire (good spark) & compression ( if it gets that far). My V11 LeMans has the factory program in it as far as I know, it has always required high cam throttle engagement (aka choke) and a slight throttle roll during cold start cranking it then will roar to life otherwise it will attempt to start but stall. So, that's my 2¢ worth. Hope you're able to get your bikes up & running without too much more heartburn. Art

I'll check the balance but I don't have driveability issues like when I got the bike and the TB's were way out of sync. Anyway, give me a few days. Update: OK, I couldn't wait, I ran out to the garage, put the SyncPro on the Lemans, it's all good! TB's are balanced at idle and fluid columns rise in sync as throttled up (to 4k rpm).

FWIW. I removed the evap can T-hoses and capped the manifold ports with high temp vacuum caps bought from McMaster-Carr. The problem with the caps is that every so often a cap would blow off during cold start cranking. To prevent the cap from blowing off I cinched the outside diameter of the cap with small gauge ss lock wire. Then over time I noticed the high temp caps discoloring from heat, I eventually removed the caps, manifold nipples and replaced nipples with screws & fiber sealing washers....it's been fine since.

Hey Doc & Tom, Thanks for the feedback! I'll add the VCm3 to my V11 to do list. Art

So, I see the latest posts on the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod and thought I'd chime in. After I removed the lowered foot peg set-up installed by the PO of my Lemans, I installed the Lucky Phil/Chuck Extender Mod. I have no regrets, like the short throw and think it has a more natural feel or at least what I am used to on a modern day motorcycle. Thanks for coming up with this mod and making it readily available to the rest of us. Art PS - One of these days I still have to do the shift spring thing before I lose track of the replacement.

Hi Doc, Tomchri, So, what is the general consensus....Auxito or Vintage Car? Yeah, the Auxito price is more attractive. My Lemans has the plastic bucket. Also, whenever I have to do any work behind the fairing, I remove it (pull mirrors, unplug signals & remove 6 or so bolts). Thanks, Art

I agree... However, i just ran out to the garage, grabbed the torque wrench and have concluded that I did torque those bolts to 39nm back in February. Going to ride now!

Yeah, I've got the factory manual sect. B, p. 12 and familiar with step torquing but really thought I had a spec for those particular bolts. MG goes through the effort of putting an fancy diagram in sect O, p.8 & 9 but no bolt torques. The 1100i Sport manual indicates torque to 39nm for the (8mm, GU98832430) bolt which is the same bolt used on the V11 Lemans. I think 39nm is kind of high but what do I know.